01-20-2017, 06:09 AM | #23 |
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Its nice to know that the different knuckles exist
That said if the issue that is trying to be solved is camber then how exactly is replacing both steering knuckes more economical than installing camber plates? Camber plate installation is trivial compared to steering knuckle replacement IMHO |
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01-20-2017, 12:28 PM | #24 | |
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On the edc shocks there is a pin, this locates the shock in the knuckle and prevents you from going too low, but also the shock is stepped. I don't see how you could get 7mm lower without grinding the knuckle or something, If shocks were loose, they should settle at bottom no more than locator, if real loose would make a lot of noise. shocks are held by pinch bolts. mine is not x drive so maybe this is different? I see why now you used the bushings on x drive. Superpro are good quality, I have them for rear diff and subframe. |
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01-20-2017, 06:42 PM | #25 | |
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Last edited by x233; 01-22-2017 at 05:15 AM.. |
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01-21-2017, 01:48 AM | #26 | |
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01-21-2017, 03:13 AM | #27 | |
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Last edited by x233; 01-21-2017 at 03:32 AM.. |
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01-21-2017, 06:12 AM | #28 | |
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Bush kit 4306 is for tension struts and affect castor angle. http://www.superpro.com.au/find/supe...999501544/vid- Glad we got that sorted....
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01-21-2017, 02:38 PM | #29 | |
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Last edited by x233; 01-22-2017 at 05:16 AM.. |
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02-27-2017, 01:59 PM | #30 | |
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Fortunately for me, the dealer will take the parts back for full refund and I am only out the labor for R&R one side. |
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02-27-2017, 04:15 PM | #31 | |
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ps: it's confusing that the car may not always have the parts that come up via VIN check, e.g., RealOEM says my shocks part numbers should be such as such (as per VIN) but they really are from a US 2016 model (per RealOEM site) and have different part numbers from what's "supposed" to be on a European 2015 car. Last edited by x233; 02-28-2017 at 08:43 AM.. |
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07-16-2017, 07:57 PM | #32 |
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I've just installed the superpro lower control arm bushings. Pretty straight forward install with pressing in the new bushing being the hardest part. I still haven't gotten the car aligned yet but from my digital bubble level, it looks like I'm sitting at around - 1.2° of camber.
Initial impressions is the steering feel changed a bit (got a bit heavier) and the initial turn in improved. However the front end now feels looser... I'll still eventually get camber plates and when that day comes, I might swap the stock bushings back in. |
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07-16-2017, 11:15 PM | #34 |
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Interesting thread, and very timely for me as I'm about to adopt one of the options for increasing negative camber - thanks x233 !
However with the pricing for those knuckles (even if I don't have them already installed on my car by the factory, which is pretty easy to check), it seems cheaper to go with the F8x longer LCAs with TSes. I got a quote from my Dealer for all the parts involve in LCA swap (less the spacers required), and it's some Euro 550 (including VAT). As to the camber-adjustable bushes, everyone is talking about the Superpro version (part SPF4303K) - why not the Powerflex ones which are claimed to be 8% stiffer than OEM (part PFF5-1902G here: https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...-3304/1.html)? Any particular reason for that? The camber adjustment range is the same for both (-0.5 - 0.5) deg... Piotr
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07-16-2017, 11:39 PM | #35 |
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SPL parts will hopefully make some street version of their adjustable front control arms soon.
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07-17-2017, 01:17 AM | #36 |
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Are the camber-adjustable bushes (like Powerflex) a proven solution - don't they turn (effectively changing the camber), or fail sooner than OEM ones?
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07-17-2017, 08:25 AM | #37 |
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There really isn't much information out there for the adjustable bushes for our cars. I'll update on the durability and how well they stay after a while (might need a reminder). As for Superpro vs Powerflex, I chose Superpro because honestly, I've never heard of Powerflex until now. I probably would've went with powerflex since they advertise to be stiffer than stock... but then again, I just tried looking and it's pretty hard to find a Canadian/US pricing for the ones we need without having to call shops.
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07-17-2017, 10:57 AM | #38 |
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Ran full SPL arms on my 370z. Top quality.
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07-17-2017, 11:40 AM | #39 |
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So would this;
http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...e-version.html And this; http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...x-e8x-f8x.html be a viable option? Is the NVH the reason people are not using them? I assume a streetable version would have urethane or rubber bushings. |
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07-17-2017, 11:50 AM | #40 | |
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I noticed no additional NVH when I ran them. I know some people report it after running them awhile and have to have the ball joints rebuilt/replaced. I ran them less than a year since I didn't have the car that long. Edit: The price of those will be $800+ then you pay for install. ROI on a proper coilover setup is better I think. Still not sure why there is such a fascination in the 2 series community of ignoring the obvious solution to get camber adjustment.
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07-17-2017, 03:55 PM | #42 |
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07-17-2017, 04:04 PM | #43 | |
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I think its the reluctance to deal with EDC to go that road (coilover). Most camber plates with stock shock seem to have minor to serious shortcomings. That leaves LCA/TS |
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07-17-2017, 06:35 PM | #44 |
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Camber plates are camber plates, they do exactly what they were designed for. They give you adjustable camber as the primary function, and NVH only increases slightly. Vorshlag, Dinan, and GCv3's seem to live in the upper echelon of plates. My GCv2's have served me well thus far.
For the price, plates are the best option with the most versatility. But swapping in these other expensive options; IE. knuckles or M2/M3/M4 LCA/TS', experimenting with a geometry that wasn't intended for your car, or using more expensive aftermarket control arms are pretty silly. But unless your a prude that doesn't really need camber, well then you don't need camber plates. If all your looking to do is drive on/off ramps fast, then you don't need any of these camber solutions and they are a waste of money. If you are looking to do more than a few HDPE's/track days and thus increase the longevity of your expensive tires then camber plates are the best solution. And get rid of your Michelin PSS tires and get into a proper 200 tread wear tire for the track. PS. if your apt on coilovers, you can swap in any non-EDC variant coilover, and have any coder code out EDC, or code it back when you restore the OEM's. |
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