[Kenpo Karate]

CERAMIC/NANO COATINGS (Hydrophobicity and Oleophobicity) - CLEAR BRAS

A superhydrophobic coating is a nanoscopic surface layer that repels water droplets hitting this kind of coating and can rebound in the shape of a column or a pancake. They are not made of ceramic and are just called that because “…pottery-makers created a metallic nano glaze made from copper, silver salts, and oxides that created a glittering effect on pottery that up through the Renaissance, made it distinctive for its ancient, shimmering luster. The term “coating” is nothing more than a new term to identify these incredibly durable polymers. Because that’s all these nano coatings are, polymers.”

Super-Hydrophobic coatings can be made from:

• Manganese oxide polystyrene (MnO2/PS) nano-composite
• Zinc oxide polystyrene (ZnO/PS) nano-composite
• Precipitated calcium carbonate
• Carbon nano-tube structures
• Silica nano-coating
• Fluorinated silanes and Fluoropolymer coatings.

GLASS COATING (Is not glass): “Particles of silicon dioxide within the hard resin that works to repel contamination and increase shine, delay the buildup of dirt between washings. CERMAIC COATING (Is not a ceramic): Lasts 1 – 5 years, provide a combination of protection and shine. Base layer is hydrophobic and needs generally a seal to increase it’s hydrophobic properties. They are not hard surfaces but flexible and only create a slightly protective layer beyond that of a wax.

Reading about several quality coatings (NanoSlic (nanoslic.com); GTECHNIQ (https://usa.gtechniq.com/) Crystal Serum Lite (CSL), Crystal Serum Ultra (CSU); CQuartz (http://cquartz.com/) Ceramic Pro (http://ceramicpro.com/); Opti-Coat (http://www.opticoat.com/); Brillo and the like it seems that realistically (Dependent on how often you wash your car, if you go to tunnel car washes or not and where you live) that 3 years is really (realistically) the maximum amount of time these coating effectually function as intended when applied to a surface. From my readings, the five to seven year claims of some companies have somewhat (by some people) been debunked by chemists, some professional paint shops and detailers as slightly exaggerated. “Lifetime” warranties are not true and anyone that says these applications last the lifetime of a vehicle are incorrect and being misleading to you as the consumer. About every one of these coating loses their hydrophobic qualities over time, which is one of the huge advantages of these products. The product is still there, and providing some protection after this time, but you have to reapply the “Top coats” after about 12-18 months to continue the effectiveness of the hydrophobic properties of the product(s). The minor protection (if you can really call it that) will still be there, but that water beading/sheeting dissipates.

Essentially and most importantly from my research it seems like these coatings only moderately do anything beyond some very, very basic scratch protection of the paint. GTECHNIQ-Black, for example is one layer of Crystal Serum Light (CSL) as a base coat and three (3) layers of EXOV3. The EXOv3 must be redone every 12 to 18 months and the base coat is good for 3-5 years based on what you do from a care standpoint, how you wash your car and where you live. To be clear, they DO NOT protect from chips and only somewhat from car wash swirls from brushes and provide some UV protection. Car wash brushes are tough on these coatings and on your car because the brushes have accumulated dirt in them that begin to scratch the clear coat. The Inorganic Nano-Polymer coatings make the vehicle easier to clean and provide a “Sacrificial” layer. This layer gets beaten up, so your car's clear coat isn't touched. All the ceramic companies sell a similar product to layer on top of their base layer. Ceramic Pro’s version of that is called Ceramic Pro-Light. So you would use one base layer of Ceramic Pro 9H and three layers of Ceramic Pro Light, then they say once a year you also use Ceramic Pro Sport. Ceramic pro also offers marine and aviation coating that aren’t totally clear.

LOCAL WASHINGTON DC DETAILERS:

