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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics N55 (M235i) Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Tuning Free Oil Cooler Bypass DIY

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      07-02-2019, 10:10 PM   #1
jondagger
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Free Oil Cooler Bypass DIY

Has anyone done the oil cooler bypass on our n55? Can someone chime in on the mechanics behind the opening of the oil cooler to allow fluid to get to the cooler?

I am looking for the DIY version in which we invert the location of the piston already in place. Lodging the piston inside the chambe in putting the spring on top, versus the spring going in first and the piston on top. Is it safe to do such a conversion. The oil will now always run through the cooler. Will the piston every get stuck in the chamber? What are some cons?

Some insight would be great as to what benefits have been noticed. I am hitting as high as 247F oil temps in this summer heat and need to solve this quick.
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      07-03-2019, 07:27 AM   #2
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BUMP, need some feedback on DIY oil cooling upgrades. I am hitting insane oil temperatures. I might have a bad fan or something, but looking into other things proatively.
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      07-03-2019, 09:04 AM   #3
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What are you seeing? 244F is normal for our cars. Although with MHD's recent flash option for cooling, my oil temps sit in the 205-212F range.
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      07-03-2019, 09:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2THIRTY5 View Post
What are you seeing? 244F is normal for our cars. Although with MHD's recent flash option for cooling, my oil temps sit in the 205-212F range.
Exactly ^

trying to aid the issue until BM3 releases the coolant flash, currently in the works.

Its just i burned through 0.5qt in 600 miles running a new low viscosity oil, doing hard logs, and on ambient temps of 100F. I saw coolant drop to 180 to compensate and oil went from 247 to 220 while coasting. Already changed to thicker oil but need a fix. This burning oil thing is brand new to me, also it is the first time i choose my own oil. Looks like BMWs oil is actually pretty damn good.

Id rather not have my oil spike in temps. Coolant = engine block... oil cooler = oil...
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      07-03-2019, 09:51 AM   #5
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The mod you're looking at only really applies to non-M235/M2 N55 cars which have different oil cooling systems. The M235 has an effective and robust oil cooling system in place. 220-250 degree oil temps are completely normal and my stock tune M235 routinely sees 240-250 degree oil temps during normal or hard driving. Today's oils can easily handle these temps over the long term. The M235's oil cooling system shouldn't let the temps go over 260 degrees and many have verified this with heavy track use. Bottom line, oil cooling isn't an issue on the M235.

Given your power level, it's not surprising that you're consuming oil at that rate. It's the nature of the beast pushing way more power than stock. The piston rings simply aren't designed for such heavy pressures. As a protective lubricating measure, you should be using a heavier weight oil (sounds like you are) because of the power, ethanol, meth, and climate you live in. You should also be changing the oil every 3k to 5K miles or at least run a few used oil analysis tests to see how it holds up to those power levels.
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      07-03-2019, 10:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
The mod you're looking at only really applies to non-M235/M2 N55 cars which have different oil cooling systems. The M235 has an effective and robust oil cooling system in place. 220-250 degree oil temps are completely normal and my stock tune M235 routinely sees 240-250 degree oil temps during normal or hard driving. Today's oils can easily handle these temps over the long term. The M235's oil cooling system shouldn't let the temps go over 260 degrees and many have verified this with heavy track use. Bottom line, oil cooling isn't an issue on the M235.

Given your power level, it's not surprising that you're consuming oil at that rate. It's the nature of the beast pushing way more power than stock. The piston rings simply aren't designed for such heavy pressures. As a protective lubricating measure, you should be using a heavier weight oil (sounds like you are) because of the power, ethanol, meth, and climate you live in. You should also be changing the oil every 3k to 5K miles or at least run a few used oil analysis tests to see how it holds up to those power levels.
Thanks for the in depth response good to hear. I have a Blackhawk sample container on my desk at home, considering sending it out. Thanks for the input to change oil more often.

For peace of mind, I do want to find a cheap yet effective way to reduce the temps and overall utilize my oil cooler proactively, versus re-actively. Inverting the piston location sounds like a good solution if it works. BMS piston replacement follows the same method, just newly designed piston.
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      07-04-2019, 03:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdag001 View Post
Exactly ^

trying to aid the issue until BM3 releases the coolant flash, currently in the works.

Its just i burned through 0.5qt in 600 miles running a new low viscosity oil, doing hard logs, and on ambient temps of 100F. I saw coolant drop to 180 to compensate and oil went from 247 to 220 while coasting. Already changed to thicker oil but need a fix. This burning oil thing is brand new to me, also it is the first time i choose my own oil. Looks like BMWs oil is actually pretty damn good.

Id rather not have my oil spike in temps. Coolant = engine block... oil cooler = oil...
coolant flash? how does this work what does it do?
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      07-04-2019, 09:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristosD View Post
coolant flash? how does this work what does it do?
Makes the coolant run like a true M car.. cooler is activated earlier to cool engine block proactively. Track days gone wild!
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