[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by bryan_f22

nittos are a wider tire as well, 245's would probably rub.

Looking good, jelly of the clubsport kit!

245 with my current setup would definitely rub the perch.

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Good looking kit in a one complete package.

KW CS's have been rather harsh for street use on the E chassis, but could be different on the F chassis and could be a good dual purpose kit.

"Harsh" is all relative. For people not used to running coilovers these will feel "harsh".

[Anthony235]

Just a little update. Coded out the EDC module and error light so I'm not stuck in comfort mode.

Also you have to disconnect the actual EDC harness in the trunk. Located behind the right rear of the trunk liner. Where the storage cubby is.

New springs should be here this week. Hope to have them installed this weekend along with the new square setup.

[DVC]

Nice setup, Anthony! I noticed the external reservoirs in your unboxing pic, and was wondering if that was going to impact clearance... I guess they designed it well to clear 18" wheels.

I am also in the early stages of fitting oversized wheels/tires, except I'm working on the F30 platform, which I understand has at least a little more room. At any rate, I am considering the possibility of doing a mild fender roll... With your roll, did you just flatten the inner fold, or did you actually bump the fender surface out? If so, how much... and is it very noticeable? Any advice or words of caution?
I currently have 9" wheels with 245/40 Dunlop Direzza SS zII, and I'm hoping to squeeze in 9.5" wheels w/ Nitto NT-01s in 275/35. I've seen this size combo done with other tires (with the same tread width dimensions as the NT-01) so I know it's possible, but it will be a very tight squeeze. I've got Ohlins R/T coil overs, and I swapped the front springs to 7" Swift springs (which have such a compact stack height that they still accommodate the complete stroke of the Ohlins damper), so my perches are up high enough to clear the tire... But I wouldn't be surprised if I still come up short a quarter inch or so.

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by DVC

Nice setup, Anthony! I noticed the external reservoirs in your unboxing pic, and was wondering if that was going to impact clearance... I guess they designed it well to clear 18" wheels.

I am also in the early stages of fitting oversized wheels/tires, except I'm working on the F30 platform, which I understand has at least a little more room. At any rate, I am considering the possibility of doing a mild fender roll... With your roll, did you just flatten the inner fold, or did you actually bump the fender surface out? If so, how much... and is it very noticeable? Any advice or words of caution?
I currently have 9" wheels with 245/40 Dunlop Direzza SS zII, and I'm hoping to squeeze in 9.5" wheels w/ Nitto NT-01s in 275/35. I've seen this size combo done with other tires (with the same tread width dimensions as the NT-01) so I know it's possible, but it will be a very tight squeeze. I've got Ohlins R/T coil overs, and I swapped the front springs to 7" Swift springs (which have such a compact stack height that they still accommodate the complete stroke of the Ohlins damper), so my perches are up high enough to clear the tire... But I wouldn't be surprised if I still come up short a quarter inch or so.

Yes, very close fit in the rear with the external reservoirs. I know some people go with 17" for track use. They might work, but I can't guarantee it.

I just went with a roll to flatten the inner lip (done it on almost all my cars). Having said that, even when just flattening the inside lip you will get some minor pull to the fender. It's just inherent with the rolling process. Not much you can do to get around it.

Most people will not even notice it, but I notice it just because of my own experiences. I hope a roll is all that's needed to fit my 255 up front. I actually think I will have room to spare.

Obviously if you do a roll and a pull you will get more clearance.

Advice: On the the 2 series you do NOT have to cut the plastic fender lining like you do on most other cars when doing a roll. Make sure whoever does your roll realizes that. This is actually a nice plus, because it allows a cleaner roll (no tabs to create waves in the fender). I assume your F30 is the same.

Many cars need to have the fender lining cut along the lip when rolling because the liner and lip are flush. Most of my other cars were like this.



I'm not familiar with F30 specs to give you any advice on clearance issues.

I have run NT01s though on some of my other cars. Great tire for the money, though I think some of the new street class tires are close to NT01 laptimes without the drawbacks of a R compound tire.

I do think a 275 is too wide for 9.5" wheel though. You can do it, but you won't be taking advantage of the whole tire width on a 9.5" wheel. You'll probably want to run higher than normal psi to compensate for side wall rolling.

You may actually get better lap time with a narrower tire on a 9.5". Stiffer sidewall and will probably weigh less.

For example I ran a 255 square NT01 on my S2000 with a 9.5" wheel. Might have been a 9" wheel...it was long ago

Just my thoughts and opinions.

Good choice with the Swift springs. I ran them on my NISMO 370z with coilovers

I went with Eibach springs for the KW setup as they seem to have the most spring travel when compressed.