I spoke to a local DC company that applies these coatings (Ceramic Pro & Opti-Coat) that makes a claim that they can put enough layers on it (4 coats) where by it will last for seven years and even claim a lifetime warranty if they place nine (9) coats on it. One (1) layer according to them will get you two years, but with four layers of 9H they say it lasts a full lifetime (15-20 Years) and they have this nine (9) layer package as well (That is some Opti-Coat package called the platinum package) that is a higher level lifetime warranty. Layering above a base layer and three top coats is thought of by many as a waste of materials and time and that you have gone beyond the point of diminishing returns. The Gold Package from this local Washington, DC based company is $1200 and the Platinum is $2300. I find that claim hard to believe. For most brands, the resulting finish is rated 9H on the pencil hardness scale. I have seen videos that say these 9H coating only last effectively for one year. I spoke to a representative in GTechniq USA and he said nine layers is useless. Anything over three layers is a waste. GTECHNIQ has their Ultra (CSU) that has allegedly a 10H product (Pencil test) rating that is allegedly stronger and dries harder. With that said I think the CSU is probably a little bit better of a product than the Crystal Serum Light or Ceramic Pro, etc. type products, but let’s be realistic, it’s all really just a flexible polymer coating that is only good for a few years and needs to be maintained once a year with some kind of other top coat or re-charge, Sport, Light-Pro or whatever they choose call them to make them sound fancy and technical. “These 7 year warranty coatings are only valid if you can verify you’ve reapplied the product every year or two and washed the car once a month.”

This Aussie claims that no coating of any kind are really needed as the manufacturer coatings are solid and can always be corrected. He is hilarious and this video is totally worth watching.

). He claims ceramic coatings are fear based purchases and do little to protect anything on your car.
Here is an interesting video on Ceramics VS. Waxing from a Swiss based company. Not so entertaining as the first one, but provides some good information.

HOW DO YOU WASH IT NOW?

The question of how to maintain your car that has been ceramic coated basically seems like you should wash your car using special car wash soaps with no waxes. GTECHNIQ recommends their car wash product (of course) and someone else recommended Meguiar’s Gold class Car wash / Shampoo. They say don’t wax the car any longer once placed because it will cover up and thus affect the hydrophobic properties of the coating. It seems they say, just wash it off and dry it with a blower if possible. Some companies sell things that they say boost the shine, but whatever you put on top of it will be softer and likely less hydrophobic, so it seems to me don’t put anything on it other than an EXOV3 type product. Professionals say stay away from car washes which I’m unfortunately not going to be able to realistically do in the winter time because DC winters are sometimes terrible. I want the car washed off and the undercarriage cleaned after it snows to remove sand and salt from the roads.

IT’S ALL IN THE PREPERATION!!!

(Wash; Clay bar; Correct & Polish; Panel Wipe; Coat; Top-coat seal)
PREPING THE CAR WILL COST YOU $60 in materials***
POLISHERS: $330 for both but you have these for the next 20 years.
Ceramic Polymer / nano-coating $115

TOTAL COST: $637 -15% is $619.00 with enough product and materials to do it and clean and maintain your car for the next three years.

***$192 in materials that you can use again and again in the future. You will likely use like 1/3 of it on this one application. So maybe $60 worth of materials.
THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO IN ORDER TO APPLY A COATING.
Just do it yourself it’s pretty easy and will cost you a whole heck of lot less! It takes one day of your time and you will save about a $1,000.00 in year one and have all your left over products to main and clean your car for the next three years.
My recommendations are as follows (but there are other products that work just was well, I only use these as examples because I personally found them to be a good bang for the buck but there are lots of amazing products out there, just make sure you buy good quality products similar to the ones I have listed below. I buy from Autogeeks.net because they are a one stop shop, but there are lots of places to buy this stuff including Amazon, but Autogeeks.net is always having 15% or 20% off sales on your whole order. Build your cart and wait for a weekend or something for the coupons code to come out on their site and add it on check out.

1. WASH THE CAR ($11, $17)
First use Chemical guys clean slate then buy a clear coat safe product to be able to use it in the future)
https://www.autogeek.net/chemical-guys-clean-slate.html
https://www.autogeek.net/britemax-pure-max-shampoo.html

2. CLAY BAR ($55, $20, $40)
To remove the impurities from the paint (Brand new or used cars must have this done) Using an actual clay bar is old-school, the pads are better and attach to a polisher. Be sure to use your slowest speed on the polisher. You can buy a hand bar for maybe a couple detail spots and you need a lubricate. Buy an all in one wash, detailer etc. and use it as a lubricant; it’s better because you can use it for other things later and save some money in the long run.
https://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-au...ium-grade.html
https://www.autogeek.net/ultra-fine-poly-clay.html
https://www.autogeek.net/opnoriwash12.html


