[EEBreh]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

Is the 0-30 oil thin or does it act like a thin oil just in freezing temperatures?
But I do use and like the BMW 5W30 oil.

Mmmm I could actually be incorrect regarding 0w30 oil. I just know a lot of manufacturers started going to it to increase gas mileage. I thought to fight against consumption they also did things like go to thinner rings for less friction, etc. I read something about a lot of newer engines having problems with consumption due to the ultra thing oils.

The first digit is the relative viscosity of the oil on startup, the second when it is hot. I'd just go with a BMW stamped oil under warranty and change it at regular intervals.

Edit: Perhaps I was thinking about subarus with the ultra thin 0w20 oil, disregard my previous posts.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by EEBreh

Just use the factory bmw 5w30 oil. If something happens to your engine and they take a sample, if you use the factory stuff they wont void your warranty. You can get it bery reasonably (6-7/ quart from tischer). Filter is cheap too, around $10. I got my stuff from an alternative place which is a little cheaper. Also 0w30 is very thin, a lot of manufacturers put in a lot of effort to make sure the engine doesnt consume the thin oil (different piston rings are used, etc). After warranty ill probably run a ether based oil like redline.

Local indy shop that specializes in BMWs will do an oil change for $90. I don't have ramps, so I'm considering just using them, but I want ramps so we'll see.

[BentZero]

oops, app double posted. :/

[XutvJet]

Anyone notice that for the 2016 M235, BMW is requiring 0W-30 vs 5W-30? OW-30 is arguably a more robust oil for a performance engine, but will impact MPGs slightly. I'm fine with that. Most performance cars in Europe run 0W-30, OW-40, or OW-50. 5W-30 spec oil is very much a US thing and used to boost MPGs. In turbo motors, you want a robust oil because turbos are very hard on oil, specifically heat.

[Tpeterson]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

Anyone notice that for the 2016 M235, BMW is requiring 0W-30 vs 5W-30? OW-30 is arguably a more robust oil for a performance engine, but will impact MPGs slightly. I'm fine with that. Most performance cars in Europe run 0W-30, OW-40, or OW-50. 5W-30 spec oil is very much a US thing and used to boost MPGs. In turbo motors, you want a robust oil because turbos are very hard on oil, specifically heat.

Don't you have that backwards? 0W30 is thinner oil at start up which may give better mileage but less lubrication. At operating temps they are both 30 weight. To me the 40 and 50 weight oils would be the more robust oils ,not the 0W vs 5W.

Going to 0W oil would be for mileage gains in the M235i like BMW did in switching from 10W60 in the M cars to 5W30 .IMHO

[SchmullisBob]

My local BMW after-market repair shop recommends that while under warranty, use the BMW recommended 5W30 (now supplied by Shell per my shop).

[XutvJet]

My owners manual and the sticker under the hood specifies 0w30 for my 2016 M235. 5w30 is not found anywhere. Looks like BMW wised up.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

My owners manual and the sticker under the hood specifies 0w30 for my 2016 M235. 5w30 is not found anywhere. Looks like BMW wised up.

My dealer (where I got my oil change done) at first said to use the 0w30, but they thought i had a M2. When they switched my info to M235i they said that it called for 5w30.

[csg]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

My owners manual and the sticker under the hood specifies 0w30 for my 2016 M235. 5w30 is not found anywhere. Looks like BMW wised up.

As does mine. Also, I will be doing a blackstone analysis and posting the results for those curious whether a 1,200 mile oil change is necessary. I'm not changing any of my other fluids (LSD on the mod list, want to break the tranny in more before a fluid change).

[Taunto]

Originally Posted by EEBreh

BMW does not mention anything about this for our cars. They only still do the 1200 mile service on the M cars (M3, M4, M5, etc). This service includes all of the oils, which is everything I've done. Coincidentally, they use to recommend that it was done on ALL BMW cars prior to their creation of their "free maintenance" program. BMW made this service mandatory/included for the 1M which has the exact same transmission that our cars do.

Oil analysis that has been performed on BMW engines before has shown that there is a decent amount of metal in the oil at 1200 miles. I imagine the same would occur for any item that has to wear in with movable components. This includes both the differential and the transmission. People such as Mike Miller, who writes the tech article portion in the BMWCCA magazine, Roundel, recommend this.

The fluid in the diff was absolutely filthy in comparison to the new stuff that went in. The old stuff was very dark.

I bought 3 Liters of LT5 fluid for my Trans, I used 2.
The diff I bought 2, used 1. You have to use a suction pump to suck the fluid out of the diff.

The 1200 mile service is done on all the M-cars but the transmission fluid is not changes. Engine oil and rear axle fluid followed by de-activation of the run-in inspection service and a road test.

It is very common to see the Oil from all the drive-line components be a nasty colour. this is due to the additives BMW places in them from factory to help parts seal properly and components to break in properly as well.
Will usually see Rear diff fluid come out Dark grey. This is from the Diff oil mixing with the Paint markings they use when building the rear diffs from factory which is completely normal.
So if you see nasty fluid coming out when you do your first service, this is completely normal.
Me personally I change my engine oil myself Every 5000km.

