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      11-05-2018, 04:56 PM   #1
dradernh
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M-Sport Brake Caliper Guide Pin Removal

Has anyone removed their M-Sport brake caliper guide pins - if so, what tool did you use to drive them out?
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      11-05-2018, 05:38 PM   #2
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https://www.racingbrake.com/product-p/ccp01.htm

When I do mine I plan on getting this plus a piston retractor
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      11-05-2018, 06:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
https://www.racingbrake.com/product-p/ccp01.htm

When I do mine I plan on getting this plus a piston retractor
Thanks, Scott, good find!
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      11-05-2018, 06:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Has anyone removed their M-Sport brake caliper guide pins - if so, what tool did you use to drive them out?
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-62686.html
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      11-05-2018, 06:53 PM   #5
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      11-14-2018, 10:08 PM   #6
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I'm using a set of gunsmith roll pin punches. Like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QO2XGRW

At $7 bucks for a set of 3 (usable), the price can't be beat. The quality on these is very nice. They feel like precision tools in your hand, with a fine grippy knurled texture.

They have a hole on the end that centers the punch nicely on the pin end to drive it out. Way better than a nail set. 3 of the 4 work great, but the 4th is a bit too big (but not quite big enough to fit over the large pin end for insertion).

I'm still looking for a really good way to drive the pins back in. The clearance, especially on the rear, is really tight to use a punch (even these small ones) and a hammer. I usually end up turning the hammer sideways.
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      11-14-2018, 10:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
I'm using a set of gunsmith roll pin punches. Like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QO2XGRW

At $7 bucks for a set of 3 (usable), the price can't be beat. The quality on these is very nice. They feel like precision tools in your hand, with a fine grippy knurled texture.

They have a hole on the end that centers the punch nicely on the pin end to drive it out. Way better than a nail set. 3 of the 4 work great, but the 4th is a bit too big (but not quite big enough to fit over the large pin end for insertion).

I'm still looking for a really good way to drive the pins back in. The clearance, especially on the rear, is really tight to use a punch (even these small ones) and a hammer. I usually end up turning the hammer sideways.
Thanks, this is useful!

Can you tell me which size punch you think fits the best when driving the pins out?

I bought a stubby hammer that I figured I'd turn sideways for driving the pins back in. I haven't gotten to the job yet, though, so I'm not sure what I'll end up deciding works best for me.
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      11-15-2018, 01:06 AM   #8
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I already had a punch kit, just used what made sense.. Nice to see other options out there!
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      11-16-2018, 07:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Can you tell me which size punch you think fits the best when driving the pins out?

I bought a stubby hammer that I figured I'd turn sideways for driving the pins back in. I haven't gotten to the job yet, though, so I'm not sure what I'll end up deciding works best for me.
The outside diameter of the 3 smaller gunsmith punches are all the same size, which fits the brake pin hole perfectly. They have different size holes in the tips. All of the holes center the punch on the brake pin nicely, but the middle size fits best.

When driving the brake pins back in you still need a punch of some sort to give the hammer some clearance from the brake frame. Otherwise you'll end up whacking the hammer against the side of the brake cylinder and marking it badly. On the back side, so you don't see it (much), but it bothers me. The problem is that by the time you get a short punch in there, you only have about 2" to swing the hammer. Takes a lot of small taps.
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      12-15-2018, 10:26 AM   #10
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Two tips from the guy at the track who let me watch him do a swap:
- bought a set of pins at Harbor freight and cut the right one down to make a stubby (mostly shortened the butt-end to almost nothing). Real pin punches w/ a straight cylinder punch, not those conical nail-sets Pikachu listed.
-used a 12-18" length of bar stock (about 2"x1/4") as a hammer - super-thin but heavy enough to add some hammer-action. It also helps to be able to turn the wheels side to side for clearance.

I'm planning to replace my non-//M brakes with either the stock //M Brembos or the big-brake version, especially after seeing how much easier the pad changes are for this (mine need the calipers taken off to swap pads).
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