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      01-25-2015, 06:50 AM   #23
topcat
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Just picked up my 2015 M235i on Thursday from Pacific BMW in Glendale. Unlike Topcat, i'v been waiting 4 months (but then I had the M-Performance Limited Slip installed and I guess the port gets all the simple clean up and deliver cars out of the way before tackling things like that). Also unlike Topcat I drove straight back up I5 as I am suffering from a heavy cold and just wanted to get home.
My wait was less but I know what you're talking about in regards to the Limited Slip Install. I had it port installed also. My car arrived on Jan. 13th, carrier officially released it 1/14. Sat untouched until 1/21 when we finally found out it was on the lift getting the LSD installed, exhaust, diffuser, front splitter, mirror caps installed. Done at port 1/22, trucked to dealership 1/23 and I flew in 1/24. Wasn't sure I was going to get her but it worked out.

As for LSD port installs there is only 1 main engineer that can install them. BMW is extremely particular about this because when port installed you get a full 4/50k warranty on the LSD and they want it done right. If dealer installed you get 2 years coverage not 4yrs. Not to say that dealerships don't have good mechanics they just aren't all as skilled as the rest.

As for break in I'm taking it easy. Haven't been over 4k yet and will just be nice to her for the recommended 1200 miles. I'm patient
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      01-25-2015, 07:08 AM   #24
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OP, grats on your car BTW !!and I hope you're on the mend.

I see you live in Pleasanton. My bro in law lives there and I visit him pretty regularly. Maybe we'll have a spotting in the future.

Last edited by topcat; 01-25-2015 at 07:08 AM.. Reason: Spelling correction
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      01-25-2015, 07:46 AM   #25
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FWIW - any we know this is controversial

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The key is loading the engine. Full throttle for 80% of RPM while in 3rd-4th gear, while in the first 20 miles, with engine warm.

All my bikes and cars are done this way and personally, I feel like my 328i N26 is much stronger than the loaners with same motor I've driven

I personally subscribe to this method on the street. If you're gonna run it hard, make sure it's warmed up and make sure you have space to do it while your tires and brakes wear in.
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      01-25-2015, 12:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazzo View Post
FWIW - any we know this is controversial

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The key is loading the engine. Full throttle for 80% of RPM while in 3rd-4th gear, while in the first 20 miles, with engine warm.

All my bikes and cars are done this way and personally, I feel like my 328i N26 is much stronger than the loaners with same motor I've driven

I personally subscribe to this method on the street. If you're gonna run it hard, make sure it's warmed up and make sure you have space to do it while your tires and brakes wear in.
Your engine is stronger than others due to your break in procedure? C'mon.
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      01-25-2015, 01:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi View Post
Just do what the manufacture says would you want to pay out on a warranty claim if the car is not run for a period and has not be adhered to.

Only BMW staff can advise the correct method.
Quote:
Originally Posted by my M25i owner's manual
Breaking-in period

General information

Moving parts need to be broken in to adjust to each other.
The following instructions will help achieve a long vehicle life and good economy.
Engine and differential

Always obey the official speed limit.
Up to 1,200 miles/2,000 km

Do not exceed the maximum engine and road speed:
  • 4,500 rpm and 100 mph/160 km/h.
Avoid full load or kickdown under all circumstances.
From 1,200 miles/2,000 km

The engine and vehicle speed can gradually be increased.
Tires

Due to technical factors associated with their manufacture, tires do not achieve their full traction potential until after an initial breaking-in period.
Drive conservatively for the first 200 miles/300 km.
Brake system

Brakes require an initial break-in period of approx. 300 miles/500 km to achieve optimized contact and wear patterns between brake discs and brake pads. Drive moderately during this break-in period.
Clutch

The function of the clutch reaches its optimal level only after a distance driven of approx. 300 miles/500 km. During this break-in period, engage the clutch gently.
Following part replacement

The same breaking in procedures should be observed if any of the components mentioned above have to be renewed in the course of the vehicle's operating life.
Above is a "cut and paste" from my online owner's manual. It's exactly what my delivery specialist told me at the Welt last March.
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      01-25-2015, 03:04 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 335BOY View Post
Your engine is stronger than others due to your break in procedure? C'mon.
It feels stronger than any other similar 328s I've driven and it's noticeable.

Whether it because of the break in would be speculation without a tear down of both in a controlled environment, not unlike the testing done referred to in the article. You and I both know that, so stop with the assumptions and semantics.

Did you read it? Do you have evidence this article is bogus?
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      01-25-2015, 07:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazzo View Post
FWIW - any we know this is controversial

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The key is loading the engine. Full throttle for 80% of RPM while in 3rd-4th gear, while in the first 20 miles, with engine warm.

All my bikes and cars are done this way and personally, I feel like my 328i N26 is much stronger than the loaners with same motor I've driven

I personally subscribe to this method on the street. If you're gonna run it hard, make sure it's warmed up and make sure you have space to do it while your tires and brakes wear in.

