THE LARGEST BMW 2-SERIES FORUM ON THE PLANET
2Addicts
2Addicts
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics N55 (M235i) Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Tuning BMW M235i M Performance LSD - Pricing and Technical FAQ

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-08-2014, 09:52 AM   #1
Jason
Administrator
Jason's Avatar
United_States
25607
Rep
20,249
Posts

Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Lightbulb BMW M235i M Performance LSD - Pricing and Technical FAQ

BIMMERPOST NEWS
BMW M Performance LSD Arrives for F30, F32, F22. Pricing and Technical FAQ.
18
COMMENTS

M Performance Limited Slip Differential now in stock

May 8, 2014


Aftersales Business Development and Marketing is pleased to announce the return of the Limited Slip differential to select BMW vehicles! Designed and created due to popular demand, the mechanical Limited Slip Differential provides the extra performance advantage that true performance drivers desire. This differential utilizes 3 clutch plates for a total of 30% lockup on acceleration and 9% lockup on deceleration. This lockup provides instant power to the wheel that has the greatest amount of grip to gain better traction out of tight corners. An additional benefit in low-grip situations is that both wheels get equal power, meaning more forward driving force on roads with reduced traction.

Product Highlights / Benefits:

• Full replacement differential, no modification of existing differential necessary
• 30% lockup on acceleration, 9% on deceleration, developed specifically for the F2X and F3X chassis for optimal traction and smooth locking and unlocking characteristics.
• Integrates seamlessly with the vehicles’ DSC system, no coding necessary
• Better traction in inclement weather
• Superior warranty coverage
• 4 Year / 50K miles when purchased with a new vehicle
• 2 years or the balance of the new vehicle warranty, whichever is greater
• Adheres to rigorous BMW Group test standards
• MSRP pricing $2,895 (2 Series F22 M235i)
• MSRP pricing $2,995 (335i (F30) / 435i (F32))


Name:  Screen Shot 2014-05-08 at 7.43.15 AM.jpg
Views: 10129
Size:  64.5 KB




Technical FAQ:


Name:  bmwlsd1.jpg
Views: 9561
Size:  115.0 KB

Name:  bmwlsd2.jpg
Views: 9391
Size:  89.7 KB

Name:  bmwlsd3.jpg
Views: 9369
Size:  88.2 KB

Name:  bmwlsd4.jpg
Views: 9303
Size:  93.4 KB

Name:  bmwlsd5.jpg
Views: 10960
Size:  184.2 KB

Name:  bmwlsd6.jpg
Views: 9399
Size:  66.4 KB

Name:  bmwlsd7.jpg
Views: 9865
Size:  100.5 KB

Appreciate 0
      02-22-2016, 03:34 PM   #2
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Anyone know if the ring gear is welded or bolted in these M Performance LSD? (Bolted makes for a much easier and DIY rebuild when time comes).
Appreciate 0
      02-22-2016, 11:58 PM   #3
Poochie
Luxury at the redline :)
Poochie's Avatar
United_States
4977
Rep
5,327
Posts

Drives: 2016 M2
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NYC

iTrader: (1)

It is actually welded.. However, I imagine it would very difficult to personally acquire the internal rebuilt itemized parts, as it is usually sold as one completed rear diff unit (pumpkin), lifetime oil included...
Appreciate 1
      02-23-2016, 07:05 AM   #4
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSumair View Post
It is actually welded.. However, I imagine it would very difficult to personally acquire the internal rebuilt itemized parts, as it is usually sold as one completed rear diff unit (pumpkin), lifetime oil included...
The funny thing is the picture right under Technical FAQ suggests its bolted. But pictures can lie.
Appreciate 0
      05-28-2016, 12:25 PM   #5
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

DIY tools question...

I'm wondering if anyone has done removing/installing the rear diff themselves and can comment on the special tools required for the job.

1. Does the exhaust system need to be removed in order to do swap out the rear diff? It seems like ISTA+ has you remove the complete exhaust system in order to disconnect the main drive shaft.

