Poll - Broke Charge Pipe? |
View Poll Results: Have you broke the charge pipe? | |||
YES | 20 | 28.17% | |
NO | 47 | 66.20% | |
DON'T KNOW | 4 | 5.63% | |
Voters: 71. You may not vote on this poll |
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08-07-2018, 01:36 PM | #45 |
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And that's exactly where they fail 99% of the time, it seems. The aluminum aftermarket "upgrade" prevents this from ever re-occurring..
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08-07-2018, 07:04 PM | #46 | ||
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08-07-2018, 11:33 PM | #48 |
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My M235 has 25k miles and is 2.5 years old. The charge pipe hasn't broken. I did take a 3.5" hose clamp and put it just under the charge pipe clip. Between the hose clamp is an approximate 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick rubber seal to keep the clamp from creating direct pressure points on the rigid portion of the charge pipe.
I've been running this for about 6 months now. It's an experiment. I'm hopeful the clamp would help reinforce the charge pipe rigid plastic lip as I believe the lateral movements of the motor teamed with high underhood heat is what ends up breaking the pipe's plastic lip. The clamp may help take the load off. I don't believe boost is the real problem, but rather the constant movement and lots of heat cycling. Lots of people say a high load, high boost situation is when the pipe breaks thus the belief it's the boost that breaks it. I think what happens is the pipe cracks and stays on for a while and then a heavy boost situation hits and the pipe breaks fully and pops off. |
08-08-2018, 01:23 AM | #49 | |
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08-08-2018, 08:49 AM | #50 |
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had charge pipe replaced under warranty yesterday.
dont have the receipt with me in hand, but it did read that they '...cleaned upstream of the charge pipe...' or something like that. What does that entail, the cleaning ? do they spray a solvent to dissolve dirt and oil "? |
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08-08-2018, 10:12 AM | #52 | |
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^ There's no good way to accurately predict or tell when it's about to go, but it will happen sooner or later so you might as well just replace it, especially if you're planning on modding.
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That said, I'm also inclined to believe that the culprit is movement and heat cycle related. I don't know about a crack developing and staying like that until it finally lets go, but I can certainly see the material being weakened over time before bursting one day due to the stress. I recall my CP let go right upon upshifting when there's inherent movement and less boost. |
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08-08-2018, 11:25 AM | #53 | |
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I did make sure to not overtighten the clamp. People tend to overtorque band clamps. The bolt on the clamp is a 6 or 7 mm. That mean max torque is somewhere in the order of 3 to 5 ft/lbs. I tightened the clamp using a flat head screwdriver so that I couldn't overtorque it. I just wanted enough pressure to help offer support to the pipe lip without putting excessive pressure on it. It's rigid afterall and didn't want the clamp to create a pressure point and crack the lip.
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08-08-2018, 11:43 AM | #54 | |
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The front of the charge pipe is mounted to the intercooler which doesn't move. The other end of the pipe is mounted to the throttle body/motor which is always moving, especially on hard acceleration and shifts. The accordion section of the charge pipe is to offer some movement between the pipe ends and the pipe mount on the engine helps reduce pipe movement/load as well. However, there is still some tugging/lifting load on the lip of the charge pipe (at the throttle body) as the motor rocks around, especially on the portion of the pipe lip facing the front of the engine. If you look at where most of the charge pipes break, it's in this area. I think what happens is a small hairline crack starts to form in the lip after lots of heat cycles and the constant stressing of the lip. It continues to get worse over time, probably rapidly. Then one day you hammer the gas, you downshift, the motor rocks violently in the mounts, boost hits very hard a split second after the shift, the crack says enough due to the violet rocking teamed with a big gush of air and POP, the pipe lip breaks completely and the pipe is pushed off the throttle body. Adding some level of additional support at the pipe lip may help combat this issue. With all that said though, the OEM charge pipe should be considered a wear item and owners should expect to replace them at least every 5 years (or once if you buy a quality aftermarket one) because they will eventually break.
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08-08-2018, 11:59 AM | #55 |
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The design changed quite a bit for the B58 engine, with a bolted flange at the throttle body and a more flexible mid-pipe connector, as opposed to the accordion section.
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08-08-2018, 12:08 PM | #56 |
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happened twice two me so far...
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08-08-2018, 12:47 PM | #57 |
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That is EXACTLY what mine looked like 2 weeks ago. At least it's consistent lol.
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10-14-2018, 02:25 PM | #58 |
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count me in
Mine blew today, stock car. Was in sport plus, came out of corner hard(street driving) and when I let off, car hiccupped and then limp mode. Limped home, lucky only a few miles, went straight to the charge pipe. Blew apart a big chunk of the pipe and clip is missing...
I'm in warranty till December, but I don't want another plastic charge pipe..... 2015 M235i 22,345 miles |
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10-14-2018, 02:40 PM | #59 | |
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I replaced mine with Evolution Raceworks from Xtreme Power House. Mike gives excellent customer service! I also did an intercooler upgrade at the same time....combination gave very nice results (although I've done no quantitative measuring...just driving feel).
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11-07-2018, 02:36 PM | #60 |
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i have an m135i stock with mpe
1st charge pipe blew at 28000km(17500miles) 2nd charge pipe blew at 62000km (38700miles) this was fitted in June 2018 SA told me bmw have strengthened the plastic 'welds' on the revised charge pipe. will be fitting an ER one next week when i go FBO |
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11-07-2018, 05:35 PM | #61 |
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Anyone?
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11-07-2018, 06:29 PM | #63 | |
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Do you know if there's a photo available that clearly shows which of all the stuff under the hood is the chargepipe (I'm not going to recognize it just because I'm looking right at it)?
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11-10-2018, 11:01 PM | #64 |
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Regardless, if your tuned, CP & IC is a must unless you drive your car like a chevy volt. If you have a feather foot, C/P upgrade is more of a preventative measure. Whether your driving F22 or F82, do it!
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11-11-2018, 07:58 AM | #65 |
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I would leave it stock, If the charge pipe blows, it's a good indication that you're pushing the car too hard, next is possible the motor or turbo..
There are hundreds of thousands BMWs out there with stock charge pipes, that survive the life of the vehicle; so if yours grande, ease up there or get a more capable car.. |
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11-11-2018, 09:19 AM | #66 |
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You cant beat the good old fashioned sierra Cosworth polished steel pipes. The use of plastics in these applications has never been brilliant, cheap and easy to fit but not able to withstand some of the temperature extremes and increased boost pressure. My Renault 5 turbo of the 80s had a similar achilles heel where the intercooler inlet was a plastic part that was spring clipped to the alloy intercooler body, the tops would blow off regularly until a motorsport firm began selling one piece alloy units.
Last edited by Lew Carrum; 11-11-2018 at 09:49 AM.. |
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