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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB Differential oil change

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      06-21-2022, 08:17 AM   #1
Ajowhan
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Differential oil change

Is the process to do differential oil change the same in m240i as in an m2?

Tried to find youtube video but most video on youtube are on m2..

Is it as simple as drain plug, suck oil out? Is there a separate fill plug or is it just one hole for fill and drain?

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      06-21-2022, 09:41 AM   #2
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There's only a fill hole, so the oil must be sucked-out via that hole. Then you can put fresh fluid in until it starts to flow out of the hole.

I watched the mechanic do this with my car the last time it was done. Believe it or not, he spent 20 minutes sucking-out the used fluid. Basically, once he'd gotten most of the fluid out, he then moved the tube he was using to get the fluid out around in a variety of ways to try and get the rest of it out. And he did get a fair amount more used fluid out of the diff using this method. He certainly had more patience than I would have had if I'd been doing it.

I wonder why there's no drain plug on our diffs.
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      06-21-2022, 12:05 PM   #3
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Although it isn’t for the faint of heart, you can fit a drain plug to a BMW diff, but it takes some machining. My Caterham uses the “small” BMW diff casing. I think the M235i and M240i use the “medium” one. Here is the operation to machine a flat and drill and tap a hole for a magnetic drain plug, there is just enough space to fit the drain plug and enough casing thickness for the thread:
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      06-22-2022, 08:01 AM   #4
Ajowhan
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Thank you guys for the answer! Can always trust the forum to go above and beyond even on the answer
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      06-23-2022, 08:14 PM   #5
ggggbmw
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I found that sucking out any oil was the hard part. That stuff is THICK. (It stinks too, but not as bad as the ZF Lifeguard AT fluid.) I had a hard time using any of the 3 fluid suction tools I have and not getting leaks in the seals to maintain suction. However, I was using a home-built J tube made from 1/4" copper tubing, with a 3/16" ID. A bigger tube would probably help.
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      06-24-2022, 07:59 AM   #6
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I wonder if the new M240i's have a drain hole in the new M-Diff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
There's only a fill hole, so the oil must be sucked-out via that hole. Then you can put fresh fluid in until it starts to flow out of the hole.

I watched the mechanic do this with my car the last time it was done. Believe it or not, he spent 20 minutes sucking-out the used fluid. Basically, once he'd gotten most of the fluid out, he then moved the tube he was using to get the fluid out around in a variety of ways to try and get the rest of it out. And he did get a fair amount more used fluid out of the diff using this method. He certainly had more patience than I would have had if I'd been doing it.

I wonder why there's no drain plug on our diffs.
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      Yesterday, 01:55 PM   #7
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What about removing the rear plate, and reinstalling with a new gasket and some gasket cement? Then, filling, of course.
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      Yesterday, 03:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggggbmw View Post
I found that sucking out any oil was the hard part. That stuff is THICK
Was that true with the fluid fully heated-up before starting to extract it?

FWIW, I generally drive my car for a minimum of an hour on back roads and highways before fluid changes and run the last third or quarter of an hour in lower than normal gears. That's to ensure higher RPMs and higher fluid temperatures.

I ask because I don't recall my diff fluid appearing at all thick when it was extracted by the mechanic at my shop. However, since I wasn't doing the extraction, I might well have missed that the thickness of the oil was greater than it appeared to be when flowing through the clear extraction tube and into the extractor body.

The diff fluid I'm running is Red Line 75W110 GL-5 Gear Oil.
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      Today, 12:00 PM   #9
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GL4 / GL5

Interesting that you can find users saying to only use GL5 and others GL4.
.
.
The OEM oil in my car was / is GL4.
.
Redline says GL-5 will work and protects better. My thoughts are that GL-5 is a better diff oil but could end up being corrosive if subjected to higher temps and that is why BMW went GL-4.
.
OEM fluid is stupid expensive.
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      Today, 12:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123Britt View Post
Interesting that you can find users saying to only use GL5 and others GL4.
.
.
The OEM oil in my car was / is GL4.
.
Redline says GL-5 will work and protects better. My thoughts are that GL-5 is a better diff oil but could end up being corrosive if subjected to higher temps and that is why BMW went GL-4.
.
OEM fluid is stupid expensive.
GL4 vs GL5 is normally only a problem in manual transmissions with brass/bronze synchros. The GL5 high sulphur content can corrode those metals. In a diff, either GL4 or GL5 that meets the weight and additives requirements should be fine.
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