[besnik]

So I'm looking to get an M235 and this one I found for pretty cheap has 110k miles, very clean carfax and looks like it was taken care of, I know about the common issues on the N55 but there isn't much info about the N55's that are over 100k miles, should I be worried about the turbos or anything else? I have a backup to this car but it would be nice if I got this one for cheap and had no issues like I've heard about the N55 from 0-100k miles. I can post the link to the listing if anyone wants.

[Middy2000]

If it's been well maintained then I wouldn't bat an eyelid at taking on a car with that mileage. Chances are it'll have spent a lot of time cruising on highways at low revs so wouldn't have necessarily have had a hard life.

I bought my E46 330 with 104k on it and sold it 9 years later. The engine never missed a beat.

[chattanooga240]

With any car, age and mileage always increase risk.

There aren't any widespread issues that stick out specifically with these in my mind, but I'd have money set aside for usual car repairs.

[overcoil]

110K miles it should be very cheap.
Think about how many of the components are near the end of their life span.

[tlum235i]

Do you know if anything was recently replaced other than the normal maintenance items? I'm approaching 80k and will need to replace my shocks/struts soon, which isn't necessarily cheap; otherwise, I've had no major concerns and would imagine if it's clean and maintained, it should be a good buy. I plan on keeping mine for quite a while.

[Rayscott]

I own a X3 which has 108K miles on it. I have it serviced at a garage that only works on German vehicles. He's a friend and said that as long as I have it serviced as required by BMW it can go another 100K. I detail a lot of bimmers with well over 100K miles on them and they run well. I look at it this way. The money I save by not having a car payment covers almost any repairs I may need to have. The new X3 doesn't look much different than my 2012. I am now looking for a M235 and high mileage doesn't bother me as long as the vehicle is serviced with records available.

[Heitzer]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

110K miles it should be very cheap.
Think about how many of the components are near the end of their life span.

Mine has 110k now and had minor issues. I am planning to just keep it for another 100k. What are the components at the end of their life span? I would replace parts proactively if the will not make 200k.

Brakes and suspension are regular wear items, they have been updated when necessary. Anything costly in the engine bay like turbo, coolers?

[RoundelM3]

FYI, it only has one turbo. N55s are pretty reliable, and other than the charge pipe cracking where it attaches to the throttle body, it's pretty bulletproof, especially if it's been responsibly maintained.

[FCBuff]

Leaking oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket. Water pump, thermostat, belt, tensioner, pulley's
All fixable...but can expect all the above

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by Heitzer

Mine has 110k now and had minor issues. I am planning to just keep it for another 100k. What are the components at the end of their life span? I would replace parts proactively if the will not make 200k.

Brakes and suspension are regular wear items, they have been updated when necessary. Anything costly in the engine bay like turbo, coolers?

this list is from a book by David Solomon - he taught automotive computer diagnostics, was a very good auto technician.
He wrote the book 20 years ago.

And with a 235 all the radiators and turbos. sensors ABS and Crank Position. O2.

if your buying a high-mileage car I think this list is good for evaluating price.



Service or replace

Shocks or Struts 25,000-75,000 miles

suspension tie rods and ball joints. 50,000-150,000 miles

muffler and pipes 60,000-150,000 miles

belts and hoses 60,000-150,000 miles

radiator 100,000 -200,000 miles

water pump 100,000-175,000 miles

timing chain. 100,000-200,000

clutch 60,000- 150,000

cv joints 80,000-150,000

fuel injectors-pump. 100,000-200,000

[PDM5]

Maintenance is way more important than mileage in my book. 20k mile "garage queen" car that is floored as soon as the start button is pressed or a well maintained 100k one with mostly highway miles? 100k one 100 times out of 100. I've had multiple Bimmers with 150k plus miles and the upkeep/fixes were nothing insane and honestly, nothing was unexpected and only the parts were more expensive. I would expect (and have done!) similar repairs to the Domestic/Japanese cars I've owned.

