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      10-13-2021, 07:49 PM   #23
XutvJet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertw View Post
You keep repeating your position in greater detail without addressing my question. If the oil filter is undamaged and not plugged, how does the metal get past it and into the rest of the engine?

Since you refuse to answer that question, I suspect you are just repeating stuff you've heard and don't understand.
Spin a rod bearing and metal can go through the crank oil galleys. That metal might stay there and get dislodged later and take out another rod bearing. There's also the oil bypass valve. It's possible it opened during the spun rod bearing event. In that case, metal is going everywhere in the motor.

Most any engine builder would say to properly repair a motor with a spun rod bearing, you need to disassemble it fully and clean the block, head, crank and inspect the turbo. Or you replace the short block, clean the head, and inspect the turbo. Or replace with a new or used motor.

If you want to fix the issue with the original engine block, then the block and crank must be removed and fully inspected, the crank likely fixed, the rod replaced, the piston and rings replaced, the oil pump and pick up replaced, and everything cleaned thoroughly. That's a CRAP TON of work. Only a very skilled DIYer or someone with deep pockets and hopes and dreams would do such a thing vs just replacing with a used motor. Either way, the motor has to come out and you're in it for 5 figures. It's stupid expensive, but a reality with a BMW.
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Last edited by XutvJet; 10-13-2021 at 07:54 PM..
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      10-14-2021, 02:52 AM   #24
albertw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
Spin a rod bearing and metal can go through the crank oil galleys. That metal might stay there and get dislodged later and take out another rod bearing. There's also the oil bypass valve. It's possible it opened during the spun rod bearing event. In that case, metal is going everywhere in the motor.
I can see that metal from a failing bearing can get pushed back into the oil galley that feeds it, but it isn't going to go far against the flow. The engines I'm familiar with, each main bearing gets its oil separately from the main gallery, and then feeds adjacent rod bearings. What is it about the design of the crankshaft of a BMW engine that allows metal from a rod bearing to spread backwards against the flow throughout the oil galleys in the crank? My BS meter is pretty well pegged on this claim of yours.

You finally acknowledge that metal can go "everywhere in the motor" only if the bypass valve opens. That happens only if the filter plugs. The probability of the bypass valve breaking at the same time a bearing fails is vanishingly small. (It could also happen if the filter is defective, but that is also unlikely.)

A good mechanic should be able to determine whether metal is everywhere without extensive disassembly. If not, because the car was bought used I think that whether the engine can be repaired cost effectively is not the only issue. I would also worry that this might be the first symptom of an engine that was run low on oil.
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      10-14-2021, 09:18 AM   #25
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I respect your BS meter, but I've worked on enough motors to know that weird stuff happens and in the case of bearing failures, you typically aren't just going simply hand polish the crank, replace a rod, oil pump, and call it a day and hope for the best. No freaking way when everything has to come apart any way to replace the rod and adequately inspect and fix the crank at a minimum. So much labor is involved, especially expensive marked up BMW labor and parts.
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      10-14-2021, 04:33 PM   #26
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Well some good news, they are going to charge me $11k for the $26k new motor and also give me a loaner until it’s finished which probably won’t be until mid to late December (Germany doesn’t expect to have the engine until mid November). I will take that as a win. Now the question is do I sell the car or keep it?
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      10-14-2021, 04:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigdeguz View Post
Well some good news, they are going to charge me $11k for the $26k new motor and also give me a loaner until it’s finished which probably won’t be until mid to late December (Germany doesn’t expect to have the engine until mid November). I will take that as a win. Now the question is do I sell the car or keep it?
I'd say that's a big win - good for you!
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      10-14-2021, 04:59 PM   #28
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I'd take the L and trade it in to another dealer.
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      10-14-2021, 05:15 PM   #29
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Good for you. The positive takeaways are first, that they will give you a loaner, worth at least $K for the period, and second, that you will have a brand spanking new engine. I would keep the car. You will never get its true value in a sale.
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      10-14-2021, 05:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaximointhecut View Post
I'd take the L and trade it in to another dealer.
Even with the deal the dealership offered me?
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      10-15-2021, 09:02 AM   #31
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You'll lose big by trading, dollar-wise, considering the price of the new engine. Combine that with low inventories and high prices on new and used cars, keep your car with its brand new factory motor
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      10-15-2021, 03:13 PM   #32
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You should get a warranty on a new engine as well, so you will also have that piece of mind moving forward.
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      10-15-2021, 07:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golf4501 View Post
You should get a warranty on a new engine as well, so you will also have that piece of mind moving forward.
should come with a 2 year warranty
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      10-16-2021, 03:39 PM   #34
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If you're going to sell, this is the time to do it. Used car resale is sky high. You'll still lose a ton of money because of the motor cost but the increase of about 20%+ resale may help you recoup about $5k of that $11k motor replacement.
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