[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

So hot.

Alignment specs again? 40c is like 104F - extremely hot!!

Yea the IAT's were around 50*C when the DME was only pushing out 7-9psi. Felt like an NA i6, drove like one too lol

Alignment specs are,

F: -3.1, 3mm toe out

R: -2.2, 1mm toe in

Corner weights coming as soon as my shop gets their computer back so he can email me, but finished up 51|49 as we approached max adjustment on the front, it's all the way up!

Shout out to PowerSports Garage @ Calabogie Motorposrts Park. These guys do some great work, NASCAR/GT3 builds, full roll cages and chassis work and they apparently like BMW's too . Did my alignment with string/laser, pretty neat to watch.

Heading back this coming Tuesday to get my Rogue SSK installed, and a MT flush..









Right on turn 2!

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Then you know all about the “badump-adumps” lol such a sketchy way to end a lap!

Hey, on the bright side, it's the only wall you really need to concern yourself with!

Do you know if Terry is still managing the track? He's a great guy. I got a lot of special consideration from him when I ran there, once in the summer and once in the winter(!).

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Hey, on the bright side, it's the only wall you really need to concern yourself with!

Do you know if Terry is still managing the track? He's a great guy. I got a lot of special consideration from him when I ran there, once in the summer and once in the winter(!).

Using all of the wide-vision coming out of that corner, been close a few times to the point where I've let off, but not in that pic lol

I'm not too sure about who's managing it as I know it was bought out a few years back. I'll check with my buddy who's an organizer, he'll know for sure..

You plan on heading this way at all? Would be nice to see another 2er in the sea of M2/M2C/M3 and M4s lol

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Using all of the wide-vision coming out of that corner, been close a few times to the point where I've let off, but not in that pic lol

I'm not too sure about who's managing it as I know it was bought out a few years back. I'll check with my buddy who's an organizer, he'll know for sure..

You plan on heading this way at all? Would be nice to see another 2er in the sea of M2/M2C/M3 and M4s lol

Yeah, you can see the same thing near the end of the short clip below of T10 & T11 at the Glen. Same as TMP...as long as your line is right, you're good to stay in the throttle. Most HPDE drivers exiting that turn never put a tire on the paint and give up a ton of speed down the main straight.

I'm afraid my track days have come to an end. I was going to finish up this year with four days at the Glen in early June, but the track was closed and that was that.

When you get over to Mosport GP, be sure and post a video.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Yeah, you can see the same thing near the end of the short clip below of T10 & T11 at the Glen. Same as TMP...as long as your line is right, you're good to stay in the throttle. Most HPDE drivers exiting that turn never put a tire on the paint and give up a ton of speed down the main straight.

I'm afraid my track days have come to an end. I was going to finish up this year with four days at the Glen in early June, but the track was closed and that was that.

When you get over to Mosport GP, be sure and post a video.

Gonna hit CTMP GP once this fall, just gotta find an event I'm available to and I'm there. Hands down the best track north of the boarder, from an "elitist" perspective lol. I have 100's of hours on Mosport GP and Watkins Glen on my simulator, so I know all about those final turns @ the Glen. Looks like a bit of an early apex in turn 11

May I ask why your track days have come to an end? Sucks to hear..

D

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Looks like a bit of an early apex in turn 11

May I ask why your track days have come to an end? Sucks to hear..

D

At the time the video was shot (before the repave) there was a bump-out in the curb, and that was your apex. That's what the car tapped with its right front wheel.

With the right slip angle that line is the quick way through the turn, yielding a higher minimum speed and more time at full throttle. It's pretty much the same line Bill Auberlen is taking at 7:05-7:23 in the Turner Motorsports Grand-Am video below.

I'm almost 72 and no longer getting more out of it than I'm putting into it (if that makes sense). I may give autocross another try next year if the virus is under control around here – and I don't have to shag cones.

[TakoMako]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Not to hijack, but pictures PLEASE.

