[m3cmm]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

I get a knock/click at close to full lock in reverse when parallel parking. I also do have the ectra spacer in there?

After I put in the TSs and a new Bimmerworld bearing kit, the knock went away for me. I assume it was related to the fact that the geometry was messed up. The old bearing (I originally had the Dinan one in for the stock TS) looked like it had a lot of stress on it.

I did not add the extra spacer to the LCA though

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by m3cmm

After I put in the TSs and a new Bimmerworld bearing kit, the knock went away for me.

Can you provide a link to the Bimmerworld bearing kit?

[m3cmm]

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensio...SABEgK15vD_BwE

Definitely a raw, solid feeling and half as much as the Dinan option. I would recommend them.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by m3cmm

After I put in the TSs and a new Bimmerworld bearing kit, the knock went away for me. I assume it was related to the fact that the geometry was messed up. The old bearing (I originally had the Dinan one in for the stock TS) looked like it had a lot of stress on it.

I did not add the extra spacer to the LCA though

Used one of those stethescopes with the metal rod on the end to listen for the click. It did not sound like it was coming from the lca or ts. It sounded more like from the spring perch.

Either way I'm doing dinan springs soon so ill know if that was the cause or not.

[50Lombardy]

Did anyone do this control arm upgrade on F22 and find that the inner tie rod was a little short. Mine looks like it does not have a lot of grip due to longer control arm. Is this a concern for those who have run it a while? Should the inside tie rod be replaced with a longer unit from the M2/M3? Thanks

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by 50Lombardy

Did anyone do this control arm upgrade on F22 and find that the inner tie rod was a little short. Mine looks like it does not have a lot of grip due to longer control arm. Is this a concern for those who have run it a while? Should the inside tie rod be replaced with a longer unit from the M2/M3? Thanks

I have my car in the shop currently installing these arms to my F30 and the foreman called me concerned about this specifically, saying there is probably 1/4" of thread left inside the rod end. Your post is the only other one I've seen with this concern...

Anyone out there who could chime in?

Edit: Called Turner Motorsport and spoke to Doug. He says they've installed these to countless cars and never had a problem getting it aligned, or had knowledge of problems related to tie rod ends reported later.

[madmax240]

What's the bottom line on LCA + TS?
And on the spacers?

Is everyone doing all 3? or only some people are getting noise after only doing the LCA?

I'm looking to get the LCA and I don't think I need the TS. re:shims, I can probably ask my garage to put them in if the fit isn't quite right.

I wil probably get something like this:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...31122284529kt/

once I work out who I'm going to buy them through.

[Bee Pee]

Cheaper alternative from Lemforder, an OE supplier to BMW

F8x Tension Struts @ ~ £137/pr + spacers at ~£10/both sides https://m.buycarparts.co.uk/lemforder/9664287

F8x LCA @ ~ £104/pr https://m.buycarparts.co.uk/lemforder/9664290

Makes the F8X arms upgrade a no brainer IMHO.....BP

[madmax240]

Thanks I'll check them out. I am also looking around for a good workshop to do it too.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by madmax240

What's the bottom line on LCA + TS?
And on the spacers?

Is everyone doing all 3? or only some people are getting noise after only doing the LCA?

I'm looking to get the LCA and I don't think I need the TS. re:shims, I can probably ask my garage to put them in if the fit isn't quite right.

I wil probably get something like this:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...31122284529kt/

once I work out who I'm going to buy them through.

I went with the LCA + TS combo + spacers. No regrets. Highly suggested. It will take more time to do two installs of each rather than one install of both. It's not like an install of either TS's or LCA's is like throwing in an air freshener into your car. It takes significant time for either install so doing both at once saves a lot of time. Plus, if you install one you'll always ask yourself "If the LCA mod makes this much difference, what if I install the TS mod?"

[buster-riley]

what impact does the LCA and TS mod have on noise vibration and harshness?

I have shied away from camber plates because I understand they are "noisy". I do a very few HPDE and Autox on re71's but mostly cruise around on MPSS4 and love the ride. dont want to screw that up.

[XutvJet]

I do these things in a heart beat but:

1) I don't like how they shift the position of the wheel around.

2) A shim/spacer is needed to make them work.

3) There is some concern that the camber puts stress on the strut hat bearing and causes it to fail prematurely.


In the spring I'll be running 245/35R18s MPS4S in the front with a higher load rating than stock. I'm hopeful the extra width and higher load rating (i.e, stiffer sidewall) will help with some of outer tread block wear.

[PeterWT]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

...In the spring I'll be running 245/35R18s MPS4S in the front...

I'm assuming this is on stock suspension. On what wheel width and offset?

Sorry, I know this is

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by PeterWT

I'm assuming this is on stock suspension. On what wheel width and offset?

Sorry, I know this is

Stock suspension. Alutec Drive 18X8 et43. I'll be running a square setup. The 245/35R18s easily clear the front strut. I've already tested it, measured, and others are currently running the 245/35 square setup with these rims.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=27

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1370118

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by buster-riley

what impact does the LCA and TS mod have on noise vibration and harshness?

I have shied away from camber plates because I understand they are "noisy". I do a very few HPDE and Autox on re71's but mostly cruise around on MPSS4 and love the ride. dont want to screw that up.