2. What tool (or alternative tool) did you use to get the left and right axles off? Pictures attached.
Attached Images
    
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2016, 05:48 PM   #6
XutvJet
Brigadier General
2909
Rep
3,683
Posts

Drives: 2016 M235 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kansas City

iTrader: (-1)

I wonder if the attached $25 Bavauto front CV axle removal tool would work with this?

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?par...MLYaAngf8P8HAQ
Appreciate 0
      09-23-2016, 06:48 AM   #7
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
I wonder if the attached $25 Bavauto front CV axle removal tool would work with this?

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?par...MLYaAngf8P8HAQ
That tool might actually work for removing the axle shafts... I should have looked looked on their site as well.

In the meantime, here's a PDF derived from ISTA on the removal and install of the rear diff. I believe it's the exact same procedure used in the F30 platform.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf lsdprocedures.pdf (2.27 MB, 613 views)
Appreciate 0
      09-24-2016, 06:31 AM   #8
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
I wonder if the attached $25 Bavauto front CV axle removal tool would work with this?

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?par...MLYaAngf8P8HAQ
Any suggestions for tool 33 5 125?

I believe the purpose of it is to give a better/even surface area for someone with a rubber mallet to push the axle shaft back into place with respect to the rear differential.

I was thinking that a much larger version of this part from a typical hardware store may work... http://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VAL...Hanger/3223521

Last edited by Polo08816; 09-24-2016 at 06:38 AM..
Appreciate 0
      10-08-2016, 08:01 PM   #9
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Any suggestions for tool 33 5 125?

I believe the purpose of it is to give a better/even surface area for someone with a rubber mallet to push the axle shaft back into place with respect to the rear differential.

I was thinking that a much larger version of this part from a typical hardware store may work... http://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VAL...Hanger/3223521
Test fitted the Bavauto CV axle pry bar. It's a good fit. It'll probably work although not as well as the $800 BMW prybar. The BMW pry bar will spare that black plastic shield while the Bavauto CV axle pry bar may not.





Test fitted the HP Autosport differential tool.





I still have not found a good alternative for special tool 33 5 125 which is used to tap the CV axle into the rear differential.


Last edited by Polo08816; 10-08-2016 at 08:48 PM..
Appreciate 0
      10-09-2016, 04:00 PM   #10
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

I did some more digging and it seems tool "33 5 125" is part of a set of tools "33 5 120". "33 5 120" translates into BMW Part # 83 30 0 495 851 which is available on getbmwparts for about $400.
Attached Images
    
Attached Images
File Type: pdf diff axle tool.pdf (63.1 KB, 302 views)
Appreciate 0
      10-22-2016, 05:39 AM   #11
50Lombardy
Enlisted Member
63
Rep
45
Posts

Drives: 2019 M2 C
Join Date: May 2016
Location: New York

iTrader: (0)

Does anyone know of a dealer in the New York City area who will install factory LSD unit? I've tried a couple, and they claim they don't do this kind of work. Interesting that dealers would turn away customer who wants a factory performance option installed. Thanks
Appreciate 0
      01-01-2017, 07:57 PM   #12
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Updated PDF based on ISTAD v4.3.21 and includes:

- ISTAD special tools required particulary to remove/install output shafts
- BMW KSD labor/time estimates
Attached Images
File Type: pdf lsdprocedures.pdf (2.92 MB, 578 views)
Appreciate 0
      01-07-2017, 08:48 PM   #13
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Updated procedures to include more pre-requisite steps as well as removing/replacing rubber mounts/bushings for rear differential (front and rear), more KSD labor time, etc.

Unknown tools on page 71 and 74.