Forgot to take pictures when I was out. No rubbing. I figured mine out by talking to OP.

note: Xdrive with no m3/m4 LCA, hence more clearance.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by TakoMako

Forgot to take pictures when I was out. No rubbing. I figured mine out by talking to OP.

note: Xdrive with no m3/m4 LCA, hence more clearance.

Looking good brother, glad I could help you along the way!

[Dylan86]

Update:

Installed a Rogue SSK
Flushed out gearbox oil again with Redline D4

All is smooth now, this shifter does magic for these MT’s, almost my favourite mod to date, now.

Also figured out my meth issue, wasn’t getting power to the pump. After some diag with my tech he noticed an additional fuse I hadn’t checked which ties into the fuse box below the wiper cowl. I checked the other two but totally forgot about the little mini 10a. Whalaa, I have meth injection again! Car is pulling like a freight train now even with 40*c intake temps.

In September I’ll be adding a BM3 back end flash to coincide with my JB4/meth setup. Will have a before/after dyno done at that point to get a baseline before the flash. Will dyno on Map 0 (stock boost no meth) and just bolt on parts. Then will dyno with just stage 2 OTS, and again with methanol turned on. Hoping to break 400whp without a custom tune...

D

[TakoMako]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Looking good brother, glad I could help you along the way!

I was really scared initially lol. Because of the need to figure out my front fitment, I now have 5mm, 10mm, 12.5mm and 17.5mm spacers lol.

I am definitely going for shorter main springs. I might go for eibach springs as they have same spring rate.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Update:

Installed a Rogue SSK
Flushed out gearbox oil again with Redline D4

All is smooth now, this shifter does magic for these MT’s, almost my favourite mod to date, now.

Also figured out my meth issue, wasn’t getting power to the pump. After some diag with my tech he noticed an additional fuse I hadn’t checked which ties into the fuse box below the wiper cowl. I checked the other two but totally forgot about the little mini 10a. Whalaa, I have meth injection again! Car is pulling like a freight train now even with 40*c intake temps.

In September I’ll be adding a BM3 back end flash to coincide with my JB4/meth setup. Will have a before/after dyno done at that point to get a baseline before the flash. Will dyno on Map 0 (stock boost no meth) and just bolt on parts. Then will dyno with just stage 2 OTS, and again with methanol turned on. Hoping to break 400whp without a custom tune...

D

It can be done - and I’m excited for you. You have a turbo inlet and an intake already I assume?

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by TakoMako

I was really scared initially lol. Because of the need to figure out my front fitment, I now have 5mm, 10mm, 12.5mm and 17.5mm spacers lol.

I am definitely going for shorter main springs. I might go for eibach springs as they have same spring rate.

Yea or Anthony235 went slightly heavier, but has his part# available also and can ask Eibach to match the rates for you. Definitely the shorter spring is the big win, here

I want some 7.5-8mm spacers to try up front, on a mission to completely avoid needing to run -3.0* camber for DD'ing, currently at -3.1 and its about as close as I want to go to the fender side. That 2mm or so can go a long way, possibly -2.5*

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

It can be done - and I’m excited for you. You have a turbo inlet and an intake already I assume?

I have the OG Pure inlet, still never installed after two years lol. Have the BMS open intake and switching back to the MPPK OEM intake (closed) and plan to heat tape it to help deflect engine bay temps.

Might hold off on the inlet until I'm ready for a custom tune (probably next spring). It'll be a decent gap up in power from JB4 --> JB4/BEF so I'll need some time to get used to the new power delivery, then I'll dial in Meth, then I'll get it custom tuned most likely a CJ tune..

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

I have the OG Pure inlet, still never installed after two years lol. Have the BMS open intake and switching back to the MPPK OEM intake (closed) and plan to heat tape it to help deflect engine bay temps.

Might hold off on the inlet until I'm ready for a custom tune (probably next spring). It'll be a decent gap up in power from JB4 --> JB4/BEF so I'll need some time to get used to the new power delivery, then I'll dial in Meth, then I'll get it custom tuned most likely a CJ tune..

