[jmwilson125]

I have been doing some coilovers research for a while now and am looking for some opionions.

What I am looking for in a coilovers is;
-build quality
-performance
- easy of use
-stock ride height as an option

What I am not looking for -
- junk quality
- super expensive with 10,000 options
( I am not going to be on the track every day, taking a hot lap, adjusting compression one click, then taking another hot lap)
-options that will slam the car down low
- options that are comfort friendly "great on the track and also super plush and comfortable on the road" (to me that is just marketing wank, you will always loose performance for comfort imho, correct me if I'm wrong)

I was hoping there would be something in the $1500-2500 range. So far it seems like Ohlins fit my description pretty well. Bilstein b10s are a cheaper option, but from reading the description it sounds more like a 'comfort friendly" option.

Are there any simple quality options out there? Or does quality always go hand in hand with the 10,000 way adjustable, high speed compression, low speed compression, preload, high speed rebound, and low speed rebound.

I come from mountain biking, and setting up the suspension can be pretty overwhelming. You don't need a track, or special tools or a lift to make adjustments on that.

[jmwilson125]

FYI my car is fbo + meth. HRE wheels 235/265. Dinan springs and bump stops. M4 lca + ts.

I bring the car to a few hpde's a yeah and plan to do them more frequently. I also am planning on adding an lsd at some point.

Currently I get a small amount of rub which is why the ride height being set to stock or higher than Dinan will be beneficial.

I may look at camber plates down the road as well.

[aozer]

KW variant 1 is a pretty popular choice for entry level coilovers. No adjustments other than height and KW is a reputable brand.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by aozer

KW variant 1 is a pretty popular choice for entry level coilovers. No adjustments other than height and KW is a reputable brand.

Thank you, I will check those out. Based on the description is says optimal between "sporty and comfort". That's the only thing that worries me, that they won't be sporty enough.

Also I'll add that I do have access to scales, so I will be able to corner ballance. I believe I should be able to calculate the ideal spring rate with the scales as well.

I have been researching that as well. One of the appeals with the Ohlins is that you can select spring rates. (Free in the rear and 20% off in the front)

I do want to set it up correctly, just don't want to be tinking with it every weekend.

[Sail Boat]

If you can go with the Ohlins, I would recommend that route. To save a bit of $, I think the KW V3 is the best option.

The KW V3 for the F2X/F3X can be had for $2,300 shipped - I paid that amount just 3 months ago. Also I'd point out that KW's are usually available for shipment. I know the Bilstein PSS lines are back ordered for a few more months and cheaper brands like BC require 1-2 months since parts come from Taiwan and need to be assembled here.

A few notes about the V3:

1) Some of the highest quality coils on the market. Stainless bodies that don't corrode (crucial), excellent build quality and materials, etc.
2) Even though they are height, rebound, and compression adjustable, the factory preset is perfect and you can call up KW for recommended settings for comfort, track, etc.
3) V3's don't slam the car. It can keep ride height stock and give you a just over a finger gap at the lowest recommended setting
4) Turner uses KW Clubsport variants of the V3's on their M235iR Racecars (camber plates)
5) Work really well with the OE Top mounts
6) Except the rear rebound, all other adjustments can be made by either laying on the ground or using the rebound key.
7) Installation instructions are magnificent.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

If you can go with the Ohlins, I would recommend that route. To save a bit of $, I think the KW V3 is the best option.

The KW V3 for the F2X/F3X can be had for $2,300 shipped - I paid that amount just 3 months ago. Also I'd point out that KW's are usually available for shipment. I know the Bilstein PSS lines are back ordered for a few more months and cheaper brands like BC require 1-2 months since parts come from Taiwan and need to be assembled here.

A few notes about the V3:

1) Some of the highest quality coils on the market. Stainless bodies that don't corrode (crucial), excellent build quality and materials, etc.
2) Even though they are height, rebound, and compression adjustable, the factory preset is perfect and you can call up KW for recommended settings for comfort, track, etc.
3) V3's don't slam the car. It can keep ride height stock and give you a just over a finger gap at the lowest recommended setting
4) Turner uses KW Clubsport variants of the V3's on their M235iR Racecars (camber plates)
5) Work really well with the OE Top mounts
6) Except the rear rebound, all other adjustments can be made by either laying on the ground or using the rebound key.
7) Installation instructions are magnificent.

