04-09-2019, 06:21 AM | #793 |
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A last resort, if you can't get the color coding: you should be able to test this by ear.
Put on a track or two with tight bass lines. Face the rear speakers, sitting in the center of the car. Move your head back and forth slowly. Listen for tight bass and clear location of instruments. Reverse the speaker connections on one speaker only. One of the connection setups should have tighter bass with a firmer sense of the location of instruments. Those two speakers should then be in phase. You might find this test easier by setting the fader control to shut off the front speakers. Then, setting the fader control back to normal, listen to the whole system for the same parameters, paying attention to spatial location and tightness throughout the system. Then reverse *both* connections in the back, keeping them in phase with each other, and listen for consistent phasing throughout the system. The goal is to have a clean, firm, consistent and spatially defined sound throughout the car, at least as far as that's possible in a small moving vehicle. Last edited by selmeralto; 04-09-2019 at 03:29 PM.. |
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04-09-2019, 10:35 AM | #794 |
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Mr Selmeralto, I have just upgraded my HK system with the B100W speakers and tweeters in the front of my car. I also disabled the centre speaker and am waiting on some JBL's to arrive for the rears.
It sounds A LOT better so thank you for your guide on what to do but I still have a problem. Sometimes I get some crackly noises but it is very intermittent and I can't just make it do it by turning the volume up. It seems to happen when listening for a while and then a loud section of music comes on and I will get this very high pitched rustling/crackling noise like someone is crinkling foil but higher pitched. This happened with my HK speakers and I was hoping they were damaged and the new speakers would fix this as well as the generally terrible sound quality but it hasn't. Any idea on what I can do or check to help solve this issue? |
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04-10-2019, 07:34 AM | #795 |
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Fitted the JL rear speakers today and it has made another improvement which is great.
I did a test using the aux cable instead of bluetooth and there are no crackles! It seems crackling over bluetooth is a common issue with no fix. |
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04-10-2019, 10:24 AM | #796 | |
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Try lossless source files next.
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04-10-2019, 11:14 AM | #797 |
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Yeah it's just a shame because using my phone on bluetooth is so convenient. If it wasn't for the crackles, I would be happy with bluetooth audio quality on these new speakers I have now.
So I want to be able to answer calls using the car system, have no crackles from bluetooth audio when listening to music and use the steering wheel controls. It seems my only option is to have music on a USB stick or pre-load onto the cars HD and then have my phone on bluetooth just for calls. Bit annoying as I update my music library on my phone regularly so I need to do that with the USB stick as well now. |
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04-10-2019, 11:30 AM | #798 |
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Usb with lossless is path of least resistance. I did the USB option for my father's car simply for ease of use. It's incredibly seamless.
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05-19-2019, 09:21 PM | #799 | |
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I just got my car and liked your approach to make the sound better for reasonable costs. Thanks Much!! |
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05-19-2019, 09:53 PM | #800 | |
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For a vert, would I still want to disconnect the center speakers as a first step, or would I want to replace them and, if so, with what? Also is revised ASD harness currently available? Thanks for a great write up EE60 |
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05-19-2019, 10:36 PM | #801 | ||
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For a vert, would I still want to disconnect the center speakers as a first step, or would I want to replace them and, if so, with what? Also is revised ASD harness currently available? Thanks for a great write up EE60 |
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05-24-2019, 03:14 PM | #802 | |
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when you reference the OEM amp, is there a difference here between the Hifi AMP and the H/K amp? My reading in another thread was that the two were quite similar, so I assume no (minus the increased wattage to drive the larger # of speakers in HK), or does the OEM hifi amp not have built in cross-over function since the HIFI system doesnt run tweeters? |
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05-29-2019, 12:49 PM | #803 | |
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Option 1: The DSP unit itself is taken out of the audio system Option 2: The DSP is overridden by so-called 'correcting' DSP units that are installed somewhere downstream from the OEM DSP. Where the OEM DSP chip lives, and how it functions, is a key difference between the HiFi and HK systems. - In the HiFi system it lives inside the amplifier unit, which can be bypassed because HiFi only uses a (barely) line-level analog signal from the head unit. So Option 1 above works. - In the HK system, it also lives in the amp housing -- but that housing is also a MOST control box, part of the function of which is to convert the digital-only signals it receives from the head unit to multiple speaker-level analog signals, which are only then subjected to DSP. But the MOST control box cannot be removed because it's intertwined with several other Infotainment systems. Only Option 2 is possible. The problem with Option 2 in fiber-optic MOST systems is that the amplifier cannot be separated from the audio stream, so adding a 'corrective' DSP means it must take a speaker-level analog input -- which has already been converted from digital at least once -- correct the DSP, convert it to digital again, then re-convert it back to analog. We're talking at least four AD/DA conversions, which is a really, really bad idea for audio quality. The only solution is to override the MOST interface with another MOST device, which will endemically have its own user-adjustable DSP. What does that mean regarding physical pass filtering for speakers? It makes them totally unnecessary in all cases except one: when the OEM amp is still being used but different speakers (with different frequency requirements / capabilities) are installed. Hope this helps.
