[BentZero]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

OK but note that the possibilities of ECU flash failure and dealer threats about the warranty may still exist for this amp. See http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...4#post20053574 .

It would be very helpful if we could hear from a JL 600/6 owner who had a dealer flash. Absent that, the risk remains. Some may find this an acceptable risk.

This is a concern for sure, but an ECU flash should be a rare occurrence. If you use TechnicPnP's harness the stock amp will plug right back in since no wires have been cut. Just keep the stock amp and you'll be okay.

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by BentZero

This is a concern for sure, but an ECU flash should be a rare occurrence. If you use TechnicPnP's harness the stock amp will plug right back in since no wires have been cut. Just keep the stock amp and you'll be okay.

Point taken. As I said before each of us will have to balance the various matters of sound, convenience, price, and risk.

What makes this most difficult for me is that we just don't have much testimony about how the sound of the different amp possibilities compare with the sound of Eton/JL solution. People with the Eton/JL seem to be happy. People with 3rd party amps seem to be happy. I'm happy everyone's happy. But I'd sure like to play music in an Eton/JL car with HK amplification and hop right over to test the same music in a 3rd party amp car. Then I'd know for myself whether the additional investment in an amp would be worth it for me, especially since the cheaper, stock HK amp setup sounds pretty good.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Point taken. As I said before each of us will have to balance the various matters of sound, convenience, price, and risk.

What makes this most difficult for me is that we just don't have much testimony about how the sound of the different amp possibilities compare with the sound of Eton/JL solution. People with the Eton/JL seem to be happy. People with 3rd party amps seem to be happy. I'm happy everyone's happy. But I'd sure like to play music in an Eton/JL car with HK amplification and hop right over to test the same music in a 3rd party amp car. Then I'd know for myself whether the additional investment in an amp would be worth it for me, especially since the cheaper, stock HK amp setup sounds pretty good.

Whether you go the new amp route or stick with the HK amp, you will want to replace the crappy HK speakers. So, logical solution is to replace speakers first, disconnect center, and see if this improvement floats your boat. If not, you can add a higher powered amp next. If the stock HK amp is enough to make the Eton and JL's sound good to all that have made this switch, then a higher powered amp would in theory only make them that much better.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Point taken. As I said before each of us will have to balance the various matters of sound, convenience, price, and risk.

What makes this most difficult for me is that we just don't have much testimony about how the sound of the different amp possibilities compare with the sound of Eton/JL solution. People with the Eton/JL seem to be happy. People with 3rd party amps seem to be happy. I'm happy everyone's happy. But I'd sure like to play music in an Eton/JL car with HK amplification and hop right over to test the same music in a 3rd party amp car. Then I'd know for myself whether the additional investment in an amp would be worth it for me, especially since the cheaper, stock HK amp setup sounds pretty good.

Originally Posted by kdog26372

Whether you go the new amp route or stick with the HK amp, you will want to replace the crappy HK speakers. So, logical solution is to replace speakers first, disconnect center, and see if this improvement floats your boat. If not, you can add a higher powered amp next. If the stock HK amp is enough to make the Eton and JL's sound good to all that have made this switch, then a higher powered amp would in theory only make them that much better.

I have the hi-fi amp. As far as I can tell the people that have tried the Eton/JL combo have the HK setup. I'm too lazy to pull up the specs, but if I remember correctly the HK amp is a decent bump over the Hi-Fi amp in terms of power. For me though it's also about wanting to tinker with car. I went the Hi-Fi route because I knew that I'd be swapping things out, so i deferred the extra expense until I decide it's time to focus on the audio.

To be honest with you, I listen to podcasts 90% of the time and for that even the Hi-Fi system is perfectly fine. As such, audio is likely the last thing I'll play with, but I still want to keep up to date on my options should I decide to sprinkle in some audio mods in between performance and cosmetic mods.

[x3user45]

I just wanted to add to this great post.

I installed the rear speakers, JL c2-400x and disconnected my center speaker today, and the instructions posted here and settings posted here were so helpful, making it so easy to do (30 mins~)

I wanted to say thanks, and also re-confirm that this is a GREAT upgrade to the overall sound quality, specifically in sound clarity and sound stage in this vehicle, it is a no brainier upgrade.

Thanks all!

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by asmo

I just wanted to add to this great post.

I installed the rear speakers, JL c2-400x and disconnected my center speaker today, and the instructions posted here and settings posted here were so helpful, making it so easy to do (30 mins~)

I wanted to say thanks, and also re-confirm that this is a GREAT upgrade to the overall sound quality, specifically in sound clarity and sound stage in this vehicle, it is a no brainier upgrade.

Thanks all!

Very happy this has worked out for you.

