[GetShwifty]

So I took my 2016 m235i in to an independent shop (Beyer Motor Works in Chandler, AZ, recommended by local BMW CCA) for a new battery (warnings and no start/stop function) and an oil change yesterday and they of course came back with a bunch more work. I've had the car for a year and a half with only 33,677 miles on it now.

They diagnosed a leaking engine oil pan gasket, cracked differential bushing (rear), and new rotors and pads all around as apparently the rotors weren't turned when the pads were replaced before I got the car.

First question is are these reasonable prices and should I take it to another shop to get a second quote.

Service ------ Parts - Fees - Labor - Time based on rate they quoted me
Battery ------ $300 - $14 -- $140 -- 1 hour
Oil change --- $220 - $43 -- $854 -- 6.1 hours
& pan gasket
Diff bushing -- $84 -- $43 -- $1008 - 7.2 hours
Brakes/axle -- below - $23 - $252 -- 1.8 hours
Front rotors - $228 each
Rear rotors -- $224 each
Front pads -- $202/set
Rear pads --- $153/set
Wear sensor - $42 x 2
Grand total -- $4760

I've looked up getting an LSD installed and saw BMW listed it as a 2.5 hour job so why does it take 7.2 hours to just replace a differential bushing?
Is it really 6 hours to replace the oil pan gasket? I've never seen oil in my garage but I haven't inspected the underside of the engine bay in quite a while and the car is still at the shop.

The second question is if I do get all these done, particularly the diff bushing, is there anything I should consider getting done at the same time while they have already pulled some of the car apart?

Though not recently, I do intend to do AutoX and maybe a few track days and was planning on getting 18x8.5 wheels with 235/40 MPS4S tires once I figure out offset/fitment. For the diff, I think I could get a delrin bushing put in as I have read it really improves shift and drivetrain feel. LSD is in consideration, but is a bit expensive. Not sure if/how much I would want to put into suspension bits. As I am not too familiar with what gets taken out for different jobs, let me know what I should think about.

[p912guy]

I think if ANY automotive service facility, highly rated or not, told me I needed nearly $5K worth of work completed on my car, I'd get a second or third opinion. I'd also not mention any of the recommendations from the first shop to any of the other shops. This would be especially true if I hadn't noticed some of these issues myself before taking it into the shop. Let us know what you find out and decide to do.

I'll add that I'm at 57K miles and still on my original brake pads and rotors and my car has been issue free since new.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by GetShwifty

So I took my 2016 m235i in to an independent shop (Beyer Motor Works in Chandler, AZ, recommended by local BMW CCA) for a new battery (warnings and no start/stop function) and an oil change yesterday and they of course came back with a bunch more work. I've had the car for a year and a half with only 33,677 miles on it now.

They diagnosed a leaking engine oil pan gasket, cracked differential bushing (rear), and new rotors and pads all around as apparently the rotors weren't turned when the pads were replaced before I got the car.

First question is are these reasonable prices and should I take it to another shop to get a second quote.

.....

I've looked up getting an LSD installed and saw BMW listed it as a 2.5 hour job so why does it take 7.2 hours to just replace a differential bushing?

The second question is if I do get all these done, particularly the diff bushing, is there anything I should consider getting done at the same time while they have already pulled some of the car apart?

Though not recently, I do intend to do AutoX and maybe a few track days and was planning on getting 18x8.5 wheels with 235/40 MPS4S tires once I figure out offset/fitment. For the diff, I think I could get a delrin bushing put in as I have read it really improves shift and drivetrain feel. LSD is in consideration, but is a bit expensive. Not sure if/how much I would want to put into suspension bits. As I am not too familiar with what gets taken out for different jobs, let me know what I should think about.

I paid for 6 hours of labor to install a new differential and a set of aluminum rear subframe bushings. I'm pretty sure that was the number of hours in the flat rate book (i.e., the same book that should be in use by any shop not working on a time & materials basis). I believe the diff comes out and goes back in during a bushing replacement.

If you're going to install an LSD, the time to do it is when your subframe bushings are being replaced. I think of them as jobs to be done at the same time and had subframe bushings put in my car when I was having an LSD installed. If you're not going to install an LSD, make darn sure you really need new subframe bushings.

The prices for brake jobs bear little relation to the cost of providing them. That's just how it works. If you're at all handy, it's worth learning to do your own. A knowledgeable friend and/or youtube videos can help.

Since the shop indicated that you need new rotors and pads, did the estimate happen to show the remaining thickness of each of the rotors and pads?

Originally Posted by p912guy

I think if ANY automotive service facility, highly rated or not, told me I needed nearly $5K worth of work completed on my car, I'd get a second or third opinion. I'd also not mention any of the recommendations from the first shop to any of the other shops. This would be especially true if I hadn't noticed some of these issues myself before taking it into the shop. Let us know what you find out and decide to do.

^^^ I think this is excellent advice.

[raddoc]

I believe you were just subjected to a wallet biopsy!

[GetShwifty]

Originally Posted by raddoc

I believe you were just subjected to a wallet biopsy!

Haven't paid yet!

[leftoverture]

Originally Posted by GetShwifty

So I took my 2016 m235i in to an independent shop (Beyer Motor Works in Chandler, AZ, recommended by local BMW CCA) for a new battery (warnings and no start/stop function) and an oil change yesterday and they of course came back with a bunch more work. I've had the car for a year and a half with only 33,677 miles on it now.

