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      06-16-2020, 11:37 PM   #111
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      07-14-2020, 10:58 PM   #112
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Careful when buying used tail lights

First of all just wanted to say this post was excellent!

Has anyone come across a similar issue with their tail lights? It appears that the tail light I received has an issue with the sealing? Has anyone else had this and was able to fix?
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      07-17-2020, 05:46 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krexen View Post
First of all just wanted to say this post was excellent!

Has anyone come across a similar issue with their tail lights? It appears that the tail light I received has an issue with the sealing? Has anyone else had this and was able to fix?
I wrote about it here:
https://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1723152

Unfortunately, only solution is to return it to seller and ask for a new one.
I just hope it's not going to happen over time and that it was just a production issue they fixed.
Be sure to inspect them carefullly for an cracks of sealant.
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      08-09-2020, 11:07 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mateodido View Post
I wrote about it here:
https://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1723152

Unfortunately, only solution is to return it to seller and ask for a new one.
I just hope it's not going to happen over time and that it was just a production issue they fixed.
Be sure to inspect them carefullly for an cracks of sealant.
Will do! I was able to get all the condensation out but I think I will just reorder this light and maybe sell to someone who is okay with just sealing it up themselves.

Cheers!
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      09-16-2020, 08:53 AM   #115
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So, I finally gotten around to installing the LCI Tail lights; I've had them sitting in my house for about a year. No problems, everything went smoothly until I want to code. I had faults when I turn on the ignition which I ignored assuming they'd clear when the coding complete and most of them did however, two remain:

Collision Warning System inactive
Pedestrian Warning Malfunction

I've checked the coding and everything is correct but still, these two faults remain.

When I removed the OG tail lights, there were two (2) connectors going to each tail light, the 8 pin connector and a small 2 pin connector with two brown wires. In moving from the 8 pin to the 6 pin connector, I chose to remove the connector completely. I put some heat shrink on each of the two unused Brake wires and taped them back to the cable. I also wrapped the small connector in electrical tape and taped it to the cable. As both of those wires are brown, I suspect they are ground wires and I'm wondering if not having this cable connected is causing my problem?
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      09-18-2020, 02:58 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
So, I finally gotten around to installing the LCI Tail lights; I've had them sitting in my house for about a year. No problems, everything went smoothly until I want to code. I had faults when I turn on the ignition which I ignored assuming they'd clear when the coding complete and most of them did however, two remain:

Collision Warning System inactive
Pedestrian Warning Malfunction

I've checked the coding and everything is correct but still, these two faults remain.

When I removed the OG tail lights, there were two (2) connectors going to each tail light, the 8 pin connector and a small 2 pin connector with two brown wires. In moving from the 8 pin to the 6 pin connector, I chose to remove the connector completely. I put some heat shrink on each of the two unused Brake wires and taped them back to the cable. I also wrapped the small connector in electrical tape and taped it to the cable. As both of those wires are brown, I suspect they are ground wires and I'm wondering if not having this cable connected is causing my problem?
One has nothing to do with the other, if you retrofitted the LCI taillights and coded it properly, there shouldn't be any related malfunctions, especially with the Drivers Assistant features, which run on a separate module, independent the lighting system.

In fact, the point of removing the warm/cold bulb checks, when the LED taillights are added is to avoid any errors.

After any coding session, the systems does a full reset and sometimes the Pedestrian Avoidance trigger a soft error but it is never permanent and usually clears itself after few seconds.

I suggestion you run diagnosis program or APP and try to see if it can pin point the exact related error codes(s). Then afterwards, maybe do another hard adaptions reset and see if the error(s) still lingers.

The extra [COLOR="DarkOrange"]brown[/COLOR] taillight wires are marked for ground but keep in mind, there are also three individual incandescent brake lights and specific wires for each light in the pre-LCI setup.