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05-30-2019, 01:49 AM | #804 | |
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What the B 100 XHP does is hard filter frequencies the OEM DSP is not setup for? Interesting because one of the german stores I ordered from was asked the above question (what do these parts do beyond the filter supplied with the B100W) and their response was "the switch separates the frequencies better if you install an amplifier or listen to music with a lot of bass. Then the speakers in the door can play louder." Interesting that they mention use specifically when installing an amp (which makes sense as you'd bypass the oem amp) but not when maintaining the existing amp but just replacing speakers. If not using the additional filters, are you losing out on the full system potential by not utilizing the speakers properly, or is there a danger of sending the wrong frequency to the wrong speaker and blowing it? from the explanation I also see it as, the high pass filter would plug into the car's wiring first in the chain, then into the eton speaker, which daisy chains into the tweeter. Based on this, I dont see myself replacing the factory amp, so I may need to order the B100XHP kit after all. The worst offender is the user manual for the product itself (B100W set) which says "The midrange loudspeaker is equipped with two terminals. The first terminal is for the factory installed speaker cable, the second one is for the crossover cable. After connecting the crossover, you can plug in the tweeter cable. This feature allows you to build up a full active system if you wire an additional cable in the door. The tweeter is delivered with a mixed-up-proof cable crossover which is always connected between the midrange loudspeaker and the tweeter. Except in full active operation." So they are referring to this part as a cross-over cable..then referencing full active operation (so power the tweeter with its own channel from an amp..which the hifi system does not do) but not clearly referencing the B100XHP cross-overs at all in the user manual, or explaining the necessary application of them. Last edited by AleksanderSuave; 05-30-2019 at 02:14 AM.. |
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07-10-2019, 11:47 PM | #805 |
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Friends, here is my final installment of my BMW M240i Audio system upgrade. This time I visited our friends at JL Audio in Miramar, Florida to professionally tune my car. I discuss this process with their head DSP guy, Nicolas Ames.
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11-10-2019, 09:44 AM | #806 |
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I have the Hifi option in my M240i. While it's not the best system, I've had the displeasure of living with the "base" option in my old E82 which was far worse.
After deciding that I would try improve things I wanted a solution that was 1) Plug-and-play and 2) Cost effective. I settled on a set of Eton B100W's in conjunction with the HK tweeter pods to begin with, added StP sound deadening behind the mid-range door speakers and metal immediately surrounding them. Results were pretty solid. Nothing mind-blowing (not that I was expecting it to be), but I'm happy enough with the heightening of the sound stage from waist level and the general improvement of sound quality to declare this reasonably quick modification easily worth the effort/money. I've now gone ahead and ordered the B100XN and B100XCN for the rears and center. Once those are in I'll re-assess whether I want to add an uprated amp to the equation in the near future. Last edited by Acheron83; 11-10-2019 at 10:41 AM.. |
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11-19-2019, 06:49 AM | #807 |
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If the HK setup sounds like this, I can't even imagine what the "base" setup sounds like. Wow. I could have sworn some of the speakers were either blown or not working, but I moved the sound around in the settings and sure enough, all the speakers were working. I'm not an audiophile and didn't plan to spend any money on the audio setup, but this has definitely made the rethink things. It legitimately sounds like two echo dots comprise the system.
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11-19-2019, 10:20 AM | #808 |
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For those considering upgrading the amp, I've worked with Technic to come up with a connector that allows you to keep stock amp installed for CAN bus (in case dealer needs to update the car SW) while using an upgraded amp of your choice. In my case we used Bimmertech amp with harness that we tapped into to run OEM stock amp as well. Avoids the need to swap in and out in the future for service visits.
At the very least do not get rid of your OEM stock amp, may need in the future.
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11-19-2019, 02:15 PM | #809 | |
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"... sounds like two Echo Dots." Could be worse. Could be "one Echo Dot." |
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11-19-2019, 03:58 PM | #810 | |
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11-19-2019, 04:22 PM | #811 | ||
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Reach out to TechnicPNP for the wiring solution, depending on your aftermarket amp might be a little different than what I used.
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11-24-2019, 08:39 PM | #812 |
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m235 audio vs M2 audio
Hi:
I will be selling my beloved m235 and getting a 2018 LCI M2. Is there any indication that the HK speakers in this M2 are better quality than those in the 2016 m235? I ask because I upgraded the speakers front and rear as detailed in this thread and have been very happy with the clarity of the sound. At this point, I have the option to remove the Etons and Focals in order to install them in the M2. I will do this if people feel that the M2 speakers are substantially the same as what came in the top end HK system in the m235. Any chance they are better than they used to be; better than the Etons and Focals? Thanks. -Robert. |
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11-25-2019, 01:10 PM | #813 | |
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