[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Vyruz Reaper

Also - does adding an external amp have the potential to screw with the car and it not starting/throwing codes etc if I take it to the dealer and they flash software updates?

First, the amp: It puts out 125 WPC RMS on channels 1-4 and 175 WPC RMS on channels 5-6. Clearly, channels 5-6 are meant for bass drivers. I'd worry far, far more about blowing your "regular" drivers than the underseat ones. That amp is a good one to use as long as you are judicious with volume and select drivers that are relatively low in efficiency. You will potentially get yourself in a lot less trouble by following that advice.

Now, about throwing codes: do not worry about that at all. No one's had that issue directly.

[Vyruz Reaper]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

First, the amp: It puts out 125 WPC RMS on channels 1-4 and 175 WPC RMS on channels 5-6. Clearly, channels 5-6 are meant for bass drivers. I'd worry far, far more about blowing your "regular" drivers than the underseat ones. That amp is a good one to use as long as you are judicious with volume and select drivers that are relatively low in efficiency. You will potentially get yourself in a lot less trouble by following that advice.

Now, about throwing codes: do not worry about that at all. No one's had that issue directly.

Thanks!

I have the Eton and JL speakers already installed. Stock HK woofers under the seats.

Would I be at risk blowing up those speakers with that amp?

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Vyruz Reaper

Thanks!

I have the Eton and JL speakers already installed. Stock HK woofers under the seats.

Would I be at risk blowing up those speakers with that amp?

Yes. You'll be at risk of blowing any speaker that can't handle the RMS power of that amp. I would strongly encourage you to have that amp tuned by a professional to minimize that possibility.

But if you don't ... just be careful with volume and you'll be fine.

[Vyruz Reaper]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

Yes. You'll be at risk of blowing any speaker that can't handle the RMS power of that amp. I would strongly encourage you to have that amp tuned by a professional to minimize that possibility.

But if you don't ... just be careful with volume and you'll be fine.

Last question,

Would I be prone to drivers blowing using the JL amp too? I suspect there will always be risk, but trying to see how to minimize risk involved of blowing speakers.

What RMS/specs would you advise seeking in channels 1-4 and 5-6 for an amp assuming one has the eton and JL speakers

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Vyruz Reaper

Last question,

Would I be prone to drivers blowing using the JL amp too? I suspect there will always be risk, but trying to see how to minimize risk involved of blowing speakers.

What RMS/specs would you advise seeking in channels 1-4 and 5-6 for an amp assuming one has the eton and JL speakers

OK, this is really easy, man.

You need to find out the RMS/Peak power handling of your JL Audio and Eton speakers. If the amp you run exceeds the speakers' power ratings, there is a danger. If it doesn't, there (probably) isn't. (Please don't as me to explain the 'probably'. Just don't sweat it.)

It really is as simple as that. Please find out the speakers' specs on your own and compare.

[Vyruz Reaper]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

OK, this is really easy, man.

You need to find out the RMS/Peak power handling of your JL Audio and Eton speakers. If the amp you run exceeds the speakers' power ratings, there is a danger. If it doesn't, there (probably) isn't. (Please don't as me to explain the 'probably'. Just don't sweat it.)

It really is as simple as that. Please find out the speakers' specs on your own and compare.

Ok great! Just was wondering if there was anything besides RMS/peak power I should be considering.

Is that's the only category, then as you stated, should be easy ðŸ˜

I'll report back when I get the specs and depending on how much research I do, possibly post suitable amps to use.

[Vyruz Reaper]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

OK, this is really easy, man.

You need to find out the RMS/Peak power handling of your JL Audio and Eton speakers. If the amp you run exceeds the speakers' power ratings, there is a danger. If it doesn't, there (probably) isn't. (Please don't as me to explain the 'probably'. Just don't sweat it.)

It really is as simple as that. Please find out the speakers' specs on your own and compare.

So it looks like the peak power of both the Etons and JL speakers are 105/100 for the pair respectively, or about 50 RMS (watts) each.

The amp is overkill at 125 watts per channel. Lol. Gonna see if I can cap watts used.

I can't seem to find the peak watts on the under seats HK woofers. Any know? Tho it looks like that are 8 ohms...

Do I have to also worry about ohms and impedance for my etons and JLs? Seems they are both 4 ohms but don't know what that means when choosing and amp.

[Vyruz Reaper]

One last thought. I found a sound digital 4 channel amp with 75 watts per channel that seems great for what I'm looking for but it's only 4 channels.

Can I use the new 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers and then keep the stock amp to power my subs?

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Vyruz Reaper

One last thought. I found a sound digital 4 channel amp with 75 watts per channel that seems great for what I'm looking for but it's only 4 channels.

Can I use the new 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers and then keep the stock amp to power my subs?

Your underseat drivers are either 4 ohm or 2 ohm each. There are several threads that address this in this subforum. That said, no one knows how much power they can handle, but I figure it's probably around 125 WPC peak.

I would not power them with the OEM amp. The underseats need more power than the other drivers, not less. You'd be better served running the rear speakers off the OEM amp rather than the underseats -- but personally, I'd run that six-channel amp and just watch the volume. Better to have too much power than not enough.

