[mg92p]

Hi all, first time poster so play easy.

I have been doing a fair amount of research in these forums and other forums regarding knock detection on a completely stock car and why it occurs, and if it is normal on low load sections of acceleration. However, cannot find a straight answer or draw a conclusion.

Please see below logs from my car in completely stock form (Please note ambient temperate is about 33-34C):
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=6215...729b6aec646ddf
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=6215...729b6aec646de1

As seen in the logs above, the car is knocking in both low load and high load areas.

Can someone please indicate whether this is normal behaviour for a stock car? Or is there a larger issue at hand?


Furthermore to this, i have since gone OTS stage 2 with BM3 (CSF Intercooler/Catless Downpipe/FTP Charge Pipe/AFE Drop in Filter) and am receiving increased intensive knocking events (i have not gone to colder plugs as of yet).

Please see below logs from my car in stage 2 form (Please note the ambient temperature is about 32C):
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=621a...90c627e152d649
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=621a...729b6b74b51e62


Can anyone provide any incite as to what may be inducing this intensive knock at both cruising speeds and WOT events? Will colder plugs assist these knocking events?

I know Australian fuel is pretty crap and it is hot in Australia at the moment, but should i be worried about the frequency of these events?

I would very much appreciate any help or incite guys, just a newbie trying to learn the ways.

proTUNING Freaks

[rtl32]

Knock is very bad. Tip in knock tells you that you’re getting close to octane limits, high load knock tells you that your plugs or octane have been exceeded. And by that I mean they are old/worn plugs not the wrong temp range.

I for one am a huge supporter of the one step colder plugs. There are strong opinions on the forum from very knowledgeable people about if you need colder plugs or not. What I can factually say is that I needed colder plugs especially when I went from 93 to 2+ E30. I can also factually say that regardless of what temp range, they need to be fresh and gapped properly.

I would say you can get away with oem plugs on 93 but why do that especially when you live in a hot climate. Go 97506 and keep them fresh, every 10k miles replace them, and don’t let these amazing machines be held back or damaged because of a maintenance item.

Stop running that map and holding it in boost with the plugs you have in it. They need to be changed. Once you’re on a fresh set that are gapped properly, say .024-0.26, then you can assess your octane quality. Since you also didn’t mention coils do those as well. The tuners don’t stress the need for plugs/coils for nothing. It should br a requirement the second you plug into the OBD port to tune.