[Fraysa]

I've searched pretty much everywhere, but there isn't much information.

I'm installing the Blackvue DR-970X in my M235i and I routed the hardwiring kit to the battery.

Which fuses should I use for ACC/BATT? I used the radio fuse for ACC which seems to do the trick, but I'm not sure which to use for BATT (constant).

Also, when using the fuse tap, which fuse amp should I use? Is 3A ok?

If you ever installed one, please let me know which fuses you used.

[cooolone2]

Why would you go all the way to the battery? Just the fuse block with "add a fuse" circuit thingy works perfectly! Battery tap is only need when the accessory would have a serious power draw, like a sound system amplifier...

Good Luck

[Fraysa]

Originally Posted by cooolone2

Why would you go all the way to the battery? Just the fuse block with "add a fuse" circuit thingy works perfectly! Battery tap is only need when the accessory would have a serious power draw, like a sound system amplifier...

Good Luck

I went all the way to the battery because the fuse box is there. The other fuse box is in the engine and I'm not going to route the cables through the firewall.

I never said I'm using a battery tap, I said I'm using fuse taps (aka "add a fuse"). I was asking for the fuse numbers to use

[MarcoZandrini]

It doesn't matter whcih fuse you use. The fuse tap plugs into the fuse box and provides 2 separate fused circuits that use a shared power source.

[Fraysa]

Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini

It doesn't matter whcih fuse you use. The fuse tap plugs into the fuse box and provides 2 separate fused circuits that use a shared power source.

This doesn't answer my question. I don't want to tap into "important fuses". I tried to tap into the central locking fuse and the car kept turning on the hazard lights everytime I used comfort access.

[cooolone2]

Yeah you did say you ran the wires to the battery! Which means you intended to use the battery for your power! If you said you ran it to the fuse block, that would mean your intent to use "it" instead.

and I routed the hardwiring kit to the battery

You're over complicating such a simple task... What fuse to tap? The "Accessory" circuit... Or for a simpler explanation, the one that feeds the cigarette lighter... Or a lighting circuit! Nothing that has a function, as you have done. Why would you mess with the locks, or starter, or ECU, etc. If you want motion sensing to work when the vehicle is off you'll need to locate a constant ON circuit.

Come on!

But you want to argue about what you said... Oh ok!

Have fun!

[MarcoZandrini]

Originally Posted by Fraysa

This doesn't answer my question. I don't want to tap into "important fuses". I tried to tap into the central locking fuse and the car kept turning on the hazard lights everytime I used comfort access.

You're not tapping into the fuse for something important! The fuse taps plug into the fuse panel. The fuse for the important circuit still has a direct source of power vial the fuse tap. You are basically creating parallel circuits (something important + dashcam) that share the same fuse panel slot. Neither circuit will interfere with the other circuit.

[Fraysa]

Originally Posted by cooolone2

Yeah you did say you ran the wires to the battery! Which means you intended to use the battery for your power! If you said you ran it to the fuse block, that would mean your intent to use "it" instead.



You're over complicating such a simple task... What fuse to tap? The "Accessory" circuit... Or for a simpler explanation, the one that feeds the cigarette lighter... Or a lighting circuit! Nothing that has a function, as you have done. Why would you mess with the locks, or starter, or ECU, etc. If you want motion sensing to work when the vehicle is off you'll need to locate a constant ON circuit.

Come on!

But you want to argue about what you said... Oh ok!

Have fun!

Come on, stop taking things to seriously. When I said "going to the battery", I meant going for the rear fuse panel as it sits next to the battery. That fuse panel does not have any cigarette lighter or lights fuses, hence why I opened this thread.

Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini

You're not tapping into the fuse for something important! The fuse taps plug into the fuse panel. The fuse for the important circuit still has a direct source of power vial the fuse tap. You are basically creating parallel circuits (something important + dashcam) that share the same fuse panel slot. Neither circuit will interfere with the other circuit.

So why is pretty much everyone saying not to tap into important fuses?

-

Anyways, I tried to use fuses #147 (radio) and #150 (trunk) as suggested at some thread here. #147 is great for accessory, however #150 wasn't present in my car. I did try to use #130 which also says it's used for the trunk, however the camera shuts off after 15 minutes.

I guess my only option is to sit in the car with the seats down and wait 15 minutes until everything is completely shut off to properly check which fuses stay even after 15 minutes.

[Fraysa]

I hooked up a multimeter to the battery and put down the rear seats so I can monitor it while I'm inside the car and when it's powered off and locked. I noticed that the constant fuse I chose (#130, trunk) is on but the camera shuts off after a few minutes.

The voltage on my battery dropped to 11.95V a few minutes after locking the car, which explains why the Blackvue cut power and shut down. Time for a new battery :-)

[Fraysa]

Throwing an update here. The dashcam still powered off after a few minutes. I had to check things again, so I folded down the rear seats and this time I waited 20 minutes, and indeed after 20 minutes I heared the dashcam shutdown audio cue. The battery voltage jumped back to 12.5V (meaning the car is completely shut down with no accessories still taking power). Turns out the fuse I chose #130 is also not constant, so I chose another one which has the speaker icon (not sure what it is, probably alarm?)

Everything is working now and the dashcam stays on, however after 12 hours Comfort Access didn't work but the car started up fine, but threw a message on the multimedia about increased battery discharge.

Reading online, it seems there's no way around this message, meaning the car will throw it if anything's connected to the battery and still powered up after the full shutdown. The only solution is to purchase a battery for the dashcam.