[GamingDaemon]

Originally Posted by abirmaher

Sure! Or just follow the steps, order the parts and knock it out yourself and save some money.

My wife would definitely like to save the money. And me too.

But those plastic pieces look wedged together pretty well, and I don't want to break them. The car is barely 26 hours old. And there's a ton of wiring in the mirror housing too. Just nervous about messing with it.

[abirmaher]

Originally Posted by GamingDaemon

My wife would definitely like to save the money. And me too.

But those plastic pieces look wedged together pretty well, and I don't want to break them. The car is barely 26 hours old. And there's a ton of wiring in the mirror housing too. Just nervous about messing with it.

Understood. I did this back when my m235 was new and again when I picked my m2 up just a year ago. With this diy they should be able to knock it out in half hour max though so I would definitely find someone much more realistic on price. 350 to do this is crazy I'm my opinion.

[ssimonvii]

I still haven't been able to install myself. I've been quoted 50-150 around town. I'll prob go with the shop that offered 50 because they seemed to know it would only take 30 mins tops.

$350 is a giant rip considering it is ~200 more than the highest quote I received from 15 shops in LA.

[GamingDaemon]

Jsut to wrap this up, I spoke to a high-end car audio installer in my area. He works on porsches, ferraris, bmws, etc, and he said not to use the mirrortap because the power fluctuates too much there.

He suggested I buy the uniden r3 hardwire kit ($29), and then schedule an appointment with him. He would charge me about $150, and he filled me with tons of confidence about his workmanship. I'm happy to share a youtube video of their work if anyone else lives around me.

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.

Long live the M2 Competition

[abirmaher]

Originally Posted by GamingDaemon

Jsut to wrap this up, I spoke to a high-end car audio installer in my area. He works on porsches, ferraris, bmws, etc, and he said not to use the mirrortap because the power fluctuates too much there.

He suggested I buy the uniden r3 hardwire kit ($29), and then schedule an appointment with him. He would charge me about $150, and he filled me with tons of confidence about his workmanship. I'm happy to share a youtube video of their work if anyone else lives around me.

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.

Long live the M2 Competition

To each their own. But for what it's worth I've been running this setup for a long time now. Had this on my m235 for about 3 years and have had it now on my m2 for a year. Zero issues with my radar detectors and this solution being as clean and simple as it is I really don't think you can beat a setup like this.

That being said to each their own like I said and as long as you find the solution that works for you, that's what matters!

[hwntime]

Anyone here have a Uniden DFR7? I'm getting conflicting info on which MirrorTap to use. Per MirrorTap website, it's saying MTX-2015 but I'm also coming across MTX-4015 and MTX-1015 on my google searches?

[2020 M2C]

I attempted to install the Mirror Tap in my M2 competition today and unfortunately after installing the taps I lost power to the mirror. Any suggestions.

thanks

[BJM2018]

Sorry to hear that, not sure what happened, possibly you touched one of the live pins to ground or metal and blew the fuse. I tapped into the power for my qrain sensors and never had a problem. What mirror tap are you using?

[Economatic]

Thanks for posting this abirmaher. I used this write-up for my 2020 M2 Competition. Everything was the same with the exception of wire colors. The wire colors were different but the positions in the plug were the same, so it was easy to confirm with a voltmeter.

[fmzip]

Are you guys buying this one or is there a cheaper alternative?

https://blendmount.com/power-cord-mt...25-lg-mt-4015/

[MerlinMc]

Originally Posted by abirmaher

To each their own. But for what it's worth I've been running this setup for a long time now. Had this on my m235 for about 3 years and have had it now on my m2 for a year. Zero issues with my radar detectors and this solution being as clean and simple as it is I really don't think you can beat a setup like this.

That being said to each their own like I said and as long as you find the solution that works for you, that's what matters!

Agreed as my experience is similar. I had a mirror tap in my 2008 135i with no issues over 5 years, then my M235i with no issues over 4 years and now in my 2020 M240i with no issues over 4 months. Also used mirror tap in other vehicles, again with no issues.