They diagnosed a leaking engine oil pan gasket, cracked differential bushing (rear), and new rotors and pads all around as apparently the rotors weren't turned when the pads were replaced before I got the car.

First question is are these reasonable prices and should I take it to another shop to get a second quote.

Service ------ Parts - Fees - Labor - Time based on rate they quoted me
Battery ------ $300 - $14 -- $140 -- 1 hour
Oil change --- $220 - $43 -- $854 -- 6.1 hours
& pan gasket
Diff bushing -- $84 -- $43 -- $1008 - 7.2 hours
Brakes/axle -- below - $23 - $252 -- 1.8 hours
Front rotors - $228 each
Rear rotors -- $224 each
Front pads -- $202/set
Rear pads --- $153/set
Wear sensor - $42 x 2
Grand total -- $4760

I've looked up getting an LSD installed and saw BMW listed it as a 2.5 hour job so why does it take 7.2 hours to just replace a differential bushing?
Is it really 6 hours to replace the oil pan gasket? I've never seen oil in my garage but I haven't inspected the underside of the engine bay in quite a while and the car is still at the shop.

The second question is if I do get all these done, particularly the diff bushing, is there anything I should consider getting done at the same time while they have already pulled some of the car apart?

Though not recently, I do intend to do AutoX and maybe a few track days and was planning on getting 18x8.5 wheels with 235/40 MPS4S tires once I figure out offset/fitment. For the diff, I think I could get a delrin bushing put in as I have read it really improves shift and drivetrain feel. LSD is in consideration, but is a bit expensive. Not sure if/how much I would want to put into suspension bits. As I am not too familiar with what gets taken out for different jobs, let me know what I should think about.

Run, don't walk, away from that place and never visit them again. Next oil change, you can ask your new shop to look it over if you wish. But any shop that goes over your whole car and comes up with a list like that when you weren't reporting any issues is likely trying to rip you off. Run away!

[GetShwifty]

dradernh, the quote doesn't have the rotor thickness, but I believe he said one axle was 7mm and the other was 3mm, don't remember what he said about the pads. I'll try to get the details in writing when I pick up the car tomorrow.

Definitely taking it to another shop for another inspection and quote. Is it worth taking to a dealer as well?

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by GetShwifty

Is it worth taking to a dealer as well?

Generally, only as a last resort, but it couldn't hurt if you've got the time.

[GetShwifty]

Originally Posted by p912guy

I think if ANY automotive service facility, highly rated or not, told me I needed nearly $5K worth of work completed on my car, I'd get a second or third opinion. I'd also not mention any of the recommendations from the first shop to any of the other shops. This would be especially true if I hadn't noticed some of these issues myself before taking it into the shop. Let us know what you find out and decide to do.

I'll add that I'm at 57K miles and still on my original brake pads and rotors and my car has been issue free since new.

Yeah, I understand the goal of having a fresh unbiased look at the car.

So just say that I want an oil change and inspection without mentioning that I'm looking for a second opinion or to tell them I want an inspection and second opinion on some issues that the first shop found without telling them what was found?

[harma24]

Use your own judgement as well on some of these items. Do you need new brake pads? There's a wear sensor and iDrive will tell you when the pads need to be replaced.
Is your car telling you it's time? As for the rotors, I doubt they've worn to the point where they need to be replaced after only 30k. I'm at 90k and still on the original rear pads and rotors. You'd know if the rotors are warped; you'd feel it when you apply the brakes.

If you weren't aware that you needed brake work going in, I'd be suspect of anything that shop tells you. Find another and move on.

[MarcoZandrini]

Go to www.bimrs.org to find a reputable indie shop near you that specializes in bimmers.

[XutvJet]

It's fairly common for the oil pan gasket to weep over time. If it's only weeping and not really leaking, I wouldn't bother. Even BMW won't cover weeping seals under warranty. If it were me, I'd just get under the car every year, inspect it to see if it's getting worse, and then clean the oil grim off the pan. I'd fix it once I start seeing drips.

Unless you're getting brake pulse/vibration, I wouldn't bother with the brakes until the car tell you it's time to replace. It is very likely that at least, the front rotors and pads will need to be replaced as they tend to wear the most (70% of the braking power comes from the front). If you've still got 3 to 7 mm of pad, then you've got 5K to 7K miles more life in the brakes assuming you're not a hard driver. I'm quite hard on my M235 and I'm still on the stock pads and rotors at near 50K miles and over 5 years of ownership. The pads and rotors still have a decent amount of service life left according to my measurements.

Did they provide a picture of the differential bushing? I do know that they can tear over time and cause clunking, but that's about as serious as it gets. Are you having clunking? I know F series M cars and 5 series models can have issue with torn fluid-filled rear differential bushings, most of the time the owner not knowing it either. I'm not sure if the 2 series rear diff bushing are fluid filled. If it were me and the bushing is definitely torn, I've just jam some sliced rubber tubing into the void created by the tear and not worry about it until you get the LSD. Waiting until then will save you some labor time.

[GetShwifty]

Forgot to mention that they said the rotors need to be replaced mostly because they have lips on them, huge for the front (several millimeters) and decent sized in the back. I'm getting squealing from the brakes.

I didn't notice clunking and unfortunately did not remember to ask for a picture of the diff bushing.

They rated the oil pan leak as a 7/10 so more than weeping.