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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics N20 (228i) / B46 (230i) Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Tuning 228i Tuners

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      06-29-2014, 02:17 PM   #23
BuckSM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G228msport View Post
Well the engine is severely monitored. Even with the piggyback, I believe if the engine sees something it doesn't like. It will shut down or take measures to protect itself. Just as if the piggyback wasn't there. I'm almost positive the jb does nothing to prevent the engine from doing it's normal checks. That's what makes it so great. This is true with jb stage 1. (Like I have) Stage two is a little more involved and yes, I would admit theres probably a greater risk of damage since you're potentially using more boost and a different fuel.

I don't have a downpipe installed so I can't help you with that. But if you get the stage two jb, from my research you can clear CELs. Thats a big positive to go stage two rather than stage one.
Thanks for the info! Let me know if you ever install a down pipe!
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      07-01-2014, 05:25 PM   #24
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So i got my tuner today, unfortunately my dumb a** cant get the thing installed. I got the first 2 patches connected but i cannot get the MAF senson (purple patch) to disconnect for the life of me. Any suggestions? Also is the blue sensor the one that does not need to be connected?
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      07-01-2014, 05:33 PM   #25
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My apology for being nosy. But I got bored at work.
@G228msport, I heard that Shelly BMW pretty cool about mods car.
I always bring my F10 528i and F15 35i to New Century BMW.
Both car running JB4 and to answer @nalinax question, I do have catless downpipe on my F10 and the JB4 clear the CEL.
I was running Stage 1 on my F10 until I had a downpipe which throws CEL.
When I was running Stage 1, I always uninstall it whenever I bring the car to the dealer since it was very easy. But since the Stage 2 is connected to the DME, it is a bit hard to take it off. Fortunately with the Stage 2, you can switch the map to map 0 and it becomes undetected.
As for the recorded MAX boost. How often do you drive your car with Max boost under normal condition? Unless if you redline the engine all the time, then yes, you will record the Max boost +3psi gain from the tune.
But, as G228msport mentioned, they will not look into your engine log for your AC problem, because it is not relevant.
Piggyback is actually the safest and most reliable tune, because you are still relying on the stock ECU for the failsafe. Unlike the flashed tune, a mistake on the tune, it will fry the whole car and will most likely voiding the warranty (unless if you go with DINAN, which is overrated). Also, with piggyback, once you are done with it, you can always resell it or use it on another car with the same motor.
For the installation, on the N20 tunes, that are 4 pairs of connector and 4 cables. On the Stage 1, you only use the brown cable connector pair, the rainbow color connector pair, and the purple cable connector pair. The blue cable connector pair is only used if you have the pneumatic boost solenoid.
While on the Stage 2, you don't use the purple cable connector pair and same scenario on the blue cable connector pair. Then you have to connect the red wire to the positive and black to the ground. The rest of the 2 wires (green and brown) need to be connected to the CAN system.
I hope I can help fellow members to answer some of the questions.
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      07-01-2014, 05:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33 View Post
My apology for being nosy. But I got bored at work.
@G228msport, I heard that Shelly BMW pretty cool about mods car.
I always bring my F10 528i and F15 35i to New Century BMW.
Both car running JB4 and to answer @nalinax question, I do have catless downpipe on my F10 and the JB4 clear the CEL.
I was running Stage 1 on my F10 until I had a downpipe which throws CEL.
When I was running Stage 1, I always uninstall it whenever I bring the car to the dealer since it was very easy. But since the Stage 2 is connected to the DME, it is a bit hard to take it off. Fortunately with the Stage 2, you can switch the map to map 0 and it becomes undetected.
As for the recorded MAX boost. How often do you drive your car with Max boost under normal condition? Unless if you redline the engine all the time, then yes, you will record the Max boost +3psi gain from the tune.
But, as G228msport mentioned, they will not look into your engine log for your AC problem, because it is not relevant.
Piggyback is actually the safest and most reliable tune, because you are still relying on the stock ECU for the failsafe. Unlike the flashed tune, a mistake on the tune, it will fry the whole car and will most likely voiding the warranty (unless if you go with DINAN, which is overrated). Also, with piggyback, once you are done with it, you can always resell it or use it on another car with the same motor.
For the installation, on the N20 tunes, that are 4 pairs of connector and 4 cables. On the Stage 1, you only use the brown cable connector pair, the rainbow color connector pair, and the purple cable connector pair. The blue cable connector pair is only used if you have the pneumatic boost solenoid.
While on the Stage 2, you don't use the purple cable connector pair and same scenario on the blue cable connector pair. Then you have to connect the red wire to the positive and black to the ground. The rest of the 2 wires (green and brown) need to be connected to the CAN system.
I hope I can help fellow members to answer some of the questions.
Since you seem fairly knowledgable. How do i get the MAF sensor disconnected??
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      07-01-2014, 05:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancolucci View Post
Since you seem fairly knowledgable. How do i get the MAF sensor disconnected??
BMW connectors are PITA now days. Seems like they are trying to saves pennies. What I always do, instead of pressing the tap, I use a pick or small flat screwdriver to lift the clip from the other end. Fingernail is best, since you can lift while holding the connector and pull up at the same time.
I sell BMS products and install quite a few, so just sharing the experience.
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      07-01-2014, 06:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33 View Post
BMW connectors are PITA now days. Seems like they are trying to saves pennies. What I always do, instead of pressing the tap, I use a pick or small flat screwdriver to lift the clip from the other end. Fingernail is best, since you can lift while holding the connector and pull up at the same time.
I sell BMS products and install quite a few, so just sharing the experience.
The sensor is just in an akward place to get to, the other ones were no problem. I finally managed to get it though. I'm not even sure what I did so I'm sure I will have to go through this pain again when its time for an oil change but until then Thanks for your reply I appreciate the help!
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      07-01-2014, 06:34 PM   #29
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No worries, glad to help.
Now go out and enjoy the car.
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      07-03-2014, 11:06 AM   #30
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I have another question!!!

For JB4, can it be a "stand alone" upgrade? Meaning do I need any other parts to upgrade if I choose to go with JB4?
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      07-03-2014, 05:59 PM   #31
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Awesome, thanks for the updates guys.

Enjoy your Fourth and safe driving
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      07-05-2014, 11:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nalinax View Post
I have another question!!!

For JB4, can it be a "stand alone" upgrade? Meaning do I need any other parts to upgrade if I choose to go with JB4?
It is "stand alone", but of course you can gain more with other mods, such as; catless downpipe, exhaust system, bigger intercooler, air intake (even though a lot of people saying that it didn't gives you any gain, but I believe gives you better air flow, better response), etc.
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