33 0 031
33 0 032
33 0 035
33 0 036
33 4 275

*33 0 3x presumed to be part of complete set 330030 but I'm not able to find any info about that.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf F2x F3x LSD ISTA procedures redacted.pdf (5.27 MB, 459 views)

Last edited by Polo08816; 01-07-2017 at 09:35 PM..
Appreciate 1
jpnh1410.00

      01-08-2017, 06:02 PM   #14
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

I drove my sleepy self to the Auto Crafts Shop at a nearby military installation at 7am in the morning. BRRRR! It was 11F. I was the first (and only) person to arrive around 7am. Yes, I know… I’m crazy… or so I’m told.



I had the opportunity to do a more thorough reconnaissance of this rear diff removal/replacement procedure this weekend. This is a partial dry-run for a future diff swap. I’m still deciding between the BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and another aftermarket clutch based LSD. In the end, I probably see myself going with the BMW M Performance LSD. I will probably keep the original final drive in case I would like to use it as a core unit for aftermarket clutch based LSD in the future.


Swapping out brake pads (equipped with M Sport Brake Option)

I began by swapping out F80/82 M3/M4 brake pads (OEM - Textar) for my original M Sport Brake Pads (OEM - Jurid). It’s been getting colder and I prefer to have a bit less brake dust in the months when I’m can’t wash the car outside as often. Brake fluid remains the same with Castrol SRF.
I’ll miss the better feel of the M3/M4 brake pads. It feels more linear and provides greater braking force at higher speeds, but they’ll be back in action sometime in the spring in anticipation of more AutoX and HPDEs. I always use Permatex Ceramic Extreme Lubricant and never have an issue with noise with hotter/more abrasive pads if applied properly.




Now we begin to remove components to get better eyes on the entire propeller shaft… I simply followed the procedures in the PDF I have attached with this post.

Removing center chassis reinforcement plate.



Removing the complete exhaust. I’m not a fan of cutting the exhaust so I decided to remove the complete exhaust. You’ll need another person to help you (my GF who has a 2016 X3 35i). You’ll also want to have 2 jack stands to support the exhaust.



Slackening (and then eventually removing) center exhaust mount. Requires E10 socket (Inverted Torx bit)



Slackening (and then eventually removing) mounting brackets at axle back (muffler) section.





Loosening the V-band that mates/seals the downpipe to the catalytic converter section of the complete exhaust system. This takes a bit of effort as the bolt and nut are heavily rusted. This is normal. I was able to do it with a standard 3/8” drive ratchet. You cannot re-use this part. It’s one time use which means you better seat it properly when you are re-installing the exhaust.



Exhaust removed.



Once you remove the exhaust, remove the heat shields. You can probably do the LSD removal/install by removing the heat shield furthest to the rear, but I removed both heat shields because I wanted to get a good look at the transmission, transmission mounts, flexible disc, and forward portion of propeller shaft as well.





Front section of propeller shaft.



Close up of transmission (ZF 8HP45) mounts and flexible disc which connects the transmission and front portion of the propeller shaft. They seem to be in excellent condition considering my car has 72,000 miles on the odometer.



Center mount and central section of propeller shaft. When removing the propeller shaft from the rear diff, you’ll need to pay particular attention to the installation and bolt tightening sequences. I believe you will slacken (but not remove) the center mount in order to allow the propeller shaft to belt slightly at the joint, but be careful not to bend it too much or else it will damage the propeller shaft.



ISTAD also says when you need to tighten the insert nut where the rear differential and propeller shaft meet, you will need to brace this so that it does not rotate when you are torqueing down the insert nut. I suppose BMW wants you to place a small metal shaft through the joint and brace it against the chassis. I was initially wary of doing this as it might damage the joint, but I tried to rotate the propeller shaft (parking brake disengaged) and it didn’t budge. Perhaps there is already sufficient internal resistance with respect to the propeller shaft, rear differential, and transmission that the specified bracing method is acceptable.






And we’re finally to the most important part… the rear differential.


Remove the vibration absorber at the rear of the rear differential/subframe mount.



Disconnect the propeller shaft. HP Autosport makes a tool to remove the insert nut with a 1/2" hole. It allows you to place/connect a 1/2" drive torque wrench. The BMW specified tool doesn’t have this functionality.