When you retrofit the LCI taillights, you discard two of them and since the LCI LEDs only require the use of one. So two of the extra wires are actually live brake wires that needs to be capped off, to avoid tripping a fuse.
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      09-20-2020, 03:23 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
One has nothing to do with the other, if you retrofitted the LCI taillights and coded it properly, there shouldn't be any related malfunctions, especially with the Drivers Assistant features, which run on a separate module, independent the lighting system.

In fact, the point of removing the warm/cold bulb checks, when the LED taillights are added is to avoid any errors.

After any coding session, the systems does a full reset and sometimes the Pedestrian Avoidance trigger a soft error but it is never permanent and usually clears itself after few seconds.

I suggestion you run diagnosis program or APP and try to see if it can pin point the exact related error codes(s). Then afterwards, maybe do another hard adaptions reset and see if the error(s) still lingers.

The extra brown taillight wires are marked for ground but keep in mind, there are also three individual incandescent brake lights and specific wires for each light in the pre-LCI setup.

When you retrofit the LCI taillights, you discard two of them and since the LCI LEDs only require the use of one. So two of the extra wires are actually live brake wires that needs to be capped off, to avoid tripping a fuse.

Yes, you nailed it, the problem had nothing to do with the taillight retrofit.

Along with the tails, I installed the rear sound insulation and cleaned up/rerouted some other wiring. I accidentally disconnected the connector to the collision system switches in the lower left dash panel. I didn't actually disconnect it, it's was pretty loose and slipped out...I suspect the guys who installed my suspension broke the connector's locking mechanism. It's held in with tape now but I'll see about getting a new one from the stealer. All good, I'm pretty happy with everything. Thanks for the steer!
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      01-23-2021, 03:25 AM   #118
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Can all the coding be done with carly only? I don't have bimmercode, just carly. I am assuming the coding is to turn off all the bulb checks only?

EDIT: Confirmed all the coding is to turn off the voltage monitoring. Can be done via Carly only

Last edited by gt-[r]; 02-21-2021 at 07:40 PM..
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      02-05-2021, 01:22 AM   #119
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OP - thanks for posting this. Four years later, this guy still used it.

Installed and coded today.
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      02-13-2021, 02:36 PM   #120
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Does swapping 2021 M2C US spec lights for the Euro backline with amber signals require coding?
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      02-13-2021, 04:02 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F8SEVEN View Post
Does swapping 2021 M2C US spec lights for the Euro backline with amber signals require coding?
I created a thread asking this question and a couple of the replies said that if both the new and old lights are LCI, then changing from US LCI to Euro LCI (normal or Blackline) is just plug-n-play with no coding needed. However, I don’t think either of them had actually tried it themselves. I still haven’t seen any 100% confirmation that coding isn’t required, but it seems like more than likely US LCI to Euro LCI should just be plug-n-play with no coding needed.

I started that thread because at the time our pre-LCI 228i had just been totaled and I was looking to get an M240i LCI. Unfortunately I didn’t end up getting the M240i because with the pandemic quarantine we didn’t need another car. If I had bought the US LCI M240i back then I would have already tried the swap and posted my first hand results.

Here’s the link to the thread...you should read through it:

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1713405
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      02-19-2021, 01:12 AM   #122
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I need help. I pinned everything and installed the lights. However, my right tail light, the turn signal and brake lights are reversed. I tried changing pins 1 and 2 with each other, and I tried reverse order for the pins. Both don't fix the problem. Is this a coding issue, or is my right tail light broken?

EDIT:

If anyone has the same problem as me, i pulled everything out, matched 1-6 exactly the same as the left side, tested both headlights on the right plug to confirm, and it worked.

Last edited by gt-[r]; 02-21-2021 at 07:40 PM..
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      03-13-2021, 05:59 AM   #123
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Hi, maybe i have missed something , can someone explain who followed the guide on how I connect the reverse light? I can see the only connector for 6 pins and what should I connect for the reverse? Thanks
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      03-15-2021, 12:12 PM   #124
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All the lights in the tailight are connected thru the one harness.
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      07-08-2021, 02:50 PM   #125
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Hi guys, i just wanted to ask if anyone here had an issue with errors after installation despite correct coding.

