02-03-2016, 10:55 AM | #45 | |
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but I'm a bit confused by this statement. how is a racechip identical to a stage 1 or a scorcher? The racechip connects to a third sensor and has 9 different maps...seems to me to be in a different league than those other two. I see in your "F-chassis tune comparison" thread you cite the fact that all three of these "trick" the ECU into delivering more boost, but isn't that the basis of chip tunes in general? Does a tune such as a JB4 increase power in some different way that I am not understanding? |
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02-03-2016, 11:09 AM | #46 | |
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RC connects to MAF . The older version of the BMS stage 1 used to connect to that same sensor, but doesnt anymore because Burger Tuning did not find it useful so i would not call the extra connection an upgrade RC does have different maps and that is an upgrade When i said identical i meant in the way they make power. They add a certain amount of boost with no additional features RC is a good tune, but it is not in any way in a different league when compared to AFE and BMS
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02-03-2016, 11:38 AM | #47 | |
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Also, I think it would be helpful if I knew for myself what all these different sensors actually do. Is there somewhere I can find an explanation of this that a layman could understand? |
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02-03-2016, 01:12 PM | #48 |
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As far as I know, all any of them do is trick the DME into thinking it's putting out LESS boost than spec and then the DME bumps up the boost to the level it thinks it supposed to be..(equating to about a 4lb bump) and more HP. The piggybacks monitor a few variables/sensors but the flashed tune looks at the entire picture (or at least MORE of the picture than piggybacks and is thus considered a theoretically safer option.)
My flash tuned SS never hiccupped in 17yrs of usage but isn't near as high tech of an engine as our turbo 4s/6s are......
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03-09-2016, 05:01 PM | #49 |
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Just to close out this thread, at least for me, I ended up picking the AA8 piggy-back tune. The guys at GSR were very helpful, but I just couldn't get my head around a mod that couldn't be COMPLETELY undone if required, since the car is very new, and I don't yet know how mod-tolerant my dealer is.
I wrote up the install here... http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1233814 It's only been a few days, and the car is still adapting to the tune, but so far I'm very happy. |
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03-09-2016, 05:08 PM | #50 | |
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Thank you for going with us as your vendor
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03-13-2016, 07:39 PM | #51 |
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What's the risk of a stage 1 tune whether piggy back or ecu flash on the n20. I have seen some articles showing n20 is a weak engine and have blown rods . Is this with the above tunes or more aggressive with down pipes added etc? Just got a ecu tune and have been driving a little more aggressive than I used to and potentially the issue that might happen on stock engine .
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03-13-2016, 09:36 PM | #52 | |
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03-13-2016, 11:12 PM | #53 | |
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03-17-2016, 09:33 AM | #54 |
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03-17-2016, 10:34 AM | #55 |
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That is true, but how often is the customer satisfied with current power levels? They always seem to want more and having easy access to changing maps on PiggyBacks can prove to be dangerous for those individuals. Having a flash limited to "safer" power levels means that customer has no ability to keep on cranking up the boost and thus lowering the chance of possible issues.
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03-17-2016, 12:28 PM | #56 | |
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Having the flexibly and choice to pick different maps on the fly should be considered a pro for these piggys not a con I think people are smart enough not to run maps too aggressive for their cars and those that do know that they are taking full responsibility in case anything goes wrong. I never had this problem with any of our customers
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05-18-2016, 12:02 PM | #57 |
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is Map1 on the Stage 1 and Stage 2 HB4 the same map? IAll i plan on is a MPE and maybe an intake. on my F10 N55, i had the same mods plus a JB4 stage 2 but kept it on the same Map5.
taking cost out of the equation, for the N20 with MPE and maybe intake, is there any reason to go with the Stage 2? |
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06-02-2016, 11:15 PM | #58 |
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Active 8 tune from Active Autowerke - now my 228i outputs 300 lb ft of torque - I live on a hill so every time I come back from work I enjoy 15 seconds of pure bliss. It is a piggy back box. Have driven about 5000 miles so far on it - Very Very Happy
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08-02-2016, 08:13 PM | #59 |
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I just got my 228ix and it is plenty quick enough for me. Now I am an older guy and had my share of fast tuned rides so I definitely see the advantages and temptation of the reasonable tune options on the market. My advice would be to break it in, and see if it meets your expectations. The only thing I may add is a better sounding exhaust. The stock is a little weak sounding to me. Good luck, I love mine.
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08-10-2016, 05:35 PM | #60 | |
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08-14-2016, 08:09 AM | #61 |
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Hey guys! Didn't want to open a new thread and asking here for advice. I live in Germany and want to get a box with decent gains in performance for N20 in my 220i, without upgrading anything else. Choosing between BMS stage 1, JB4 or DTE systems. Last one is German company with huge experience, offering products with certification and motor guarantie (+30 PS and +50 Nm on crank) www.chiptuning.com you can choose English language. Box uses 3 sensors: manifold air pressure, boost pressure and camshaft. Looks like AA8 tune but without air mass sensor. I can get BMS tunes here in Germany shop, but I am struggling if JB4 is much better option since it connected to CAN bus but not to camshaft and if makes a huge difference? Another thing is that JB4 is made in USA and not that popular here in Germany, so is it worth it?
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03-10-2019, 07:05 AM | #62 | |
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03-11-2019, 04:08 PM | #63 |
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There is a lot of great info in these posts. I have had a Dinan installed for over 18 months. When Dinan upgraded to the Stage 1 V2 the change produced all the power I was looking for and since you live in CA I'll offer this little tidbit, I had my F22 checked out by a local SMOG shop and it passed. Dinan is working on an upgrade to make the V2 even smoother. And one last thing, no error codes since installing the V2.
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