[TrboMike]

Got my car last week (2017 M240), did this today. I guess my fingers are fat I had one hell of a time trying to get the mirror harness unplugged. I tried pressing sides like OP said, I tried pushing the little tab facing forward with fingers and with a mini screwdriver. Sucker would not come out. In fact I fucked with it so much the entire harness and clip came out. The harness to the mirror and harness below to the car are just pressed in and they slid out together while I was trying to unplug it. This gave me plenty of room and I was able to slide it back in easily.

Now to the mirror tap: I bought MT-4015 and slid it into the mirror harness wires and sometimes the radar would power up but any kind of movement it would lose power. I unplugged and plugged them back so many times. So I gave up and plugged them into the higher red harness for the rain sensor. One push and they went in and no matter how I jiggled it the radar never lost power.

Now that I've looked at it, there is so much loose wire up there buying a mirror tap is a total waste of money. If you can solder two wires together, just cut up any random loose phone wire and there is a ton of slack to splice these in.

Now that I have my V1 powered up, my phone wouldnt connect. Duh V1's have a separate bluetooth dongle. I have it up in the headliner of my other car, now I need to order one and try and fit that and a phone splitter into the mirror plastic shell cover.

[Bewstd]

Originally Posted by TrboMike

Got my car last week (2017 M240), did this today. I guess my fingers are fat I had one hell of a time trying to get the mirror harness unplugged. I tried pressing sides like OP said, I tried pushing the little tab facing forward with fingers and with a mini screwdriver. Sucker would not come out. In fact I fucked with it so much the entire harness and clip came out. The harness to the mirror and harness below to the car are just pressed in and they slid out together while I was trying to unplug it. This gave me plenty of room and I was able to slide it back in easily.

Now to the mirror tap: I bought MT-4015 and slid it into the mirror harness wires and sometimes the radar would power up but any kind of movement it would lose power. I unplugged and plugged them back so many times. So I gave up and plugged them into the higher red harness for the rain sensor. One push and they went in and no matter how I jiggled it the radar never lost power.

Now that I've looked at it, there is so much loose wire up there buying a mirror tap is a total waste of money. If you can solder two wires together, just cut up any random loose phone wire and there is a ton of slack to splice these in.

Now that I have my V1 powered up, my phone wouldnt connect. Duh V1's have a separate bluetooth dongle. I have it up in the headliner of my other car, now I need to order one and try and fit that and a phone splitter into the mirror plastic shell cover.

I have all that for my m2, you think the bluetooth module will fit in the headliner?

[TrboMike]

I have a convertible and my headliner is tiny and has a hard plastic shell. I have two other cars where the V1 BlueTooth dongle fits inside the headliner, but not this car.

I bought a bluetooth dongle from V1. I already had a 3-way phone splitter (male/female/female). If you dont have DriverPlus (radar cruise and auto braking) like I dont, there is a ton of room inside the plastic shell that goes around the mirror electronics. If you do have auto braking (and auto high beams, etc) then you have a camera up there and your room inside the shell around the mirror may be different from mine.

My problem was, I already had a wire tap plugged in, so I had three male wires (one from tap, one to BT dongle, one to V1) that needed to all come together. Putting the V1 BT dongle AND the splitter AND 3 male wire ends inside the plastic shell was a problem. Mostly because the phone splitter was so square and large. The V1 dongle is long and thin and not an issue.

So I looked on ebay and amazon for a small phone splitter. Couldnt find anything. What I wound up doing was buying a 10 pack of male phone connectors with wires on the other side. I took three and spliced and soldered the wires together, now I had a small ball of 3 male phone connectors that was basically a 3way splitter. Plugged in my three phones wires, tucked the V1 dongle next to the mirror, tucked in my homemade 3 way splitter, snapped the shell back together. I was going to surround the whole thing with mini bubble wrap so eliminate the possibility of there being any noise, but the 3 phone wires and homemade 3 way splitter are soft and keep it all from rattling around.

The best thing about it is you can have the wire to the V1 come out anywhere. I have it coming out of the plastic shell right at the windshield edge and it follows that edge right to the V1. Making it almost invisible. Wish I had planned it that way but it was butter on the muffin.