I followed to guide perfectly, i have checked and double checked everything, but the dash keeps saying 'Rear Right Brake Light Failure'. Even though it is working just fine and has been wired as described.

It doesn't flash up all the time, it is intermittent, but comes on more often than not.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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      07-08-2021, 04:04 PM   #126
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I'd bet you have a short in the clip, or two wires touching or shorting.
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      07-27-2021, 02:44 PM   #127
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Lightbulb

Is there a way to re-code the car so that we can receive the error message when the indicator stops working ? (I’m on my 4th light cluster).

Each time my indicator had stopped working I’ve only noticed it because I’ve either been told by a work colleague or I notice it when I lock/unlock my car that they’re not working… but in the car I get no error message to say indicator fault… would be handy for me to know when they’re not working, as it’s intermittent and sometimes does work.

thanks in advance guys!

Last edited by Kylefrizzell; 07-27-2021 at 02:45 PM.. Reason: Typo
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      09-18-2021, 02:58 PM   #128
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I got the dreaded ground wire issue outside of warranty and the dealer wanted $235 just to "evaluate the problem" on top of another ridiculous $250 "car inspection" fee – WTF!? I thought this would be a good excuse to upgrade my pre-lci lights.

I can confirm that the same steps work for the euro black lines as well. What an awesome upgrade, thank you op!

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      11-03-2021, 02:25 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrola View Post
Attachment 1660754

The taillights are a direct fit in place of the pre-LCI ones but need a 6-pin connector instead of the 8-pin connector.

The old connector had 3-pins for the 3 brake light bulbs while the new one only needs one. While some people have opted to solder the 3 brake light wires together and connect them using a single pin. I opted to only use one of the pins, specifically the inner brake light pin since that is the one used for the brake force display function. The other two pins remain in the old connector and is left dangling next to the new connector in case the installation needs to be reversed for whatever reason.

Parts List:
  • Left Taillight: 63217420991
  • Right Taillight: 63217420992
  • 6-Pin Connectors (2x): 61132359993

Tools:
  • 10mm Socket and Driver
  • Pick tool or narrow flat-head screwdriver
  • ENET Cable and coding software (E-Sys)
  • Electrical tape
  • Masking tape (optional)

Instructions:
  1. Cover the area right below the taillight with masking tape because you risk scratching the bumper when pulling it out.
  2. Open the trunk and open the two plastic covers covering the two 10mm nuts on the taillight and unscrew them.
  3. Give the taillight a good tug and it will come out. The outer side is held in with a snap-in rubber ball thing so it needs a good tug.
  4. Remove the 8-pin connector from the taillight. First unlock the connector by pulling on gray locking tab and then pull on the connector to remove it.
  5. Put the old taillight aside.
  6. Now open the small pin-locking plastic pieces on both sides of the connector locking the pins in place.
  7. Remove all pins from the 8-pin connector except the two non-BFD brake light pins. To remove the pins just unlock them by pushing on them using a pick tool through the newly exposed area.
  8. Remove the purple locking tab from the new 6-pin connector and correctly insert the pins into it according to the pinning guide. Don't forget to insert the purple locking tab again.
  9. Now wrap the old 8-pin connector with the brake light pins with electrical tape so no water can get in there and corrode the pins.
  10. Plug in the new connector into the new taillight and install the taillight. Make sure while installing the tallight that the rubber drip rail is not bent and is correctly sealed against the body of the car.
  11. Repeat for the other side.
  12. Code the car

Pinout:
Pre-LCI Left:
Pin 1 Gray / Blue = Reversing Light
Pin 2 Gray / Violet = LED Bar
Pin 3 Gray / Yellow = Fog Light
Pin 4 Black / White = Turn Signal
Pin 5 Yellow / Black = Brake Light
Pin 6 Brown = Ground (-)
Pin 7 Black / Yellow = Brake Light
Pin 8 Gray / Pink = BFD/Brake Light

