[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by kohlzor

Never mind went for a drive and it showed up weird glitch.

Time/date syncs with iDrive when you go online through iDrive (for example, you use iConnect, office, search functions) and I think, too, if you use the nav.

I know in my 235 I have time/date set to auto-update. After I code, the time will go to --:--, but soon as I use the online functions in iDrive or nav, the date/time update.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by wdlfbio

Ok, trying to add office.
Head unit is NBT EVO
Followed this series
I get office to show up in the main display and two others, but I don't get it when configuring my phone. I did check the box on my iPhone 6 to allow notifications under Bluetooth. I don't see emails or texts.
Sorry, pics are out of order.

I don't get the office function to select under Bluetooth. Samsung Galaxy S7 issue? (I have enhanced bluetooth.)

Been driving me bonkers.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by shundel

Would the dealership have any issues with this on a leased car?

I could see a dealer having a problem if you code off seatbelt warnings & any of the legal disclaimers, and you don't code them back to default.

Aside from the dealer's thoughts on your coding activities... think about what it can potentially mean to you, as a registered owner/lessor of a vehicle that you coded. No matter how remote the possibility...

You code off the warnings & disclaimers. Someone is in an accident & it's found the disclaimers & warnings were off. If those disclaimers & warnings would have in any way - and I mean in ANY way - prevented the accident or mitigated injury or prevented a death. And they determine someone coded the nannies off...

And the dealer didn't code them off.

And the new owner didn't code them off.

And you're the only other person who owned/leased the car & could have possibly done the coding...

Guess what happens next when the vehicle history through the VIN is traced back to you?

Why do you think BMW & every other auto manufacturer has those warnings & disclaimers? It's not to annoy you - it's because someone sued & said "but there was nothing to warn me to do or not do x, y or z..." And the auto manufacturers lost HUGE.


Just sayin'...

[BEM-S4]

Originally Posted by MASH65

You code off the warnings & disclaimers. Someone is in an accident & it's found the disclaimers & warnings were off. If those disclaimers & warnings would have in any way - and I mean in ANY way - prevented the accident or mitigated injury or prevented a death. And they determine someone coded the nannies off...

Would need an official opinion from a lawyer BUT I am fairly confident that if you trade car to dealer then they sell, it all falls on them since they must confirm car is 100% good to go. Private party sale you may have a point.

[Ft_LaudM235i]

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

Would need an official opinion from a lawyer BUT I am fairly confident that if you trade car to dealer then they sell, it all falls on them since they must confirm car is 100% good to go. Private party sale you may have a point.

That is 100% correct Sir!!

[BEM-S4]

Ha I remember some of this shit, spend all day every day with lawyers something has to soak in.

I forget the exact legalese but there's also a concept of reasonable expectation of harm - as in something I'm doing could harm someone with a probability that one would consider normal. To use a stupid example, you remove the warning labels from your sun visors no reasonable person is going to then believe that it's then safe to put an infant in a front facing seat in the front of the car because there isn't a warning sticker. Conversely if you remove all the airbags from the car for whatever reason and code it to not put out any errors, don't inform the next owner, there's a very reasonable assumption to be made that the new owner could be involved in an accident and much more seriously hurt by something you did and that injured party had no reasonable duty of care on their side to investigate the fact that you sold them a car with no airbags for whatever reason.

Same concept as you're driving 100mph in a 40mph zone and kill someone crossing the street. Did you intend to kill them? No. Is killing them a reasonable result of driving like a maniac? yes.

[pz619]

I mean the whole thing could be avoided simply by coding the defaults back in when you give the car back. That's my plan.

[omera60]

Originally Posted by BMWZ4

Thanks guys. I'll try the animation later this morning as the car has been sitting all night.

You can alternatively try to reboot the idrive by simply pressing and holding the volume knob until the screen goes black, this way you should be able to see the logo without going though the process. The problem is that whenever you are near your car, it recognizes your keys so it starts to boot things up even before you unlock it. I'm not sure, I'll have to check, but I believe if you have connected drive and use the app to locate the vehicle etc it might not go to full sleep mode anytime.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by omera60

You can alternatively try to reboot the idrive by simply pressing and holding the volume knob until the screen goes black, this way you should be able to see the logo without going though the process. The problem is that whenever you are near your car, it recognizes your keys so it starts to boot things up even before you unlock it. I'm not sure, I'll have to check, but I believe if you have connected drive and use the app to locate the vehicle etc it might not go to full sleep mode anytime.

Remote features will. I do not have any trouble with my key waking car up.

If you are concerned, you can block key signal by place between body and smartphone in pocket to block signal.

[omera60]

Originally Posted by Almaretto

Remote features will. I do not have any trouble with my key waking car up.

If you are concerned, you can block key signal by place between body and smartphone in pocket to block signal.

Thanks, will try once I have the opportunity to go to the car

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by Ft_LaudM235i

That is 100% correct Sir!!

Not 100% correct. You selling your car to the dealer doesn't absolve you of liability.

You would have to tell them you coded the car. Then, if they were to fail to put everything back, they might be 100% on the hook.