[Lucky13]

I wouldn’t go by what a mechanic wrote 20 years ago. Cars last a lot longer now because of better quality control and design. The average age of cars on the road in the US is at an all time high of 12 years.

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by Lucky13

I wouldn’t go by what a mechanic wrote 20 years ago. Cars last a lot longer now because of better quality control and design. The average age of cars on the road in the US is at an all time high of 12 years.

It’s not about not buying it’s about the purchase price of a 100,000+ mile vehicle.

[Unicorn123]

Lots of great points here but it is a loaded question...

As many of you have, I have had cars that have had high mileage, as I tend to drive cars until the wheels fall off. This said, a car maintained to the Mike Miller lifetime maintenance schedule and warmed up properly before matting the loud petal should easily get to 250K without major issues.

My dreaded (the biggest POS in the world I have been told by multiple Porsche and BMW Owners) 2001 Audi B5 S4 was sold when I bought my M235 and was just shy of 300K. Original turbos, clutch, exhaust (except the flex joints). Engine never opened up. Ran like a dream to the day I sold it. Almost everything else was replaced at least once (most multiple times) as part of regular maintenance. Changed the oil at 5K intervals with full synthetic and never matted it until the oil temperature bumped off of 150F. Then I drove it like it was stolen. Great car. I bought the Audi off lease (used with 50K on it), as I did my M235.

I am taking the same maintenance approach with the M235.

The point here is if the car was well cared for and you can get the history on it, you can buy a high-mileage car with no fear. The key is finding the one that is "good". Most BMW owners are pretty fastidious about maintenance and care so this works in your favor. Remember the proverb “Der liebe Gott steckt im detail”. Give the car a good look and look at the little things and if you need it, get a German Car specialist to look it over. Also, if you think it is "not kosher", walk.

If you pull the trigger on buying without a mechanics review, be sure to take it to your trusted import indie and have them go through the car fully. It will be worth the expense. FWIW. Good luck.

[Rayscott]

Originally Posted by Unicorn123

Lots of great points here but it is a loaded question...

As many of you have, I have had cars that have had high mileage, as I tend to drive cars until the wheels fall off. This said, a car maintained to the Mike Miller lifetime maintenance schedule and warmed up properly before matting the loud petal should easily get to 250K without major issues.

My dreaded (the biggest POS in the world I have been told by multiple Porsche and BMW Owners) 2001 Audi B5 S4 was sold when I bought my M235 and was just shy of 300K. Original turbos, clutch, exhaust (except the flex joints). Engine never opened up. Ran like a dream to the day I sold it. Almost everything else was replaced at least once (most multiple times) as part of regular maintenance. Changed the oil at 5K intervals with full synthetic and never matted it until the oil temperature bumped off of 150F. Then I drove it like it was stolen. Great car. I bought the Audi off lease (used with 50K on it), as I did my M235.

I am taking the same maintenance approach with the M235.

The point here is if the car was well cared for and you can get the history on it, you can buy a high-mileage car with no fear. The key is finding the one that is "good". Most BMW owners are pretty fastidious about maintenance and care so this works in your favor. Remember the proverb “Der liebe Gott steckt im detail”. Give the car a good look and look at the little things and if you need it, get a German Car specialist to look it over. Also, if you think it is "not kosher", walk.

If you pull the trigger on buying without a mechanics review, be sure to take it to your trusted import indie and have them go through the car fully. It will be worth the expense. FWIW. Good luck.

I could not agree more. When I find my M235 the owner of the business that only works on German cars said bring it to me before you seal the deal.

[Lucky13]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

It’s not about not buying it’s about the purchase price of a 100,000+ mile vehicle.

No the OP never asked about price he asked about how long it would last after 100K miles and what repairs.

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by Lucky13

No the OP never asked about price he asked about how long it would last after 100K miles and what repairs.

