[SlumsToMills]

Originally Posted by DannyM235

Technically it should work with those, but I would pick up a better pair at Lowe's or Northern tool to make sure it doesn't slip, harbor freight tool are ok for some jobs, but for tools that are used more often I would go with a better brand, but that's just my opinion it's really up to you what you think is best. But to answer your question yes, clean it up first then clamp it on the drain bolt head and pull down while turning counter clockwise and it will come out. But you have to have it cleaned up well and really clamp the vice grips on the drain bolt tight enough where it won't pull off the drain bolt head while your pulling down on the vice grips to back it out. Below is what I wrote in my original first post. Hope this helps.

"I had to get a pair of vice grips and clamp it on the drain plug and put downward pressure while at the same time rotating it to back it out."

I still havent done it yet but I found this solution. What do you think about this one??

https://ecoplugsystem.com/
Only $10 at my local auto zone!! Looks extremely promising honestly

[DannyM235]

Originally Posted by SlumsToMills

I still havent done it yet but I found this solution. What do you think about this one??

https://ecoplugsystem.com/
Only $10 at my local auto zone!! Looks extremely promising honestly

I never heard of Ecoplugs, before but I watched the video and I personally wouldn't use it. I think it's a little ugly and I wouldn't trust only a magnet to keep in all my oil in my oil pan, but that's just me. The Timsert option is much more precise repair and should be stronger than the original threads on the aluminum oil pan because it replaces them with steel threads that are the exact same size as the original OEM drain bolt. So after I installed the Timesert and let it the thread sealer/locker to dry. I replaced the drain plug with a new OEM one from the for like $5 and the repair looks like it's part of the oil pan not like an attachment. The Timesert repair is a little pricey compared to the Ecoplug option you posted, but as I mentioned before in my write up that it was only 10% of the cost to replace the entire oil pan at the dealer so for me personally it was worth the $140 or so to do the Timesert repair. The Amazon links are in my write up for the exact Timesert Repair kit and High Temp Thread locker / sealer for the N55. In the end it's totally up to you, I just wouldn't personally trust the Ecoplug repair option. If you can me know how your repair goes and what option you went with.

[Steventalon1]

Niice! I understand using the insert for the stock bolt. Why not just source a new drain plug and copper washer after tapping?

I get anxiety about leaks even though I see you used sealant.

[DannyM235]

Originally Posted by Steventalon1

Niice! I understand using the insert for the stock bolt. Why not just source a new drain plug and copper washer after tapping?

I get anxiety about leaks even though I see you used sealant.

I actually did get a new drain plug and washer from my local BMW dealer, I believe I mentioned it in the post that shows the repair process. Just checked it out the other day and no leaks at all it's holding up well.

[Steventalon1]

Nice! I meant different size, not a new oem bolt. Either way looks good and I read the whole thread ha. Keeping it oem is not a bad thing at all

[lcok12]

Originally Posted by DannyM235

So I received the time-sert today from amazon in the size M12x1.5 along with their 500 degree thread locker/sealer. I'm going to list the tools I used to do the job below as well as photos of the process in case anyone needs to perform this job on their F-series N55. But the same process can be used on most BMW models old or new.

Tools/fluids used:

3/8" ratchet
11 mm 12 point deep socket
3/8" 12 point deep socket
Tap T-handle
Can of brake cleaner
Automotive lithium grease
2 to 3 quarts of cheap 5W-30 synthetic oil to flush
Time-sert 500 degree thread locker/sealer
Blue shop towels
Clear safety glasses

Dear Danny, thank you for the detailed posts and information regarding this rethreading. I believe I have run into the same situation as you!

I would really appreciate if we could exchange contact information, so you can walk me through the stages of what you did, step by step. I have not rethreaded anything before but I have fairly mechanically savvy.

My email: louiscarter6@gmail.com

Kind Regards,
Louis

[DannyM235]

Originally Posted by lcok12

Dear Danny, thank you for the detailed posts and information regarding this rethreading. I believe I have run into the same situation as you!

I would really appreciate if we could exchange contact information, so you can walk me through the stages of what you did, step by step. I have not rethreaded anything before but I have fairly mechanically savvy.

My email: louiscarter6@gmail.com

Kind Regards,
Louis

Louis,

The first thing I did was drain the oil from the oil pan and oil filter and left the M235i on rhino ramps with the drain plug out for 3 days in my garage until I received the Timesert kit.

Once I received the Timesert kit I started out with the first step in the process which was using the supplied drill bit to remove the old threads. For this I suggest you do it by hand if you enlarge the photos I posted you will see I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 11mm deep socket to drill out the old damaged threads. I would not use a electric drill for this but it's up to you. Just make sure you start slow and make sure the bit is going in straight. Also make sure to put some grease on the drill bit to catch the filings before you start. You will need to back out the drill bit a few times during the process.

The second step is to make sure you have a T-tap handle I got mine at Northern Tool to use with the boring bit and also put grease on the boring bit as seen on the photos. The bit goes in directly into the drain hole, you will have to apply a good amount of upward pressure while turning the T-tap handle. You will know once you are done because the bit will bottom out and you won't be able to cut into the oil pan further. Also make sure to clean the drain hole after each step.

The third step is to create new threads for the Timesert to thread into. You will need to use the tap that comes in the kit and attach it to the T-tap handle and apply grease to the threads of the tap. This step is where you have to make sure you create the threads with the tap very straight. So that the Timesert goes in straight and sits flush with the oil pan. You will need to go slow for this step and create a few threads then back out the tap and then start again and create a few more. Repeat the process until you are able to thread in the entire tap into the oil pan.

The last step is to make sure to clean your newly created threads very well. I used some blue shop towels and brake cleaner to get rid of all the grease and filings. Now you can insert the Timesert with the high temperature thread locker / sealer, using the M12 x 1.5 threaded tool that comes with the kit and the T-tap handle. I was generous with the threadlocker and covered all the threads of the Timesert. I purchased the Timesert brand threadlocker at the same time I ordered the kit, instead of going to the auto parts store and getting red locktight. You will feel some resistance as you thread in the Timesert but that is normal it and suppose to happen so that it stays attached to the oil pan. Once you get past that you will have installed the Timesert properly and should have it sitting flush, wipe any excess threadlocker with a blue shop towel. I then let it dry for 48 hours but I believe the threadlocker says all you need is 24 hours just verify that on the bottle. Lastly I used 3 quarts of cheap synthetic 5W-30 oil to flush out the oil pan of any filings. I left the oil out in the sun so it would flow easily through the engine and out of the drain hole when I poured it in. For this I used 2 of the 3 quarts. I then hand tightened my new OEM BMW drain bolt and washer that I purchased at my local dealership and poured in the last quart of cheap oil and waited 30 minutes to see if there were any leaks. There were none so I then drained out the last quart of cheap oil out and proceeded with the regular oil change with 6.5 liters of BMW 0W-30 and a new oil filter with gaskets. I didn't torque the drain bolt to 25 nm like the factory specs states. I went with 20 nm for peace of mind.

Hope this helps out let me know if you have any other questions.