So it looks like Ohlins are roughly $2500. For a couple hundred more than the v3's you think that's a superior product?

My mountain bike actually has a crane Creek rear shock which I believe merged with Ohlins at some point. That rear shock is amazing.

Turn around time isn't a big issue for me as this is something I am planning well in advance.

One more question. Currently my suspension makes the knocking noise noted in a lot of other threads. Will getting coilovers solve that knocking issue? Or is it in the top hat which is reused?

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

If you can go with the Ohlins, I would recommend that route. To save a bit of $, I think the KW V3 is the best option.

The KW V3 for the F2X/F3X can be had for $2,300 shipped - I paid that amount just 3 months ago. Also I'd point out that KW's are usually available for shipment. I know the Bilstein PSS lines are back ordered for a few more months and cheaper brands like BC require 1-2 months since parts come from Taiwan and need to be assembled here.

A few notes about the V3:

1) Some of the highest quality coils on the market. Stainless bodies that don't corrode (crucial), excellent build quality and materials, etc.
2) Even though they are height, rebound, and compression adjustable, the factory preset is perfect and you can call up KW for recommended settings for comfort, track, etc.
3) V3's don't slam the car. It can keep ride height stock and give you a just over a finger gap at the lowest recommended setting
4) Turner uses KW Clubsport variants of the V3's on their M235iR Racecars (camber plates)
5) Work really well with the OE Top mounts
6) Except the rear rebound, all other adjustments can be made by either laying on the ground or using the rebound key.
7) Installation instructions are magnificent.

Also kw has their own camber plates right? Camber plates for this car seem to be a big issue. If you get kw coilovers and camber plates I'm sure that would be a better package?

[Sail Boat]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

So it looks like Ohlins are roughly $2500. For a couple hundred more than the v3's you think that's a superior product?

My mountain bike actually has a crane Creek rear shock which I believe merged with Ohlins at some point. That rear shock is amazing.

Turn around time isn't a big issue for me as this is something I am planning well in advance.

One more question. Currently my suspension makes the knocking noise noted in a lot of other threads. Will getting coilovers solve that knocking issue? Or is it in the top hat which is reused?

You're finding Ohlins R&T for $2,500!? That's a steal - chepaest I could find was right around $3,100.

I'd say Ohlins beats out KW in most circumstances based on my experience. My brother had KW V3 on his 997.2 and they were great, but when he switched to Ohlins they were noticeably better.

On the knocking: My car has a knocking noise when going over uneven surfaces, i.e. one front wheel dipping into a pothole. In my case, the clunking is due to the swaybar "walking", meaning the bushings are allowing too much movement and causing the swaybar to bump against the bushing and transfer noise through the chassis. I plan on upgrading these bushings to powerflex variants, will report back on the results.

I did notice some improvement by installing the coilovers. I suspect credit goes to the combination of a shorter aftermarket endlink and more compression afforded by the V3.

On Camber Plates: KW does make their own plates, included with the V3 "Clubsport" variants. Vorshlag also makes a decent system and my local BMW Tuner exclusively uses their products. Personally, I would stay away from camber plates. They're expensive, break often, and always produce unwanted noise and vibrations. If you want a bit more camber I'd recommend offset LCA bushings or F8X LCAs.

[x233]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

I suspect credit goes to the combination of a shorter aftermarket endlink

Did those endlinks come standard with KW coilovers or did you have to purchase them separately? If so, which ones do you use?

[Sail Boat]

Originally Posted by x233

Did those endlinks come standard with KW coilovers or did you have to purchase them separately? If so, which ones do you use?

I use Turner's adjustable endlinks in the 260mm size, approximately 2.5" shorter than the OE links. These are the same links they use on their M235iR conversions. Pretty cheap at only $159 a set.

