10-31-2019, 12:04 AM | #1 |
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Ohlins, KW, M3LCA or combo?
I was considering the m4 LCA upgrade for my f22 m240i, but now wondering if Ohlins or KW coil overs may be a better option. Or is it worth doing the LCA and coil overs? Price excluded here, what would you do?
I may do a track day or two, or a drag race for fun, but enjoy spirited driving in the country. If that matters. This is also a daily, but I'm ok with some harshness. Suspension is currently adaptive too. Which makes everything more pricey but again, excluding price. |
10-31-2019, 11:00 AM | #2 |
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The coilover kit includes camber plates. The car has 2.n° of negative camber front and rear. The setup is extremely effective for spirited and track driving. The limited slip differential and aluminum rear subframe bushings help quite a bit with that. I recently added the H&R front swaybar to the list.
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2017 M240i: 23.8K, 28.9 mpg, MT, Sunroof Delete, 3,432#, EB, Leather, Driving Assistance Package, Heated Front Seats | Sold: E12 530i, E24 M635CSi, E39 520i, E30 325is, E36 M3 (2)
TC Kline Coilovers; H&R Front Bar; Wavetrac; Al Subframe Bushings; 18X9/9½ ARC-8s; 255/35-18 PS4S (4); Dinan Elite V2 & CAI; MPerf Orange BBK; Schroth Quick Fit Pro; GTechniq Crystal Serum Ultra Ceramic; Suntek PPF Last edited by dradernh; 10-31-2019 at 11:07 AM.. |
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11-05-2019, 10:01 PM | #3 |
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I went with Ohlins and Vorshlag camber plates and kept stock LCAs.
The M3 LCA limits how wide you can go with front wheels. Mine was also adaptive which I got coded out. |
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11-05-2019, 10:13 PM | #4 |
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11-06-2019, 07:09 PM | #5 |
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I love them. I went with different swift springs than what comes with the kit though, harder on the front, softer on the rear.
Install cost was the same as any coilovers, plus alignment. I bought them from HP Autosport and he sent them with the front struts already assembled with the swift springs and camber plates. I'm in Australia so labour costs probably aren't comparable. |
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11-06-2019, 10:25 PM | #6 | |
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Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
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TCKR and Ohlins are both good choices for coilovers. |
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11-08-2019, 10:26 AM | #7 | ||
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11-10-2019, 06:47 PM | #8 |
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The F30 kit will work but I would recommend a softer rear spring.
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11-13-2019, 08:54 AM | #9 |
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11-13-2019, 07:00 PM | #10 |
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Ohlins provide a 16kg rear spring which made the car not very nice to drive on the road in my opinion.
I went with a 12kgs swift spring on the rear and 7kg on the front. This is some spring info I put together. |
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11-14-2019, 09:13 PM | #11 |
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Thanks! I'll keep this in mind if I move forward with it.
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03-21-2020, 08:13 PM | #12 | |||
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But the payoff. WOW!!! |
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03-22-2020, 01:28 PM | #13 |
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See below for my thoughts so far. - No regrets! - Ohlins, Turner monoballs, full poly bushing in the rear, M3 LCA's
Caveat - I am still on my winter wheels/tires - will update when I get the summer wheels/tires on. Ride - I have the coilovers set to the recommended settings from Ohlins for the street. It firm and well damped non of that 'pitching' back and forth that occurs with the factory suspension. Steering feel - Ground control camber plates with the monoballs and F80 LCA's make a major difference in front, the car feels very precise and you can actually feel the road. I have to say if you do nothing else, this is a must do mod. Rear subframe poly and Delrin diff bushings - There is none of the 'squishyness or squirelly' feeling I felt when changing lanes under hard acceleration or over ruts in the road when it would feel like the back end was wandering a little. There is a little more NVH from the diff primarily - but if you're not really sensitive you will not notice it. The car feels more responsive when you gas it- like drive line lag is gone - I guess it feels more urgent or direct is a good way to describe it. Handling -haven't had the opportunity to push it yet - but the car certainly felt more planted on the couple off ramps / on ramps I drove on heading home. Lastly - I was not looking for the slammed look - don't get Ohlins if you want to slam the car - height is set at 10 mm less than stock. |
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03-22-2020, 01:41 PM | #14 | ||
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03-22-2020, 08:04 PM | #15 |
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SuperPro.
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03-23-2020, 12:11 PM | #17 |
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PM Sent - yes the rear is pretty involved - removed the subframe, and took out every arm / link and the diff bushings -and replaced with poly - very labor intensive. You have to realign the car after as well.
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03-26-2020, 11:21 AM | #18 |
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I ended up with KW's w/ the KW camber plates. Already had the M4 LCA/TS's so they remained. I am running 9" wheels w/ 255 RE71r's no problem, but wouldn't work without the TS's installed as well, imo
If you're gonna go through the trouble of the rear subframe bushings I'd recommend doing the 4 links as well. You'd at the very least want adjustable rear toe arms to get the alignment adjusted back to factory after the lowered ride height and added camber otherwise the toe angle may not be "ideal" for wear etc. Also if you want to dial in the perfect alignment you'd want that adjust-ability. Megan racing has really decent quality link (for the price) I ended up doing all 8 of them, they have a metal ball joint style bushing with some forgiveness/rubber, and the added adjust-ability w/ thread protectors built in. D
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