At this point, I would strongly encourage you to do some research on basic audio system building. You're asking questions that are very, very basic, and that are mostly answered elsewhere in this subforum.

[jase2addict]

I'm looking at a mosconi One 60.8 dsp right now. I can't determine if this practical amp works with balanced differential outputs also would you guys consider this amp overkill? Thanks.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by jase2addict

I'm looking at a mosconi One 60.8 dsp right now. I can't determine if this practical amp works with balanced differential outputs also would you guys consider this amp overkill? Thanks.

I would personally consider any Mosconi overkill unless you're upgrading all speakers, adding a DSP, and having that DSP professionally tuned.

That's basically like using a $5k Bryston 4B-STCubed to drive a pair of Realistic bookshelf speakers with programming run through a JVC receiver.

[jase2addict]

Mike that is my plan. In the front I want Focal ES 100K2 in the front and I would relocate my Focal IFBMW-S to the rear deck with some slight mods. Would that Mosconi 60.8 amp/dsp be up to this? I like this amp because it has a dsp built in. Does this set up get the Mike seal of approval? The only reason I am considering this is I met a really good tuner out of this who can dial my system in. He is an authorized dealer for focal and mosconi. I know the install is as important as the gear. Just looking to price things out to see if its worth doing I heard some of the cars powered by Mosconi and k2 focal and it was amazing. It made all those audiophile buzz words mean something. Would love to have that experience in my car.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by jase2addict

I'm looking at a mosconi One 60.8 dsp right now. I can't determine if this practical amp works with balanced differential outputs also would you guys consider this amp overkill? Thanks.

I would personally pair a One 70.6 amplifier with a DSP 4to6 processor for the following reasons:
- You don't need 8 channels of amplification
- The HU only has four line-level outputs, which is a good match for the 4to6
- It will be less expensive by a couple hundred dollars
- The 70.6 is slightly more powerful per channel
- If one unit doesn't work well, you can replace it with something else instead of having to replace the whole shebang
- You have more mounting options because the units are each smaller than the 60.8

FYI: Everything Mosconi makes works with differential balanced inputs. My only concern would be input voltage to the DSP unit, but that can be alleviated fairly easily either with the DSP unit itself or with a booster unit.

You pretty much can't go wrong with a Focal/Mosconi setup, especially if its professionally installed. Do it.

[jase2addict]

Its going to cheaper for me to purchase the gear on my own and let the guy install it. I have gift cards and coupons at certain sites. There are two different 4to6's one is SP-DIF. Which one is best for this car? Do you recommend that slick looking remote?

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by jase2addict

Its going to cheaper for me to purchase the gear on my own and let the guy install it. I have gift cards and coupons at certain sites. There are two different 4to6's one is SP-DIF. Which one is best for this car? Do you recommend that slick looking remote?

The SPDIF version is for digital systems; the 2 Series stereo is all analog. Get the regular, non-SP-DIF one.

Regarding your PM about what Gladen said: It plainly is not familiar with the 2 Series. I'll repeat: All 2 Series audio systems are analog. There is no digital signal transfer, no fiber optics, no MOST box, etc. You do not need to worry about that at all with the audio in our cars.

[jase2addict]

Good morning Mike. Will do. Can I add a sub to this set up without adding another amp? Or the better questions is should I run a sub with this set up. I was looking at running one focal e25kx. Open to suggestions though. I would rather have a focal sub and disconnect the underseat subs.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by jase2addict

Good morning Mike. Will do. Can I add a sub to this set up without adding another amp? Or the better questions is should I run a sub with this set up. I was looking at running one focal e25kx. Open to suggestions though. I would rather have a focal sub and disconnect the underseat subs.

I would not recommend disconnecting the underseat drivers because they not only supply bass, they also supply mid-bass. No matter how good they are, 4" drivers aren't going to be able to handle frequencies below 150-200Hz efficiently.

You need those underseats. Focal makes a drop-in replacement for them; so does Rockford Fosgate and several other manufacturers.

I would upgrade the underseats with the setup you're planning and asses the system at that point. Then, and only then, would I think about adding a dedicated sub. You need to know if what you have planned now is enough; the only way to know that is to use your own ears after the install. Why spend money on something you don't need?

[knoteasy25]

Any links for the focal or Rockford fosgate drop in subs and can they work with oem amp or do they need more power to shine.

[jase2addict]

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/c...v2#performance

Here is some info on the focals. I'm leaning towards these over the ghosts. Everything I've heard from Focal has been impressive. I read a post from Technics where he states you can not run them with the HK amp. It will cause overheating and damage the amp. I've wanted these when I got my IFBMW-S but did not want to commit to new amp at the time.

[jase2addict]

I'm having Jamey Rawlings take care of the installation. He is a legend in the Los Angeles area. I dropped the car off on Monday, will pick up later this week. Here are a few pics.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by jase2addict

Sorry guys I missed up the upload. How do I embed the pics so they don't have to be clicked?

You need to host them somewhere that can be linked to via a URL -- Flickr, Photobucket, etc. -- then use the HTML commands in the editing menu to link to each individual image. When setting that up, be mindful of image size; I always reduce mine to about 750 px wide so they fit nicely in a thread on a standard browser window.

[jase2addict]

Thanks Mike. Here are some more. The build should be done by this Friday.