[vwcrusher]

Might as well add my two cents: Just turned 8k mi on my '17 M240 Xdrive.
It is my daily driver, through winter as well in New England.

A couple of items of note - I have participated in a couple of undercarriage inspections sponsored by the local BMWCC, and in both cases (different facilities and personnel) was strongly suggested to have oil and filter changes every 5000 miles.

Other item is just the plain fun in driving; I am of a certain age and have owned several 60s muscle cars...this little car would have savaged all of them (perhaps except one in a quarter mile)...anyway, I don't track or speed that much, as just having the potential and feeling it is often enough.

Enjoy and do drive safe.

[Fasteddy1]

I have over 30,000 miles on my 2017 M240i.

I had a low coolant light twice over a year ago. I have not had it since. They topped it off and there was no leakage. The coolant tanks are very small It does not have to be very low for the light to come on. After the second time I kept some coolant in my trunk and never used it.

I also have had issues with maps not automatically updating.

Other than that it has been flawless (aside from a Dinan issue).

That is about it though, rock solid!

Pat

[MarkDemma]

So perhaps this warrants a new thread, or more likely has been discussed already and I should just search for it ...

But opinions on purchasing an extended warranty after the car purchase. When it came time to talk about that I was tired, just wanted to pick up the car and had already gotten a really good deal so knew they were itching to recoup some money.

Reading this thread makes me think it's worth it, but by judging when my E46 needed a vanos repair it's likely no extended warranty would last long enough to cover.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by vwcrusher

A couple of items of note - I have participated in a couple of undercarriage inspections sponsored by the local BMWCC, and in both cases (different facilities and personnel) was strongly suggested to have oil and filter changes every 5000 miles.

Agreed. As per my prior post, it pays to run at least one used oil analysis at a 5,000-6,000 mile change to see how the oil is holding up to your driving style. For me, my N55 was showing that it was getting close to getting outside of its viscosity range at 5,000 miles. I'm a pretty hard driver and my car is lightly tuned so that told me that I need to be doing a change every 5,000-7,500 miles.

Changing the oil fairly often definitely reduces your chances of sludge and oiling issues.

Also, letting the oil warm up fully before going heavy throttle is also a very good practice. Per my Torque app, on a stone cold motor, the oil takes quite a bit longer to warm up than the coolant. On a 50-70 degree day and cold motor, it takes a solid 10 minutes of driving to get the oil into the safe "you can beat on it now" range (180-200 degrees; 220 degree ideal).

[RotorOver]

Originally Posted by Rosseau

Only got 3.5k, but will get the correct coolant at BMW when I do my 2nd oil change. This doesn't seem like a car you go to Auto Zone for stuff. Even the windshield wiper fluid has to be special (I think).

Helos off ships - glad you're in one piece.

I've been using Pentosin Pentofrost NF coolant, the PN is 8114117.

Thanks brother, it was a great career.

[Rosseau]

Great information. I really appreciate it.

Yes, I noticed my car takes a while to get to normal operating temp in general, even at 65F ambient. So I warned my "other" driver on that issue. Also, thx for explanations on the coolant issues

I'm going to try and change oil at 5k, but does 70% mild highway use give one more leeway?

Warranty decisions are tough. I went with $1,300 tire/wheel/all around package, then thought how many tires I could buy with that, and started to regret it. Got a good deal, too, so water under the bridge...

[Joe240]

Originally Posted by Rosseau

Great information. I really appreciate it.

Yes, I noticed my car takes a while to get to normal operating temp in general, even at 65F ambient. So I warned my "other" driver on that issue. Also, thx for explanations on the coolant issues

I'm going to try and change oil at 5k, but does 70% mild highway use give one more leeway?

Warranty decisions are tough. I went with $1,300 tire/wheel/all around package, then thought how many tires I could buy with that, and started to regret it. Got a good deal, too, so water under the bridge...

If you got the MPS summer tires then that tore warranty will pay for itself. Those tires are pricey still even being discontinued.

[Maynard]

I haven't priced the warranty extensions specifically, but major repairs can get into some pretty scary price ranges, so I'm planning to extend mine (probably not for the platinum level, but to cover all the essential motor/drivetrain bits). I suspect that the same precision engineering went into deciding on the 60k warranty period for hard parts (that is how I interpret 'lifetime service interval' for things like tranny and diff fluid).

[Rosseau]

Although I don't believe in "luck," I'd say my 45-year experience with cars is bad, so warranty extension is definitely worth considering.

Got into my sister's Highlander last year and figured it was maybe three years old. Turns out it has 170k. I just can't fathom that kind of reliability. Also, can't fathom driving that thing 170,000 miles

Your model/engine is a known quantity; mine less so. The research is out there I guess, but beyond 70k I get antsy.