This is the method I've always found to be the best. You want a good load on the engine climbing through the rev-range. WOT in low gears doesn't give the necessary load and everything spins up too quickly. A nice engine load throughout the rev range varying revs gets things working nicely.
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      01-25-2015, 08:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nike001 View Post
This is the method I've always found to be the best. You want a good load on the engine climbing through the rev-range. WOT in low gears doesn't give the necessary load and everything spins up too quickly. A nice engine load throughout the rev range varying revs gets things working nicely.
Yep for BMW Cars, you can load the engine better in the 3-4th gear, because you will not exceed the 4500 rpm or the 100mph suggestions for the first couple hundred miles.

Far more manufactures specify driving in hilly conditions or frequently varying engine rpms and speed. This loads the engine properly when accelerating and decelerating.

Mazda specifically states to do for this for the first 200 miles.

Verbatim from the BMW Motorcycle manual.
Breaking in - Engine
While running in the motorcycle, vary the throttle opening and engine-speed range frequently; avoid driving for long periods at a constant speed. Choose curvy, slightly hilly sections of road if possible.

It's actually fun to break in if you're in the hills/curves and downshifting going down hill/entering curves and going heavy on the throttle uphills and through the apex of the corner. Doing this while going easy on the brakes.
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      01-26-2015, 07:48 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazzo View Post
It feels stronger than any other similar 328s I've driven and it's noticeable.

Whether it because of the break in would be speculation without a tear down of both in a controlled environment, not unlike the testing done referred to in the article. You and I both know that, so stop with the assumptions and semantics.

Did you read it? Do you have evidence this article is bogus?
I don't but I'm pretty sure nobody here could feel +/- 5 hp. Very clinical test too......out of loaner, go inside to retrieve your car (15 mins) hop in and its noticeably slower. I guess it could happen but until you do side by side comparo I'm not buying it. I'm a believer in break in period but Lots of people don't do any break in with zero problems. I really doubt that virtually every manufacturer in the world is wrong and this guy is right. Interesting article but......

Last edited by 335BOY; 01-26-2015 at 07:59 AM..
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      01-26-2015, 08:54 AM   #32
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Drive it like it was stolen and the payment is being made by someone else !

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      01-26-2015, 05:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335BOY View Post
I don't but I'm pretty sure nobody here could feel +/- 5 hp. Very clinical test too......out of loaner, go inside to retrieve your car (15 mins) hop in and its noticeably slower. I guess it could happen but until you do side by side comparo I'm not buying it. I'm a believer in break in period but Lots of people don't do any break in with zero problems. I really doubt that virtually every manufacturer in the world is wrong and this guy is right. Interesting article but......
Where did you get the +/- 5hp figure from?

The gain in HP can be as much as 10%, as tested. That's 24HP from a 240HP motor.
If you take the delta between this method and a poorly run motor it can be as much as double. Even with a 5% loss/gain between the 2, that equates to 20HP. There are people doing mods that hope they 20hp from a 240HP engine.

The article is a side by side compare and with >300 engines tested.
Why not do some research on your own? There are plenty of racing teams that break in the same way. And guess what, they're rebuilding motors all the time.

There's a lot of "I really doubts, you can't and I'm not buying" in many of your posts. Thanks for your continued "subjective" contributions.
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      01-26-2015, 07:51 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazzo View Post
Where did you get the +/- 5hp figure from?

The gain in HP can be as much as 10%, as tested. That's 24HP from a 240HP motor.
If you take the delta between this method and a poorly run motor it can be as much as double. Even with a 5% loss/gain between the 2, that equates to 20HP. There are people doing mods that hope they 20hp from a 240HP engine.

The article is a side by side compare and with >300 engines tested.
Why not do some research on your own? There are plenty of racing teams that break in the same way. And guess what, they're rebuilding motors all the time.

There's a lot of "I really doubts, you can't and I'm not buying" in many of your posts. Thanks for your continued "subjective" contributions.
You said yourself that this break in procedure may not be the reason your car feels more powerful. Why don't any manufacturers suggest this method?
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      01-26-2015, 09:04 PM   #35
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Mazda does and so does BMW Motocycles. The 2 I'm familiar with. I mentioned this in post #30 above.
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      02-19-2015, 10:46 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gate7 View Post
There is no 1200 service for n55 engine and never heard of rev limiter installed by the dealer on this car.
The F80/82/83 has required maintenance at 1200 miles. BMW covers the oil and diff fluid change under the maintenance warranty. The DCT cars (maybe the 6MT also) are equipped with a rev limiter that is removed by the dealership performing the fluid changes.
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      02-19-2015, 07:04 PM   #37
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Just hit 1200 miles yesterday!!


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      02-20-2015, 09:25 AM   #38
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Stand on it!
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      02-21-2015, 01:45 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaijin
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gate7 View Post
There is no 1200 service for n55 engine and never heard of rev limiter installed by the dealer on this car.
The F80/82/83 has required maintenance at 1200 miles. BMW covers the oil and diff fluid change under the maintenance warranty. The DCT cars (maybe the 6MT also) are equipped with a rev limiter that is removed by the dealership performing the fluid changes.
M3/m4 doesn't use n55.

FAIL.
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