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      12-24-2018, 05:05 PM   #1
smchuck
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jack stands

All the Youtube videos I've seen show using a hydraulic jack under the meter of car near front and rear axles to raise the car so can place jack stands at the facing points. Is there an easier way to place jack stands on a 230i drive? would be nice if could place the hydraulic jack close to the jack points, raise the car then insert jack stands one at a time.
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      12-24-2018, 05:06 PM   #2
smchuck
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All the Youtube videos I've seen show using a hydraulic jack under the center of the car near front and rear axles to raise the car so can place jack stands at the jacking points. Is there an easier way to place jack stands on a 230i drive? would be nice if could place the hydraulic jack close to the jack points, raise the car then insert jack stands one at a time.
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      12-24-2018, 05:42 PM   #3
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      12-24-2018, 06:22 PM   #4
smchuck
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Very very cool. Thanks
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      12-24-2018, 09:26 PM   #5
dradernh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smchuck View Post
All the Youtube videos I've seen show using a hydraulic jack under the center of the car near front and rear axles to raise the car so can place jack stands at the jacking points. Is there an easier way to place jack stands on a 230i drive? would be nice if could place the hydraulic jack close to the jack points, raise the car then insert jack stands one at a time.
With my wife's Mazda 3, I wanted to be able to easily get the car up onto stable jack stands within a couple of minutes. This is the approach I took with that car, and it's what I plan on doing in the spring with my M240i: https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/1796402-post41.html

I've got the jack and the jack stands (four each of ESCO 10498s and 10499s (the latter are shorter, which work better for me on the 2 series)).

I'll place one of the following on each of the jack stands before lowering the car onto the stands. I've used the E88JPT jack pads, and they work well. I bought a set of the jack stand pivot blocks to see how well they work - I think the car will be more stable when it's up on four pivot blocks, but I still have to test it to see.

ReverseLogic Jack Pads - http://www.reverselogic.us/bmw_jack_pad.html
ReverseLogic Jack Stand Pivot Blocks - http://www.reverselogic.us/bmw_jack_...nds/p/35397927
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      12-24-2018, 10:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smchuck View Post
All the Youtube videos I've seen show using a hydraulic jack under the center of the car near front and rear axles to raise the car so can place jack stands at the jacking points. Is there an easier way to place jack stands on a 230i drive? would be nice if could place the hydraulic jack close to the jack points, raise the car then insert jack stands one at a time.
This is the “official” way of raising with jacks, as you say at the centre of the axle lines: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...guide/GIcCEaOc

I find it is the most stable to place the front or rear stands in pairs, which does mean using the centre jack points. With my car I have two 3.5”x9.5” ramps made from 2x10” planks 12 feet long that I hang on the garage wall when not in use. These ramps give plenty of ground clearance for low cars to position a jack under the centre jack points. I use hockey pucks on the trolley jack lift plate to protect the car.
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      05-19-2020, 06:44 PM   #7
overcoil
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Recalled jack stands
https://jalopnik.com/dont-trust-your...nds-1843546730
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      06-25-2021, 07:02 PM   #8
sekhon
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I dont want to damage the square jacking points, so I ordered some adapters off amazon. You guys reckon those will be fine to use with an axle jack stand, or do I need to go out of my way and purchase a pad jack stand?
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      06-26-2021, 07:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sekhon View Post
I dont want to damage the square jacking points, so I ordered some adapters off amazon. You guys reckon those will be fine to use with an axle jack stand, or do I need to go out of my way and purchase a pad jack stand?
I think an adapter sold by one entity and axle jack stand sold by another entity is a very dangerous combination.

Now I use an adapter sized specifically to the jack point in the sill or central cross member and an hydraulic floor jack to lift and am satisfied. But woulds NOT get under the car until the vehicle was settled on flat top jack stands with NO adapters.

I also use flat top AC-Jack-strands (no third party adapter) on both the sill jack points and cross member center jack point if the car allows.
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      07-08-2021, 02:55 PM   #10
AleksanderSuave
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I usually jack from the side until I can get an esco low profile jack stand in..doesnt take much jack the rear then place a stand up front. Then do the opposite side, and jack stand it. this will give you all the clearance you need
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      08-18-2021, 08:46 AM   #11
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I just ordered Esco 10498 Jack Stands. They also sell a shorter version, but I decided to try the larger set.
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      08-18-2021, 03:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Kinesthesia View Post
I just ordered Esco 10498 Jack Stands. They also sell a shorter version, but I decided to try the larger set.
See if you can change to the smaller version. When using the taller version, you'll look like you're trying to tip your car over. I now own both sets.
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      08-18-2021, 04:40 PM   #13
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I've also got the tall escos. I kind of wish I had the shorter ones but I'm not spending another $200 to get them. With a relatively short wheelbase, the car does look like it's launching to space when just the front jacks are supporting the car. I jack up from the rear side jack points to get the first front jack installed, then move to the center jack point to get the other front jack in place. I've found you have to put the car on 4 jacks when doing an oil change or the oil will drip all over the underbody bellypan because of the steep incline. The tall jacks are nice for getting a little more room under the car for working underneath and they're rock solid.
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      08-18-2021, 06:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerylist View Post
I've also got the tall escos. I kind of wish I had the shorter ones but I'm not spending another $200 to get them. With a relatively short wheelbase, the car does look like it's launching to space when just the front jacks are supporting the car. I jack up from the rear side jack points to get the first front jack installed, then move to the center jack point to get the other front jack in place. I've found you have to put the car on 4 jacks when doing an oil change or the oil will drip all over the underbody bellypan because of the steep incline. The tall jacks are nice for getting a little more room under the car for working underneath and they're rock solid.
For those who have yet to purchase a set of the ESCOs, I'm fairly certain the shorties adjusted to their vertical limit will lift the car high enough to make an oil change convenient. I can't swear to it, though.

To get around the typical issues in getting the car up on all four jack stands, I chose to have centrally-positioned jack points installed on both sides of the car. That modification was well worth it, as now it takes only a few minutes to put the car up on four jack stands. Photos here: https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...00&postcount=1.
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TC Kline Coilovers; H&R Front Bar; Wavetrac; Al Subframe Bushings; 18X9/9½ ARC-8s; 255/35-18 PS4S (4); Dinan Elite V2 & CAI; MPerf Orange BBK; Schroth Quick Fit Pro;
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