[///maddening]

Hey Selmeralto!

A few posts ago, you mentioned the possibility of using a BMW connector kit ($10 or so) to aid installation of the JLs in the back. I've just bought everything tonight, except for that - can you shed some light on what that is and where to get it?

Thanks!!

[selmeralto]

Hi Maddening,

If you search for

"BMW OEM Speaker Connector Harness Pigtail"

you should be able to pick it up.

I think $10 + shipping gets you a pair. You can write to the vendor to confirm. Check for polarity when you install them.

[Grentz]

Originally Posted by ///maddening

Hey Selmeralto!

A few posts ago, you mentioned the possibility of using a BMW connector kit ($10 or so) to aid installation of the JLs in the back. I've just bought everything tonight, except for that - can you shed some light on what that is and where to get it?

Thanks!!

They are like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-OEM-Spea...-/161420349903

Essentially bare wire on one side to go to the new speakers and the OEM BMW connector on the other to connect up where the old speakers were. This lets you retrofit without cutting the original wires in the car.

[Robimplicit]

Received the Eton B100W speakers today and plan to install soon.
While I have the door interior cover off I thought I would do a bit of sound proofing. I plan to surround the inner side of the speaker hole and the inner of the outer door metal with this stuff – Henry Blueskin WB (http://www.amazon.com/Henry-BH200WB4...ilpage_o01_s00

This link, http://www.hardwareandtools.com/henr...lcfa-5931.html , states ” Impermeable to air, moisture vapor, and water. Peel and stick application; no flame required. Factory controlled 9mm thickness. Self-sealing when punctured. From a published spec sheet, it is designed to operate from -22 F to 158 F.

I have read reports of others using it for auto door soundproofing who say that it works well to reduce road noise, is easy to use, and doesn’t have an odor. Does this seem reasonable? Any reason not to use it?

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by Robimplicit

Received the Eton B100W speakers today and plan to install soon.
While I have the door interior cover off I thought I would do a bit of sound proofing. I plan to surround the inner side of the speaker hole and the inner of the outer door metal with this stuff – Henry Blueskin WB (http://www.amazon.com/Henry-BH200WB4...ilpage_o01_s00

This link, http://www.hardwareandtools.com/henr...lcfa-5931.html , states ” Impermeable to air, moisture vapor, and water. Peel and stick application; no flame required. Factory controlled 9mm thickness. Self-sealing when punctured. From a published spec sheet, it is designed to operate from -22 F to 158 F.

I have read reports of others using it for auto door soundproofing who say that it works well to reduce road noise, is easy to use, and doesn’t have an odor. Does this seem reasonable? Any reason not to use it?

You might want to rethink this and go with dedicated soundproofing. The Blueskin label talks about its sealant properties but the name of the game with sound proofing is to remove resonant vibration. Soundproofing such as Dynamat consists of a thick aluminum layer under which is a very thick coating of some sort of tar or polymer compound specifically designed to quiet and stop vibration. The Blueskin looks awfully thin to me and I doubt that it would do the job or at least give you the kind of deadening that a product such as Dynamat would provide.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

You might want to rethink this and go with dedicated soundproofing. The Blueskin label talks about its sealant properties but the name of the game with sound proofing is to remove resonant vibration. Soundproofing such as Dynamat consists of a think aluminum layer under which is a very thick coating of some sort of tar or polymer compound specifically designed to quiet and stop vibration. The Blueskin looks awfully thin to me and I doubt that it would do the job or at least give you the kind of deadening that a product such as Dynamat would provide.

Dynamat (or equivalent products from other makers) is what to go with. It's heavy and goopy for a reason, and the smell fades quickly. Be sure to use a tool (a screwdriver handle works great) to smooth it around edges; the aluminum will slice right through your skin. Ask me how I know ...

[selmeralto]

Yes, and Dynamat comes in different grades, depending on the thickness of the goop. You're only going to do this once, so I'd recommend Dynamat Extreme. Viffermike is right about the aluminum. Be careful. Also, be sure to put cardboard under the Dynamat as you cut it so you don't slice into anything under it. A screwdriver handle works well, as does a roller, to press the stuff on.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by Robimplicit

Received the Eton B100W speakers today and plan to install soon.
While I have the door interior cover off I thought I would do a bit of sound proofing. I plan to surround the inner side of the speaker hole and the inner of the outer door metal with this stuff – Henry Blueskin WB (http://www.amazon.com/Henry-BH200WB4...ilpage_o01_s00



This link, http://www.hardwareandtools.com/henr...lcfa-5931.html , states ” Impermeable to air, moisture vapor, and water. Peel and stick application; no flame required. Factory controlled 9mm thickness. Self-sealing when punctured. From a published spec sheet, it is designed to operate from -22 F to 158 F.

I have read reports of others using it for auto door soundproofing who say that it works well to reduce road noise, is easy to use, and doesn’t have an odor. Does this seem reasonable? Any reason not to use it?

I've always been one to experiment with alternative products primarily as a means to have fun with the install and maybe end up saving others money. I've tried stuff like this. It's not the same and you won't be happy with the results.

Shortly after I used this type of stuff I ended up having to take everything apart and install dynamat. I anticipated this, so I didn't mind the extra time and cost. As I said, I like to have fun with my installs.

If you decide to go this route be sure to wear some sort of work gloves. The aluminum will slice you in a heartbeat.

[Xenny]

a tennis ball also works well to make sure the dynamat is adhered well. glides easily over the aluminum and conforms nicely to any valleys/ridges.