LCI Left:
Pin 1 Gray / Pink = BFD/Brake Light
Pin 2 Black / White = Turn Signal
Pin 3 Brown = Ground (-)
Pin 4 Gray / Violet = LED Bar
Pin 5 Gray / Blue = Reversing Light
Pin 6 Gray / Yellow = Fog Light

Pre-LCI Right:
Pin 1 Black / Gray = Turn Signal
Pin 2 Gray / Yellow = Fog Light
Pin 3 Gray / Black = LED Bar
Pin 4 Gray / Blue = Reversing Light
Pin 5 Gray / Pink = BFD/Brake Light
Pin 6 Black / Blue = Brake Light
Pin 7 Brown = Ground (-)
Pin 8 Yellow / Violet = Brake Light

LCI Right:
Pin 1 Gray / Pink = BFD/Brake Light
Pin 2 Black / Gray = Turn Signal
Pin 3 Brown = Ground (-)
Pin 4 Gray / Black = LED Bar
Pin 5 Gray / Blue = Reversing Light
Pin 6 Gray / Yellow = Fog Light

Coding:

REM:
3061 LceOutputChannels:
SL_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_L_IS_LED = aktiv
SL_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_R_IS_LED = aktiv

SL_2_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_L_IS_LED = aktiv
SL_2_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_R_IS_LED = aktiv

BL_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BL_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BL_L_IS_LED = aktiv
BL_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BL_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BL_R_IS_LED = aktiv

BFD_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BFD_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BFD_L_IS_LED = aktiv
BFD_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BFD_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
BFD_R_IS_LED = aktiv

NSL_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
NSL_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
NSL_L_IS_LED = aktiv
NSL_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
NSL_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
NSL_R_IS_LED = aktiv

FRA_H_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
FRA_H_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
FRA_H_L_IS_LED = aktiv
FRA_H_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
FRA_H_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
FRA_H_R_IS_LED = aktiv

3062 LceLampMapping1:
MAPPING_BREMSL_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)
MAPPING_BREMSL_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)
MAPPING_BRAKEFORCED_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)
MAPPING_BRAKEFORCED_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)
MAPPING_BLINKER_H_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)
MAPPING_BLINKER_H_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)

3063 LceLampMapping2:
MAPPING_NEBELSCHLUSSL_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)
MAPPING_NEBELSCHLUSSL_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 = 13.7V (89)

Images:

Attachment 1660755

Attachment 1660756

Attachment 1660757
Will this work with 2015 335i F30
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      01-31-2022, 08:23 AM   #130
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Did this conversion over the weekend. Followed the guide and all of my lights work with no error messages on the dash!

My only issue is that I put in LED reverse light bulbs and they don't seem that bright?? They come on, but they are more dim than what I have seen in pictures and videos. I added the coding below after installing them.

REM 3061 RFS_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG /nicht_aktiv
REM 3061 RFS_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG /nicht_aktiv
REM 3061 RFS_L_IS_LED /aktiv
REM 3061 RFS_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG /nicht_aktiv
REM 3061 RFS_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG /nicht_aktiv
REM 3061 RFS_R_IS_LED /aktiv

Do I need to change the bulb voltage like the guide had me do for the rest of the bulbs in the tail light?? These are the bulbs I bought.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
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      04-10-2022, 03:55 AM   #131
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Hi Guys,

New to the site, and just been having a look at how to retro fit lci tail lights. Came across this on BimmerCode.

Does this mean i dont have to code the lights individually anymore?
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Last edited by Chris525uk; 04-10-2022 at 06:50 AM..
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      04-18-2022, 12:51 PM   #132
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Tails are already LED on Pre-LCI. Which is how yours is set.

LCI everything is LED except backup lights. So you would need to set TURN LED CONV to yes, FOG LED CONV yes, INNER TAIL to yes, etc.... everything except reverse lights, unless you choose to replace your new LCIs with LED backups at the same time. Then those too.
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