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      04-07-2016, 10:49 AM   #89
Zooks527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opfreak View Post
Thanks for your help. I found the V2 file in your other post last night.

so switched to that, couldnt stand the flat profile that was loaded when I first plugged in the V3 software and said ok to update the amp.
Yeah, I'm not sure why the manufacturer's V3 files are coming up flat on a current download. Have you tried sending Nelson an email?
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      04-07-2016, 11:40 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooks527 View Post
Yeah, I'm not sure why the manufacturer's V3 files are coming up flat on a current download. Have you tried sending Nelson an email?
I'll look into it
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      05-14-2016, 04:33 AM   #91
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Any update on this? It seems alot of the V2 files are flat with the V3 software.
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      05-14-2016, 04:47 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuctifeyeno View Post
Any update on this? It seems alot of the V2 files are flat with the V3 software.
I thought you had to use the software matching the version of the files you have (i.e.: V2 with V2 files, V3 with V3 files). Both versions were available the last time I looked (granted, a month or so ago).
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      05-14-2016, 05:33 AM   #93
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Hmm, didn't know that but makes sense. Definitely a PITA to switch back and forth between versions for other files since it recommends a full uninstall of the previous versions.
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      05-15-2016, 09:43 PM   #94
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If you load a config file and it is blank, reload the same file and it then looks OK. There are some other weird things too. For example, in the HK file, the center channel speaker is supposed to have a 2nd order high pass filter enabled, but the graph didn't reflect that. I had to change the filter type to a different type (for example Bessel) and then back to butterworth for it to show correctly in the graph.

Also at least once the entries in the IO screen were messed up. Reloaded the same file again and they were fine.
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      05-17-2016, 08:54 PM   #95
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Here is something to be aware of. I posted this in another thread related to another problem I was having but this seems to be a better place for people to see it.

After loading a new tune last night I noticed on the way to work today that my amp kept cutting out every now and then. It seemed random. My park distance control beeping was also weird and inconsistent.

Tonight when I left work I stepped on the brake to put the car in gear and the amp cut out. Turning on the headlights does the same thing. This was the same problem that was causing the beeping for PDC to be inconsistent; I was applying the brakes while backing up and the amp cut out.

There must be some low level electrical noise when hitting the brakes or turning on the head lights and the software in the amp thinks I want to switch to the AUX inputs which mutes the main inputs. I tried fixing it by going into the DCM tab in the software and switching the AUX channels from auto-detection to manual but then I got no sound at all even though I am not using the AUX inputs. I fixed it by setting the signal detection level to 0db and this seemed to stop the problem.

The values for the auto detection were the default values for the HK tune posted here on the forum and others may have the same issue. If I hadn't noticed the cutout coinciding with pressing the brakes I was going to tear the trunk apart again and look loose connections.
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      09-06-2016, 02:14 PM   #96
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Add a Rear Sub?

Has anyone been successful in adding a rear powered sub woofer using the amp's audio outs and attaching it to the trunk battery? Is there settings neeed in the software to utilize the RCA out?

~Mike
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      10-03-2016, 12:52 PM   #97
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Amp Mounting

I finally got around to fitting my amp last week, and I wanted to ask if anyone else had a problem refitting the whole assembly back in the space. This is on an F22 (2016 228i).

After much cursing and failing and e-mails to Bimmertech, I finally managed to get it to fit but only by temporarily unclipping and pushing out the plastic air-vent that's on the inner fender wall above where the amp goes, taking care to hang onto it so it doesn't drop out into the wheel arch. This gave the space needed to move the outer rear corner of the assembly to the left enough for it to drop down on the bolt. Once the assembly was all the way down, the air-vent frame could be pulled back in, although the corner of the amp is wedged under it pretty hard. I am a little concerned that vibration could cause the vent to pop out.




Did anyone else have this problem? In Zooks527 's pictures, it doesn't look like his amp is as far under the vent frame as mine. My mounting plate is definitely all the way onto the frame so that the amp is as far to the car's right as it needs to be.

I have been talking to Bimmertech about the problem, floating the idea that they modify the F22 mounting plate to rotate the amp counter-clockwise a bit so that it's more aligned with the fender wall than with the centre line of the car. The problem is the raised part of the bracket on the inboard side (right over the USB socket) which limits how far the amp can go to the right.
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      10-05-2016, 10:47 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simoneves View Post
I finally got around to fitting my amp last week, and I wanted to ask if anyone else had a problem refitting the whole assembly back in the space.
Nobody?
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      10-06-2016, 07:17 AM   #99
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Difficult to see what's going on because the pictures are huge.
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Last edited by chemh0ser; 10-06-2016 at 07:17 AM.. Reason: spelling
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      10-06-2016, 04:37 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simoneves View Post
Nobody?
Zoom out and give us a good orientation on the photo.

