6MT transmission & flywheel differences between M240i and 230i? |
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11-22-2021, 10:58 PM | #1 |
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6MT transmission & flywheel differences between M240i and 230i?
I've had a bad clutch in my 230i for a while and am seeking guidance on cross-compatibility between parts.
I've read that clutches and pressure plates are interchangeable between the B48 and B58. What about flywheels? I've also confirmed that the DMFW crank 8-bolt pattern is the same between the 230i and M240i. Both models share the same auto plate + ring gear size. The M240i has the same starter for both 8spd and 6MT, however the 230i has two versions of the starter, one for each transmission. Why? Is it possible that the tooth count or gear depth/position is different between the 230i 6MT and 8spd? Is there a difference in the depth of the 6MT input shaft to clutch plate between the two versions? If not then I might be in luck. I want to put a SMFW intended for a B58 onto my B48. Everything I've seen so far indicates it *should* fit. I haven't gotten concrete evidence to say it won't, other than aftermarket flywheel companies saying "we made this for the B58". Considering this is BMW's "modular" platform, I'd hope there's some amount of compatibility. I'd switch the starter out if I needed to. Any insights? I'd seriously appreciate some input from a tech that works on these, I'm dead set on getting this to work. |
11-23-2021, 01:28 PM | #2 |
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Go to www.realoem.com and enter the last 7 characters of your car's VIN. Hit enter and bookmark the page. Scroll down to clutch. Find the part #s for your car. