[Jweise26]

Put stock filter back on and codes are still there. Possible the maf is dirty? Maybe I have a crack or leak?(doesnt feel like as I still have no power loss)Or does it take time to disappear? I tried clearing with my P3 gauge but it didnt remove the CEL. Its not exactly meant for that though so im not surprised, but it did work once. Basically, car was running fine before, put on intake and got cel in 2 days. With the CELs it does feel relatively fine, no rough start or anything that I can tell. But after swapping stock back on cel is still there but I only drove about 5 miles! I also should mention I am running a K&N drop in filter. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

2016 BMW M235i 53000 miles
CEL(P00BD & P0171)

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Jweise26

Put stock filter back on and codes are still there. Possible the maf is dirty? Maybe I have a crack or leak?(doesnt feel like as I still have no power loss)Or does it take time to disappear? I tried clearing with my P3 gauge but it didnt remove the CEL. Its not exactly meant for that though so im not surprised, but it did work once. Basically, car was running fine before, put on intake and got cel in 2 days. With the CELs it does feel relatively fine, no rough start or anything that I can tell. But after swapping stock back on cel is still there but I only drove about 5 miles! I also should mention I am running a K&N drop in filter. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

2016 BMW M235i 53000 miles
CEL(P00BD & P0171)

It's the MPPK and K&N teamed together. It's too much air flow for the MAF to be happy about. I'd trash the K&N filter and go OEM. The OEM filter flows just fine, will entrain way more debris, and you can still hear the extra turbo whistle and diverter valve noises.

The reason you can't clear the codes is because the MAF isn't happy with the setup.

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

It's the MPPK and K&N teamed together. It's too much air flow for the MAF to be happy about. I'd trash the K&N filter and go OEM. The OEM filter flows just fine, will entrain way more debris, and you can still hear the extra turbo whistle and diverter valve noises.

Also, 5 miles isn't enough to clear codes like this. It needs a number of miles and restarts.

I seriously appreciate the quick reply! I had read that somewhere else but wasnt too sure. Going to gove my maf a clean, wait for code to clear, then swap on the stock filter and mppk box. Hopefully that’ll be good enough to sort this out! Thank you again!

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Jweise26

I seriously appreciate the quick reply! I had read that somewhere else but wasnt too sure. Going to gove my maf a clean, wait for code to clear, then swap on the stock filter and mppk box. Hopefully that’ll be good enough to sort this out! Thank you again!

The fact that the code appeared right after the MPPK install means it's extremely unlikely that the MAF is dirty. It's the higher than expected air flow. Not until you change the airbox or filter will the codes clear.

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

The fact that the code appeared right after the MPPK install means it's extremely unlikely that the MAF is dirty. It's the higher than expected air flow. Not until you change the airbox or filter will the codes clear.

I did change back to stock box, still K&N filter which threw no codes before. But CEL is still on. Like you said though I think I need more miles and starts for it to completely reset? Thanks

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Jweise26

I did change back to stock box, still K&N filter which threw no codes before. But CEL is still on. Like you said though I think I need more miles and starts for it to completely reset? Thanks

It may take some miles and restarts for the codes to clear or you could just clear them yourself. If the codes don't clear, then something else is going on. Typically an airbox not fully seated will not throw a code. It's usually a very flow flow intake or a leak after the MAF that causes these particular codes.

I'd just get rid of that K&N filter though. Nothing good comes from them. Also, nearly every high performance car OEM runs quality paper filters. I'd stick with that.

If you end up going back to a paper filter with the MPPK, you need to give the motor around 50+ miles and a day or two for the MPPK to become fully audible with the turbo and diverter valve noises. Why it takes time, I have no idea but that's what happens.

[714BMW]

Originally Posted by Jweise26

Put stock filter back on and codes are still there. Possible the maf is dirty? Maybe I have a crack or leak?(doesnt feel like as I still have no power loss)Or does it take time to disappear? I tried clearing with my P3 gauge but it didnt remove the CEL. Its not exactly meant for that though so im not surprised, but it did work once. Basically, car was running fine before, put on intake and got cel in 2 days. With the CELs it does feel relatively fine, no rough start or anything that I can tell. But after swapping stock back on cel is still there but I only drove about 5 miles! I also should mention I am running a K&N drop in filter. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

2016 BMW M235i 53000 miles
CEL(P00BD & P0171)

Very weird. I have been running the AFE Pro Dry Filter for a while now and did the MPPK airbox mod about a month ago and luckily no codes or idle roughness. Maybe try cleaning the MAF and clearing the codes?

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by 714BMW

Very weird. I have been running the AFE Pro Dry Filter for a while now and did the MPPK airbox mod about a month ago and luckily no codes or idle roughness. Maybe try cleaning the MAF and clearing the codes?

Going to give that a try after work today. Also like Xutvjet said the combo of the K&N with mppk could be doing it. Your afe filter might be more compatible in some way... anyways gonna give a clean then put stock filter and mppk on. Hopefully that works

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by 714BMW

Very weird. I have been running the AFE Pro Dry Filter for a while now and did the MPPK airbox mod about a month ago and luckily no codes or idle roughness. Maybe try cleaning the MAF and clearing the codes?

I too ran my MPPK with an AFE Pro Dry filter and didn't have issues. I went back to the OEM filter after about a year because I didn't like the way the AFE Pro Dry filter made the car drive. It was hard to explain, but the car felt strained.

I've heard lots of instances of K&N filters and similar oiled filters causing MAF codes issues on BMWs. I don't think it's the oil collecting on the MAF that's the issue, but rather how high flow these filters are. They really are unrestrictive. Thing is, even the stock airbox with a paper filter is capable of flowing plenty of air even for a EWG Stage 2 N55.

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

It may take some miles and restarts for the codes to clear or you could just clear them yourself. If the codes don't clear, then something else is going on. Typically an airbox not fully seated will not throw a code. It's usually a very flow flow intake or a leak after the MAF that causes these particular codes.

I'd just get rid of that K&N filter though. Nothing good comes from them. Also, nearly every high performance car OEM runs quality paper filters. I'd stick with that.

If you end up going back to a paper filter with the MPPK, you need to give the motor around 50+ miles and a day or two for the MPPK to become fully audible with the turbo and diverter valve noises. Why it takes time, I have no idea but that's what happens.

Thanks for the advice. I tried clearing the code through my P3 gauge and it did stay on, will have to update after more driving and cleaning the maf. Interesting that the mppk box has some break in. It honestly sounded really nice out the box. Must be great once its in broken in with the system

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

I too ran my MPPK with an AFE Pro Dry filter and didn't have issues. I went back to the OEM filter after about a year because I didn't like the way the AFE Pro Dry filter made the car drive. It was hard to explain, but the car felt strained.

I've heard lots of instances of K&N filters and similar oiled filters causing MAF codes issues on BMWs. I don't think it's the oil collecting on the MAF that's the issue, but rather how high flow these filters are. They really are unrestrictive. Thing is, even the stock airbox with a paper filter is capable of flowing plenty of air even for a EWG Stage 2 N55.

You were right! Got home and turned the car on with stock box + k&n filter, no more cel. The combination must do it as you say. Going to order a new stock drop in filter in the meantime(bmw part #13718616909). Also do you have any idea how the dinan cai would act with the mppk box? I’ve been interested in buying one, but am just waiting to do my chargepipe first. Once the chargepipes get back in stock I am ordering one of those. Worried that the dinan + mppk will throw a code too now...

Edit: mentioning i did not clean maf

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Jweise26

You were right! Got home and turned the car on with stock box + k&n filter, no more cel. The combination must do it as you say. Going to order a new stock drop in filter in the meantime(bmw part #13718616909). Also do you have any idea how the dinan cai would act with the mppk box? I’ve been interested in buying one, but am just waiting to do my chargepipe first. Once the chargepipes get back in stock I am ordering one of those. Worried that the dinan + mppk will throw a code too now...

Edit: mentioning i did not clean maf

I think it's possible that it may throw a code with the Dinan intake. IMO, I'd save the money and do a high quality catted downpipe if you haven't already or the M Performance exhaust (sounds epic, OEM fitment and quality) or other enhancements.

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

I think it's possible that it may throw a code with the Dinan intake. IMO, I'd save the money and do a high quality catted downpipe if you haven't already or the M Performance exhaust (sounds epic, OEM fitment and quality) or other enhancements.

I see... the only reason im really interested is because I know m2s have the mppk box standard and ive read they run it fine. Maybe its because they are tuned up more from factory. I only just bought the car 4 months ago so im not trying to go to crazy yet. But I would like to get the MPE at some point. Previous owner did a muffler delete which sounds great but does drone a bit and make vibration due to that. I always wondered does the muffler delete make it perform worse compared to MPE?