I added in the fourth post on this thread, the idea of pricing.

Then the 7th post asked about components, and that when I reprinted the lifespan portion of the book/guide.


Myself, I actually like running cars for at least ten years maybe longer and keeping them in the best condition mechanically and appearance wise. Anyone can buy a new car but owning a 15 year old car in pristine condition...

[Unicorn123]

Right on, Scott. Some of my best acquisitions over the years were the 15 Y/O well maintained and cared for cars. I will take a well cared for quality car over a new POS any day of the week, hence my rather odd collection of vehicles...

[B58togo]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

this list is from a book by David Solomon - he taught automotive computer diagnostics, was a very good auto technician.
He wrote the book 20 years ago.

And with a 235 all the radiators and turbos. sensors ABS and Crank Position. O2.

if your buying a high-mileage car I think this list is good for evaluating price.



Service or replace

Shocks or Struts 25,000-75,000 miles

suspension tie rods and ball joints. 50,000-150,000 miles

muffler and pipes 60,000-150,000 miles

belts and hoses 60,000-150,000 miles

radiator 100,000 -200,000 miles

water pump 100,000-175,000 miles

timing chain. 100,000-200,000

clutch 60,000- 150,000

cv joints 80,000-150,000

fuel injectors-pump. 100,000-200,000

The exhaust on these cars will not need to be replaced for 15 years. It's stainless. Shocks and struts at 25,000-75,000? Seriously? My car has 56K and the suspension is perfectly fine. And anyone who needs their clutch replaced before 125K, assuming stock power levels, just plain sucks at driving a manual.

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by B58togo

The exhaust on these cars will not need to be replaced for 15 years. It's stainless. Shocks and struts at 25,000-75,000? Seriously? My car has 56K and the suspension is perfectly fine. And anyone who needs their clutch replaced before 125K, assuming stock power levels, just plain sucks at driving a manual.

Few years back in Race Car Engineering Magazine or it could have been from Peugeot - who for a long time were acclaimed for their suspension. The statement was that dampers either strut or shock deteriorate a recognizable amount of performance by 30,000 miles.

It's not about best case scenarios or what brand X uses for suppliers, it's about being slightly aware of what components may deteriorate in your ownership when you buy a car with 110,000 miles.

[scoale]

My views on this topic have shifted. Over time, I've felt 3-year old cars were where the value was and I've bought a bunch of CPO vehicles. I'm now gravitating to 5 plus years and 75k plus miles. BTW, in some cases, you can pickup something that someone else has put repair $$ into. Taking the M235 as a case in point, I see a 2015 w/ 80k on clock listing for $20,577.

Yesterday I came across a single owner 2010 E60 535 with 67k on the clock listing for $11,500! Car had BMW service records covering entire life. I owned a 535 some years back and it was a great driving car with a very high quality interior. I would buy that car all day long - knowing I could drop $5k in turbos/housing gaskets/injectors (I know the car). I also see multiple 2014 535s with ~60k on the clock selling for ~16.5k. THAT is value.

Do not hesitate to buy an older, well cared for car! I like all of the cars I've had but I have paid waaaaaay too much of a premium for newer vehicles and that adds up over a lifetime of purchases

[chattanooga240]

Originally Posted by scoale

Do not hesitate to buy an older, well cared for car! I like all of the cars I've had but I have paid waaaaaay too much of a premium for newer vehicles and that adds up over a lifetime of purchases

So does 1 big mistake on an older one.

I like to gamble on occasion myself so I get where you are coming from believe me. Sometimes, an 80k car goes for another 80k before you have to put a lot of money into it, sometimes the amount you would have spent to just get a newer one in the first place goes into the car. It's a gamble.

Older performance cars, even those that have been well cared for are usually a shot in the dark. You paid a premium for newer vehicles to take worry out of the equation.

For those that do not care about that sort of thing, roll the dice, you only live once.