DIY F22 Spring Install w/ Pictures (EASY)

SlickShift · 08-27-2017, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickShift

Thank you for the thorough DIY. Happy to see it's much less involved than the Z4M coilovers I did last year (don't ever disassemble a convertible top shelf).

Important question is how is the ride? I swore to never lower a car again but I can be swayed.

I was in the same boat as you, except with lowering springs. I've ruined a few cars with them!

I decided to try out these springs because Dinan let a bunch of auto journalists/YouTubers try out their fully catalogued M235i (includes the springs) and they all loved the ride.

Overall it feels practically the same. The only real difference is felt with the suspension in sport mode which is noticeably firmer. I personally don't think the car is under damped.

That's good to hear. I ride in comfort 95% of the time since the roads around me suck pretty bad. The wheel gap hasn't bothered me too much on this car so lowering hasn't been a must-do but I can't deny the car looks better that way. Decisions decisions

Tpeterson · 08-28-2017, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Get after it! If you have any questions I'll do my best to respond quickly

Are the Dinan front strut springs marked top and bottom. Is it possible to install them upside down?

Sail Boat · 08-29-2017, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tpeterson

Are the Dinan front strut springs marked top and bottom. Is it possible to install them upside down?

They aren't marked, but just install them so that the "DINAN" stamp is right side up.

Tpeterson · 08-29-2017, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

They aren't marked, but just install them so that the "DINAN" stamp is right side up.

Just as good as being marked. Thanks.

cxp213 · 09-01-2017, 10:06 PM

OP, thank you for the thorough write-up and including pictures.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NISFAN

Both my F30 and F22 have new suspension systems. I only did my M240i a couple of weeks ago. The trick is not to try 'rotate' the strut out of the fender whilst still in the hub. Instead leave one loose bolt in the top hat, with the hub flange expander tool in place, twist the damper to loosen it, then apply downwards pressure on the brake hub, pushing the LCA's down until the end of the damper is clear.

Aim the now free end of the damper into the free space behind the hub, remove the last top hat bolt and drop the damper down and out. Nowhere near your paintwork.

Actually I have to do it again soon (wrong springs supplied), so will take some pics.

That sounds like it'd work in theory. Very interested in seeing pics. When do you think you'll do them?

123Britt · 09-03-2017, 07:57 AM

I did a spring and strut change-out on my 335i and I came away with 2 thoughts:

1. My God the rears are were easy to do - why would I pay anyone to do this.

2. OMG the fronts were difficult because I did not have air tools, the spring compressor part scared the hell out of me and oh yes I chipped my fender paint getting the strut out ~ I will pay to have the fronts done.

However -- love the pics and DIY --- this type of post is what will make this site in the years to come.

GREAT WORK!

NISFAN · 09-03-2017, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123Britt

I did a spring and strut change-out on my 335i and I came away with 2 thoughts:

1. My God the rears are were easy to do - why would I pay anyone to do this.

2. OMG the fronts were difficult because I did not have air tools, the spring compressor part scared the hell out of me and oh yes I chipped my fender paint getting the strut out ~ I will pay to have the fronts done.

However -- love the pics and DIY --- this type of post is what will make this site in the years to come.

GREAT WORK!

Good for you for trying it yourself.

Which method did you use on the fronts? OP's?

123Britt · 09-03-2017, 12:20 PM

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65204

I was successful -- 1st time around is always a learning experience but like CV boots --- once is enough.

Tpeterson · 09-03-2017, 08:19 PM

When I get my Dinan springs I'm going to use Nisfan's method. And I've ordered several new tools, because having the correct tools is the key.

Sail Boat · 09-05-2017, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tpeterson

When I get my Dinan springs I'm going to use Nisfan's method. And I've ordered several new tools, because having the correct tools is the key.

Let us know how it goes! Post any questions you have during the install, I'll try to respond ASAP.

Tpeterson · 09-05-2017, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Let us know how it goes! Post any questions you have during the install, I'll try to respond ASAP.

Going to try and do it this weekend.

jmwilson125 · 09-05-2017, 01:20 PM

Just finished mine up last night. There is a big difference in signed in the rear, as far as the car squatting less under heavy acceleration.

Feels pretty good in every other aspect as well. Definitely what the car needed. I didn't even have a chance to see how it looked because I finished after dark and took the company car to work today.

cxp213 · 09-22-2017, 01:54 PM

So, are people not taking the LCA off and going with what NISFAN's posted for doing the fronts?

jmwilson125 · 09-25-2017, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cxp213

So, are people not taking the LCA off and going with what NISFAN's posted for doing the fronts?

I followed ops post exactly and it was easy. It is just one bolt to remove that side of the lca.

cxp213 · 09-25-2017, 10:55 AM

How does the rear leveling sensor pop out? Is there some special way?

I tried yanking at the thing and could not get the ball to pop out of its socket. I pulled until the black part (held by finger in below image) was bending/flexing and still nothing. I gave up for fear of breaking the part.

jmwilson125 · 09-25-2017, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cxp213

How does the rear leveling sensor pop out? Is there some special way?

I tried yanking at the thing and could not get the ball to pop out of its socket. I pulled until the black part (held by finger in below image) was bending/flexing and still nothing. I gave up for fear of breaking the part.

Try rotating it out. I had the same issue

Sail Boat · 09-28-2017, 10:30 AM

I dabbed the ball joint in some vaseline, rotated it around a bit to spread, then pulled it apart. The vaseline made reassembly easy.

jmwilson125 · 09-28-2017, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

I dabbed the ball joint in some vaseline, rotated it around a bit to spread, then pulled it apart. The vaseline made reassembly easy.

