[pikcachu]

well... I meant not at least in the Extreme Performance Summer or Track & competition category...

PSS is probably the best tire in the Max perf category but kind of soft sidewall so will tend to roll over if not over inflated a bit

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by Liquidpaper

How wide are the wheels? 7.5 square? If so, stick with 225/40.

If you have an 8 inch in the back, move to 255/35 tire. The rolling diameter between a 225/40 and a 255/35 is almost exactly the same.

current setup is 7.5in with 225/40 square from the factory. would like to have 18x8.5 square

[Liquidpaper]

Originally Posted by ocN55

current setup is 7.5in with 225/40 square from the factory. would like to have 18x8.5 square

If you're willing to get some camber plates, then my setup is a good choice. APEX ARC-8's run about 290 a wheel, are very strong, and weigh 18.5 lbs per wheel. They make an ET 45 offset, which would be "better" for our cars (than the ET 38 that I bought), but if you want to run a 255 tire in the front, you'll probably need a 10mm spacer and some camber.

And they look cool too.

[Supernaut]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

well... I meant not at least in the Extreme Performance Summer or Track & competition category...

PSS is probably the best tire in the Max perf category but kind of soft sidewall so will tend to roll over if not over inflated a bit

Gotcha. I love my Dunlop Direzza's even if they are loud as heck when down to the last depths of tread. I guess I'll have to go off size a bit or stay in the PSS's performance range.

[e46m3lol]

Looking for a stock bmw 228i that is interested in getting a free pair of hotchkis front and rear sway bars at no cost. Need the vehicle right away. Text or call me asap at 951 623 3140

Thanks in advance
-Gilbert

[pikcachu]

is there any link for the camber plates ?

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

is there any link for the camber plates ?

You have to call GC, their site hasn't been updated.

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by rwalker

You have to call GC, their site hasn't been updated.

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Liquidpaper

If you're willing to get some camber plates, then my setup is a good choice. APEX ARC-8's run about 290 a wheel, are very strong, and weigh 18.5 lbs per wheel. They make an ET 45 offset, which would be "better" for our cars (than the ET 38 that I bought), but if you want to run a 255 tire in the front, you'll probably need a 10mm spacer and some camber.

And they look cool too.

What driving mode do you run on the track?

DSC ON - DTC ON - DSC OFF ?

wondering if any specific mode have a direct effect on brake pad wear

[Liquidpaper]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

What driving mode do you run on the track?

DSC ON - DTC ON - DSC OFF ?

wondering if any specific mode have a direct effect on brake pad wear

DSC off all the time. More fun/better learning experience.

[BLACKSNOMO]

Originally Posted by Liquidpaper

A few months back, I thought about going to a 245/40 tire on the rear (stock wheels) so I could move away from the PSS (no one makes 245/35/18 other than the Michelin in the PSS).

However, you're going to run into the issue of a larger rolling diameter. So, if you don't know, the three numbers in a tire rating (245/40/18) stand for three different things:

245=mm tread width
40=sidewall height as a function of % tread width
18=diameter of tire

So, if you are going from a 245/35/18 to a 245/40/18, you are ending up with a 5% increase in sidewall height. This is bad. It really screws up several systems in the car which rely on a certain rolling diameter for the wheel/tire (gearing, speedometer, TPMS, traction control). You want to stay as close to the stock rolling diameter as possible. Use willtheyfit.com as a good calculator.

Here, you'd end up with a speedo error of -3.75% (you're moving 3.75% faster than what your speedo says) moving to the 40 sidewall. This is very, very bad (you NEVER want to have an error over 3%, and anything over 1.5% is not so good).

If you want to keep the stock wheels, you're better off running 255/35/18 in the back and 225/40/18 in the front. Everyone makes those sizes, and although the manufacturer specs say that you need an 8.5"minimum to run a 255 wide tire, you'll be fine with an 8" wheel. I was running 255/35 Direzza II's on my stock rear tires, and they did just fine.

On tire rack"'s winter tire selection for the "m235 ix staggered tire they allow 215/50 r17 tires which are 25.7" dia. IF these are in fact O.K. it would open the possibility of 245/40r 18 which are also 25.7" . Mistake's get expensive,I 'll take any help I can get.

[Liquidpaper]

Bump for update in OP.

[BBMMWW333]

How many litter of Break Fluid do I need if I want to flush my Break Fluid for track use? And what Brand do you guys recommend?

Originally Posted by Liquidpaper

Ladies and Gents:

I've caught the bug and have been very slowly tweaking my car (235i) to be (more) track capable.

So far I've:

Gotten a P3 Gauge (oil temp);
Switched to Dunlop Direzza II tires;
Put in ATE 200 Fluid; and,
Purchased (and have an appointment to install) camber plates.


What has everyone else done? I've tried to keep my modifications down to the essentials/reversible, and so far it's a blast to drive on the track.

Has anyone gone in a more dedicated direction? Brake kits? Stainless lines? Track dedicated pads? Lighter wheels? Rocket boosters? I'd like to get a master thread started about suspension/car setup for track use.

UPDATE:

Okay, so I've lost my mind and decided I'm going to keep the car past lease, so I took the plunge and started modding.

Here is the full (for now) list:

MP Black Kidneys
MP Exhaust
MP Stainless Pedals
Ground Control Camber Plates (getting a re-alignment soon, too aggressive atm)
H&R Sport Springs
Challenge F22 Stainless Lines
ATE 200 Fluid
Porterfield R4-S Pads
APEX 18x8.5 ET 38 in Hyper Black x4; Direzza II 255/35/18 x 4
P3 Vent Gauge
Deist Custom 6 Point Snap-In Harness (yes, I am going to have the floor drilled for eye-bolts, because racecar)

Next on List:

MP LSD

I think after those mods, I'll be satisfied for now. Im waiting for a tune though. I don't want a piggy unit. Gintani (who is close to me) is working on an F22 tune (already did the F8X tunes at the software level), or maybe if they come out with an F22 MPPK, I'll do that, but I really don't want a piggy box. Considering how hard I run the thing, I'd probably do an intercooler upgrade with any sort of tune.

Anyone else do anything recently?

[Liquidpaper]

Originally Posted by GTR886

How many litter of Break Fluid do I need if I want to flush my Break Fluid for track use? And what Brand do you guys recommend?

It's about 1 liter of fluid (I think). I use ATE 200, but Motul 600, 660, or any similar high-boiling point fluid should work.

[zipphreak]

Is there any special bleeding procedure that needs to be done through the computer for the ABS / etc.

-Paul

[casper83]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Is there any special bleeding procedure that needs to be done through the computer for the ABS / etc.

-Paul

+1

I tried flushing the system this past weekend using a vacuum style bleeder and could not get fluid to come out.

[SteveInfante]

Did you try doing it the old fashioned way with someone else pumping the brakes?

[casper83]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

Did you try doing it the old fashioned way with someone else pumping the brakes?

No, didn't have anyone else around. I did press the brake with a long stick the best I could and some fluid came out.

Maybe I have to do it the old fashion way with a helper?

[SteveInfante]

Might be easier in the long run to just find a neighborhood kid to pump the brakes and learn something in the process.