Installing TechnicPnP Active Sound removal harness

GrayM235 · 09-22-2016, 09:09 PM

He got back to me, thinks it should have the corrected wiring but offered to take it back for inspection and ship another at his cost. Great support

When I get a chance to open the trunk/trim back up, I can take a closer look and splice if needed I suppose.

simoneves · 09-27-2016, 01:47 PM

I bought one of these harnesses (plus a Bimmertech amp) back in February, but have shamefully failed to find the time to install any of it yet. I checked my harness, and it looked the same as in the most recent pictures(by mdputnam ) so I swapped the pins (white wire now next to red wire) which took all of 30 seconds once I'd found my smallest screwdriver. If I wasn't supposed to be working-from-home I'd almost be inspired enough to go out and install the whole shebang now. But it must wait. Again.

Grentz · 09-27-2016, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simoneves

I bought one of these harnesses (plus a Bimmertech amp) back in February, but have shamefully failed to find the time to install any of it yet. I checked my harness, and it looked the same as in the most recent pictures(by mdputnam ) so I swapped the pins (white wire now next to red wire) which took all of 30 seconds once I'd found my smallest screwdriver. If I wasn't supposed to be working-from-home I'd almost be inspired enough to go out and install the whole shebang now. But it must wait. Again.

Its actually a pretty quick install. Biggest pain is dealing with the back trunk seal IMO, and that is more just annoying.

Prodigy. · 09-28-2016, 12:29 AM

Anyone have an email address to contact TechninPnp directly? sent a query weeks ago via their website but never got a reply.

simoneves · 09-28-2016, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prodigy.

Anyone have an email address to contact TechninPnp directly? sent a query weeks ago via their website but never got a reply.

PM'd

simoneves · 09-28-2016, 12:57 PM

I decided to finally have a go at installing my amp and harness. I followed these instructions, and it was easy, but for the life of me I can't see how to remove the plastic plate around the trunk latch. This bit...

I have removed the four push clips, and there doesn't seem to be anything else holding it down. There are two big Torx bolts under two shaped clip-on panels on the plate either side of the trunk latch hole, but I'm pretty sure they're just what's holding the latch to the body.

Do you have to actually pull the rubber seal all the way off? I can fold it back enough to get the side of the trunk liner out, and enough to see that the top edge of the plastic plate is clear, but the plate still won't come out.

Is there some other clip mechanism holding it to the body that I just have to pull it away from? I didn't want to pull any harder in case I broke it, and I didn't want to pull the rubber all the way off if I didn't have to, in case it didn't go back on properly (it seems to be still attached in the pics).

simoneves · 09-28-2016, 02:40 PM

Never mind. I managed to fold back (or rather, under) enough of the rubber seal that goes across the top of the plate, to allow me to pull it off. I didn't try to pull the rubber seal all the way off, as it seems very tightly bound to the metalwork. The two downward-facing pegs on the plate (which presumably was what was holding on) are a little bent, but I think they'll survive. That side of the trunk liner then just lifts right out, for full access. Of course, the test will be putting it all back together, but at least it's drivable without if that has to wait.

Zooks527 · 09-28-2016, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simoneves

Never mind. I managed to fold back (or rather, under) enough of the rubber seal that goes across the top of the plate, to allow me to pull it off. I didn't try to pull the rubber seal all the way off, as it seems very tightly bound to the metalwork. The two downward-facing pegs on the plate (which presumably was what was holding on) are a little bent, but I think they'll survive. That side of the trunk liner then just lifts right out, for full access. Of course, the test will be putting it all back together, but at least it's drivable without if that has to wait.

In my case, I just pulled the seal off. I will confess to thinking that if it didn't want go back on, the car was still under warranty and I could try to convince the service writer that it wasn't attached correctly to start with.

simoneves · 09-28-2016, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooks527

In my case, I just pulled the seal off. I will confess to thinking that if it didn't want go back on, the car was still under warranty and I could try to convince the service writer that it wasn't attached correctly to start with.

I may yet have to do that to get the damn thing back in, of course.

