[stylinexpat]

Originally Posted by BLK235iNJ

I found this write up...now I'm very unclear as to the numbers put up with Dinan.

If the differences below between the dynos are accurate how are folks hitting stock 302whp on a dynojet. That means a stock car should dyno 8% higher on the Dynapack 326whp. This would be the case for Dinan (they use dynapack). Now add the 12% drivetrain loss and its around 365hp at the crank. Not sure what the f is going on with these numbers. It's making zero sense. With my math I'm getting a zero increase.

Dinan help!!! I think the product was rushed out with bad supporting data.

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Here's a stock car on a dynojet by the info below dynapack should be 8-10% higher. Someone from Dinan please help here. The math is not adding up for anyone.

1. Dynojet - most popular in the USA. Considered the "standard" here in the states since most shops utilize them. For our theoretical "car", the Dynojet will read 100 rwhp, & 100 ft/lbs of torque.

With this dyno you drive up to the rollers, they strap the car down, and do a full throttle pass in 3rd or 4th gear. The dyno will calculate the power based on how fast the car will spin the rollers. This is called an inertia based dyno.

For WOT power passes that you can compare to each other on the internet, Dynojet's are perfect. They're everywhere! But most do not have any sort of load simulating capability. Since 2005 more and more Dynojet's sold have their eddy current loading device. So you can ID them, Dynojets are typically red or black.

2. Mustang Dyno's - not as nearly as popular as the Dynojet's, but all performance shops that have Mustang dyno's DO have the capability to simulate load on the car to map ECU's. These are also great dyno's, are very accurate, simulate load very well, and are repeatable every time. They are also inertia based dyno's where you'll drive the car up on the rollers, strap the car down, and make a 3rd or 4th gear pass.

These dyno's will always read ~12% LOWER than a Dynojet, which is our standard here in the states (unless the shop has messed with the gearing settings in the computer). Because of this, lots of the internet folk don't like to use them. They come on the internet, share their results and everyone says "why didn't you make more power with mod XX". So our theoretical car will show 88rwhp on the Mustang dyno.

These dyno's will always be blue.

3. Dynapack - These are the red headed step children here in the states. Not as common as the Dynojet or Dynapack, but these are the standard in Japan. These are fundamentally COMPLETELY different that the inertia type dyno's.

With the Dynapack (my favorite), you remove the rear wheels, attach the hubs of the car to the "pods", and make your pass.

The load is simulated on the car via a hydraulic pump. Because these are effectively inertia-less, they will read HIGHER than the standard Dynojet numbers by 8-10%. That number will vary depending on how "fast" your dyno run lasts (sweep time), but as a rule of thumb, they'll read ~8-10% higher. So with this dyno our car will now read ~109rwhp on average.

The pods are always red, but these are easiest to ID. If they are taking off your wheels, it's a Dynapack!

And understand one thing when it comes to dyno graphs and product claims! Every dyno graph can be cheated by dishonest individuals/companies. All of them. So always take every dyno claim with a grain of salt. If they are cheating their tests, the truth eventually comes out (usually). Be a smart consumer!

Discuss!

They claim over 100HP and 100 foot pounds of torque in gains but I have not seen anyone post any major gains in 1/4 mile times

[alz0rz]

Originally Posted by stylinexpat

They claim over 100HP and 100 foot pounds of torque in gains but I have not seen anyone post any major gains in 1/4 mile times

The 'gains' are 'calculated' (read: theoretical) for power/torque at the crank not at the wheels. I don't believe anyone has been able to appreciably replicate their claimed output at the wheels.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Only way to accurately measure would be to take the engine out and put it on an engine dyno.

Otherwise you can just use theoretical drivetrain loss compared to stock.

You'll need a before and after on the same dyno to compare the delta.

[puffalo]

Wow this thread has been quite the read. Lots of good info and some misinformation too, but overall I learned allot and it pushed me towards my ultimate decision to go with the S1 Signature package from Dinan. My ride is a 2016 M235 with about 5000 miles on her. I put the upgrades in about a week ago and have since taken her on a number of long cruises, accumulating about 600 miles with the upgrades. My experiences have been highly positive. An increase in power that you can really feel in the seat of your pants, massive improvement in day to day driveability (power delivery is both smoother and more linear), and a very high quality (clean install) well finished product. The spring and bump stop upgrades improved handling massively as well. No more high speed "float" issues which were unnerving (to say the least), when changing lanes and driving at higher speeds. I also switched out the wheels for the M Sport 19" Style 624M, with the associated bigger rubber to go with them. My almost local dealer did all the installation and sales work. Numbers were competitive, install was clean, and the car drives the way it should have come out of the factory (similar, if not better than my 2013 335is MT coupe I retired) Overall highly recommend this group of upgrades !

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by puffalo

massive improvement in day to day driveability (power delivery is both smoother and more linear), !

A stage 1 tune adds a constant level of boost over the factory power curve. It can't make things more linear as it is not adjusting power by RPM, it's simply amplifying the factory power curve by the same 3-4 psi all the time. Not saying this is a bad thing, but the Dinan, like all stage 1 tunes, does not make the power curve any more or less linear. Glad you like it and I'm sure it's better than stock.

[Dinan_Engineering]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

A stage 1 tune adds a constant level of boost over the factory power curve. It can't make things more linear as it is not adjusting power by RPM, it's simply amplifying the factory power curve by the same 3-4 psi all the time. Not saying this is a bad thing, but the Dinan, like all stage 1 tunes, does not make the power curve any more or less linear. Glad you like it and I'm sure it's better than stock.

For clarification the new DINANTRONICS Sport tune is a stage 1 tune and just applies a constant level of boost. The full DINANTRONICS is much more complicated then that and while by naming convention may be a stage 1 tune it does in fact have tweaked boost by RPM mapping involved to smooth out the curve for optimum drivability. Its the major difference between SPORT and ELITE, other then warranty. We dont plug into to DME just so we can grab a single boost signal which is what is implied by that statement.

[bmw235iSD]

Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering

For clarification the new DINANTRONICS Sport tune is a stage 1 tune and just applies a constant level of boost. The full DINANTRONICS is much more complicated then that and while by naming convention may be a stage 1 tune it does in fact have tweaked boost by RPM mapping involved to smooth out the curve for optimum drivability. Its the major difference between SPORT and ELITE, other then warranty. We dont plug into to DME just so we can grab a single boost signal which is what is implied by that statement.

I have the stage 3 tune on my vehicle, I am wondering if I need to get it 'dyno' tuned at the shop or I'm good after installation? Thanks.

[Dinan_Engineering]

Originally Posted by bmw235iSD

I have the stage 3 tune on my vehicle, I am wondering if I need to get it 'dyno' tuned at the shop or I'm good after installation? Thanks.

The Dinan tunes are a packaged tune based on engine and supplemental modifications for each stage (thus keeping variation between cars at a minimum) so no dyno tuning is required or available (assuming you wish to keep the Dinan tune) since it can not be custom tuned in the field. Customization to the degree needed would make the tune not emissions legal since playing with the fuel mixtures and other variables has the possibility of producing increased pollutants, etc. Its a narrow line that we chose to be on the side of emissions compliance so the system can be freely sold everywhere without penalty or the fear of fines.

That said every car is slightly different so for optimal results a custom dyno tune is the best possible option. Keep in mind however this would involve a flash tune to do right and thus opening up the factory DME to allow the tuning to take place. Then of course you have to make sure the person doing the tuning is doing it right and to your best interest. You also have the potential warranty concerns and other factors. Not everyone is comfortable with all of these things but the truth is that is the best course of action for maximum power... assuming its done right.