[rwalker]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

That would be nice thanks

38mm OD, 13mm ID, 1mm thick

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by rwalker

38mm OD, 13mm ID, 1mm thick

Thanks!

So the washer goes in between the LCAs and either one of the inside sides of the tabs?

What material is the washer made of?

[m3cmm]

Originally Posted by rwalker

This imperfect fit was causing noise (slight knock) in certain situations.

When I first had the LCAs installed and went to the track, I had a frequent knock...close to but not quite at full lock - both forward and reverse. It occurred very often, but I couldn't re-create it 100% of the time. Usually I had to be in sport mode, and driving aggressively to hear it. I took it back to the installer, and he torqued it down more, but I still get it sometimes, just much less often. It seems like so many people have this mod on the forum, that I just assumed it was something with my install.

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

Thanks!

So the washer goes in between the LCAs and either one of the inside sides of the tabs?

What material is the washer made of?

stainless, I think... just had them kicking around among spares

[casualDIYer]

I'm curious if anyone else needed the 1 mm spacer. Planning to go LCAS TS route and now making up my shopping list.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by menncars

I'm curious if anyone else needed the 1 mm spacer. Planning to go LCAS TS route and now making up my shopping list.

No 1mm spacer required with my m4 LCA

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

No 1mm spacer required with my m4 TS

Good to know. I have everything sitting in my living room waiting for install but those washers. I hope I don't need them.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

No 1mm spacer required with my m4 TS

Would you say your driving style is gentlemanly/lady-like, a kind cruiser of cobblestones, confident that in your bouggy (the new term for bourgeois according to my teen) Euro sedan, that gets you get the unseen nod of approval from upper social classes or do you thrash the sh*t out of it not really caring what others think?

There could be a middle ground too.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

Thanks!

So the washer goes in between the LCAs and either one of the inside sides of the tabs?

What material is the washer made of?

Pikachu did you need the 1 mm spacer?

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by menncars

Pikachu did you need the 1 mm spacer?

I didn't put anything as I had no idea that the stock would be different width...
not sure if you need it or not....

I don't have it... and kind of a pain to loosen the nut to put one in...

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by menncars

Would you say your driving style is gentlemanly/lady-like, a kind cruiser of cobblestones, confident that in your bouggy (the new term for bourgeois according to my teen) Euro sedan, that gets you get the unseen nod of approval from upper social classes or do you thrash the sh*t out of it not really caring what others think?

There could be a middle ground too.

Car multi-tasks as my DD, dad's taxi (ferrying kids about to/from their sporting and social agendas), business commuting and 5-6 trackdays a year. When solo and conditions plus mood dictates- car gets driven as an M-lite should.

[juld0zer]

I hope you guys are all aware that the M135/235 and M140/240 have a unique knuckle cast with an extra half degree of negative camber versus a standard F2x knuckle. You can buy replacement knuckles as a way of compensating for component wear/damage causing excessive negative camber as a +0.5 degree (vs stock) knuckle. I've only ever had to order original knuckles to rebuild the entire suspension following collision damage. So for a 220i for example, you could buy a standard M135i knuckle to get extra -0.5 degrees.

A lot of workshops and smashies are unaware of this, order a standard F2x knuckle and then the alignment bloke is baffled as to why the camber is still out of spec.

So folks with non M cars, keep that in mind as youe end result may look different to someone else's M135i with the same arms.

[Bee Pee]

Juldozer

Yes am well aware

BP

[jmwilson125]

Hey guys I just did this install today. Thanks to this thread it was a super easy install. I brought it to the nearest shop and got an alignment done. I wanted to know what you guys think? It seems like they could have done a better job, but am still pretty new to alignment specs. I asked for the specs in blue and here is what I got. Notice one of the pages is the before shot

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by menncars

I'm curious if anyone else needed the 1 mm spacer. Planning to go LCAS TS route and now making up my shopping list.

I needed two washers on each side. Not sure exactly what they are, but my buddy found them pretty fast at home Depot. He just brought the bolt with him while I stayed under the car and kept tightening.

The stack of two is the thickness of a nickel, maybe a hair more. I don't have my dialed caliper on my right now.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

Hey guys I just did this install today. Thanks to this thread it was a super easy install. I brought it to the nearest shop and got an alignment done. I wanted to know what you guys think? It seems like they could have done a better job, but am still pretty new to alignment specs. I asked for the specs in blue and here is what I got. Notice one of the pages is the before shot

So I've been looking at this more the past couple days. I think they actually did a decent job with the alignment . I was a little concerned with the camber differential from left to right, but I think with my weight in the driver seat it will probably be pretty close to -1.85 and -1.85.

Really will hopefully be -1.3, -1.3 ish.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

So I've been looking at this more the past couple days. I think they actually did a decent job with the alignment . I was a little concerned with the camber differential from left to right, but I think with my weight in the driver seat it will probably be pretty close to -1.85 and -1.85.

Really will hopefully be -1.3, -1.3 ish.

0.4 deg difference in camber between L&R isn't great

as a comparison, here's my alignment with F8x LCA only



and now with F8x LCA + TS - you will see L&R delta in -ve camber is much less with TS added than without.

[jmwilson125]

[QUOTE=Bee Pee;21706602]0.4 deg difference in camber between L&R isn't great

as a comparison, here's my alignment with F8x LCA only

Thanks for the comparison. The last shot is the before, idk why they uploaded in that order. The pictures labeled front and rear are the current setup with LCA and ts.

Now it is much closer. Also I have read online that some people say driver weight matters and others don't. The only quantitative data I saw was one driver said their weight change camber 1/10th -2/10th of a degree. Obviously this depends on driver weight, vehicle, and suspension setup greatly.

Being 210 lbds I'm going to tell myself that it's evens out the -1.7 and -2 to -1.85 and -1.85 haha.

[OverRev]

Have a M235i with H&R springs, I kinda want the the LCAs for additional front camber, but i wonder if i dont change the TSs, will i end up with a big difference on the caster from L&R? or they'll both increase together? i dont wanna change the TSs because i am afraid of getting rub since the front 235s are already touching a little at bumpers.

[Ace604]

Originally Posted by OverRev

Have a M235i with H&R springs, I kinda want the the LCAs for additional front camber, but i wonder if i dont change the TSs, will i end up with a big difference on the caster from L&R? or they'll both increase together? i dont wanna change the TSs because i am afraid of getting rub since the front 235s are already touching a little at bumpers.

Changing only the LCAs will push your wheels closer towards the front of the fender resulting in less clearance and more susceptibility to rub. Changing the TS in conjunction corrects this for the most part, returning the wheel to the original position (less likely to rub fender).

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Ace604

Changing only the LCAs will push your wheels closer towards the front of the fender resulting in less clearance and more susceptibility to rub. Changing the TS in conjunction corrects this for the most part, returning the wheel to the original position (less likely to rub fender).

Agreed - LCA only moves wheel fwd in the fender well so much more chance of rubbing at joint line where plastic front panel; meets metal fender. LCA + TS - less likely to rub as wheel stays in stuck position within fender well.

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by m3cmm

When I first had the LCAs installed and went to the track, I had a frequent knock...close to but not quite at full lock - both forward and reverse. It occurred very often, but I couldn't re-create it 100% of the time. Usually I had to be in sport mode, and driving aggressively to hear it. I took it back to the installer, and he torqued it down more, but I still get it sometimes, just much less often. It seems like so many people have this mod on the forum, that I just assumed it was something with my install.

I get a knock/click at close to full lock in reverse when parallel parking. I also do have the ectra spacer in there?