Release the center mount that you previously slackened.

Tie up propeller shaft to somewhere. Don’t bend the propeller shaft excessively.

Now you need to remove the output shafts from the rear differential.

Here’s a CV axle tool from BavAuto that will probably work in removing the axles.





But the main issue is pressing the output shafts back into the rear differential. With this new BMW design, there’s nowhere on the output shaft to tap to put it back into the rear differential. They require you use a special tool that costs about $400.






Here’s few pictures of the rear differential in place.





While I was in here, I wondered how much work it would be to replace the rubber mounts/bushings for the rear differential. There are 3: 2 front and 1 rear.

Front side of rear differential with 2 rubber mounts.



The front rubber mounts/bushings aren’t bad. They require a special tool. You can find these in the attached PDF.

The rear rubber mount is the one that may require a lot of work. ISTAD Rheingold lists dropping the entire rear subframe in order to replace this rubber mount/bushing. I was scouring the internet to find any tool that would be able to remove/install this rubber mount/bushing without having the drop the rear subframe. I’ve found some similar tools at Koch Tools and Baum Tools. Unfortunately, they stated they were designed for larger F-chassis BMWs such as the 5, 6, and Series. I wondered why these chassis vehicles did not require removing the rear subframe. Well, based on what I saw today, it would appear as if the fuel tank prevents a tool from either withdrawing or installing a rubber mount/bushing due to limited distance. See fuel tank at the top portion of the picture.



That's it for now folks...
Attached Images
File Type: pdf F2x F3x LSD ISTA procedures redacted.pdf (5.26 MB, 542 views)

Last edited by Polo08816; 01-08-2017 at 07:10 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-19-2017, 06:52 PM   #15
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

DIY Rear Differential Install

Originally posted here: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1#post21441541

This is write-up is not meant to be a complete standalone DIY. This is just bits and pieces of advice/suggestions I have for the DIYer when following the ISTAD procedures pdf I posted in Post #145. I recommend doing this procedure with the help of another person. My girlfriend is awesome because she wakes up at 5am on Sundays to help me out on these installs.


I finally received all the tools after 2-3 weeks since the special Torx socket needed to be shipped from Germany. All special tools and parts came from getBMWparts. They were extremely helpful in translating BMW tool numbers to part numbers.


Pry-bar of Thor. BMW Tool # 33 5 120. BMW Part Number 83300495851. This is required for the removal and install of the rear differential. I haven’t come up with an alternative way around (as laid out in previous posts) so I dropped some coin on it. BMW went away from the bolted output shaft design so this special tool is now required.




Here’s how the BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential came:



It comes with a new insert nut so you don’t need to order the repair kit when ordering this differential.


First off, remove the exhaust system and remove the heat shields as performed in Post #145.


Next, disconnect the propeller shaft. I supported the propeller shaft with two jack stands. I then slackened (not fully removed) the two bolts holding the center universal joint (bearing). I secured the propeller shaft against rotation by inserting a screw driver through the u-joint. Usually this is not recommended, however, the BMW ISTAD Rheingold specifies this as an acceptable way to brace the propeller shaft. My guess is that there’s sufficient resistance already since the propeller shaft remains bolted to the transmission.




Then, open the insert nut which connects the propeller shaft to the rear differential. I used a HP Autowerks differential tool for this step. The insert nut must be opened in a CLOCKWISE direction. The insert nut is opposite of normal tightening/loosening directions.




Propeller shaft disconnected from the rear differential.




Remove the rear vibration damper. Removal on my car required a special Torx E10 socket (BMW tool # 2 240 515 and part number # 83302240515)


Now support the differential using a transmission/differential jack. The jack I used wasn’t the best. The chain used to secure it didn’t secure it that well, so I would recommend 1-2 ratcheting straps for someone doing this in the future. The reason is because you will need to tilt the differential to remove and install the output shafts.



