[smchuck]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a pad spreader tool that will work with M sport brakes with the calipers and rotors in place? I'm looking for a tool to swap between street and track pads and its easier to not have to remove calipers. I know many folks just use whatever is in their tool box but I don't mind buying something specific to the job and prevents any damage to the pads.

thanks

chuck

[Sail Boat]

Chuck,

I understand your question and goal. Personally what I do when swapping my Hawk HPS to EBC Yellows is apply pressure by hand back and forth on the metal pad tabs to compress the pistons ever so slightly. The movement is a pull on the outside pad and a push on the inside pad. I've never had any problems compressing the pistons enough to remove and reinstall pads. I do unscrew the fluid reservoir, although I'm not sure that is necessary. Rest assured that this method does not damage the pads since almost all the pressure is applied to the pad backing plate.

If you are set on finding an appropriate tool, the type you're looking for are expansion pliers like these: https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Tools-...1433828&sr=8-2

I would use this tool on the metal pad tabs.

[Maynard]

I'm going to try using one of the wider plastic pry tools that came in an interior kit (like a plastic putty knife). If you are going to bleed them afterwards, cracking the bleed screw will make it much easier to push the pad back (make sure to have a drain tube/bottle attached). And if you are pushing back far (going from worn pads to fresh), watch that you do not push fluid up and out of the reservoir. At the track I've seen people using a screwdriver between rotor and pads, without visible damage - way too rough and crude for my taste, but it gives me confidence that these parts are fairly robust.

[overcoil]

Yes if I recall correctly of the 235 brakes, once you tap out the pins and open the brake fluid reservoir you use the old pad to push back the caliper piston wit your fingers.

Some pistons need to be rotated as you press them back in but not the BNW's ?

[ggggbmw]

If you're going to bleed the brakes anyway as part of a pad swap, the easiest thing to do is open the bleeder valve. With an appropriate catch can attached to catch the fluid being ejected. You can easily push the pads apart with your fingers when the bleeder is open. No tools needed. Or if the pads are out and just need a bit more room for new pads, just reach in and push the cylinders in. Normally you need to push on all four pistons at the same time, or when you push one in, the others might come out. Like squeezing a balloon. But with the bleeder open so much pressure is relieved you can usually just push them one at a time.

If I'm not opening the bleeder, I use a screwdriver to carefully pry against the pad ears, bracing against the disc edge. Easier if you slide the screwdriver in under the calipers where you have more disc face to press against. I'm VERY careful to only pry against the metal backing plate, and not the pad friction materiel. I also use an old screwdriver I've purposely filed the sharp edges off for this purpose. It's my dedicated tiny blunt pry bar. Maynard's suggestion to use a trim tool is a good idea, but if the bleeder is closed you do need some significant force.

With the bleeders closed it's a lot harder to push the cylinders in at the same time. If I need a bit more room for fresher/fatter pads, I'll stick the old pads back in and pry on those some more. Again, you need brake pads, or a wood block or slat, to pry against all four cylinders at the same time, or pushing on one side just pushes the other side out.