[Turbo_435i]

I'm still contemplating whether or not a turbo upgrade is worth it.

Couple qwk things:

1.JB4 & downpipe.... (+/- 400hp)$1450 parts, labor $250, total $1700
Soo $1700 for 400hp

2. Turbo upgrade.... ( +/- 395hp) stage 1, $1000 + core $750, labor $400.total $2550
( +/- 455hp) stage 2, $2500 + core $750, labor $800 total $4050
( +/- 536hp) stage 2, same

So basically, a JB4 & DP etx cost $1700 +/- for 400hp

And stage 1 turbo cost $2550 +/- for 395hp
And stage 2 turbo cost $4050 +/- for 455hp-536hp

Also keep in mind..... JB4 & DP cost prob spot on.

Turbo upgrade cost prob need to add $300-$500 for miscellaneous gaskets, parts, labor time, tune.

Now.... Here come the questions:

1. JB4 & DP prob plug & play, done.

2. Turbo upgrade installed at costs provided, BUT.....

Are the turbo upgrade claimed hp #'s using ADDED upgrades also? (Jb4,DP,exhaust)???? If Yes, then even more money!!!

Are the claimed hp #'s for turbo upgrade on pump gas ? 93 octane ? Or RACE setup only ? Or meth added ?

Trying to justify the cost,time, and actual real time usage of turbo upgrade... Meaning..... No point upgrading to Stage 2 per say, if always requires race gas,100+ octane.

Looking for daily driver increased hp, ease of use, and somewhat budget friendly!!!!

Hope this convo helps clear up some stuff for anyone thinking of adding upgrades, tune and or turbo upgrade.

[Turbo_435i]

Also,

Can the 8Auto tranny hanlde above 450hp ?

And / or need for upgraded intercooler above 450hp ?

[boost82]

In Florida yes on the intercooler imo. Your car will be more consistent. I also think 400 whp is a little off with just a jb4 and a down pipe. Probably more like 350 unless you are running meth, ethanol or race gas

[Turbo_435i]

I was saying 400hp, not necessarily 400whp, for the JB4 & DP

And also for the turbo upgrade,
Not sure thats hp or whp.?

[G-Mann]

$1700 for a JB4 and DP seems a bit steep. I would think you could gather those parts in the $750 to 1k price range.

Edit: I see you have labor costs bundled into that $1700. Missed that originaly

[Turbo_435i]

Originally Posted by G-Mann

$1700 for a JB4 and DP seems a bit steep. I would think you could gather those parts in the $750 to 1k price range.

Edit: I see you have labor costs bundled into that $1700. Missed that originaly

Yeah ER Downpipe $900
JB4 $550

$1450

Labor basically for ER DP, prob $150 -$200
JB4 prob self installed(free)

Maybe $1600-$1700 total

[DCastaneda]

Is there a specific reason you want a catted downpipe? The JB4 automatically clears any codes thrown from running a catless one. That will save you at least $500 on the up front cost.

Also, you should factor in that the JB4 can easily be removed and sold for half or more of what you paid for it.

The downpipe can be sold later too, but will probably be a wash after labor cost.

[Turbo_435i]

I would want a catted DP, because the catless one emits too much fuel smell. Ive had catless before, and the fumes are bad, i literally would have fuel smell/exhaust smell on my clothes, hair skin, etx....

My brother also had a catless DP on another type of car and same thing, FUMES are badd!!

[sakitnyatudisini]

Originally Posted by schybrid

Yeah ER Downpipe $900
JB4 $550

$1450

Labor basically for ER DP, prob $150 -$200
JB4 prob self installed(free)

Maybe $1600-$1700 total

what this price included shipping?

[Turbo_435i]

Originally Posted by sakitnyatudisini

what this price included shipping?

Not sure.

[PeterPure]

If i had some budget for pefofmance mods on my car I would go:
- JB4
- ER chargepipe
- Sportcat
- Fmic
- Pure Stage2 (80 whp over stock turbo on 93 oct gas only AND rev till 7K rpm max power)
- Pure Inlet
- BMS meth kit (get 70 whp over pump because of higher octane and stock fuel pump limitations)

Thats like a lot of power over stock for total of 5-6k $?

[PeterPure]

As for your questions when tuning stock turbo or pure stage2 turbo the supporting mods are required for best engine health:
- higher boost requires better exhaust flow otherwise too much backpressure and things get too hot --> so even with stock turbo get a sportcat AND aliminum chargepipe as the stock one will break because its plastic.
- higher boost means Intake temps will rise faster so an upgraded intercooler is recommended (not required)

On 93 pump with stock turbo you will make 350-360 whp maybe. With pure stage2 you will get 450-460 whp on pump.

Want more power, add bms meth kit and enjoy 520 whp on just meth + 93 octane.

The proper way to tune your car is first do the supporting mods then the turbo upgrade. You could do turbo first but if you go that way free budget for sportcat/decat and intercooler. Your chargepipe will blow for sure with higher boost. So maybe its good for few k miles but it will break.

Do it right, get the supporting mods.

And JB4 you need always in all cases to tune the car.

[WhollySmokes]

With a turbo motor, some way to increase boost and tune the vehicle is a necessity.

A good course of action may be to get your tuning solution sorted (JB4) and then add parts as needed/desired.

[verbs]

Why are you treating core cost like a permanent expense? You get your money back.

[Turbo_435i]

Leased car,original turbo needs to go back on.

[verbs]

With a stage 1 car they'd probably never know but if you want to return to stock then there may be some resale value in the modified turbo as well you can add back.

[rwalker]

you can't get the power you're talking about out of upgraded turbos without the tune; also supporting mods (DP, FMIC) are a good idea when doing the turbo upgrade

so don't look at these as alternatives, they're more like stages of modification

1. tune
2. FBO
3. upgraded turbo

[Turbo_435i]

Originally Posted by rwalker

you can't get the power you're talking about out of upgraded turbos without the tune; also supporting mods (DP, FMIC) are a good idea when doing the turbo upgrade

so don't look at these as alternatives, they're more like stages of modification

1. tune
2. FBO
3. upgraded turbo

Yeah, this seems to be the correct pattern.

[rickinaz]

So...let me get this straight. You are going to run 500+ bhp through a powertrain designed to handle 2/3 of that amount - arguably accelerating wear throughout, and then pass the car off to the unsuspecting 2nd owner as unmodified. Does the word "disingenuous" ring a bell? Not to mention the fact that for what you are going to spend, you could have leased an M-car.

[ABPReader]

.

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by jet_00

Darkhold Do you plan to rebuild the motor ? Do you know when it became necessary to do it (in term of hp) ? I ask you because you have a highly modified car
I remember that a lot of guys was saying that tge N55 can't handle the power on the same way as the N54, but 500+ whp is really high number

Not going to build my engine as proactive measure.

I am not doing 20 min trackday sessions. That would heat up the combustion chambers and more chance on damage.

Just daily driving and sprints. I think the engine is fine for this kind of driving also running E20-E50 mix and meth/water injection cools the combustion chamber.

[F1wheels]

Originally Posted by Turbo_435i

I would want a catted DP, because the catless one emits too much fuel smell. Ive had catless before, and the fumes are bad, i literally would have fuel smell/exhaust smell on my clothes, hair skin, etx....

My brother also had a catless DP on another type of car and same thing, FUMES are badd!!

+1
Just my 2 cents, I also agree with the smell plus IMO they are just way too fucking loud. I know nowadays it seems that loud is in again but I think the loud ass stuff is for the kids or unless you are tracking it. I am running the VRSF 200 CEL catted DP on my M235i and it performs great.