Make sure you strap it down between the final differential (back) cover and axle shafts.




Now remove the left (passenger side) output shaft based on the ISTAD Rheingold procedure. You won’t be able to remove the right (driver’s side) output shaft just quite yet. The rear differential mount blocks you from getting a good point of leverage using the special pry bar from the right side.






Use jerky movements and the output shaft will eventually pop out.




Now that you have pressed out the left output shaft, you can release the two front differential bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar. This is a long bolt so once you have it loosened, you can go ahead and use an air ratchet to remove it. Make sure you’ve properly supported the differential with that transmission jack.




Remove the rear bolt. There is a nut on the back of the bolt which needs to be replaced. You’ll need to use a breaker bar to secure the nut against rotating with the bolt when you are trying to remove it. I believe they both were 21mm.




Now lower the rear differential.




Pry out the right (driver’s side) output shaft. This one gave me heartache because I could not find a good place on the actual differential to use as a leverage point for the special pry bar. I ended up needed to reinsert the front and back differential bolts and then pressing against the transmission jack to pop out the right output shaft.




Stock open rear differential finally lowered.




Place the new BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential on the transmission jack and secure it using chain/ratcheting straps.






Unfortunately, I missed a lot of photos at when trying to get the output shafts into the new differential. This was the toughest part of the job in my opinion. The steps I took were different than what is written in ISTAD Rheingold. The steps I took were roughly in this order:
  1. Raise differential on transmission jack.
  2. Feed right (driver’s side) output shaft into differential.
  3. Brace differential against rear subframe. This was done because tapping the special pry bar accessory – the BMW cinching device – with a rubber mallet wasn’t seating the output shaft back into the differential. In retrospect, I could have done a better job of aligning the splines of the output shaft to the grooves in the differential by simply rotating the output shaft until it fit better.
  4. Tap right output shaft into differential with rubber mallet. Don’t use a metal hammer. If the splines and teeth are not lined up correctly, tapping the cinching device with a metal hammer may damage the output shaft and rear differential.
  5. Lower the differential and turn it so that the left output shaft can be fed into the differential.
  6. Feed left output shaft into differential.
  7. Raise differential back up into the subframe to a position where you can re-insert the front and rear differential bolts/nuts. Screw in a few threads in so that the differential won’t move. It is now braced.
  8. Tap the left output shaft into the differential using a rubber mallet.




Now insert the front and rear differential bolts/nuts but do not torque down yet.
Release the chain/ratcheting strap.




Lower your transmission jack. Differential should be in position.




Now it’s time to connect the propeller shaft back to the differential. Once you start to screw the insert nut in, you have approximately 5 mins to complete this procedure. I don’t have many pictures for this portion of the install but here are the rough steps I took:
  1. Slide propeller shaft to the limit position onto insert nut.
  2. Fasten the insert nut to propeller shaft by going in a COUNTER-CLOCKWISE direction.
  3. Insert center universal joint bolts and screw on a few threads.
  4. Torque down insert nut using HP Autowerks differential tool at 85 Nm.
  5. Torque down center universal joint bolts to 19 Nm.




Picture of final install:



Reinstall heat shields and complete exhaust system.



Total time for my install:
6 hours
I don’t think I could ever get it down to the 2 hours spec’d for dealers in BMW KSD. I think if I were to do it again, I could do it around 3 hours.


Initial review of the differential:
It's awesome compared to the stock open differential. When you're accelerating hard out of a turn, you can hear the clutches working and no DSC/traction control intervention to be found. I can't wait to experiment with this at some HPDEs this upcoming season.
Appreciate 1
fbsm740.00

      04-03-2017, 07:58 AM   #16
Polo08816
Brigadier General
1184
Rep
3,283
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

If anyone is interested, I'm selling the tools I used for this DIY here:

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1#post21487001

Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
I've just completed my BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential install on my 2014 F30 335i RWD SAT M Sport. I wrote a DIY write-up here on how to use these tools.