Car is scheduled to be in the shop this Friday for it's track spec special install Will update soon!

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

I just went with a roll to flatten the inner lip (done it on almost all my cars). Having said that, even when just flattening the inside lip you will get some minor pull to the fender. It's just inherent with the rolling process. Not much you can do to get around it.

Obviously if you do a roll and a pull you will get more clearance.

Good to know - thanks. I'll start with just a "roll" and hopefully that will be all I need.

Originally Posted by Anthony235

I have run NT01s though on some of my other cars. Great tire for the money, though I think some of the new street class tires are close to NT01 laptimes without the drawbacks of a R compound tire.

I have been thinking of this too... These wheels/tires will be dedicated for the track only, so I wasn't too worried about street-ability, just having fun and hopefully improving lap times a bit. And I've read a lot of reviews of the NT-01s checking all the boxes I'm looking for: solid grip for an entry-level R comp; good feedback at the limit/forgiving break-away characteristics; decent durability and grip improves all the way to cord. That said, they're several years old now, so if a set of RE-71R street tires are 95% as good, then that approach may make more sense... especially considering that they're available in more sizes...

Originally Posted by Anthony235

I do think a 275 is too wide for 9.5" wheel though. You can do it, but you won't be taking advantage of the whole tire width on a 9.5" wheel. You'll probably want to run higher than normal psi to compensate for side wall rolling.

You may actually get better lap time with a narrower tire on a 9.5". Stiffer sidewall and will probably weigh less.

For example I ran a 255 square NT01 on my S2000 with a 9.5" wheel. Might have been a 9" wheel...it was long ago :thumbsup

This had been on my mind a lot lately too. While it's fair to note that every 275/35-18 I've looked at has listed a 9.5" wheel as its ideal/measuring wheel, I would much prefer a 265mm tire on a 9.5" wheel (or step up to a 10" wheel for a 275mm tire - which I just won't be able to squeeze in without major fender pulling). But our options for an 18" NT-01 are 245mm or 275mm...that's it. So if I want a 265/35-18, I'll have to widen the search. Any other suggestions that would be similar to NT-01s?

Originally Posted by Anthony235

Car is scheduled to be in the shop this Friday for it's track spec special install Will update soon!

Looking forward to the next update!

[zipphreak]

What's the coding procedure to remove EDC for the adaptive suspension folks who want to remove it so we don't need the expensive EDC delete modules? Is there a DIY available?

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by DVC

I have been thinking of this too... These wheels/tires will be dedicated for the track only, so I wasn't too worried about street-ability, just having fun and hopefully improving lap times a bit. And I've read a lot of reviews of the NT-01s checking all the boxes I'm looking for: solid grip for an entry-level R comp; good feedback at the limit/forgiving break-away characteristics; decent durability and grip improves all the way to cord. That said, they're several years old now, so if a set of RE-71R street tires are 95% as good, then that approach may make more sense... especially considering that they're available in more sizes...



This had been on my mind a lot lately too. While it's fair to note that every 275/35-18 I've looked at has listed a 9.5" wheel as its ideal/measuring wheel, I would much prefer a 265mm tire on a 9.5" wheel (or step up to a 10" wheel for a 275mm tire - which I just won't be able to squeeze in without major fender pulling). But our options for an 18" NT-01 are 245mm or 275mm...that's it. So if I want a 265/35-18, I'll have to widen the search. Any other suggestions that would be similar to NT-01s?

NT01 is old tire tech, but if you can get them at a good price and the size you want then it's a good tire. If I was going to go with a R comp tire again I would be looking at the R888. They just released a new R888-R in the US. I can tell you from personal experience that it's a very loud tire, but if it's a dedicated track setup it's a not an issue. Sooner or later I will probably get a dedicated wheel/R comp tire setup to swap out for track days. R888r will be at the top of my consideration. They are comparable in price to the RE71R I went with....for my size anyways.

Not sure your experience with R comps, but if they are your first experience with them be prepared to be amazed Just make sure you have a dedicated track pad and fluid to go with them. They will kill any other setup in a heartbeat if you're pushing the tire anywhere near its limit.

I think the ideal measuring width that manufactures list is a good starting point, but probably aren't based on laptimes or performance. They just use industry standards based on tire wear, road noise, DOT, etc.

For track use I prefer to run a wider wheel than the listed "ideal" width. Usually 0.5" wider to a max of 1" depending on tire and car. Every car and setup is different though.

Again, all my opinions.

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

What's the coding procedure to remove EDC for the adaptive suspension folks who want to remove it so we don't need the expensive EDC delete modules? Is there a DIY available?