[M235iguy]

My dealer wasn't willing to do mine of course, I paid to have a oil change and SM waived the whole $12 labor charge lol

[EEBreh]

Originally Posted by Taunto

The 1200 mile service is done on all the M-cars but the transmission fluid is not changes. Engine oil and rear axle fluid followed by de-activation of the run-in inspection service and a road test.

It is very common to see the Oil from all the drive-line components be a nasty colour. this is due to the additives BMW places in them from factory to help parts seal properly and components to break in properly as well.
Will usually see Rear diff fluid come out Dark grey. This is from the Diff oil mixing with the Paint markings they use when building the rear diffs from factory which is completely normal.
So if you see nasty fluid coming out when you do your first service, this is completely normal.
Me personally I change my engine oil myself Every 5000km.

Interesting info, thanks.

Do you have any way to confirm the transmission fluid is not changed? For the 1M it was changed at 1200 miles and we have the exact same gearbox they did.

If you look at older BMWs that started with this lifetime fluid BS, you see them grenade early or perform very poorly. Have you ever rebuilt an old transmission or examined one apart? I've looked at old 915 gearboxes and old transaxle boxes. There are a lot of pieces and a lot of parts that have to wear together since tolerances are very tight. Changing the fluid makes the most amount of sense. I have 20k miles on my F22 so far and my transmission shifts perfectly fine. Your mileage may vary but I still take Mike Millers advice and change the transmission fluid. I plan on keeping the car for a long time and putting 200k miles on it, I guess time will tell if the box remains in good health. I guess the only way to settle this would be an oil analysis sent to Blackstone labs.

List of fluids for the 1 M break in service: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594265

Edit: Guess they don't do the transmission oil service anymore: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1007985

[Taunto]

I am not Saying Do not change your transmission Fluid.
I was just saying We as techs in North America do Not change it on the 2000KM service on any M-car.
I personally believe Changing your Fluid Much earlir is nothing but good for the vehicle.
Especially with Engine Oil regarding the N55/N54 Cylinder heads!

I have Not seen inside any of the newer BMW transmission when they fail, simply because BMW or the Dealer I work for. does not pay me to take it apart and inspect unless advised from BMW them self, which pretty much never happens (and if it did, it would most likely go to the master tech in the shop).
If the vehicle is under warranty, they say remove it and send it back to Germany for inspection and they send us a new one to install and program.

[Taunto]

Also Regarding the 1200mile/2000km run in service...
This is the PUMA measure put out from BMW regarding what is done on the Service for the M2,M3, and M4 vehicles.
Same thing apply s to the X5/X6M vehicles as well just with 9.5L of engine oil.






Measure
The following tasks must be performed during the 2000 km running-in check:

Engine oil change.
Engine oil filling capacity and quality:
Engine oil filling capacity with oil filter element = 6.5 l
Oil quantity in the oil sump = 6.0 l
Oil quantity in the oil filter element = 0.5 l
Engine oil quality:
0W-30 or 5W-30


Transmission oil change - NO -.
The oil in the manual gearbox (HG) and in the double-clutch gearbox (DKG) does N O T need to be replaced;
both gearbox types are filled "for life".


Rear axle differential oil change.
The oil fill quantity in the rear axle differential is 1.0 litre.

The F8x (M2/3/4) is equipped with the same electronically controlled rear axle differential as the F1x, F06 (M5/6).
Therefore the same differential oil is used as for the F1x, F06 , (M5/6).

Rear axle differential oil quality: Trade name -> BMW part number -> container

BMW axle differential oil, synthetic MSP/A -> 83 22 2 365 988 -> 1 l bottle

BMW axle differential oil, synthetic MSP/A -> 83 22 9 407 870 -> 60 l drum

BMW axle differential oil, synthetic MSP/A -> 83 22 9 407 871 -> 208 l drum


Attention:
Filling of the rear axle differential with the known "booster" oil from E9x M3 leads to a decline in the performance of the complete system and should be avoided.


Check the coolant level in the expansion tank for the charge-air cooler and, if necessary, fill it up to the MAX mark.


Reset CBS display "Running-in check":

=> The running-in check MUST be deactivated using the diagnosis system.
(system function: Reset CBS -> DEACTIVATE RUNNING-IN CHECK)

ATTENTION:
DO NOT RESET THE CBS DISPLAY "ENGINE OIL"!


For F8x (M2/3/4) models such as the F10 (M5) from 07/2013 as well as F06, F12, F13 (M6) from 03/2014 the maintenance work should be transferred into the electronic service booklet.

[Tano22]

if I don't have the know-how to do this myself, has anyone ever gotten a quote as to how much a dealer would charge for this service?

[Maynard]

Is the 'special oil filter wrench' the fairly standard type that fits a standard filter housing end? I have one that looks like the photo in the link from EEBreh, but haven't counted the 'faces' and DK details for what they sell specific for the BMW. I'm thinking of doing this myself, at least for the 'mid-point' 7500mile changes. My dealer was quite willing to do it early, but at a fairly high cost for just an oil/filter change (I didn't change the diff, and I have an AT).

[Paisano]

Originally Posted by SchmullisBob

My local BMW after-market repair shop recommends that while under warranty, use the BMW recommended 5W30 (now supplied by Shell per my shop).

And Shell is also featured in most BMW commercials. Default petrol station in connected drive navigation as well (insert creepy X-Files music.)