[kevlac]

All - I plan to put dedicated winter wheels/tired on my 2016 228i Convertible. This will be my first time doing this for any vehicle. I'm excited about the project, but want to make sure I am not over looking anything. So, please feel free to weigh in! I have searched this and other BMW forum sites. Lots of good info out there.

Based on my research, I plan to get the BBS SR wheels. I plan to downsize from my standard 17 inch wheels to 16 inch wheels. I am still debating which tire to go with.

So, here are my questions:

1. Has anyone used the BBS SR 16" wheel on their 228i? Any issues?

2. I understand I need to order the titanium grey valve sleeve/cap (not the TPMS!) from Tire Rack. What is that for?

3. Is 88 ft-lbs the correct torque for the lug nuts?

4. Sounds like I need a 17mm lug bolt socket. Can anyone recommend a quality non-marring socket? Looks like Burger Tuning has a good one. Anyone use it?

5. Has anyone used the Gorilla Extendable Power Wrench that Tire Rack sells? I'm guessing I will need that to get the factory tightened lug nuts off.

6. Can anyone comment on the accuracy/performance of the Gorilla 1/2" drive torque wrench that Tire Rack sells?

7. Any low profile jack recommendations? I will get the jack pads once I get the jack!

I promise, I'm running out of questions soon...

8. Has anyone used the Continental Conti Wintercontact TS830 P Contiseal tire?

Sorry for such a long thread and so many questions. This is my first BMW (after a very long history with Japanese cars) and I want to learn all the ins and outs. I just know that there are a lot of experienced folks on this forum that will have some good advice. Hopefully, this thread will serve other 2 Series owners.

Thanks in advance!

[BEM-S4]

Before you get all that stuff (unless you just want to have it) ask your local tire shop the fee for swapping wheels. I bought my winter setup at tire rack and my guy just changes them whenever I want for free back and forth summer / winter. I throw the kid who does it a tip but that's about it. Added benefit is they always inspect everything, let you know if something is wearing, bent rim etc.

[Sypher]

1. Make sure that the 16" rim can fit your brakes. If it's listed on Tire Rack for the car, then it likely will. I have the M brakes so, I can't comment on whether 16" will fit over standard brakes

2. You're referring to the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system). You need those to prevent the car from freaking out about not detecting TPMS.

3. I believe it's actually 106ft lb

4. You don't need any specific socket for OEM rims. Just get a 17mm chrome socket from any hardware store and it should work. Not sure about the BBS. If you want, you can order a 17mm thin walled socket from Amazon. If you're not using an impact wrench or air tools, you shouldn't be able to cause damage to it.

5. Just get a standard breaker bar. Harbour Freight has them for cheap.

6. A standard torque wrench is good enough. You don't need state of the art torque wrench for swapping wheels.

7. A quality low profile jack will set you back between $100-300 depending. Again, doesn't need to be anything really special; just make sure you get a low profile one.

8. Can't comment on this one.

[kevlac]

Thanks to those who have replied so far!

BEM-S4 - I'm looking forward to doing the swap myself. I will know the wheels are torqued to spec and so on. Plus, I won't have to lug those dirty wheels in my car. It will be a nice little project...at least until I cant get a lug undone! lol

Sypher - The titanium grey valve sleeve/cap is different than the TPMS. Tire Rack adds it to your cart if you request the TPMS to be installed. Others on this forum said you need it. I'm just wondering what is special about it. They are only a couple of bucks.

It seems like 88 (actually 88.5) ft lbs is the correct torque spec for the 2 Series. MOST (not all) BMW's made in the last few years are 90 ft-lbs.

To others following my post - Burger Tuning has great prices on a non-marring 17mm lug socket and the required jack pad. Plus, they sell a cool wheel hanger which certainly looks useful.

Finally, there is another thread that is active talking about jacks. Overwhelmingly, people are recommending the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 3 ton jack. This certainly surprised me as up until reading that thread, I'm not sure I would trust a jack from HF. Now, I think I will buy it. Here is the thread: http://http://www.2addicts.com/forum....php?t=1218366

Things are coming together! Still debating on the tires.

[Forzaaddict]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Béhème View Post
The correct torque is 140 NM/103 ft-lbs (M14 X 1.25).

See thread ''Wheel torque specs?''
+1.. 14x1.25 requires a bit more elbow grease. We always set ours at 103-105 ft-lbs

This is from another thread in the forum.

[Tpeterson]

Originally Posted by kevlac

It seems like 88 (actually 88.5) ft lbs is the correct torque spec for the 2 Series. MOST (not all) BMW's made in the last few years are 90 ft-lbs.

This torque spec is for the 12mm lug bolts BMW used on previous cars. The 2 Series has 14mm bolts, hence the higher torque requirement (103-105 lb/ft)

[XutvJet]

The Harbor Freight jack is money. Get it.

I wouldn't bother with a torque wrench. Just use a standard length breaker bar, tighten the bolt until it stops and then give the breaker bar another firm tug, typically another 1/4 turn or slightly less. That should get you into the torque range. Applying 100 lb/ft with a 15" breaker bar really isn't hard at all. I find that most people over torque lug nuts and lug bolts.

Look into a plastic rimmed 17mm socket. It will keep you from marring up the rims.

Lastly, get a BMW specific jack pad. You need it to jack up the car correctly or you'll likely end up destroying the OEM lift point.