[oldmancoyote]

Got mine... before I get the car (next week), so I'm experimenting on other cars - another advantage of the OBDII being standard. I cannot see oil temp, though, despite the control box sticker reading "BMW F series + oil" and a manufacture date of 1 November 2014. I don't mean only getting a "0" or nonsense reading; I cannot see an oil temp display at all.

Where does the oil temp show up in the sequence from "Boost" to "Batt" in your gauges? Did you have to configure anything differently?

Thanks for any enlightenment.

[alz0rz]

Pretty sure it's a custom firmware loaded on the control box just for the M235i to pick up Oil Temp. Very few of their offerings had oil temp support before this.

[MrBucket]

Originally Posted by oldmancoyote

Got mine... before I get the car (next week), so I'm experimenting on other cars - another advantage of the OBDII being standard. I cannot see oil temp, though, despite the control box sticker reading "BMW F series + oil" and a manufacture date of 1 November 2014. I don't mean only getting a "0" or nonsense reading; I cannot see an oil temp display at all.

Where does the oil temp show up in the sequence from "Boost" to "Batt" in your gauges? Did you have to configure anything differently?

Thanks for any enlightenment.

Oil temp on mine is the 2nd thing right after coolant temp

[oldmancoyote]

@Alz0rz: thanks for the reply. I understand, but:

1. The sticker on my box says "+ oil" - and it was purchased through the group buy offer here; the P3 part ID is the same for M135i and M235i (P3F20)
2. The video above does NOT show oil temp, yet some say they have it
3. The M235i and M135i DME/ECU are the same (other than tuning the M235 boost slightly higher, at least in theory)

or are you suggesting that the firmware will "wake up" when the correct car is connected?

@MrBucket - thank you. I have Boost (default), Coolant then Air, Ignition, EGT, Throttle, Speed, Revs, 0-60 and Battery. Tested on a Subaru and an Audi, the menu is the same; some functions are not working on those cars - which is fine, but at least they show up. I'm puzzled.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by oldmancoyote

@Alz0rz: thanks for the reply. I understand, but:

1. The sticker on my box says "+ oil" - and it was purchased through the group buy offer here; the P3 part ID is the same for M135i and M235i (P3F20)
2. The video above does NOT show oil temp, yet some say they have it
3. The M235i and M135i DME/ECU are the same (other than tuning the M235 boost slightly higher, at least in theory)

or are you suggesting that the firmware will "wake up" when the correct car is connected?

@MrBucket - thank you. I have Boost (default), Coolant then Air, Ignition, EGT, Throttle, Speed, Revs, 0-60 and Battery. Tested on a Subaru and an Audi, the menu is the same; some functions are not working on those cars - which is fine, but at least they show up. I'm puzzled.

I think they were shipped specifically programed for the F22. Contact RiXst3r offline and he will answer your questions. At start up the gauge defaults to coolant temp, click the button and oil temp is next. If you want oil up first ask RiXst3r if there is a way to program it so. This thing rocks for 3 bills

[BlueM235]

Probably a good time to start a new group buy from P3 vent gauge.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by BlueM235

Probably a dood time to start a new group buy from P3.

We need to get a lot of group buys going for the 2 series. I want an MPE and M front splitter next

[oldmancoyote]

Originally Posted by ehagerty

I think they were shipped specifically programed for the F22. Contact RiXst3r offline and he will answer your questions. At start up the gauge defaults to coolant temp, click the button and oil temp is next. If you want oil up first ask RiXst3r if there is a way to program it so. This thing rocks for 3 bills

At the moment, I'm not seeing Oil temp first, second, third or anywhere... I'll wait until Friday when I get delivery of the BMW, and see if after a quick plug in things change. If that's the case, I'll report back; if not, Rick will get an email... Thanks for all responses.

Originally Posted by BlueM235

Probably a dood time to start a new group buy from P3.

The current offer is still running - getting roughly $180 off the standard price (precise amount depends on shipping options), which counts as a pretty good deal for me!

[oldmancoyote]

Got the car yesterday evening. Plugged in the P3, and lo and behold, oil temp is there! Only problem now is finding a suitable wire into which to tap the dimmer line; on a 135 there is no boot open button (of course), so that option is out.

Thanks all for the help!

[zipphreak]

oldmancoyote - There is a buried thread here for the m235 dimmer wire

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1053180

[abirmaher]

Anyone interested in purchasing a lightly used one of these things for $300 shipped?

[BlueM235]

Why are you selling? Will you ship to Canada?

[abirmaher]

Originally Posted by BlueM235

Why are you selling? Will you ship to Canada?