I have the version 3 that’s the whole assembly if you want to grab it cheap, otherwise no reason to wait. It will give you a lower WGDC, and bump up the power a tad. It doesn’t require a retune either.

If you are really looking for some extra (consistent) power I would also consider a HPFP and Turbosmart Bov.

[TakoMako]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Yea or Anthony235 went slightly heavier, but has his part# available also and can ask Eibach to match the rates for you. Definitely the shorter spring is the big win, here

I want some 7.5-8mm spacers to try up front, on a mission to completely avoid needing to run -3.0* camber for DD'ing, currently at -3.1 and its about as close as I want to go to the fender side. That 2mm or so can go a long way, possibly -2.5*

I found out I rub at around full lock on the rear fender liner lol. Barely noticed.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by TakoMako

I found out I rub at around full lock on the rear fender liner lol. Barely noticed.

Remove the liner, yeah?

IIRC, the front and rear liners in place simply to reduce noise in the cabin.

[SkrApUNB]

Dylan86 Did you ever get around to test fitting that 9.5 up front? Curious to know how that went.

I finally ordered my wheels back in May and they came in this weekend I ended up going with 18x9.5 et35 squared... Interested to see how things are going to work out. right now I am on H&R springs but I have Air ride sitting just waiting for tires so I can get things going. I plan on running 255/35 all around as well. I think I'll be okay as far as fitment goes but I guess we will find out lol.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by SkrApUNB

Dylan86 Did you ever get around to test fitting that 9.5 up front? Curious to know how that went.

I finally ordered my wheels back in May and they came in this weekend I ended up going with 18x9.5 et35 squared... Interested to see how things are going to work out. right now I am on H&R springs but I have Air ride sitting just waiting for tires so I can get things going. I plan on running 255/35 all around as well. I think I'll be okay as far as fitment goes but I guess we will find out lol.

No but I promise to next weekend while I'm off of work! Just need to rotate back to front and take some pics/ road test it. I'd be going to 255 square if this works but if the 265's clear without any major rubbing I may end up with 265 H-RS4's for next year, as they similar in size to a 255 RE71R. ET35 9.5 square can work provided you clear the front strut on the inner side of the wheel. Most have had to use 5-10-15mm spacers to run 9"+ up front. That said, if on stock struts it may work, but won't know until you mount. The air ride struts would be similar to stock or smaller so it's all dependent on the inner wheel to bag/perch that's going to be the main issue. Crappy thing about the clearance is if you do require a spacer, you're starting at minimum 5mm, which nets your final ET up front to 30, which is pretty extreme fitment.

Let us know how it works out! I think you're in the 235/240 owners group on FB? If so share your experience there as it's my frequent these days..

[TakoMako]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

No but I promise to next weekend while I'm off of work! Just need to rotate back to front and take some pics/ road test it. I'd be going to 255 square if this works but if the 265's clear without any major rubbing I may end up with 265 H-RS4's for next year, as they similar in size to a 255 RE71R. ET35 9.5 square can work provided you clear the front strut on the inner side of the wheel. Most have had to use 5-10-15mm spacers to run 9"+ up front. That said, if on stock struts it may work, but won't know until you mount. The air ride struts would be similar to stock or smaller so it's all dependent on the inner wheel to bag/perch that's going to be the main issue. Crappy thing about the clearance is if you do require a spacer, you're starting at minimum 5mm, which nets your final ET up front to 30, which is pretty extreme fitment.

Let us know how it works out! I think you're in the 235/240 owners group on FB? If so share your experience there as it's my frequent these days..

Note that H-RS4 is 0.3" wider and 0.2" shorter. RE71R might be easier to fit in 265 when comparing with H-RS4.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by TakoMako

Note that H-RS4 is 0.3" wider and 0.2" shorter. RE71R might be easier to fit in 265 when comparing with H-RS4.

