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      01-21-2017, 02:12 PM   #1
peterdf
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How to lift car for an oil change

I want to perform oil changes myself between the warranty-covered oil changes, and I'm having trouble figuring out how to lift it. I've read that the car needs to be level in order to drain oil properly, but I'm not sure how I can do that without 4 ramps. My garage also has a slight grading towards the garage door, so even then I'm not sure I can lift it evenly. Without ramps, would it be possible to just jack up the front of the car and do the oil change that way? Otherwise, I have no idea how I'd life the car evenly with the jack, unless I leave one rear corner with the jack, and the other 3 corners with jack stands.
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      01-21-2017, 02:32 PM   #2
123Britt
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Ramps for OIL CHANGE

The RhinoGear 11909 RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp
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      01-21-2017, 03:39 PM   #3
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I use a Arcan 3-ton jack (with ReverseLogic jack pad tool) to lift front drivers side (lift about 8 inches) and double chuck diagonal wheel.
Then I place an appropriate short jack stand under suspension inner lower attachment to body and a wood block under center frame lift point.
Then with a shallow drain pan situated appropriately I get under to flip open drai door and loosen drain pan bolt.
Once oil flows, I remove center wood block and jack stand, then carefully lower floor jack to make car almost level without cracking drain pan. Wait till it drains, jack back up and reinstall wood block and jack stand, replace drain plug gasket and plug, tighten bolt to spec, and thankfull car didn't drop while I was underneath.

Last edited by ScottSinger; 04-14-2018 at 11:28 AM..
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      01-22-2017, 06:20 PM   #4
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Level is a relative term re oil changes - you don't need to get a perfect "make the noise" kind of level, just good enough to drain. A pair of ramps are a good safe easy way for diy oil changes, you don't need all four wheels in the air.

I wouldn't want to be under a car that's on a jack.
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      01-23-2017, 07:05 AM   #5
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I'll second what 123Britt said on the Rhino Ramps.
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      01-23-2017, 07:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude View Post
I'll second what 123Britt said on the Rhino Ramps.
Which model Rhino Ramps won't run against bottom off 235 front air dams and underbody tabs ?
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      01-23-2017, 10:51 AM   #7
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Thinking about the many thousands of times I've jacked up a car and the many thousands of more times I'm going to, I finally decided to quit wasting time with jacks and ramps. So, I treated my self to a QuickJack. Yea, it's pricey at $999 but, it saves so much time and head ache it is worth it. There are many manufacturers of these portable jacks out there, I bought the BL-3500SLX Car Lift because it is compact relatively light and has a very low profile (Hey, there are no SUVs in this household ). Best part you can hang the whole system up on the garage wall when you're not using it.

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      01-23-2017, 10:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
Which model Rhino Ramps won't run against bottom off 235 front air dams and underbody tabs ?
It is a close fit, if you're talking about the flexible rubber tabs, no biggie as they can handle flexing. All I do is run some painters tape on my white front lip edge, no big deal at all. If your car is lowered or you have a splitter, you will have problems.
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      01-24-2017, 01:52 PM   #9
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eek...3,500 lb capacity? Cutting it close no?
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      01-25-2017, 11:14 AM   #10
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Cutting it close yes! Actually a little over, my convertible is 3692lbs.
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      02-09-2017, 06:39 PM   #11
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Have you consider using a Topsider or something similar? The one time I used one it worked flawlessly.
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      02-13-2017, 05:33 PM   #12
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Don't forget to figure out if you have the plastic oil pan or the metal one. I bought a magnetic 17mm drain plug as I always do and when I got the 228 up and went under I had the plastic 10mm hex plug and the plastic oil pan. Apparently the metal one uses the 17mm plug.
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      02-16-2017, 01:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Don't forget to figure out if you have the plastic oil pan or the metal one. I bought a magnetic 17mm drain plug as I always do and when I got the 228 up and went under I had the plastic 10mm hex plug and the plastic oil pan. Apparently the metal one uses the 17mm plug.
Plastic 10mm hex for the oil drain????? Doesn't sound right to me
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      02-17-2017, 04:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Don't forget to figure out if you have the plastic oil pan or the metal one. I bought a magnetic 17mm drain plug as I always do and when I got the 228 up and went under I had the plastic 10mm hex plug and the plastic oil pan. Apparently the metal one uses the 17mm plug.
Plastic 10mm hex for the oil drain????? Doesn't sound right to me
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11427640862/

Plastic drain plug. 10mm Hex.
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      02-20-2017, 01:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude View Post
Plastic 10mm hex for the oil drain????? Doesn't sound right to me
It's on the RWD 228i.A new plug comes with the oil filter and it is self torquing to spec,8 Newton meters,I think. The 228Xi and, I assume, the M235i have steel pans. It was unnerving to see such a fragile looking plug coming out of the pan, and such low tightening torque, but the new one went in fine ,no leaks,no loosening.
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      02-20-2017, 08:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpeterson View Post
It's on the RWD 228i.A new plug comes with the oil filter and it is self torquing to spec,8 Newton meters,I think. The 228Xi and, I assume, the M235i have steel pans. It was unnerving to see such a fragile looking plug coming out of the pan, and such low tightening torque, but the new one went in fine ,no leaks,no loosening.
I just did my oil change today after getting a 10mm hex socket. Went in no fuss.
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      02-24-2017, 03:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdputnam View Post
Yea, it's pricey at $999 but, it saves so much time and head ache it is worth it.
If only the car on it could be had for 10 times that much, like they were 5-6 years ago ...

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      04-14-2018, 11:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idontkickpuppies View Post
Have you consider using a Topsider or something similar? The one time I used one it worked flawlessly.
I've actually been wondering the same thing.
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      04-14-2018, 11:34 AM   #19
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There isn't a dipstick for the oil, so it is virtually impossible to use a vacuum oil extractor.
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      04-14-2018, 10:19 PM   #20
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front, cener jack point.
rear, rear diff.
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      04-30-2018, 02:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInfante View Post
Don't forget to figure out if you have the plastic oil pan or the metal one. I bought a magnetic 17mm drain plug as I always do and when I got the 228 up and went under I had the plastic 10mm hex plug and the plastic oil pan. Apparently the metal one uses the 17mm plug.

That is a GREAT tip!!

I use the 10mm hex plug on my setup...and it works fine!! It's totally strange to only torque to 8Nm!!


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      04-30-2018, 02:23 PM   #22
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With such low stance, I had to use the two floor jack approach.

1. 2 ton jack lift at front driver side lifting point
2. with BMW in the air about 6 or 8 inches, then used 3 ton jack at front center lifting point
3. Jack BMW up enough to place ramps under each front tire
4. Lowered BMW onto ramps and removed 3 ton jack

Performed oil change, per normal process. Then reverse the lifting procedure above.

NOT terribly difficult, but more of a process than other vehicles I've owned...and performed oil changes on.

Definitely will be purchasing a high quality low profile Alum floor jack!!


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