Meanwhile, I have amp install problems, which I might PM you about, as I'd prefer to give Bimmertech a chance to respond before I go raging here.

Prodigy. · 09-28-2016, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simoneves

PM'd

Received.

Thank you.

Zooks527 · 09-28-2016, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simoneves

I may yet have to do that to get the damn thing back in, of course.

I found it to be a pain to get back on, but it does work if you go slowly. On mine, there seems to always be a mild "hump" right in the center of the seal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by simoneves

Meanwhile, I have amp install problems, which I might PM you about, as I'd prefer to give Bimmertech a chance to respond before I go raging here.

PM replied.

jase2addict · 11-04-2016, 07:12 PM

could you please re post pics? I can't see them. Just got harness and want to confirm the wires are fixed before I install. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdputnam

Here is the fix without cutting anything. Here is the wiring harness before any modifications. Note the blk/wht wire is next to the red wire.

Get your jewelry screwdriver set and use the smallest screwdriver to push the tab on the pin connected to the wire and pull out the wire from the other side.

Here is the wire and pin showing you the tab that you have to push in to release the wire.

Switch the two wires and push them back in the plug case. Note that the white wire goes next to the red wire now.

On my wiring harness the tabs were on opposite sides of the pin for each wire. So, if you push the screwdriver in to release the tab and the wire does not easily pull out, try inserting the screwdriver on the other side of the pin.

fancyfl1ght · 11-04-2016, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jase2addict

could you please re post pics? I can't see them. Just got harness and want to confirm the wires are fixed before I install. Thanks.

Best way to know is to plug it in and play some bass.

jase2addict · 11-09-2016, 02:09 PM

If anyone is interested in the etons I have brand new set for sale. Box never opened. I have an thread in the for sale section. Thanks.

ChrisFulton · 11-29-2016, 01:45 PM

Is there any advantage to using this harness verses just coding the ASD off?

SchmullisBob · 11-29-2016, 02:46 PM

Just code it out!

zipphreak · 11-29-2016, 04:11 PM

Lot of threads I've read recently that coding it off either doesn't work fully or only turns it down. too bad its not simple like removing an FA and VO coding it out.

drakensoul · 11-29-2016, 05:56 PM

It must have taken less than 30 minutes for me to install the harness, and I don't often take parts of cars apart.

Super easy. For people who don't want to mess with their car's 'coding,' or don't have the cable or whatever, it's super easy to snap the harness on. There's no learning required.

selmeralto · 11-29-2016, 05:59 PM

Ditto on this.

BEM-S4 · 11-29-2016, 08:02 PM

It's a little harder on the convertible but still under 45 mins. Just be sure to check and make sure everything works before closing it all up.

ChrisFulton · 11-30-2016, 08:51 AM

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to see if I can successfully code it out.

BEM-S4 · 11-30-2016, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisFulton

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to see if I can successfully code it out.

That's ok on the 240 but for the 235 this is really a better solution.