[Robimplicit]

I installed the bypass harness several months ago with a marked reduction of the dull drone of the ASD.

Disconnected the center channel about 6 weeks ago and got an immediate reduction of harshness with better distribution of sound.

Last weekend replaced the OEM speakers in the rear with the recommended JL Audio speakers. So far, this has been the most significant change with much enhanced mid range and a further reduction of higher end harshness. It it so much better that think I might have been satisfied enough to stop at this point. But, there is some remaining harshness with some music at volume and I have the Etons. Planning to install those in the next week or two and looking forward to another improvement.

Question re sound deadening. I purchased some weather seal (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and Dynamat for the Eton installation. I assume the weather seal should be used around the perimeter of the speakers to enhance the seal? Correct?
I am planning to place Dynamat on the outer door metal behind the speakers. Any other advice about how and where to use this when the door panels are off?

As many have said this is one of the most useful threads on the Forum. Thanks again to all who have contributed.

[Verrilli]

Hello All,
I've followed the suggestions in this thread and have completed the following in my m235i
- disconnect front center speaker
- disable ASD (coding method)
- replace rear speakers with the JL ones

I noticed immediately a difference with the disconnected front speaker - much better stereo effect.

With the rear speakers, I was really surprised at how much lower in volume they are than the front speakers. Yes, I can adjust them by using the fader and the volume, but it's a bit unsettling to have to adjust so far from neutral to get it to sound right. Also, the volume seems to reset lower every time I start the car so I'm continually having to push the volume up to 2/3 to hear anything.

I was careful to be sure that the red striped speaker wires from the car harness went to the + terminal on each speaker.

My question is if there is a way to do any coding to the pre-amp to adjust rear pre-amp outputs so that when I have the fader set to neutral, it really is neutral?

Alternatively, is there a way to code the maximum start-up volume setting?

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Robimplicit

I installed the bypass harness several months ago with a marked reduction of the dull drone of the ASD.

Disconnected the center channel about 6 weeks ago and got an immediate reduction of harshness with better distribution of sound.

Last weekend replaced the OEM speakers in the rear with the recommended JL Audio speakers. So far, this has been the most significant change with much enhanced mid range and a further reduction of higher end harshness. It it so much better that think I might have been satisfied enough to stop at this point. But, there is some remaining harshness with some music at volume and I have the Etons. Planning to install those in the next week or two and looking forward to another improvement.

Question re sound deadening. I purchased some weather seal (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and Dynamat for the Eton installation. I assume the weather seal should be used around the perimeter of the speakers to enhance the seal? Correct?
I am planning to place Dynamat on the outer door metal behind the speakers. Any other advice about how and where to use this when the door panels are off?

As many have said this is one of the most useful threads on the Forum. Thanks again to all who have contributed.

I did both the weatherstripping and the Dynamat mods with my Hi-Fi coaxial upgrade in the doors (Hertz).

The Dynamat mod is really a matter of taste and ease -- you could do the whole inside of the door if you want, but that would add several pounds of weight. At a minimum you should cover the exposed metal area around the speaker for several inches away from the rim -- including part of the other side of the metal, facing the window. To do this:
- install the Dynamat so that it covers the hole completely
- Use a razor blade/X-Acto knife to cut a 1- to 2-inch diameter hole out of the center of the Dynamat that covers the hole
- Use the blade to cut the remaining Dynamat into 6 to 8 'pizza slices', from the existing Dynamat hole to the rim of the metal speaker hole
- fold the slices inward CAREFULLY so that they stick to the inside surface of the metal (the surface that faces the window)
- Use a screwdriver handle or similar to smooth out the folds against the metal speaker hole rim. (DO NOT use your fingers; the aluminum will slice right through your skin!)

The weatherstripping should be installed on the driver itself no more than 1/2 inch outside the rubber surround. When you take the door panel off, note the plastic flange that surrounds the speaker grille opening and use that as a guide; ideally you want the weatherstripping to seal with that flange as closely as possible.

Good luck; let us know how it goes!

[selmeralto]

Another field report about the extent of the flash problem: JohnnyCanuck reports that he had a Technics ASD harness in his car when he had an iDrive reflash and there was no problem.

Increasing evidence that the harness and and at least some flashes play well together. JohnnyCanuck didn't have an ECU flash done. But it's looking increasingly likely that the ASD harness is OK, that the 3rd party amp is the culprit for flash aborts, and that the setup recommended in this thread is safe with regard to reflashes.

[Beartato]

I've been meaning to post this in this thread in case anyone else is curious. So part of me regrets getting the Bavsound Ghost Subs, but after upgrading the rear speakers and fading the sound rearward, this has an unintended consequence of letting the improved frequency response shine. I can't comment on if I still had the stocks in, but without the harshness of the fronts overbearing the rest of the soundscape the underseat subs are really doing a great job. This car still needs a proper sub though.