Not a huge deal, but one thing I don't particularly like about them is the use of cast aluminum on the ball joint bodies... since the rod is steel, extra care is required when tightening to avoid stripping.

[capt_and]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

I have been doing some coilovers research for a while now and am looking for some opionions.

What I am looking for in a coilovers is;
-build quality
-performance
- easy of use
-stock ride height as an option

What I am not looking for -
- junk quality
- super expensive with 10,000 options
( I am not going to be on the track every day, taking a hot lap, adjusting compression one click, then taking another hot lap)
-options that will slam the car down low
- options that are comfort friendly "great on the track and also super plush and comfortable on the road" (to me that is just marketing wank, you will always loose performance for comfort imho, correct me if I'm wrong)

I was hoping there would be something in the $1500-2500 range. So far it seems like Ohlins fit my description pretty well. Bilstein b10s are a cheaper option, but from reading the description it sounds more like a 'comfort friendly" option.

Are there any simple quality options out there? Or does quality always go hand in hand with the 10,000 way adjustable, high speed compression, low speed compression, preload, high speed rebound, and low speed rebound.

I come from mountain biking, and setting up the suspension can be pretty overwhelming. You don't need a track, or special tools or a lift to make adjustments on that.

Ohlins are great if you are mainly street with a fair amount of track days.
They are not a motorsport setup though so if you plan to race or run Hoosiers, you'll need to look at MCS or JRZ. As for the Ohlins, I had great success running them with 550 front and 686 rear spring rates. A softer spring rate up front might lead to hitting the bump stops.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by capt_and

Ohlins are great if you are mainly street with a fair amount of track days.
They are not a motorsport setup though so if you plan to race or run Hoosiers, you'll need to look at MCS or JRZ. As for the Ohlins, I had great success running them with 550 front and 686 rear spring rates. A softer spring rate up front might lead to hitting the bump stops.

I don't plan on having a Motorsports setup any time in the next 5-10 years.

I just like the car to feel stiff and responsive all the time. I don't mind harshness. Right now I've been doing 3 track days a season. I'd like to start stepping that up to 5-8 hpde's and 5-8 auto x.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

You're finding Ohlins R&T for $2,500!? That's a steal - chepaest I could find was right around $3,100.

I'd say Ohlins beats out KW in most circumstances based on my experience. My brother had KW V3 on his 997.2 and they were great, but when he switched to Ohlins they were noticeably better.

On the knocking: My car has a knocking noise when going over uneven surfaces, i.e. one front wheel dipping into a pothole. In my case, the clunking is due to the swaybar "walking", meaning the bushings are allowing too much movement and causing the swaybar to bump against the bushing and transfer noise through the chassis. I plan on upgrading these bushings to powerflex variants, will report back on the results.

I did notice some improvement by installing the coilovers. I suspect credit goes to the combination of a shorter aftermarket endlink and more compression afforded by the V3.

On Camber Plates: KW does make their own plates, included with the V3 "Clubsport" variants. Vorshlag also makes a decent system and my local BMW Tuner exclusively uses their products. Personally, I would stay away from camber plates. They're expensive, break often, and always produce unwanted noise and vibrations. If you want a bit more camber I'd recommend offset LCA bushings or F8X LCAs.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1224443

This is where I saw that price.... Maybe I am missing something? Reading through that thread, it looks like they were as low as 2,300 at one point.

I think I have a different clunk than you, but I am not sure. The easiest explanation I have seen was in another post. Put the car on a lift, push the wheels side to side, I here a pretty loud click.

On the road I do not really hear it unless I am parallel parking. When I am in reverese and the milisecond I was on the brake. I hear a click. Almost like the car in reverse with the brake settled it..... Maybe it is the same clicking that you describe.

[capt_and]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

I don't plan on having a Motorsports setup any time in the next 5-10 years.

I just like the car to feel stiff and responsive all the time. I don't mind harshness. Right now I've been doing 3 track days a season. I'd like to start stepping that up to 5-8 hpde's and 5-8 auto x.