Other than unplugging the trunk harness that I mentioned in my previous post I can't help you. I went to a local coder for the software portion.

pikcachu can probably give you specifics on the software part.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

NT01 is old tire tech, but if you can get them at a good price and the size you want then it's a good tire. If I was going to go with a R comp tire again I would be looking at the R888. They just released a new R888-R in the US. I can tell you from personal experience that it's a very loud tire, but if it's a dedicated track setup it's a not an issue. Sooner or later I will probably get a dedicated wheel/R comp tire setup to swap out for track days. R888r will be at the top of my consideration. They are comparable in price to the RE71R I went with....for my size anyways.

Not sure your experience with R comps, but if they are your first experience with them be prepared to be amazed Just make sure you have a dedicated track pad and fluid to go with them. They will kill any other setup in a heartbeat if you're pushing the tire anywhere near its limit.

I think the ideal measuring width that manufactures list is a good starting point, but probably aren't based on laptimes or performance. They just use industry standards based on tire wear, road noise, DOT, etc.

For track use I prefer to run a wider wheel than the listed "ideal" width. Usually 0.5" wider to a max of 1" depending on tire and car. Every car and setup is different though.

Again, all my opinions.

Thanks for the advice! And good tip on the new R888-R. I hadn't seen this new version yet... Toyo must have bigger cars in mind with this tire, as they offer a bunch of 18" sizes, including 255/35, 265/35 and 275/35 : )
I like the sound of it so far, so now to read up on it's characteristics at the limit, grip profile as it wears, longevity, etc.
I'm leaning toward the 265 size b/c compared to the 255, it's closer in overall diameter to OEM, and the max load rating is a good bit higher.

You think the 265 will be faster on a 9.5" wheel than the 255?

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by DVC

You think the 265 will be faster on a 9.5" wheel than the 255?

Can't say for sure. Too many variables in play. Only one way to find out

I've always been a big proponent of fitting the widest tire you can fit, but wheel width has to be able to take advantage of it.

Good article I just found looking at tires:

As a general rule, Tire Rack recommends mounting Track & Competition DOT tires on the widest rim widths approved by the tire manufacturer (up to the widest permitted by the competition class rules).

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=233

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

Can't say for sure. Too many variables in play. Only one way to find out
I've always been a big proponent of fitting the widest tire you can fit, but wheel width has to be able to take advantage of it.

Good article I just found looking at tires:

As a general rule, Tire Rack recommends mounting Track & Competition DOT tires on the widest rim widths approved by the tire manufacturer (up to the widest permitted by the competition class rules).

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=233

Makes sense that there are advantages to going with the widest wheel possible (within the manufacturer's indicated range) for a given tire... but for a given wheel width (9.5" in my case), I would think that there's a sweet spot between stretching on a narrower tire and squeezing on a wider tire... just hard to know what that sweet spot is.

After doing some more research, I'm actually leaning back toward the Bridgestone RE-71R, as it has a pretty awesome reputation of running lap times compatible to the benchmark Nitto NT-01. <link>
With this tire, there are a few options in the 255 and 265 range:

1. 265/35 - which is 25.3" in diameter and weighs 27 lbs
2. 255/35 - which is a bit small at 25" in diameter, although it's significantly lighter at 25 lbs
3. 255/40 - which is OEM-size at 26" in diameter, also 27 lbs

Tough to know which way to go... whether the lighter/smaller 255/35 stretched onto a 9.5" wheel would end up performing better than the comfortably mounted 265/35 with a bit of extra section/tread width.

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by DVC

Makes sense that there are advantages to going with the widest wheel possible (within the manufacturer's indicated range) for a given tire... but for a given wheel width (9.5" in my case), I would think that there's a sweet spot between stretching on a narrower tire and squeezing on a wider tire... just hard to know what that sweet spot is.

After doing some more research, I'm actually leaning back toward the Bridgestone RE-71R, as it has a pretty awesome reputation of running lap times compatible to the benchmark Nitto NT-01. <link>
With this tire, there are a few options in the 255 and 265 range:

1. 265/35 - which is 25.3" in diameter and weighs 27 lbs
2. 255/35 - which is a bit small at 25" in diameter, although it's significantly lighter at 25 lbs
3. 255/40 - which is OEM-size at 26" in diameter, also 27 lbs

Tough to know which way to go... whether the lighter/smaller 255/35 stretched onto a 9.5" wheel would end up performing better than the comfortably mounted 265/35 with a bit of extra section/tread width.

Smaller diameter tire will also get you slightly faster acceleration with reduced top speed. It's also lighter.