I'm aware that technically the subs go quieter as you fade back, but I think I found a good compromise between sub level and frontal harshness.

Speaking of a sub, I've got a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 burning a hole in my garage from an old install. Does anyone have the wiring out of the sub so I tap the rear rear speakers without having to run wires to the actual rear speakers? In return I'll do a full sub DIY here.

[Kolyan2k]

JL Audio C2-400x work fine with HK? Just want to replace the rears

[JohnnyCanuck]

Originally Posted by Kolyan2k

JL Audio C2-400x work fine with HK? Just want to replace the rears

Yep. My install was on an HK system.

[Kolyan2k]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCanuck

Yep. My install was on an HK system.

Thanks. Easy to get those suckers out? Just pop the grill cover and unscrew?

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by Kolyan2k

Thanks. Easy to get those suckers out? Just pop the grill cover and unscrew?

Yes, but you might want to read through the thread where you'll find a few suggestions about mounting and polarity that might be helpful to you.

[Kolyan2k]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Yes, but you might want to read through the thread where you'll find a few suggestions about mounting and polarity that might be helpful to you.

I read that. Thanks

[6MT4me]

I have been following the thread and have bought the Etons for the front and the JLs for the rear. However, I have a cab not the coupe. My rear speakers on on the side panels are component drivers like the fronts, not coaxial speakers like the JLs. I have ordered the component matching tweeters to solve the difference. Just wondering if anyone else has attempted speaker replacement on the convertible compared to the coupe?

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Beartato

I've been meaning to post this in this thread in case anyone else is curious. So part of me regrets getting the Bavsound Ghost Subs, but after upgrading the rear speakers and fading the sound rearward, this has an unintended consequence of letting the improved frequency response shine. I can't comment on if I still had the stocks in, but without the harshness of the fronts overbearing the rest of the soundscape the underseat subs are really doing a great job. This car still needs a proper sub though.

I'm aware that technically the subs go quieter as you fade back, but I think I found a good compromise between sub level and frontal harshness.

Speaking of a sub, I've got a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 burning a hole in my garage from an old install. Does anyone have the wiring out of the sub so I tap the rear rear speakers without having to run wires to the actual rear speakers? In return I'll do a full sub DIY here.

I've got to think that the speaker-level signal running to the OEM subs isn't what you want to run a powered sub from specifically because output increases and decreases as the fader is panned back to center to front (a 'peak' with two slopes). You'd want the output for the subs to roughly match that of either the front or rear speakers, which only increases as the fader is moved -- a single slope.

While the subs' speaker-level input would be convenient since it's summed, that unit you have has stereo speaker-level inputs, so it's kind of moot. I'd just use the rears.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by 6MT4me

I have been following the thread and have bought the Etons for the front and the JLs for the rear. However, I have a cab not the coupe. My rear speakers on on the side panels are component drivers like the fronts, not coaxial speakers like the JLs. I have ordered the component matching tweeters to solve the difference. Just wondering if anyone else has attempted speaker replacement on the convertible compared to the coupe?

The rear speakers in the coupe HK system are components like the fronts as well, but we are all swapping the factory components for JL coaxial and just disconnected that factory tweeter and leaving it unplugged when the new JL coaxial is installed. I suppose if your convertible rear speakers are down low like the front door speakers then, a component may help, but if the main 4 inch speaker is already up pretty high in the back then I don't think the extra cost/effort of the component will do much.

[Beartato]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

I've got to think that the speaker-level signal running to the OEM subs isn't what you want to run a powered sub from specifically because output increases and decreases as the fader is panned back to center to front (a 'peak' with two slopes). You'd want the output for the subs to roughly match that of either the front or rear speakers, which only increases as the fader is moved -- a single slope.

While the subs' speaker-level input would be convenient since it's summed, that unit you have has stereo speaker-level inputs, so it's kind of moot. I'd just use the rears.

That's what I was asking for, it's the same set up I used in my Focus ST back in the day. That car had an OEM sub and for that car the frequency output to that line was so limited you couldn't run an aftermarket sub, you had to tap the rear speakers.

[6MT4me]

Thanks to dog for the reply, appreciated. The speakers level is mid panel, similar to front panel, the matching tweeters were on sale on the JL website for 100.00 even. Having them professionally installed. I think it was worth the investment. Will keep all informed on the outcome

[jase2addict]

Can the audio frog 4 inches be used a hk 228i with out adding any extra power? I have no issue getting the tried and true jl/eton but I love researching options. Great thread.