[chakatrain]

I've got 18.5k miles on my 2017 M240i coupe and no issues at all so far. I drive about 75% highway/25% city miles. I did have the low coolant light come on in the first 3 months. The dealer topped it off and I haven't had the light since then.

I followed the dealer's recommendation and changed the oil at my first service visit at 16K (the car was an executive demo with nearly 7K miles when I bought it, and the oil was changed as part of the pre-sale service). I think I'm going to change it every 5-6K just to keep everything running smoothly.

Automatic 8 speed ZF transmission (so I don't blow my head off doing the Bay Area traffic) and bone stock (so far). Great little car!

[M240xiGuy]

Bought my M240i Xdrive brand new Jan 2018 and now have over 65K miles with no issues. I might add that at 2K miles I installed DINAN Stage One, mid-pipes, exhaust and sway bars... I drive my car hard and needless to say I drive allot. I love this car!

[WolfGTI]

The VANOS actuators can be replaced without removing the engine. The timing chains and guides require an engine removal.

Originally Posted by MarkDemma

My biggest worry / hope is that they have the vanos system bulletproof by now. I've heard that you have to remove the engine to repair.

[harma24]

Originally Posted by M240xiGuy

Bought my M240i Xdrive brand new Jan 2018 and now have over 65K miles with no issues. I might add that at 2K miles I installed DINAN Stage One, mid-pipes, exhaust and sway bars... I drive my car hard and needless to say I drive allot. I love this car!

Wow, and I thought I drove a lot. I'm just over 80k, but I've had my car for an additional 15 months (Oct. 2016)!

Same as you thought, I've had no issues beyond tire wear (and that was mostly self-inflicted )

[WolfGTI]

Just turned 55k in a bit over 3 years. No problem - oil changes every 5k - mainly highway miles.

[rvt1000]

Just picked up my 2017 m240i awd. 26,500 miles. Dealer found only one stored code for low fuel pressure that never came back after clearing. Shop thought it was from low fuel in the tank at one time. The spring that actuates the valve in the exhaust broke on way home from the dealer. I think when I put it into sport mode at the light. Made a larger sound than I guess it usually does. Dealer to replace under warranty. I was given the impression that it is a fairly common issue. Exhaust has ugly rattle until I get it fixed. From my understanding it's a fairly inexpensive part.

HOWEVER, the four brakes the car needs are estimated at the independent shop at $1800. Apparently there is a lip on the rotor that wont allow them to be turned. I was told designed to be replaced with the pads. I found an aftermarket set up cross-drilled and slotted rotors for around $500 for all four wheels. Another brand about $750. I watched the you tube video looks like a straight forward job. But beware.... I did find a tire and brake store who would do the labor for about $350 if I bring in the parts.

[seansurfn2]

Originally Posted by Rosseau

I'm 62 but this is my first BMW, and you hear all kinds of good/bad things about the brand, no less the M240i/B58, which is only been on the street a little over two years. But we have decades of experience here, so looking to tap into that for those who have the time:

I know BMWs can be expensive to fix, but how have they held up historically under normal usage? In the old days with American cars, a lot depended on the day of the week the car was built!

Big change is from N55 to B58. The latter is modular engine, so I assume they have a vested interest in improving it. Not surprised it was voted one of Car&Driver's 10BEST engines last year. Any significant issues come up?

If you take away the performance aspects of the M235/M240i, (let's call the interior "functional"), the MSRP is high as heck, although I got a nice deal based on timing and pure luck. However, I expect to get something more for my $50k+ than if I bought a lightly-optioned Lincoln MKZ (based on the Ford Fusion) with 400HP for the same money?

Got 3.k on it, 75% highway, and plan first oil change at 5k, unless everyone thinks I'm crazy.

Any thoughts on the brand and model are always appreciated. Thanks!

spending 50k or financing a 50k car imo is a bad financial decision but if your 62 and got the money then hey live alittle!

[seansurfn2]

Originally Posted by rvt1000

Just picked up my 2017 m240i awd. 26,500 miles. Dealer found only one stored code for low fuel pressure that never came back after clearing. Shop thought it was from low fuel in the tank at one time. The spring that actuates the valve in the exhaust broke on way home from the dealer. I think when I put it into sport mode at the light. Made a larger sound than I guess it usually does. Dealer to replace under warranty. I was given the impression that it is a fairly common issue. Exhaust has ugly rattle until I get it fixed. From my understanding it's a fairly inexpensive part.

HOWEVER, the four brakes the car needs are estimated at the independent shop at $1800. Apparently there is a lip on the rotor that wont allow them to be turned. I was told designed to be replaced with the pads. I found an aftermarket set up cross-drilled and slotted rotors for around $500 for all four wheels. Another brand about $750. I watched the you tube video looks like a straight forward job. But beware.... I did find a tire and brake store who would do the labor for about $350 if I bring in the parts.

1800 for brakes done? yikes!