9.5" for a 255 is not at the max. You could do a 10" and still be in manufacture spec. For 265 I would try for a 10" wheel.

Just thoughts. You could definitely be faster with a 265/9.5" with your setup and the tracks you run.

I should have my 255/35/18's setup on tomorrow with a 9.5" wheel. I'll post pics for you so you can see how it looks with the re71.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

I should have my 255/35/18's setup on tomorrow with a 9.5" wheel. I'll post pics for you so you can see how it looks with the re71.

Perfect! Thanks - I'll be looking forward to that

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by DVC

Perfect! Thanks - I'll be looking forward to that

255 square setup on 9.5" wide wheels. Took out to the canyons last night no rubbing.

Camber:
3* front
2.5* rear


Do seem to have some coil bind in the front with the shorter eibach main spring. Only happens when first starting the car after it sits for a bit and reversing. (edit: no coil bind. It was rubbing which has been fixed).

Also some minor pad knock with the Pagid race pads when going from reverse to drive and vise versa. Think it's because the pagid pads don't come with backing plates. Similar to my previous cars.

[Anthony235]

Just a quick note in case anyone ever tries a similar setup.

The 15mm spacer up front was not enough to clear the remote reservoir. It rubbed slightly with the wheels straight, probably just surface scratches that I could not hear when driving the car. At full lock though it ate into the reservoir pretty good. Luckily it didn't puncture while I was at the track Saturday doing a sustained ~125mph in turn 8 at Big Willow.

Caught this while swapping the street pads back in and rotating the tires at home.

Now seeing what the shop that did the install (and said my clearance was fine) can do for me.

Ordered a 20mm spacer and it should solve the issue.

So setup should be:

3* camber
18x9.5 +45
20mm spacer

[Anthony235]

Pics for the above post.

[zipphreak]

That sucks man. Those are some wide wheels up front! 8.5 is a good compromise all around with 245's. I think there is one guy that has a 255 with 8.5's square. Are you doing track days (HDPE's) or timed racing ?

I have a staggered setup still with OEM struts + GC camber plates, 235/40/18 on 8.5's front, and 265/35/18 on 9.5 rears. 3mm spacer in the front.

Was the shop that installed them the same one you purchased them from ?

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

That sucks man. Those are some wide wheels up front! 8.5 is a good compromise all around with 245's. I think there is one guy that has a 255 with 8.5's square. Are you doing track days (HDPE's) or timed racing ?

I have a staggered setup still with OEM struts + GC camber plates, 235/40/18 on 8.5's front, and 265/35/18 on 9.5 rears. 3mm spacer in the front.

Was the shop that installed them the same one you purchased them from ?

Yes, same shop installed them that I purchased them from. I'm currently working something out with them to compensate me and/or replace the damage coilover/reservoir.

I'd rather keep the 9.5" wheel up front as discussed in my previous posts above.

With a 20mm spacer it should be perfect. The shop did not properly check for clearance as I asked. Otherwise this would not be an issue. I've been taking my car to shops more and more to get work done, but when this stuff happens it makes me want to work on my own cars again.

[zipphreak]

20mm spacer is pretty large for a track car, i would prefer to have none! If you were showing your vehicle off downtown then whatever have 30mm to get them flush The more you push those tires out, the more strain on your OEM hub bearings. What brand spacers are you using? What length bolts do you have ?

Sometimes the risks outway the benefits, even if if you can do it!

So are you doing HDPE's or actually doing timed racing ?

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

20mm spacer is pretty large for a track car, i would prefer to have none! If you were showing your vehicle off downtown then whatever have 30mm to get them flush The more you push those tires out, the more strain on your OEM hub bearings. What brand spacers are you using? What length bolts do you have ?

Sometimes the risks outway the benefits, even if if you can do it!

So are you doing HDPE's or actually doing timed racing ?

78mm stud conversion. With m14x1.5 lug conversion. No bolts.

H&R spacers.

Track days and possibly Bimmer Challenge. This was the first shake down of the car. Always thought HPDE was a silly term. Think most use it for insurance purposes.

Technically the larger spacer would wear out a the hub bearing faster, but so does running just a lower offset wheel. I'll bet my lower weight 9.5" wheel with a 20mm spacer does less wear than some of the heavy 8.5" low offset wheels people on here run.

Also run hubcentric spacers and it should minimize the issue.

[zipphreak]

Hard to measure and challenge that I have 3mm H&Rs, they are like two credit cards thick..

You know what you doing, and have covered your bases. Let us know when you get it sorted. I want to try the Ohlins R&T's next year..