Here are the tools that are included in this sale:

1. BMW tool #: 2 240 515
BMW part #: 83302240515
Torx E10 socket required to clear the fuel tank in order to remove vibration damper.

2. HPA Differential tool
Allows you to disconnect and rejoin driveshaft (aka propeller shaft) from differential.

3. BMW tool #: 33 5 120
BMW part #: 83300495851
BMW special pry bar used to remove and install output shafts into differential. Here's the ISTA page on this tool.
This is a toolset that includes the following BMW tools:
33 5 121
33 5 122
33 5 123
33 5 124
33 5 125
33 5 126
33 5 127

4. BavAuto CV Axle Prybar.
This was not needed for my RWD car.
https://www.bavauto.com/b8800037


These are all the special tools required to:
  • Remove vibration damper on the back of the differential
  • Disconnect driveshaft
  • Separate output shafts from differential
  • Re-insert output shafts into differential
  • Re-join drivewhaft to differential


Appreciate 0
      01-27-2020, 04:46 PM   #17
Mtwotreefif
Registered
United_States
2
Rep
4
Posts

Drives: BMW M235i Coupe
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Yuma, AZ

iTrader: (0)

Installed BMW M LSD this weekend, not that hard

So after reading as many posts as possible, I was expecting a hassle and many hours of work. That's not what happened.
First off, the only special tools I bought were a pretty large 50mm open end wrench from Amazon, ($30ish) and I got a Harbor Freight 800 lbs. Low Lift Transmission Jack ($145). I do have a 5000lb Quickjack which is very nice, but it could be done on some good jack stands.
I have an Active Autowerke exhaust, so once I loosened the slip joint behind the resonator, removed the 2 13mm nuts, the exhaust was completely clear.
After removing the frame brace and the rear heat shield, loosen the carrier bearing on the propeller shaft, set the parking brake, loosen the 50mm prop shaft nut, then remove the carrier bearing bolts, the shaft will clear the diff and drop down. Support the with small jack stand.
Then I used a regular old 18" automotive pry bar put the tip in the recessed grove of the half shaft and popped it a couple times. Came right out. I used a 12 point 8mm closed end wrench to remove the vibration damper, so don't buy the special torx tool. I strapped the diff to the trans jack, removed the rear and two front bolts, lowered the jack, used the jack screws to angle the right side up and worked the left side shaft out, the lowered the diff and slid out the right. Took about 1 1/2 hrs with breaks.

Last edited by Mtwotreefif; 01-27-2020 at 04:59 PM.. Reason: forgot a word
Appreciate 0
      01-27-2020, 04:56 PM   #18
Mtwotreefif
Registered
United_States
2
Rep
4
Posts

Drives: BMW M235i Coupe
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Yuma, AZ

iTrader: (0)

LSD install

The install was even easier. Release parking break first to allow the shafts to be turned to align the splines.
I strapped it to the trans jack, inserted the half shafts in reverse order, jacked it into position and started the rear and two front bolts. I then used only my hands to press the shafts into the final locked position while slightly turning the wheels with my foot. The snapped in fairly easy. I does require a bit of strength, but no hammering. The reattach and tighten everything in reverse order.
My diff came from BMWPartsHub.com, $2283.77 shipped. When it arrived, the box was soaked with diff fluid so I knew it needed some. I ordered Redline 75W90. I filled it with a cheap hand pump after install. It took almost the whole qt.
I'm taking it kinda easy and have done the obligatory figure eights and circles t break in the clutches. I'm going to replace the fluid at 500 miles.
Bottom line, don't buy expensive tools or pay to get it installed. If you are semi-competent mechanic, you can do it yourself.
Appreciate 1
      02-06-2020, 01:51 PM   #19
treycane
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: F30 335
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Charlotte NC

iTrader: (0)

Which pry bar did you use, I'm attempting to install my diff this weekend. Thank you
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:07 AM.




2addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST