06-12-2019, 06:28 PM | #1 |
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M235i bootmod stage 1 or 2 reliability
I'm going to be doing catless downpipe, Chargepipe, intercooler, new plugs & just changed all my fluids . My question is which tune should I do ? Stage 1 or 2 .
My main concern is losing reliability. This is why I'm doing all the mods to prevent any issues . Any help or input with the reliability would be great . Thanks guys . |
06-12-2019, 06:36 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2015 BMW M235i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: ontario
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been running same mods on stage 2 bm3 for over 2 years. 0 issues and still on stock plugs. I switched to 5w40 oil because it seemed like the bmw 0w30 was breaking down quite fast when I increased power.
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06-12-2019, 06:38 PM | #3 |
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Have you had to change your clutch ? Wondering if stock clutch can handle the power increase
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06-12-2019, 06:42 PM | #4 | |
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Drives: 2015 BMW M235i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: ontario
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Last edited by amw896; 06-26-2019 at 11:00 AM.. |
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06-12-2019, 06:45 PM | #5 | ||
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06-12-2019, 08:55 PM | #6 |
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There is certainly an impact on reliability when you increase a motor's HP/TQ by 25%+. It's harder in everything. The N55 M2 is a perfect example of what BMW believes is the safe cap for the N55. That's approximately 330whp and 360wtq. Your M235 has the same block, turbo, rods, bearings, and crank as the M2. The N55 M2 gets the pistons from the S55 and has a better oil pump and windage tray for high sustained G's in turns.
SO, running BM3 Stage 2 will push your car into the 370-380whp/400wtq+ range. That level of power well above what BMW saw fit as safe in the M2 N55 and was the most powerful N55 to date. Sure, you can run that level of Stage 2 power, but you should be aware that with every mod, you introduce new aftermarket part or programming and as many of know, BMW's DME can be very picky. Even in stock form, the N55 is pretty hard on plugs and coils. Add a lot of power and it can become an issue. Many people have no issues running Stage 2 on the BM3. However, many other people have all sorts of annoying issues, CELs, etc. The 2 series forum isn't a good place to research as it's a small group. You need to also research the M2 and 3/4 series N55 forums. In there, you'll see many issues reported, especially when running Stage 2. Up to about 3 months ago, I was convinced I was going to flash tune. Now I'm not quite so sure now that more cars are flash tuned and more and more are having annoying issues. If you're not a DIY/trouble-shooting type of person or have a 2nd car to use, this may not be the path you want to do down.
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06-13-2019, 07:59 AM | #7 | |
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I think will continue driving my n55 with AA FMIC+MPPK+MPE currently installed. |
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06-13-2019, 12:14 PM | #8 |
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Thousands of people are running BM3 or MHD, the vast majority aren't having issues. The few issues that have cropped up are from people not logging their car for fuel quality or incorrectly installing supporting mods. If you do your homework, test and verify everything is running properly there's no reason to be worried. The accessibility of these flash tunes means the people who don't read, don't log, don't know how to turn a wrench end up having issues. Read read read, select your mods based on people's experiences and verify.
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06-13-2019, 12:32 PM | #9 |
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I think anything on standard fuels, stage 2 and below you're running a pretty "safe" tune, imo, with BM3/MHD.
I know these cars can't put down much over the 400whp mark under 3rd on a road course, so it's useless from a performance perspective anyway. Roll/drag racing, different story lol
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06-13-2019, 02:17 PM | #10 | |
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With that said, most BMWs flash fine and a select few don't take to it well even when all the directions are followed. These flash tunes aren't tried and true. That's for sure. It's not like a device/platform you get from a multi-million dollar software and electronics company. There are issues and users should be prepared. It's also not the most easy software to navigate. Then there's whole thing about the added power. Yes, the N55 can "hold" a lot more power than stock under ideal scenarios, but there is head room built in for things like atmospheric conditions, fuel grade, load, etc. When you increase the power, you start venturing out the threshold of how quickly the DME can react, say a super knock event, ultra lean condition that comes on without warning. If it's bad enough, it might not be caught and the knock might make your piston/rod hammer right through the oil film between the rod bearing and spin it. If you don't have at least $5-10K set aside to fix a blown motor, tuning might not be for you. There is certainly a risk involved.
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Last edited by XutvJet; 06-13-2019 at 02:25 PM.. |
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06-26-2019, 01:57 AM | #11 | ||
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Well put! Yes, you can eke more power out the motor by exploiting the safety margins somewhere in-between what the manufacture deem a safe power output and what is considered maxing out the engine's tolerance but at the cost of vehicle's reliability. All these aftermarket tunes don't really take into account the longevity of the drivetrain but instead bypasses the factory safety parameters and skew the boost/load, in attempt to squeeze out every ounce of juice they can out of the motor, so they can put it on their advertisements to push sales to power-hungry consumers. This is done without taking into consideration the advancing of timing, fuel quality and air density; leaving critical monitored components to the responsibility of the end user, which was usually already factored in the safe, factory mapping. There two members here and on M2 section I can personally site who tune, boost and blew the crap out of their motor. These guys quietly disappear in oblivion because they don't care to highlight their shortcomings and all that's left is rookies who now believe a aftermarket tunes are the truth. The fact is this motor was not built to substantiate more than 400hp. I say the N55 can take like 350hp/tq safety before you start pushing past the machine's limitations. If you plan of keeping your vehicle for awhile, I suggest you skip the harsh aftermarket flash tunes that prematurely burns out the drivetrain and instead get a vehicle that can adequately satiate your power demands. http://mywikimotors.com/n55b30/ |
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06-27-2019, 09:28 AM | #12 |
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I think there's a little more room left in the tq department than 350 as the stock N55 in the M2 routinely puts down 360wtq on the Dynojet which equates to around 425tq at the flywheel. In stock form, the M235 makes around 330wtq or 390tq.
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06-28-2019, 01:22 AM | #13 |
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Go with a stage 2, no reliability issues with any of the off the shelf maps (as long as you have recommended mods and fuel)
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07-03-2019, 04:19 PM | #14 |
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Good discussion to have. Just wanted to add reliability on the street and reliability on the track are different as well. Doing pulls a few times vs pulls for 20 minutes straight a couple times a day are very different.
For instance, even on a stock tune, I saw 134F IATs with a stock intercooler at 80F ambient (top of 3rd). Even if you add an intercooler, a tune will create more heat generally, especially at the top end. There is also a lot to be said about the time that goes into a tune from an OEM vs a tuner. Not to say all tuners are negligent or partial solutions, but consider that when choosing a platform and the support that's offered. And an aggressive street tune doesn't make a good track tune. |
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03-30-2020, 03:16 PM | #15 |
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BM3 Stage 0+ M2 for M235i
This Free OTS Map does look attractive and one that I will be running until I get a downpipe. I do have a VRSF IC & CP . Looking forward to the BM3 and running this M2 OTS coupled with data logs, should help me understand the car prior to Stage 2.
Speaking of Stage 2 -- I am thinking that the Stage 2 91 Octane is a good approach even though I have 93 Octane in my area. This is to ensure clean timing. . |
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03-31-2020, 11:05 PM | #16 |
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I have been really enjoying the M2 Stage 0+ tune. Very noticeable power bump and manageable. Powerband feels linear, like stock, and not as peaky as the stage 1 or 2 tune.
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04-01-2020, 01:12 PM | #17 |
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