Sounds like Ohlins with those spring rates are perfect for you then. Plus they hold their value very well if you need to upgrade later on.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

Right now I've been doing 3 track days a season.

With which club(s), and on which track(s), have you been running?

[Nugget]

Originally Posted by capt_and

Ohlins are great if you are mainly street with a fair amount of track days.
They are not a motorsport setup though so if you plan to race or run Hoosiers, you'll need to look at MCS or JRZ. As for the Ohlins, I had great success running them with 550 front and 686 rear spring rates. A softer spring rate up front might lead to hitting the bump stops.

The Ohlins supplied springs are an odd choice.
6kg front, 16kg rear. IMO way too hard in the rear for something called Road and Track.

I ended up with
7kgs front, 12kg rear swift springs and it feels much better.

[Ace604]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

I use Turner's adjustable endlinks in the 260mm size, approximately 2.5" shorter than the OE links. These are the same links they use on their M235iR conversions. Pretty cheap at only $159 a set.

Not a huge deal, but one thing I don't particularly like about them is the use of cast aluminum on the ball joint bodies... since the rod is steel, extra care is required when tightening to avoid stripping.

On kw v3's as well and getting the same "clunk" noises going rough pavement. Just to confirm, are these the end-links you are talking about?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...s-pair/?pdk=CA
Turner mfg# TSU4612AF3
250-265mm

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by Ace604

On kw v3's as well and getting the same "clunk" noises going rough pavement. Just to confirm, are these the end-links you are talking about?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...s-pair/?pdk=CA
Turner mfg# TSU4612AF3
250-265mm

Are adjustable endlinks mandatory with new coilovers? Can anyone put into layman's terms how the adjustment is important to new coilovers?

I just have a basic understanding that the suspension geometry changes. This can cause the sway bars to be "loaded" in resting for and have undesirable handling characteristics?

You want to match the endlinks so that there is no tracking pressure on the sway bar when in resting position?

[Ari00]

I just had KW V3s installed a couple weeks ago and love them. I retained stock endlinks and have zero clunking, maybe I am just lucky. I had Dinan camber plates when using their springs previously and had minor normal clunking from the plates but only at parking lot speeds over imperfect surfaces.

I love the V3s, but for my preference I will stiffen the rebound a tad. The shop that installed them kept the settings in the middle to play things safe and it works great for our Mass roads but my E46 330zhp with urethane everything and coilovers set to 90% firm has spoiled me.

I paid 2500 for my V3s..Installation I feel was a bit high but I went to a reputable shop that I trust and their hourly rate reflects their work. That being said, I could not be happier with the new ride and handling for a street car.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

Are adjustable endlinks mandatory with new coilovers? Can anyone put into layman's terms how the adjustment is important to new coilovers?

I just have a basic understanding that the suspension geometry changes. This can cause the sway bars to be "loaded" in resting for and have undesirable handling characteristics?

You want to match the endlinks so that there is no tracking pressure on the sway bar when in resting position?

No, not necessarily. It all depends on the coilover and ride height.

On most coilovers lowered you will highly likely to use longer links since the mounting point has moved up higher. The adjustable links can get the sway bar geometry back closer to a more ideal position. Ohlins, on the other hand, uses the lower collar for height adjustment(mounting point moves down as the car is lowered), you may need a longer link if lowered beyond their 15mm recommendation.

Let us know if you have specific questions regarding Ohlins R&T and spring rates. We have sold and installed more BMW Ohlins kits with or without modified spring rates than any Ohlins dealer out there.

[Pbdeed]

Any problem installing KW v2/v3 or Ohlins R&T in an RWD m240i with M4 LCAs & TS?

[Shadowfax028]

Originally Posted by Pbdeed

Any problem installing KW v2/v3 or Ohlins R&T in an RWD m240i with M4 LCAs & TS?

I'm gonna say No!!
I have a 2016 M235i. I installed the Ohlins kit designed for the 2016 M2. it's a much better kit with stiffer springs. on the street it's a lil bouncy.

On the Autocross track. It's the bomb diggity!!!