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      01-23-2025, 12:32 PM   #1
gtf28
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F22 - M240 - A/C Not blowing cold

Hey guys

I need help with an A/C issue. The car has been at the dealer 3 times.

1.) They just refilled the refrigerant/gas and said it was working but when I got the car it was not.

2.) They suspected a leak and replaced all the coolant hoses. 16 hoses replaced in total. Still did not work they then had to order a A/C compressor.

3.) They then replaced the A/C Compressor but they are still unable to get the A/C to blow cold.

I am assuming they have checked the pressure sensors, temp sensors, fuses and HVAC sensor as these are know to cause the compressor to not engage. But as my knowledge is basic at best, I am not sure if these items can be checked using diagnostics or even how you would know if they are faulty.

Note the car is a 2018 and out of warranty and I have to foot the bill every time. So any advice or things to check would be great. Please help!

Car details:
2018 M240i B58 Gen 1 done about 134 000KM(83000 Miles).

Last edited by gtf28; 01-23-2025 at 12:44 PM.. Reason: Added details
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      01-23-2025, 01:07 PM   #2
cristo
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Don’t know HOW replacing a coolant
hose would help the AC circuit (except
if a hose was visibly leaking, it would
need to replaced anyway).
You’d think if the AC failed a pressure
test after topping off it would need to be
evacuated, dried, dye and coolant
added, and find the leak.
If it’s holding pressure then compressor
and the wiring, switches, fuses, relays,
etc., would need to be troubleshot.
If none of that works, then they need to
to be shot (or something - keep your
solution legal).
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      01-23-2025, 01:13 PM   #3
cristo
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One more thing. The Stealership
has no excuse for not being able
to figure this out, except all too
often that’s how they roll.
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      01-23-2025, 01:14 PM   #4
gtf28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cristo View Post
Don’t know HOW replacing a coolant
hose would help the AC circuit (except
if a hose was visibly leaking, it would
need to replaced anyway).
You’d think if the AC failed a pressure
test after topping off it would need to be
evacuated, dried, dye and coolant
added, and find the leak.
If it’s holding pressure then compressor
and the wiring, switches, fuses, relays,
etc., would need to be troubleshot.
If none of that works, then they need to
to be shot (or something - keep your
solution legal).
So according to a few YouTube videos and the BMW tech,
the coolant system affects the A/C so for example on the B58 platform
If the coolant level drops below min the car will not engage the A/C.
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      01-23-2025, 01:15 PM   #5
freakystyly
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As far as I know, the AC is tied into the low pressure coolant system on these cars (small reservoir). That includes the charge air cooler for the intake.

Also check your cabin vent has the hot/cold slider in the center turned to cold side!
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      01-23-2025, 01:35 PM   #6
gtf28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakystyly View Post
As far as I know, the AC is tied into the low pressure coolant system on these cars (small reservoir). That includes the charge air cooler for the intake.

Also check your cabin vent has the hot/cold slider in the center turned to cold side!
That is interesting now that you mention it. After they replaced all the
Hoses I was told to check coolant every day and the first day I noticed the small
tank was overfilled like atleast 3 fingers above Max but main tank was perfect
I asked the tech as they called me to confirm the A/C compressor has arrived
And he said its fine if the small tank is overfilled.

Could a overfilled tank cause a high pressure reading as I have read that
the compressor will not engage if low pressure or high pressure is detected?

Mine does not have the slider, think I have the base A/C system not the one
with screen that has sectional climate control.

Last edited by gtf28; 01-23-2025 at 01:37 PM.. Reason: Added details
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      01-23-2025, 01:56 PM   #7
freakystyly
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https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1498351 Yours may be different, it was just an obvious thing suggestion that sometimes people overlook. (#3) in the diagram.

I've had damage to my low pressure side radiator last year. It was winter so I didn't think to test to see if the AC worked. But my intake charge air temperatures climbed after driving for 10-15 mins.

I can't really help with the AC thing... haven't had that experience yet.
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      01-23-2025, 02:05 PM   #8
gtf28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakystyly View Post
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1498351 Yours may be different, it was just an obvious thing suggestion that sometimes people overlook. (#3) in the diagram.

I've had damage to my low pressure side radiator last year. It was winter so I didn't think to test to see if the AC worked. But my intake charge air temperatures climbed after driving for 10-15 mins.

I can't really help with the AC thing... haven't had that experience yet.
Thank for the post and yes I had no idea how that actually worked, (#3)
back in my E92 335i.

If there was damage to the radiator would the coolant level on the low pressure
drop?

I have ordered a Carly device should get it next week and I will have a look
and see what live data I can read. Thank you for the suggestion.
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      01-23-2025, 02:37 PM   #9
freakystyly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtf28 View Post
If there was damage to the radiator would the coolant level on the low pressure
drop?
In my case, I hit a block of ice that was tall enough to damage my center front radiator. It would not hold coolant so it was an obvious problem, big puddle on the floor. There was no check engine light or warning but there was a "dry running pump" code. The front center radiator is actually low pressure side and the one behind it is for the main engine. There's a lot of radiators on these cars, even more on M2s!

Check for codes when you get your Carly set up. Maybe the low pressure system pump is bad?
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      01-23-2025, 04:39 PM   #10
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Has no one thought to inspect and test the A/C evaporator?
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      01-23-2025, 07:53 PM   #11
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Who's "THEY"?

Shotgunning parts at a problem is not a competent repair tech... It's not how it's done!

Anyways, sometimes, a dealer, isn't a bad deal. My old E46 got it's AC fixed for a flat rate, regardless of what was needed to get the AC working! Was a great deal!

Sorry not to help much, I know it's painful but you got taken to the cleaners!
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      01-24-2025, 02:58 AM   #12
gtf28
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UPDATE:

So the Tech at the dealership confirmed that there are 2 voltage lines on the compressor, a 12v and another line, on my car the 12v reads fine but the other line reads 9v and if I understand him correctly it jumps up 12v.

They reprogrammed the car using ISPA or INPA but unable to get this working. Their technical documents does not clearly indicate if the second line should be 12v or 9v. They currently awaiting feedback from BMW Technical support.

They have check all the grounds and tested fuses and relays all checks out. They tested using another cars A/C wiring and tested the A/C pump on another car all checks out except on my car.

I asked the tech about the overfilled low pressure coolant system and he mentioned that they will test this and let me know.
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