Just a more "connected" feel up front, nothing harsh, at all. Gives the car a more "raw" feel in regard to NVH in the steering wheel, and the performance improvements from the new camber specs. If you're not running a wide tire setup then the tire clearance shouldn't be an issue or concern with the LCA/TS's. I have them installed (both LCA/TS) and can still fit a 9" wheel and 255's up front.

As far as "noise" goes, there's nothing that you should hear from the LCA/TS mod, imo. The top hats/camber plates are a tough one, though. Seems the only way to avoid the "clicking" noises is to go with a full coilover/camber plate combo. The factory designed strut and mount configuration do not allow for ideal camber plate designs/bearings. Seems every option to be used along with factory struts, make noise, unfortunately. I'm running KW coilovers w/KW plates and there's no audible noise and have been running these for the entire year, DD'ing on the street for the most part.

Hope that helps!

[Icy J]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Just a more "connected" feel up front, nothing harsh, at all. Gives the car a more "raw" feel in regard to NVH in the steering wheel, and the performance improvements from the new camber specs. If you're not running a wide tire setup then the tire clearance shouldn't be an issue or concern with the LCA/TS's. I have them installed (both LCA/TS) and can still fit a 9" wheel and 255's up front.

Are you lowered/what offset do you run? I use 19x8.5 with 225's and mine rub... (lowered)

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Icy J

Are you lowered/what offset do you run? I use 19x8.5 with 225's and mine rub... (lowered)

Pretty low on coilovers, yea (imo lol) How much negative camber are you running?



For the 18x9's, they're et42, and I run a 7.5mm spacer up front to clear the spring perch and external damping reservoirs. Running no more than -2.0* camber, though, usually closer to -2.5 to -3.0* when using the track wheels/tires. On the street I run the OEM 624M 19's and they also do not rub, but are a bit narrower (8" & 8.5").

Hope that helps!

[Icy J]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Pretty low on coilovers, yea (imo lol) How much negative camber are you running?

For the 18x9's, they're et42, and I run a 7.5mm spacer up front to clear the spring perch and external damping reservoirs. Running no more than -2.0* camber, though, usually closer to -2.5 to -3.0* when using the track wheels/tires. On the street I run the OEM 624M 19's and they also do not rub, but are a bit narrower (8" & 8.5").

Hope that helps!

I have just under -2 front camber with LCA and TS, no camber plates.



How on earth do you have the wheels sticking out 10mm more, 255s instead of 225s and still not rub? Does the extra camber make that much difference? My front fenders are completely bent...



my height for reference

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Icy J

I have just under -2 front camber with LCA and TS, no camber plates.

How on earth do you have the wheels sticking out 10mm more, 255s instead of 225s and still not rub? Does the extra camber make that much difference? My front fenders are completely bent...

my height for reference

Because of the 42 offset vs mid 30's.. And the added camber definitely helps with fender clearance. My wheel/tire up front is also very close to the spring collar, it's about as tight as it can go before being deemed "unsafe" for tire/wheel flex, etc. Apex Racing made these wheels for the 1 series cars, and they struggle with the same pain. With the 2 series fitment being pretty much the same, they recommend them for the F22's as well. You can also squeeze a 10" wheel out back, if you find the "perfect" offset, for the 2 series. The trouble is, the 2 series offsets are very unusual, and the lack of options out there is clearly evident. I went with Apex's suggestion on the 9" wheel because it was much less "fuss" than the 9.5" option, and I am good with 255's square. And although 265's would still be nice, it's not necessary..

There are a few, here, running 9.5" and 265's without major issue, maybe just a fender pull and liner trim?

[Icy J]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Because of the 42 offset vs mid 30's.. And the added camber definitely helps with fender clearance. My wheel/tire up front is also very close to the spring collar, it's about as tight as it can go before being deemed "unsafe" for tire/wheel flex, etc. Apex Racing made these wheels for the 1 series cars, and they struggle with the same pain. With the 2 series fitment being pretty much the same, they recommend them for the F22's as well. You can also squeeze a 10" wheel out back, if you find the "perfect" offset, for the 2 series. The trouble is, the 2 series offsets are very unusual, and the lack of options out there is clearly evident. I went with Apex's suggestion on the 9" wheel because it was much less "fuss" than the 9.5" option, and I am good with 255's square. And although 265's would still be nice, it's not necessary..

There are a few, here, running 9.5" and 265's without major issue, maybe just a fender pull and liner trim?

+42 with a 7.5mm spacer would put you at effectively around +35, and that's with a wider wheel...I'm talking about clearance issues with regard to the outer edge

My fenders are already pulled and extra bent, it's really noticeable from the front, and the front corners of both my fenders have been both bent out sharply

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Icy J

+42 with a 7.5mm spacer would put you at effectively around +35, and that's with a wider wheel...I'm talking about clearance issues with regard to the outer edge

My fenders are already pulled and extra bent, it's really noticeable from the front, and the front corners of both my fenders have been both bent out sharply

Maybe it's the ride height? Either that or camber helping with the outer edge. I don't see it as an issue, at all.

Here is an example of another forum member, he's running 9.5" ARC-08's, .5" bigger than mine..

[bulletrs]

I have the LCA’s installed on my M235i for 2 years now but i notice uneven tire wear on the inside. Is that because of the camber and because the control arm is longer? How to fix this?