[F87source]

This is a quick summary of my take on the malo industries crank seal plate, for a more indepth review and all the technical details (with alot of back ground and explanations) of why you need a crank seal plate and why belt failures may occur go to my main thread: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6#post27336806

Here are the reasons why you need a crank seal plate and why I think the malo industries plate is the best choice:

1) If oil (common gasket leaks, oil change), fluids (coolant leaks, rain from a vented hood), or debris gets on your serpentine belt it can slip off of the harmonic dampener and get caught behind it and end up being forced into your engine causing catastrophic engine failure. On rare instances belts can break during track use and also end up in your engine. The solution is a crank seal plate and the one I chose and like the most is the Malo industries plate.

2) Made in Canada (at the time of this writing from what I know only 3 plates are made in North America: Malo, Vac/Kies (can have fitment issues due to the ridge), Oxwerkz - not cnc constructed) - meaning good quality and great tolerances which is important because the fitment must be perfect or it will rub against the harmonic dampener and if it is not tight enough around the crank hub the belt fragments can still make it past the plate rendering it useless.

3) CNC from a single piece of billet aluminium meaning the plate is extremely strong which is important because the stresses of a belt break and being forced behind the dampener is immense.

4) Does not have the alignment ridge which may cause fitment issues because it hits the crank seal.

5) Is extremely affordable at ½ the price of many made competitor plates that are also made in North America (Vac/Kies - same plate) and made out of cnc billet aluminum.

6) Extremely robust tab design with alot of supporting material compared to other billet plates

[F87source]

I should also mention this fits the N55 and the m235i (6mt, auto, rwd or xdrive) is included.

[F87source]

Some updates

Updated Jan 27 2023:

Sorry this took so long everyone, I just didn't post my images of my own install because on the m2 you cannot remove the harmonic balancer due to how close the radiator fan sits (it doesn't affect install, just leave the balancer sitting on the subframe), and as a result I couldn't take any good quality photos. So I just left the thread as is, because there are others like ZM2 who had very good images taken when a shop installed it while doing a radiator upgrade. Anyways due to the requests I will post what images I do have:



Credit: F87source




Credit: F87source




Credit: F87source



Credit: F87source



Credit: F87source



ZM2's image

Credit: ZM2


So my final thougts. Well the plate is impeccibly designed, it fits absolutely perfectly with incredibly tight tolerances to the point that when you place the plate onto the block the tabs will seat so well it literally just stays there in place and doesn't even move. This means that an alignment ring really isn't even needed and install was not even difficult, there was no struggling trying to hold the plate in place. All I did was drop the plate in from the top, then bolt it in from the bottom. Once the bolts were torqued in the plate was perfectly aligned, I then tested clearance with a sheet of paper and there was just enough room all the way around the crank hub to avoid contact with the plate, but the clearance was so incredibly small there was no chance of any belt material ever getting in.

Other things to note, again the plate fits perfectly, no issues with it whatsoever. Another major positive as you can tell from my images, is that even when the plate was torqued down it didn't "bow" outwards due to the clockwise tightening forcing the plate inwards, this shows the plate is quite stiff and well made enough that it doesn't suffer from these issues as other plates have done (according to what I have read online). Anyways my plate sits flush to the block.


Tools required for this install:

1) 1/4" to 3/8" adapter
2) 3/8" E10 socket
3) 1/4" drive wrench with a very flat head mechanism (if the head is too large you will not get it to fit).
4) Bore scope taped to the radiator fan to see the bolts on the front crank hub.
5) A sheet of paper so you can mark down the bolts while you torque it in sequence. I colored the 1st and 5th harmonic balancer bolts so I had a reference to follow for torquing.
6) A 3/8" drive (very flat head) torque wrench for torquing.

You will use this combination of tools to remove the harmonic balancer, there is little to no room to use any other socket combination in my experience. (You can use a 3/8" to 1/4" drive adapter + a 1/4" e10 socket if you have a very thin headed 3/8" drive wrench) This is needed because you will take the socket off every time, hand seat the socket onto the bolt, then snap the wrench in before turning it. A 1/2" E10 socket is too large and will hit the crank bolt (so don't buy this with plans of using it with a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter, it is also too long). This is the only combination where I have found great success, because the sockets were the perfect length, the 3/8" to 1/4" adapter + 1/4" E10 socket was longer and the 3/8" wrench is also bigger thus constantly trying to snap on and off a 3/8" drive wrench was so much more difficult because clearance was alot tighter. It is ok if you are only going to struggle through this once during toruqing, but for doing it multiple times (remove and tightening) it is better to use the 1/4" to 3/8" adapter + 3/8" e10 socket + 1/4" wrench combo.


For the crank case bolts on the block, I used a 1/4" drive 5mm hex bit with a few super long 1/4" extensions. This way the socket doesn't rub againts the oil pan gasket. Use all 1/4" drive extensions and bits because adapters make the bit too long and it will get wedged against the oil pan gasket and get stuck.


For m2 owners:

You will remove the harmonic balancer, put it into the ridge on the subframe to rest, then put some towels or socks on either side of the blancer to wedge it and prevent it from moving. Then lean it back onto the radiator fan, it should now be quite secure.


Anyways let me know if you guys have any questions.


Coupon Code: F87source

I have an update for you guys, Malo industries has given me a 5% off coupon code for everything in their store to share with you guys - that way you guys can save some money on cool mods!

Note: I do not make any money, commission etc with this coupon code.