Bimmertech amp looks smaller than my JL 600/6 and I was able to fit that in horizontally. I would try rotating it? I've got mine with the long ends sitting towards the front/rear.

Lay it down on top of the steel frame that mounts to the old amp and ASD module.

I used some super long zip ties to secure it to the frame. Little crooked for me since I didn't want to dremel off the lip that secures the old amp for reversibility's sake.

Edit: Looks like that lip might prevent you from rotating. Could chop that off if you don't care about reversing it or bend it down some.
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      10-06-2016, 07:58 PM   #101
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OK, sorry for the huge photos. The point I'm trying to make is that the specified mounting mechanism puts the corner of the amp hard under that plastic grill, which I'm worried is wrong, and going to cause a problem due to vibration. I'm just asking if anyone who has fitted the same amp the same way had the same problem or if mine is somehow in the wrong position, although I can't imagine how. I have no doubt that the problem could be avoided by rotating the amp on the mount but that would require Bimmertech to change the design of the provided mounting plate.
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      10-07-2016, 01:53 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simoneves View Post
OK, sorry for the huge photos. The point I'm trying to make is that the specified mounting mechanism puts the corner of the amp hard under that plastic grill, which I'm worried is wrong, and going to cause a problem due to vibration. I'm just asking if anyone who has fitted the same amp the same way had the same problem or if mine is somehow in the wrong position, although I can't imagine how. I have no doubt that the problem could be avoided by rotating the amp on the mount but that would require Bimmertech to change the design of the provided mounting plate.
Oh! That makes more sense.

Well, I'm not sure since my amp doesn't utilize a mount to connect to the stock amp mount.

I mean as long as it's not moving around/rubbing and the amp corner isn't hot touching the plastic, you should be fine.
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      10-07-2016, 10:49 AM   #103
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It is touching the plastic. It's wedged hard under there. I had to push down on the amp to get the plastic frame to pop back in.
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      10-10-2016, 10:44 PM   #104
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For those with HK

Do you need something like a mObridge when replacing the OEM HK amp? To deal with the MOST bus...
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      10-11-2016, 04:26 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketBoots View Post
Do you need something like a mObridge when replacing the OEM HK amp? To deal with the MOST bus...
Nope.

Unlike higher series, the HK system in the 2-series lacks many of the "typical" HK features (the equalizer is the most obvious). I also believe it's a fully analog system. As such, a simple harness included with the amp) is all that is necessary to connect the Bimmertech amp to the system.
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Last edited by Zooks527; 10-11-2016 at 09:56 AM..
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      11-12-2016, 02:32 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djarchow View Post
Here is something to be aware of. I posted this in another thread related to another problem I was having but this seems to be a better place for people to see it.

After loading a new tune last night I noticed on the way to work today that my amp kept cutting out every now and then. It seemed random. My park distance control beeping was also weird and inconsistent.

Tonight when I left work I stepped on the brake to put the car in gear and the amp cut out. Turning on the headlights does the same thing. This was the same problem that was causing the beeping for PDC to be inconsistent; I was applying the brakes while backing up and the amp cut out.

There must be some low level electrical noise when hitting the brakes or turning on the head lights and the software in the amp thinks I want to switch to the AUX inputs which mutes the main inputs. I tried fixing it by going into the DCM tab in the software and switching the AUX channels from auto-detection to manual but then I got no sound at all even though I am not using the AUX inputs. I fixed it by setting the signal detection level to 0db and this seemed to stop the problem.

The values for the auto detection were the default values for the HK tune posted here on the forum and others may have the same issue. If I hadn't noticed the cutout coinciding with pressing the brakes I was going to tear the trunk apart again and look loose connections.
Hi, Curious to hear if the problems is still continuing or if you found a work around. Any more info on how bad/frequent it is? I was interested in the amp, but this gives me pause. Do you regret your purchase? Thanks in advance!
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      08-31-2017, 06:53 AM   #107
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hi everyone

is it necessary to disconnect the battery when installing the bimmertech amp?
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      08-31-2017, 10:46 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devil84 View Post
hi everyone

is it necessary to disconnect the battery when installing the bimmertech amp?
I never did, and all was fine.
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      03-17-2019, 06:05 PM   #109
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If anyone is using this guide as a reference in the future.
A couple of notes. Most of the tuning files from BimmerTech do not work well. Best to contact support and get their help.
I installed the PP86DSP I did not reverse the direction of the amp. The reason is that when you take your car in for service the software for the headunit can not happen because of the Canbus system. Canbus will not see an amp. For this reason you need to reinstall your old original amp before the service. With the unit facing the other direction you do not have enough cable to grab it without removing the liner. So every time you take your car in for service you have to remove the liner! :-( With the correct orientation you can put you hand under the liner and disconnect the cable and plug in the old amp....yes the amp will be sitting on the back deck but no one will car the upgrade will work. BTW BMW will charge if your car fails and you have to return it for the update. You never know when they will do it....
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