[selmeralto]

To cut the Dynamat to proper shapes and sizes you can use a utility knife. Make sure the blade is sharp and never cut in the direction of a finger or leg or any other body part you'd prefer to keep.

[BentZero]

i think I've decided on these speakers. kinda worried that it's overkill though.

CDT AUDIO HD-42 HIGH DEFINITION Model 4" 2-Way Component System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00067MR3A..._PTosxbEMWK88B

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by BentZero

i think I've decided on these speakers. kinda worried that it's overkill though.

CDT AUDIO HD-42 HIGH DEFINITION Model 4" 2-Way Component System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00067MR3A..._PTosxbEMWK88B

This is for the Hi-Fi system, yes?

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

This is for the Hi-Fi system, yes?

Yes, but I plan in replacing the amp with a JL 600/6. Looking a bit closer at the specs though and it seems that these speakers may require more power.

[selmeralto]

Yes, well I was wondering whether for the Hi-Fi system you'd have to consider an adapter so the speakers will fit. But perhaps the mounts for the Hi-Fi system differ from the HK system.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Yes, well I was wondering whether for the Hi-Fi system you'd have to consider an adapter so the speakers will fit. But perhaps the mounts for the Hi-Fi system differ from the HK system.

It'll likely call for spacers.

[selmeralto]

I've finally had a chance to Dynamat the trunk area. Here are a few photos.

Right wheel well before:



Right wheel well after:



Right side before:



Right side after:



Left side after:



I also did the rear wall (the license plate wall) after I took the pictures and areas around the battery and other trunk components.

It's not a thing of beauty but no one will complain because everything is hidden by the trunk liner.

In addition I put some Dynamat on the struts under the rear speaker shelf. You can't see that soundproofing standing at the back of the car looking in the trunk, nor can you see anything looking back into the trunk from the cabin with the seats folded down. If you climb into the trunk, however, and look up you can see that bit of Dynamatting. My thought is that anyone who wants to climb into my trunk and notices the soundproofing is welcome to the view.

My general principle was, Dynamat any metal you can see. This is probably overkill but it's a pain to take out the trunk lining so I erred on the side of Dynamat. That said, you don't have to cover every square inch with soundproofing. I think I got somewhere around 90% of each panel I Dynamatted. That's close enough for jazz.

The car is a lot quieter. The trunk Dynamatting is not a mod for anyone who wants to hear the full throated sound of the exhaust. It is a good thing to do if you're after as much silence as you can create so you can hear the music.

The bass is tighter and cleaner. I'd like to think that's because I've cut down the resonant vibration of the metal in the car and reduced exhaust and road noise. But it could also be my hopes and dreams after spending 3 hours doing this job, just before the rains came.

This is the last step in my efforts to create high quality sound for the car by doing speaker swaps and reducing noise.

I have been tracking what people have been saying about under seat woofer replacement but from what I can tell the only way to get an improvement there is to add a third party amp which, especially after you spring for $500 for the woofers, is not only expensive but may only make a marginal difference in sound at the lower end and might result in problems when the dealer flashes the car. I'm happy with the sound as is.

See also Post #148, below.

[Rock Sweden]

I have read this entire thread and have to wonder if other 4" component sets would work & sound better. It seems there is 2" of speaker depth. I realize the screw pattern may not match up, bypassing/ adapting the plug, but other than that is there anything else I should know?

[Rock Sweden]

Originally Posted by Rock Sweden

I have read this entire thread and have to wonder if other 4" component sets would work & sound better. It seems there is 2" of speaker depth. I realize the screw pattern may not match up, bypassing/ adapting the plug, but other than that is there anything else I should know?

Ok, so I did some digging and almost nobody makes 4" comp sets anymore. Those that do are fairly expensive $500+/-. BTW, W(who)TF pays $500 for RF 4" comps?

[selmeralto]

And finally, a point that Solarphil has made in another thread but that bears repeating here.

Watch the color coding of the wiring on the rear speakers.

BMW positioning of the wires is not consistent, left to right. It can be confusing if you're using the E-bay pigtail. If you don't get the polarity right one rear speaker will be out of phase with the system which will reduce the bass response, interfere with the the smoothness of the spectrum, and muddy up the soundstage. Here is Solarphil's memorable visual aid.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by Rock Sweden

Ok, so I did some digging and almost nobody makes 4" comp sets anymore. Those that do are fairly expensive $500+/-. BTW, W(who)TF pays $500 for RF 4" comps?

CDT makes some for $300 and $400. Eton's set is $230.

[djarchow]

Originally Posted by Rock Sweden

Ok, so I did some digging and almost nobody makes 4" comp sets anymore. Those that do are fairly expensive $500+/-. BTW, W(who)TF pays $500 for RF 4" comps?

There are a number of brands designed for our cars in addition to the Eton already mentioned. Audio System, Gladen, Focal, Jehnert, Helix/Match, Rainbow, etc. Most are available from Europe.

Here are some reviews of some of them including the Eton. They are in German but Google Translate will give you the general idea. Be sure to click on the "Show Full Review" link at the bottom to see actual t/s measurements of the woofers as well as detailed ratings on a number of areas:

http://www.hifitest.de/test/vergleichstest/seite1_8457

http://www.hifitest.de/test/car-hifi...83c-bmw2_12019

http://www.hifitest.de/test/vergleichstest/seite1_11856

[DanATL]

very true, I had dozens of tiny cuts on my fingertips after using my fingers as a smoothing tool.