It is not expected that users go in & code their cars & turn off legal disclaimers & seat belt warnings & the like. In doing so, YOU have defeated the manufacturer's safety features, not the dealer. YOUR failure to put them back has created the hazard.

And there is no onus on the dealer to go in & check. That does not 100% absolve them, either.

This is what's called comparative or contributory negligence.

Again.. just sayin'.

[shark715]

The Bimmercode website mentions cold and warm monitoring of different lights. Exactly what does that mean? I assume it has something to do with detecting a bad bulb or circuit?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[shark715]

Several more questions.

I am about to order the recommended Wi-Fi adapter on Amazon. So long as I am ordering one of the Wi-Fi, rather than Bluetooth, models, is there any difference with the different colors offered? Just find it strange that different colors are offered (at different prices) given who would really care what color it is, and I'm wondering if the innards of the various colors are somehow different.

Also, has anyone tried expert mode? I am in the U.S. and have automatic headlights, so I'm under the impression that the anti-dazzle headlight future can be turned on in my car by working in expert mode and using the cheat sheet posted above as a reference. Anyone know if my assumptions are correct?

Finally, does Bimmercode have the ability to do battery registrations? If not, looks like I will probably be ordering a Carly also.

Thanks again.

[R0ME0]

@Almaretto
pikcachu

Any idea what the difference between us and euro alarm are?

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by R0ME0

@Almaretto
pikcachu

Any idea what the difference between us and euro alarm are?

Alarm is standard on US vehicles and optional equipment on ECE vehicles. The US alarm does not meet certain EU requirements, but unknown what that means or any further information.

[Raptor01]

Went ahead and coded a whole bunch of things in my new M240i; the application is really easy to use, so it was a breeze. Once I was done though, I found out that the auto rev-match feature would no longer work. Don't know why that is, I haven't seen anything that could be related in the settings.

Anyways... restored everything from backup, car is now back to normal. I'll probably try again later on, but in a more gradual fashion.

[JL1002]

Originally Posted by Raptor01

Went ahead and coded a whole bunch of things in my new M240i; the application is really easy to use, so it was a breeze. Once I was done though, I found out that the auto rev-match feature would no longer work. Don't know why that is, I haven't seen anything that could be related in the settings.

Anyways... restored everything from backup, car is now back to normal. I'll probably try again later on, but in a more gradual fashion.

I think a lot of people might be interested in this. I'm thankful my 235 doesn't have the auto rev match feature, so being able to code it out could be really appealing to some!

[shark715]

Ordered my Vgate yesterday and paid extra for one day Amazon delivery. And of course I can't get it to work. I'm thinking it may be defective.

I'm wondering if this unit was a return from another customer. The white "iCar" box it came in was not sealed, and the instruction sheet was folded in such a manner that it looks like it was open previously.

The instructions are horrible! Very poor translation to English. No where do the instructions mention the Power button. Only by reading back through this thread did I realize that.

Looks to me like the Vgate wifi is working fine, but the Vgate is not talking to the car. I can "see" the Vgate "network" on both my iphone and ipad. But when I try to connect I'm either told I need a Vgate for the Bimmercode app, or I get a connection error "cannot find host" message.

Looks like there are there are 3 lights on the Vgate, and I assume they are (from left to right) Wifi, handshake with car, and power. Only the Wifi light illuminates on my Vgate. The other two lights never do.

Can I assume I'm supposed to install the Vgate before I turn on the ignition/start the engine? When am I supposed to press the power button on the Vgate?

I tried the Vgate on my Porsche Macan with the same results, so I assume there's no issue with my 235.

Any suggestions other than returning this Vgate for another?

Thanks.

[BMWZ4]

Dumb question perhaps but is it pushed all the way up/in?

[shark715]

Originally Posted by BMWZ4

Dumb question perhaps but is it pushed all the way up/in?

No question is dumb at this point :-)

But I did try again and I noticed the other two lights on the Vgate blink quickly and dimly a couple of times immediately upon plugging it in with the engine/ignition turned off.

When am I suppossed to hit the power button on the Vgate, and how long should I have to hold it down?

Thanks for trying to help.

[Nyorky2428]

Originally Posted by shark715

No question is dumb at this point :-)

But I did try again and I noticed the other two lights on the Vgate blink quickly and dimly a couple of times immediately upon plugging it in with the engine/ignition turned off.

When am I suppossed to hit the power button on the Vgate, and how long should I have to hold it down?

Thanks for trying to help.

I don't think I hit the power button at all, maybe once the first time. Every time I've used it since I just plug it into the car and don't touch it otherwise

[BMWZ4]

Originally Posted by shark715

No question is dumb at this point :-)

But I did try again and I noticed the other two lights on the Vgate blink quickly and dimly a couple of times immediately upon plugging it in with the engine/ignition turned off.

When am I suppossed to hit the power button on the Vgate, and how long should I have to hold it down?

Thanks for trying to help.

Sure, no problem. just went out and tried mine again. Ignition off, plugged in the vgate. I didn't have to press the "power" button in the vgate though...connected fine. Maybe it is a bad adapter. sorry I couldn't help