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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash/Wax/Detailing/Exterior Restoration & Repairs) Seeking some advice on Random orbital polishing and Waxes...

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      07-11-2018, 09:09 PM   #1
Taunto
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Seeking some advice on Random orbital polishing and Waxes...

I am new to Random orbital polishing and still learning so sorry if my questions sound like a noob.

I recently Polished the entire passenger side of my car(ran out of time to do the rest) I applied polish and Glaze followed by some Wax. I felt like i was rushed and looking at the paint in the sun, its not bad but its not as good as the job i did on the Hood i would say.
Now when i did polish out the scratches on the hood, I had a fair bit of time to do it which is why it probally came out really well.

My Question is, If i want to Re-polish the work i did(passenger side of the vehicle) Can i polish to remove the Wax I have applied? If so will any abrassive polish work? do i need to wash the car with certain product?

When i polished My hood, I used Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Followed by Autoglym Super Resin polish, Followed by Chemical Guys EZ Cream Glaze. I used the first 2 products because i had them laying around and the Hood was badly scratched. i dont believe the AGSRP is very abrassive tho - Is this a good approach to minor swirls/scratches or can it be accomplished in fewer steps with a different product?

Last question - How do you Polish swirls from a Wrap? I have the Roof Wrapped in Gloss black on my car, I was wondering how i go about on bringing the Deep Gloss Black shine to it and if possible removing the swirls?

Any help or insight would be great. Looking to do this on saturday at work as having a hoist will be much nicer on my back
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      07-12-2018, 06:17 AM   #2
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If you recently cut polished waxed I would wash out the recent work with a dedicated product
https://www.lenosgarage.com/collecti...ts/clean-strip
Liked auto glym when I used it years ago if I recall it was like a P21polish - little correcting.

I like to have a few different levels of correcting polish starting with least abrasive to see which minimizes the damage. Personally I donít like using old very aggressive compounds ( older final glazing polish I havenít had issues with )

Also the pads u use is as important as the product.

You could actually test wash and wax buffing out with RO (small section of panel ) to see if things improve
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      07-12-2018, 10:16 PM   #3
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What kind of random orbital are you using? Or are you using a dual action polisher, e.g. Porter cable 74xx? What's important in paint correction is the tool, the pad you are using and the product. E.g. ultimate compound can give different levels of cut depending on which pad you are using. Usually I go ultimate compound to ultimate polish to final wax/glaze/(extra steps and ceramic coat), and vary the pad depending on the correction needed. I like sticking w the same family of products to ensure compatibility. You don't want something funky happening due to interactions between the fillers/carrier oils etc between the different products.
As for polishing wrap, iím not sure if it's possible. Most high end wraps are self healing anyway. Try using a heat gun to gently heat the wrap and see if the scratches go away. I would be very careful if you decide to polish the wrap. Won't take much to burn through the wrap and ruin it.
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      07-14-2018, 12:03 AM   #4
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ya i am using the PC 7424XP.
I have been using Chemical Guys Hex logic pads.
I found out some information on the Autoglym Super Resin polish after doing more research. Apparently it has super low abrassives and contains alot of oils and fillers more than anything. So once the coating wears off over time..your old scratches re-appear. Which sort of makes sense cause i remember using it by hand a few months ago and was like ya looks good..then now im like..wow theres no way i have all these new scratches and swirls.

So going tomorrow at work. Got myself all prepped up for the job. Didnt have much of the Ultimate compound left..
So this time i bought Chemical guys V36 and V38. Talking with one of the detailers at the place i bought it from suggested those based on the paint condition of my car.
Going to use a V36 with the Orange cutting pad..then V38 with the White Pad. Probally top it all off with a Glaze then top it off with a couple thin coats of wax.
Ill try to post up some photos tomorrow when im done.

They told me i can polish the Wrap - just to try a finishing polish with a light cutting pad and just use a Slower speed setting..and just keep touching the wrap with the back of ur hand to guage how hot its getting.. if the light cutting polish doesnt get it out, they said u pretty much got to replace it....but hey for me if it gets rid of any of the swirls..and brings back some of the gloss black to it, ill be happy
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      07-14-2018, 11:51 AM   #5
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Always start with the least abrasive compound. If thatís not going the job step up to next compound. Be advised that the clear coat on modern cars is very thin. Why? Weight and costs. The BMW factory clear coat starts out as a very fine powder thatís sprayed on the paint. The body is then baked which causes the powder to liquify and adhere to the paint.
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      07-14-2018, 12:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
Always start with the least abrasive compound. If thatís not going the job step up to next compound. Be advised that the clear coat on modern cars is very thin. Why? Weight and costs. The BMW factory clear coat starts out as a very fine powder thatís sprayed on the paint. The body is then baked which causes the powder to liquify and adhere to the paint.
Wow, never would have thought a powder.
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      07-16-2018, 09:13 AM   #7
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I toured the Munich factory a few years ago. Highly automated with ABB robots everywhere. Btw, ďABBĒ is Asea Brown Boveri, a Swedish/Swiss engineering firm.
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      07-20-2018, 11:58 AM   #8
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I'd suggest practicing on a few cars you don't care about first? Once you cut thru that clear coat you are pretty well screwed, so it can be an expensive learning curve. Many of those online demos are working on solid paints that are probably 10 coats thick, so they can be a bit misleading.
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      07-21-2018, 05:59 PM   #9
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I think unless if you are trying to chase a deep scratch and really overdo it, it is very difficult to go through the clear coat with a DA. This is removal of some pretty serious swirls with no perceptible change on the paint thickness gauge.

Completely different story if you are using a rotary buffer.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...78fkhKHpyAb.97
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