Interesting, the shop was suggesting they run smaller, but maybe they meant in height.. Aparently the H-RS4's are lasting double if not longer than the RE71R's and that's very appealing even at the small cost of a bit of top line performance. Strongly considering them, now even in a 255 square setup. If I don't go square 9.5" I think I'm going to move on staggered Pirelli Trofeo R's 245/265 for next season. This tire is required for two TA series here in Ontario, so it's worth having them for those events as well as they have better grip/wear than the RE71R's just at a 10-20% premium in cost. Decisions decisions....

[danyosun]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

PS - I tried to take as many random angles possible of the wheel fitment, as it seems not many have done the Front: et42 9.0" or Rear: et43 9.5" from Apex on the F22. It fits, PERFECTLY! A 255 would allow a bit more clearance out back and reduced camber (-1.8* to -2.0 vs -2.1* minimum imo), and 245 would net the same savings out front with a dial back to -2.8*.

First off, amazing build! Gain so much good information from your thread.

Are your APEX EC-7 9.5 ET43 in the rear really perfect? The APEX reps and a few guys have said it pokes and they all suggest 9.5 ET58 with 5mm spacers. Everyone seems to be scared to run ET43, except for you.

Just a short background, I am on Dinan Springs and I do plan on tracking (first timer) the car with the correct alignment, probably 2.25° in the rear based off quick research. I would prefer going ET43 in the rear to avoid using any spacers and have a slightly more "aggressive" stance/setup. I've also read, for each degree of camber, the wheel should be tucked about 4mm or so, any truth to that? Therefore, by running your exact set up and -2.25° camber, I shouldn't have any clearance issues right?

I'll probably run 255/40 RE71r to be safe first, unless you're confident I can clear 265 with ease.

I also never even considered running 18x9 ET42 on the front as I never seen anyone run that spec before. Any huge advantage running 9 ET42 instead of 8.5 ET 35 on the fronts? Trying to get close to square as possible maybe?

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by danyosun

First off, amazing build! Gain so much good information from your thread.

Are your APEX EC-7 9.5 ET43 in the rear really perfect? The APEX reps and a few guys have said it pokes and they all suggest 9.5 ET58 with 5mm spacers. Everyone seems to be scared to run ET43, except for you.

Just a short background, I am on Dinan Springs and I do plan on tracking (first timer) the car with the correct alignment, probably 2.25° in the rear based off quick research. I would prefer going ET43 in the rear to avoid using any spacers and have a slightly more "aggressive" stance/setup. I've also read, for each degree of camber, the wheel should be tucked about 4mm or so, any truth to that? Therefore, by running your exact set up and -2.25° camber, I shouldn't have any clearance issues right?

I'll probably run 255/40 RE71r to be safe first, unless you're confident I can clear 265 with ease.

I also never even considered running 18x9 ET42 on the front as I never seen anyone run that spec before. Any huge advantage running 9 ET42 instead of 8.5 ET 35 on the fronts? Trying to get close to square as possible maybe?

Thanks for the kind words, sir! It's been a great journey and still growing as I go.

In terms of fitment on the rear, Apex did advise that it'll be very close and to plan to run a 255 max without a fender pull. I installed them as is with 265 RE's and -2.2* camber and it only rubbed on big compressions and I'm also a bit lower in the rear than a Dinan spring drop so it may be a non issue. I've recommended this setup before with a 255, I think it'd be perfect. With a fender pull you'll get 265's in there no sweat.

The front 9" et42 was also recommended by Apex as a max width for the front. I was going to run 9" square but wanted to get more tire in the rear so I went with the staggered setup. With 265/9.5 and 255/9" the contact patch with the RE's is very similar, it drives very square.

I would consider 18x9 et42 square with 255's. You'll require minimum -2.5* camber up front so camber plates are a definite must. Otherwise you're either forced to go staggered or have a super aggressive 9.5" square set which would require even more finking.

Hope that makes sense