[Stefo]

This was installed on a 2017 M240xi.
This procedure is to fix clunking noise coming from the rack and pinion steering area. You can test this by having the engine running in idle and turning the wheel about 2-3”, quickly back and forth, to see if you get the noise. Keep in mind that when the engine is ‘off’ and you try doing the same, you will get the noise and to a certain extent this is normal, as per BMW service.
I have a light noise when going over small bumps coming from the suspension area and thought it was the steering rack but since I replaced the rack thrust piece, the noise is still there.
If you feel you have this problem and would like to tackle this, it’s fairly simple (read procedure first) and it will take about 2 hours. Parts cost $60-70
Parts needed:
Rack and pinion thrust piece replacement kit https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...106891974~oeb/ About $30
Grease https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...232208093~oeb/ About $10

Steering rack pin socket tool (about $20 from china or from MSG Equipment for $30 plus, from EU) https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...kw=32106891974
https://servicems.eu/specialnyj-inst...ring-rack.html
I got the Chinese rack pin socket tool which I had to file down the pins slightly because it did not fit. Not too difficult.

Jack up the car on both sides in the front. Be sure to secure with stands, never rely on jack alone. Remove the front shroud from underneath the engine, there is about 20 8mm screws holding this in place. Screw gun works best. This will expose the engine area and the rack and pinion steering.

Notice that the thrust piece is flush to the rack and pinion housing (run your finger nail across it to confirm). When screwing the new thrust piece in place, tighten the same amount, flush to housing (take picture if needed). (1st picture below is rotated 90 degrees)

Place pin socket tool into steering thrust piece and unscrew using an adjustable wrench or socket set if it can fit.


Using a small needle noise plyers, remove the spring and the inner trust piece.

Grease and install the new rubber seal on the screw on housing, using a 3-4mm Allen key using the BMW FB-1 grease.

Grease the new inner thrust piece, spring and screw on housing (including the o-ring) using the BMW FB-1 grease.


Install the new inner thrust piece the same orientation the old one came out. (1st Picture below is rotated 90 degrees)


Place the new spring in the middle cut out of the inner thrust piece.

Place the new screw on housing on top of the spring and tighten with the pin socket tool. This is the most difficult part of the installation. There was some resistance from the spring when installing this, so you have to press at the top of the screw on housing while at the same time turning it. Be careful not to cross thread it. When the treads catch, it should be fairly easy to turn with the wrench, if it’s hard, then it’s not in straight and possibly cross treaded. You can eye ball it to see if it’s crooked. Unscrew it and try again.
I placed a wrench on top to push it in place, then the adjustable to turn it. Like I said, it was a little difficult. (1st Picture below is rotated 180 degrees)


Tighten to as described above, (flush to the rack and pinion housing, run your finger nail across it).

At this time you can lower the car off the jacks and test drive. When making a turn, the steering wheel should return to center by itself, just like before. Loosen the screw on housing if it does not or tighten if it feels to loose. Be careful not to over tighten as this may cause the electric power steering to work too hard and may lead to premature failure.
If all ok. Jack up the car again and place the bottom engine shroud with the approximate 20 screws.
Good luck!

[Taunto]

is there an actual torque spec for that cap?

[Stanley Ipkiss]

Originally Posted by Taunto

is there an actual torque spec for that cap?

Tighten adjusting screw to 70 Nm. Then turn the steering wheel in both directions four times up to the limit position.

[Stefo]

70 Nm is correct but it is nearly impossible to get a torque wrench in there to tighten the cap unless you have some type of special tool.
If not possible, try using the method I described in the procedure (tighten flush to the housing).

[123Britt]

I just ordered the parts & tool. Absolutely love this.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Stefo

70 Nm is correct but it is nearly impossible to get a torque wrench in there to tighten the cap unless you have some type of special tool.
If not possible, try using the method I described in the procedure (tighten flush to the housing).

If you can get a crowfoot wrench on there, you can get close.

https://www.tekton.com/wrenches/crowfoot-wrenches

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

I just ordered the parts & tool. Absolutely love this.

Is this repair kit just for the ThyssenKrupp steering racks (with Variable Sport Steering)?

My car does not have VSS and the original thrust bearing looks different.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_2071

[s1xspd]

how many miles do you have? Im at over 50k and this is starting to annoy me