[cooolone2]

Uniden R3 Mirror Tap from Blendmount.

Nice but a little pricey for what it is.

Seen in a YouTube video, to get the cover off, you just have to use your finger and apply pressure to the seam on the middle of the cover near the top and it'll pop. Worked great.

Could not fit the tap into the mirror power plug, so went to the sensor tap (higher connector/red)... Used info from an earlier post, confirmed 12V with multimeter. Tap went in very nice. Secured wire with ty-wraps provided. Left the rest of the cable slack loose in case I move the R3.

From earlier post: The connector, with three wires...
Black (left): Ground
Purple: (Center)
Red (right): Live

I hooked up to the 12V power, but the wires were different colors, which in the M240i XDrive was:
Black/Brown (left): 12V- (Black on Tap)
Purple/Gray: (Center)
Red/White(right): 12V+ (Red on Tap)

Question is this... The Purple/Gray... Is this a switched 12V?

I just connected it to 12V constant for now, but would change it if anyone has access to wiring diagrams and can confirm what the purple/gray is. I would rather have it on a switched circuit, but not a biggie.

Thanks for this how to.
Made the job easier.

[abirmaher]

Just posed on updates thoughts thread. Feel free to check that out.


https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1688987

[Mason Hatcher]

I know it is a 4 month old thread, but my public thanks to abirmaher. I installed my mirror tap today using his guide and it took me all of about 10 minutes

[abirmaher]

Originally Posted by Mason Hatcher

I know it is a 4 month old thread, but my public thanks to abirmaher. I installed my mirror tap today using his guide and it took me all of about 10 minutes

Happy to help. This thread has helped many people even to this day. Glad I spent the time documenting for everyone! Enjoy

[personinma]

Big thanks for this. I couldn't for the life of me get the wiretap to work for the mirror, but this worked first try for my Blackvue. My only concern is that power isn't fully off until like 2-3 minutes after the engine is off, but it has properly turned off the last two times getting in and out of the car..

Originally Posted by judas

First of all, thanks to the OP for the DIY, it gave the tips normally missing from instructions.

As my 2017 M240i rearview mirror is not itself powered, I decided to tap into the rain sensor connection. It went smoothly.

So, this is what I used in my setup:

Car: 2017 M240i
Radar: Uniden R3
Radar Mounting Mechanism: The big suction cup included with the R3
Mirror Tap: Radar Mount Radar Mount Mirror Wire Power Cord for Escort Radar Detectors With Inline Fuse RJ11 (3005201) https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-M...+mount+3005201
Tools: A credit card.

Heres the cable packaging:
Attachment 1792650
Attachment 1792651

Opening the mirror housing was easy, starting from the middle and just sliding the credit card back and forth, applying some pressure. The left side gave up first, very easily and then the right.

I found a single connector, with three wires:
Black (left): Ground
Purple: (Center)
Red (right): Live

The wires from the Radar Mount slide in but i had to put some pressure, specially on the red wire. I did not bring the connection down, as it seemed I could just do it while connected just a little unconfortably because of the mirror standing in the way. Small hands might be of help.

Here's the connection:
Attachment 1792653

Then, so i had to see the least cable possible, i decided to make it go through the middle of the right plastic housing. First I tried to make it come out through the roof, but too much cable showed (the length was ok though).

Attachment 1792648

The plastic housing snapped right back, and here's the end result:

From the passenger side:
Attachment 1792652

From the drivers position:
Attachment 1792649

Hopfully this helps someone else that also does not have a powered rearview mirror. Cheers!

[Rollo`]

This thread and a video I found on youtube were very helpful to me. I bought the hardwire kit for my Uniden R7 but since BMW elected to put the fuse box in the trunk I couldn't use it. Didn't use a blend mount but did use the mirror tap and it is working great so far.

[ddnmkun]

Great write up! Saved me tons of times and money. I just bought the tap wire on amazon for much less!

[boostm3]

Does anybody know what these 2 wires near the mirror tap location are for?