For reassembly I used channel lock plyers and very gently squeezed

Bombermon3 · 10-01-2017, 05:25 PM

I would raise the hub assembly to about where it sits when the wheel is touching the ground. Then tighten the bolts.. for less strain on the rubber

Taunto · 10-04-2017, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Off the top of my head...

Rear Strut bolt 70ft/lb
Rear Knuckle Bolt 120 ft/lb

Top Hat Nut 45 ft/lb (hand torque gauge works just fine)
Top Hat bolts 25 ft/lb
Endlink nut 35 ft/lb (hand torque gauge works just fine)
Pinch Bolt 35 ft/lb

I would just like to point out, that these Torque Specs are not correct.
Dont have the exact toque specs off my head to be honest..But i do know that the Bolt for the Front swivel bearing(steering knuckle) that pinches the lower portion of the Strut needs to be replaced. Along with the upper mount bolts for the Stut mount hat need to be replaced as well.

You did a great write up imo. I also like to add that anyone that has no experience with spring compressors in the past should most likely not being using one.... i know i may get hate for saying that..but i just dont have much hope in society these days lol. Spring compressors can be very dangerous if not used correctly.

Cycle Pilot · 12-20-2017, 03:02 AM

Quick question. Do you just loosen the LCA or do you actually remove it? One of the pictures shows it still attached once you take the strut out. Thanks for the great writeup! It's helped a ton.

Cycle Pilot · 12-20-2017, 05:03 PM

Hey, guys. I need some help. I've been able to install them and I followed the directions. I have clicking near the top of the strut mounts. I've closely looked at the springs and they are installed correctly. They look just like the photos that the OP posted. Has anybody else had this issue? I'm at a loss.

09-03-2017, 07:57 AM	#28
123Britt Captain 287 Rep 864 Posts Drives: 15 M235i AT Join Date: May 2008 Location: Madison, Alabama iTrader: (0)	Looks easy - but I struggle I did a spring and strut change-out on my 335i and I came away with 2 thoughts: 1. My God the rears are were easy to do - why would I pay anyone to do this. 2. OMG the fronts were difficult because I did not have air tools, the spring compressor part scared the hell out of me and oh yes I chipped my fender paint getting the strut out ~ I will pay to have the fronts done. However -- love the pics and DIY --- this type of post is what will make this site in the years to come. GREAT WORK!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-03-2017, 12:20 PM	#30
123Britt Captain 287 Rep 864 Posts Drives: 15 M235i AT Join Date: May 2008 Location: Madison, Alabama iTrader: (0)	This was the method to the madness http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65204 I was successful -- 1st time around is always a learning experience but like CV boots --- once is enough.
	Appreciate 1 Tpeterson156.50 Quote

09-03-2017, 08:19 PM	#31
Tpeterson Lieutenant 157 Rep 580 Posts Drives: 228i MSport/THP/MT/ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Eagan Mn iTrader: (0)	When I get my Dinan springs I'm going to use Nisfan's method. And I've ordered several new tools, because having the correct tools is the key.
	Appreciate 2 NISFAN3487.00 MLJR235116.50 Quote

09-05-2017, 01:20 PM	#34
jmwilson125 Major 340 Rep 1,184 Posts Drives: 2016 M235i Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Somerville, Ma iTrader: (0)	Just finished mine up last night. There is a big difference in signed in the rear, as far as the car squatting less under heavy acceleration. Feels pretty good in every other aspect as well. Definitely what the car needed. I didn't even have a chance to see how it looked because I finished after dark and took the company car to work today.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-22-2017, 01:54 PM	#35
cxp213 Lieutenant 313 Rep 525 Posts Drives: M235i Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: TX iTrader: (0)	So, are people not taking the LCA off and going with what NISFAN's posted for doing the fronts?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-25-2017, 10:55 AM	#37
cxp213 Lieutenant 313 Rep 525 Posts Drives: M235i Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: TX iTrader: (0)	How does the rear leveling sensor pop out? Is there some special way? I tried yanking at the thing and could not get the ball to pop out of its socket. I pulled until the black part (held by finger in below image) was bending/flexing and still nothing. I gave up for fear of breaking the part.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-28-2017, 10:30 AM	#39
Sail Boat Private First Class 192 Rep 178 Posts Drives: M235i Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (0)	I dabbed the ball joint in some vaseline, rotated it around a bit to spread, then pulled it apart. The vaseline made reassembly easy.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-01-2017, 05:25 PM	#41
Bombermon3 Private First Class 14 Rep 117 Posts Drives: M235i Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Orlando iTrader: (0)	I would raise the hub assembly to about where it sits when the wheel is touching the ground. Then tighten the bolts.. for less strain on the rubber
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-20-2017, 03:02 AM	#43
Cycle Pilot Second Lieutenant 158 Rep 281 Posts Drives: 2019 M2C Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Rocklin, CA iTrader: (2)	Quick question. Do you just loosen the LCA or do you actually remove it? One of the pictures shows it still attached once you take the strut out. Thanks for the great writeup! It's helped a ton.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-20-2017, 05:03 PM	#44
Cycle Pilot Second Lieutenant 158 Rep 281 Posts Drives: 2019 M2C Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Rocklin, CA iTrader: (2)	Hey, guys. I need some help. I've been able to install them and I followed the directions. I have clicking near the top of the strut mounts. I've closely looked at the springs and they are installed correctly. They look just like the photos that the OP posted. Has anybody else had this issue? I'm at a loss.
	Appreciate 0 Quote