[AmuroRay]

I think I've had more intakes than anyone else on this side of the forum

BMS
Dinan with the M2 lower
Stock upper with the M2 lower with paper filter
Stock upper with the M2 lower and AFE
Stock airbox with AFE
CTS

The stock box and the Dinan were the worst. The stock (with an upgraded inlet) was lower on power and more laggy.

The Dinan had a weird throttle, and felt inconsistent.

The M2 w/AFE was the second best, it did everything perfectly. I did have an issue with a rough idle after I cleaned the filter the first time, but that was cleaned up when I cleaned the maf and reset adaptations.

CTS is the best - it sounds better, has more pep than the stock box and has no CEL or any other issue.

As for your question on the Muffler delete: it will make more power than another "muffler" but we are talking like 5whp. I have the MPE and it's a little raspy at 2000rpm with the Catless downpipe, otherwise it sounds good with no drone.

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

I think I've had more intakes than anyone else on this side of the forum

BMS
Dinan with the M2 lower
Stock upper with the M2 lower with paper filter
Stock upper with the M2 lower and AFE
Stock airbox with AFE
CTS

The stock box and the Dinan were the worst. The stock (with an upgraded inlet) was lower on power and more laggy.

The Dinan had a weird throttle, and felt inconsistent.

The M2 w/AFE was the second best, it did everything perfectly. I did have an issue with a rough idle after I cleaned the filter the first time, but that was cleaned up when I cleaned the maf and reset adaptations.

CTS is the best - it sounds better, has more pep than the stock box and has no CEL or any other issue.

As for your question on the Muffler delete: it will make more power than another "muffler" but we are talking like 5whp. I have the MPE and it's a little raspy at 2000rpm with the Catless downpipe, otherwise it sounds good with no drone.

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

I think I've had more intakes than anyone else on this side of the forum

BMS
Dinan with the M2 lower
Stock upper with the M2 lower with paper filter
Stock upper with the M2 lower and AFE
Stock airbox with AFE
CTS

The stock box and the Dinan were the worst. The stock (with an upgraded inlet) was lower on power and more laggy.

The Dinan had a weird throttle, and felt inconsistent.

The M2 w/AFE was the second best, it did everything perfectly. I did have an issue with a rough idle after I cleaned the filter the first time, but that was cleaned up when I cleaned the maf and reset adaptations.

CTS is the best - it sounds better, has more pep than the stock box and has no CEL or any other issue.

As for your question on the Muffler delete: it will make more power than another "muffler" but we are talking like 5whp. I have the MPE and it's a little raspy at 2000rpm with the Catless downpipe, otherwise it sounds good with no drone.

I see thank you for the input! I wanted to try and keep a closed intake system, the cts intake does look nice though! Im just worried that may throw a code too but I am reading a lot of people dont get any from it.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Jweise26

I see thank you for the input! I wanted to try and keep a closed intake system, the cts intake does look nice though! Im just worried that may throw a code too but I am reading a lot of people dont get any from it.

The CTS doen't throw a code, and there is no benefit of a closed system save sound. If you want a closed system, stick with a drop in filter, and the M2 lower. The intake doesn't really become a restriction until you swap your Inlet out

[Jweise26]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

The CTS doen't throw a code, and there is no benefit of a closed system save sound. If you want a closed system, stick with a drop in filter, and the M2 lower. The intake doesn't really become a restriction until you swap your Inlet out

Well thats good to hear. Ill definitely look into that intake a little more. It does sound amazing from clips I've heard. Does it matter if I get an intake before changing my stock charge pipe? Im ordering the vrsf charge pipe once its in stock.

[AmuroRay]

Nope

[atek]

I can concur open intake like the CTS & Injen do sound amazing. Simply intoxicating to drive.

[XutvJet]

The MP exhaust is amazing, especially when teamed with a high quality catted DP. I would suggest doing both. It's pricey, but worth it. Teamed together, the mods are good for around 20-25whp and wtq and give your M235 near M2 N55 power. Don't cheap out. The MP exhaust has no drone and a quality catted DP won't throw a code. I have the HJS Euro 6 catted DP and it hasn't thrown a code in 4 years of use.