Just not getting as much use out of it as I expected. And yes but I may have to charge some for shipping

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by abirmaher

Just not getting as much use out of it as I expected. And yes but I may have to charge some for shipping

I am really not either but am leaving it...its a nice piece of mind having it.

To the other poster...use the trunk wire it works great and set the config to dim

[abirmaher]

Originally Posted by ehagerty

I am really not either but am leaving it...its a nice piece of mind having it.

To the other poster...use the trunk wire it works great and set the config to dim

Thing is all i need ir for is boost but since I'm running a jb4 the readings aren't accurate.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by abirmaher

Thing is all i need ir for is boost but since I'm running a jb4 the readings aren't accurate.

You got a point...was there not a way to integrate it to the JB4 to get accurate readings? thought you hard wired it then changed the setting in config

[abirmaher]

Originally Posted by ehagerty

You got a point...was there not a way to integrate it to the JB4 to get accurate readings? thought you hard wired it then changed the setting in config

I don't want to run that additional wiring. Call me lazy but i just don't want to. lol

[alz0rz]

Not sure how apparent it might have been made to you prior that this gauge was going to have issues reading OBD2 data..? If I were you I'd be wary of running it that way.

[RiXst3r]

The oil temp reading is proprietary (not generic) communication for F chassis BMW's, if you are plugging into other cars, you won't see oil temp. As we add new values, we started making them "auto detect" and disappear if the car does not support it, rather than just show a 0 reading.

Originally Posted by oldmancoyote

@Alz0rz: thanks for the reply. I understand, but:

1. The sticker on my box says "+ oil" - and it was purchased through the group buy offer here; the P3 part ID is the same for M135i and M235i (P3F20)
2. The video above does NOT show oil temp, yet some say they have it
3. The M235i and M135i DME/ECU are the same (other than tuning the M235 boost slightly higher, at least in theory)

or are you suggesting that the firmware will "wake up" when the correct car is connected?

@MrBucket - thank you. I have Boost (default), Coolant then Air, Ignition, EGT, Throttle, Speed, Revs, 0-60 and Battery. Tested on a Subaru and an Audi, the menu is the same; some functions are not working on those cars - which is fine, but at least they show up. I'm puzzled.

[RiXst3r]

Originally Posted by abirmaher

I don't want to run that additional wiring. Call me lazy but i just don't want to. lol

You're lazy... lol I even sent a free kit with all the group buy users to fix the jb4 readings... which was already above and beyond what was expected.

Keep in mind, the jb4 is taking the boost sensors readings, and offsetting their voltage so that the car doesn't see the extra boost. The ONLY way to get an accurate reading from ANY car with ANY piggyback ECU that is altering boost is to get the reading before it is altered.

It's funny to me when people blame the obd readings or the gauge as being "inaccurate"... it's obviously just showing you what the car sees, the jb4 has altered what the car sees as boost.

It's like if you pointed a space heater at a thermometer and then said "it's inaccurate!, it's not showing me the temp of the room!" ... it's showing the value that it has access to... we are simply asking you to use the included wire which get's the reading without the jb4 altering it...

Fact's are:
The gauge is accurately showing exactly the boost the cars ECU is seeing.
There is no obd2 or canbus conflicts by running jb4 an the gauge together.
The jb4 is altering the voltage of the sensor direct, causing the boost to be offset.
We provide instructions and a free kit in the box for wiring up a direct (pre-jb4) boost reading from the T-map sensor.

I don't usually ague this point very often because people who refuse to accept the reality of the situation usually don't care about the facts and are just annoyed that they have to hook up another wire... and then they post everywhere with false info like "it's inaccurate" and spread confusion and annoy the engineer in me which knows it's only as accurate as the readings its being fed via the ECU or in this case, the altered value from JB4.

It won't hurt anything to run it that way, the F chassis cars have plenty of bandwidth on canbus... but wouldn't you rather just run one wire and get your real boost readings instead of the fake jb4 readings?

[lieb923]

The unit is working perfectly. Just can't decide as to what level of light is best.
I think I'll run default and decide later.

[oldmancoyote]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

oldmancoyote - There is a buried thread here for the m235 dimmer wire

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1053180

Originally Posted by ehagerty

[snip]
To the other poster...use the trunk wire it works great and set the config to dim

Thanks (esp to @zipphreak for the write up). The problem is that in the F20 (hatchback) there is no remote boot/trunk release... nor the associated wiring. I have found another grey/red wire that may be a dimmer wire attached to the centre vent, but 1) it doesn't seem to work (rigged up a temporary tap/green wire, it seems to make no difference to the P3) and 2) it shows a variable voltage from ~2 to ~10 V varying with the dimmer intensity. Never mind!