[BarryJI]

I drove over a nasty pothole (felt like about a 1.5 inch drop, nothing the car did not take completely in its stride) and I've been obsessed with the possibility of a slow leak in the only tire affected, the front left. I am pretty sure I am just being OCD here and far too willing to scrutinize the iDrive tire pressure app for any anomaly. I know that tire pressures vary with heat differentials and load. The app shows me that the front left tire has fairly consistently about 1.5 PSI less pressure than the front right. Often this discrepancy is reflected in the rears, too, but not always.

As I say, the pothole, while nasty, was, I think, well within the tolerances of both the suspension and the tire (Michelin PSS) and I reckon that if I didn't have the opportunity to obsess by constantly checking the live tire pressure app I wouldn't give it any thought at all. I know the car will warn me if there is a major depressurization. However, can anyone comment authoritatively and rescue me from this vortex? I see nothing caught in the treads that might account for a slow puncture. Thank you.

[pikcachu]

I would just refill the tires to same pressure and then monitor

[zipphreak]

Refill them cold to the right psi inside the drivers door, and keep an eye on them. Also visually expect the outer sidewall for any slices or buldges.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by BarryJI

I drove over a nasty pothole (felt like about a 1.5 inch drop, nothing the car did not take completely in its stride) and I've been obsessed with the possibility of a slow leak in the only tire affected, the front left. I am pretty sure I am just being OCD here and far too willing to scrutinize the iDrive tire pressure app for any anomaly. I know that tire pressures vary with heat differentials and load. The app shows me that the front left tire has fairly consistently about 1.5 PSI less pressure than the front right. Often this discrepancy is reflected in the rears, too, but not always.

As I say, the pothole, while nasty, was, I think, well within the tolerances of both the suspension and the tire (Michelin PSS) and I reckon that if I didn't have the opportunity to obsess by constantly checking the live tire pressure app I wouldn't give it any thought at all. I know the car will warn me if there is a major depressurization. However, can anyone comment authoritatively and rescue me from this vortex? I see nothing caught in the treads that might account for a slow puncture. Thank you.

With pothole hits the biggest concern is sidewall damage and/or the bead/seal of the tire to the wheel.
Punctures are not that likely, though it could happen but less likely.

Do you have RFTs?
Those have very strong sidewalls. Keep an eye out of any bubbles that may form on the sidewall for both RFT's and regular tires.
Sidewall bubbles should be dealt with asap if they appear as they indicate a breach in the sidewall integrity.

As for bead/seal just look out for continually lowering PSI. If it's slow you'l soon see a PSI warning. If it's fast, you'll likely found out tomorrow morning.
It's the hazards of driving on America's lovely and extensive roadway system.

I run the higher recommended pressures on the door sill, the one for continuous highway driving. It keeps the sidewall stiffer on my non RFT's.
I'd rather fix or replace a tire than a rim.

[BarryJI]

Originally Posted by RPM90

With pothole hits the biggest concern is sidewall damage and/or the bead/seal of the tire to the wheel.
Punctures are not that likely, though it could happen but less likely.

Do you have RFTs?
Those have very strong sidewalls. Keep an eye out of any bubbles that may form on the sidewall for both RFT's and regular tires.
Sidewall bubbles should be dealt with asap if they appear as they indicate a breach in the sidewall integrity.

As for bead/seal just look out for continually lowering PSI. If it's slow you'l soon see a PSI warning. If it's fast, you'll likely found out tomorrow morning.
It's the hazards of driving on America's lovely and extensive roadway system.

I run the higher recommended pressures on the door sill, the one for continuous highway driving. It keeps the sidewall stiffer on my non RFT's.
I'd rather fix or replace a tire than a rim.

Thank you. No RFTs here, thankfully. Michelin Pilot STs.

[bluemeanie]

Tire pressure monitors have their individual variations. My front right always reads a tiny bit low. Also, tires on the sun exposed side of the car will typically be a little higher.

I use a high quality tire pressure gauge and adjust the tire pressures when they are cold and before the sun causes any pressure increase. A good gauge will allow you to bleed off air while watching the gauge display. This way you can easily get the tire to within half a psi of optimum.

[Cyberdemon]

If you had a leak the pressure would continually decrease day over day.

Other then that if you measure them with a gauge and they are showing the same level you are fine. A few PSI variation will not kill you, people drove cars for 80 years before the invention of real time pressure sensors.

[zipphreak]

I've had two RFT's get sidewall slices from deep potholes. If you hit them on the edge they will destroy any tire. One was deep enough that it drained within minutes, the other was a smaller penetration and took a little driving before it started to leak, and then it let go completely

I've had 4 bent wheels and 2 blown RFT's this season from shitty roads.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

I've had two RFT's get sidewall slices from deep potholes. If you hit them on the edge they will destroy any tire. One was deep enough that it drained within minutes, the other was a smaller penetration and took a little driving before it started to leak, and then it let go completely

I've had 4 bent wheels and 2 blown RFT's this season from shitty roads.

I believe it.
I call that sliced not necessarily "punctured".
Not common but obviously can happen.

I tend to be very watchful for potholes knowing that during certain times of the year they could be anywhere.

[BarryJI]

Well, I am now pretty sure it's a bad sensor for that tire. I verified TPs using a good digital TP guage. I can be a bit OCD about tech, so for the sake of my sanity I guess I should avoid the iDrive TP readout. Does anyone know if it can be adjusted/recalibrated without undue fuss or expense?