09-22-2016, 09:09 PM	#111
GrayM235 New Member 5 Rep 27 Posts Drives: M235 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Cary, NC iTrader: (0)	He got back to me, thinks it should have the corrected wiring but offered to take it back for inspection and ship another at his cost. Great support When I get a chance to open the trunk/trim back up, I can take a closer look and splice if needed I suppose.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-27-2016, 01:47 PM	#112
simoneves First Lieutenant 88 Rep 300 Posts Drives: '16 228i DSB/THP/6MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: San Rafael, CA, USA iTrader: (1)	I bought one of these harnesses (plus a Bimmertech amp) back in February, but have shamefully failed to find the time to install any of it yet. I checked my harness, and it looked the same as in the most recent pictures(by mdputnam ) so I swapped the pins (white wire now next to red wire) which took all of 30 seconds once I'd found my smallest screwdriver. If I wasn't supposed to be working-from-home I'd almost be inspired enough to go out and install the whole shebang now. But it must wait. Again.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-28-2016, 12:29 AM	#114
Prodigy. Lieutenant Colonel 698 Rep 1,514 Posts Drives: ///M2 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Australia iTrader: (0)	Anyone have an email address to contact TechninPnp directly? sent a query weeks ago via their website but never got a reply.
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09-28-2016, 12:57 PM	#116
simoneves First Lieutenant 88 Rep 300 Posts Drives: '16 228i DSB/THP/6MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: San Rafael, CA, USA iTrader: (1)	HELP... how to remove plate around trunk latch? I decided to finally have a go at installing my amp and harness. I followed these instructions, and it was easy, but for the life of me I can't see how to remove the plastic plate around the trunk latch. This bit... I have removed the four push clips, and there doesn't seem to be anything else holding it down. There are two big Torx bolts under two shaped clip-on panels on the plate either side of the trunk latch hole, but I'm pretty sure they're just what's holding the latch to the body. Do you have to actually pull the rubber seal all the way off? I can fold it back enough to get the side of the trunk liner out, and enough to see that the top edge of the plastic plate is clear, but the plate still won't come out. Is there some other clip mechanism holding it to the body that I just have to pull it away from? I didn't want to pull any harder in case I broke it, and I didn't want to pull the rubber all the way off if I didn't have to, in case it didn't go back on properly (it seems to be still attached in the pics). Last edited by simoneves; 09-28-2016 at 01:36 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-28-2016, 02:40 PM	#117
simoneves First Lieutenant 88 Rep 300 Posts Drives: '16 228i DSB/THP/6MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: San Rafael, CA, USA iTrader: (1)	Never mind. I managed to fold back (or rather, under) enough of the rubber seal that goes across the top of the plate, to allow me to pull it off. I didn't try to pull the rubber seal all the way off, as it seems very tightly bound to the metalwork. The two downward-facing pegs on the plate (which presumably was what was holding on) are a little bent, but I think they'll survive. That side of the trunk liner then just lifts right out, for full access. Of course, the test will be putting it all back together, but at least it's drivable without if that has to wait.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-09-2016, 02:09 PM	#124
jase2addict Private First Class 17 Rep 120 Posts Drives: 2021 M2Comp Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0)	If anyone is interested in the etons I have brand new set for sale. Box never opened. I have an thread in the for sale section. Thanks.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-29-2016, 01:45 PM	#125
ChrisFulton Lieutenant 228 Rep 301 Posts Drives: m235i Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Pleasanton, CA iTrader: (1)	Is there any advantage to using this harness verses just coding the ASD off?
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11-29-2016, 02:46 PM	#126
SchmullisBob Private 40 Rep 61 Posts Drives: M235i Coupe - 2015 Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Gainesville, FL iTrader: (0)	Just code it out!
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11-29-2016, 04:11 PM	#127
zipphreak Captain 454 Rep 986 Posts Drives: m235xi Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: b00ty iTrader: (2)	Lot of threads I've read recently that coding it off either doesn't work fully or only turns it down. too bad its not simple like removing an FA and VO coding it out.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-29-2016, 05:56 PM	#128
drakensoul Private 30 Rep 55 Posts Drives: 2020 M340i xdrive Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Miami, FL iTrader: (0)	It must have taken less than 30 minutes for me to install the harness, and I don't often take parts of cars apart. Super easy. For people who don't want to mess with their car's 'coding,' or don't have the cable or whatever, it's super easy to snap the harness on. There's no learning required.
	Appreciate 1 boostm3683.00 Quote

11-29-2016, 05:59 PM	#129
selmeralto Lieutenant 227 Rep 465 Posts Drives: 2021 M2 Competition Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Philadelphia iTrader: (0)	Ditto on this.
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11-29-2016, 08:02 PM	#130
BEM-S4 Major General 4516 Rep 8,942 Posts Drives: Dinan M235, Dinan Sport Wagon Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Philadelphia iTrader: (5)	It's a little harder on the convertible but still under 45 mins. Just be sure to check and make sure everything works before closing it all up. __________________ 2022 Macan S 2016 F31 328i xDrive Sport Wagon 2006 E46 330ci ZHP Convertible
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11-30-2016, 08:51 AM	#131
ChrisFulton Lieutenant 228 Rep 301 Posts Drives: m235i Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Pleasanton, CA iTrader: (1)	Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to see if I can successfully code it out.
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