3. BUY A POLISHER ($209 + $115) – Griots won first place in 2017 & 2018 in several independent reviews as the best polisher on the market without spending an exorbitant amount of money. Professional detailers use it. There are some better ones out there, but they are significantly more expensive. Every single review always has this polisher in the top five even compared to polishers that are hundreds of dollars more. Only thing is it doesn’t come with its own bag.
https://carbufferworld.com/
http://researchcore.org/todays-best-...ishers-to-buy/
https://www.theartofcleanliness.com/...ion-polishers/
https://www.prettymotors.com/best-ca...d-car-buffers/
https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-polishers

HERE IT IS ON AUTOGEEKS.NET
https://www.autogeek.net/best-car-bu...isher-kit.html
https://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbi...lisher-hd.html

4. Paint correct if car is older and needs correction. ($21, $15)
https://www.autogeek.net/3d-hd-speed.html
https://www.autogeek.net/3d-hd-cut.html

5. POLISH ($21) – HD Polish
If no correction needed straight to Polishing
https://www.autogeek.net/3d-hd-polish.html

6. Panel Wipe ($13.00)
This is to clean your car before application of the Sealing product – Make sure this stage is done as it’s very important for adhesion of the product.
https://www.autogeek.net/gt-pw-250.html

7. COAT IT
GTechniq EXO and CSL Kit (https://www.autogeek.net/gtechniq-exo-csl-kit.html)

NOW THIS IS THE GOLD STANDARD NOT TO BE BEATEN BY ANY WIPE ON POLYMER.

CLEAR BRA (This is really the way to go, nothing compares)

From what I have seen the best and really only way to protect your car is using a clear bra (3M, SunTek, XPEL, Llumar and the like). I had the entire front end of my car and my bumper professionally wrapped by an amazing local company called ProShield (http://proshieldinc.com/) with clear film by 3M for $2200. He gave me a multiple repeat customer discount with other cars. A company to do my whole car in a ceramic coating (they are not actually ceramic polymers) would be around $1500 but the self healing 3M clear wrap truly does protect my car to a greater degree. It's not going to protect it from everything, but certainly infinitely better than some chemical coating. The rest of my car (rear quarter panel, trunk) I did with GTECHNIQ Crystal Serum Light). The CSL is 9H and the Crystal Serum Ultra is 10H so slightly harder after it dries. But if you do three coats of 9H your probably pretty close to the 10H coating. Basically if you spend like $500 - $700 more you get an actual protection for your car.

Now I’m going to go buy the following products from AutoGeeks.net to coat the Wheels and the glass and leather. I’ll go over the rest of my car (over my clear film as well) with EXOV3.

• GTechniq C5 Wheel Armor
• GTechniq L1 Leather Guard AB
• GTechniq G1 Clear Vision Smart Glass
• Gtechniq EXOV3

[overcoil]

Thanks for posting - great info.

[Kenpo Karate]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

Thanks for posting - great info.

It took a lot of time and phone calls and meeting face to face with people to come up with all this, but I think it's a pretty good guide for people to get started and make their own decisions. I just updated it with more information.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by Kenpo Karate

It took a lot of time and phone calls and meeting face to face with people to come up with all this, but I think it's a pretty good guide for people to get started and make their own decisions. I just updated it with more information.

Yeah this is awesome. Only about a month too late to help me a huge amount though. I have been building up all the products over the past month. I also have carpros uk edition ready to go.

[jmwilson125]

Here are a couple more quick points.

Microfiber towels - get way more than you think you need. Also try to color coordinate by task. If you want to be nuts you should have;

-Wax removal towel
-compound/ polish removal towel
-drying towel
-glass towel
-trash towels for exceptionally dirty spots like exhuast tips, door jambs etc

I would go with anything from the rag company. The eagle edgless are great for wax, polish, compound, and quick detailer

You will also need a designated detergent for washing towels with no bleach or fabric softener. Towels are expensive ,but will last long if properly cared for.

For ceramic application you will need a quality terry towel. It's reccomended to have approximately 10 on hand for ceramic coat application. Also recommend to junk these towels after use.

Depending da polishing kit you buy, you will need to get pad cleaner and a brush. A cheap tooth brush can work well.

Lastly, a decent ipa wipe can be made for short change from isopropyl alc, deionized water, and a detergent. ( Google mix ratios)

[jmwilson125]

Also I stumbled across this guy last month. I have been listening to all of this videos on my way home from work. His videos are long but go into great detail. Some of the most recent ones are about ceramic coating.

[cxp213]

Great basic info for those just getting into detailing. Thanks for taking the time to post.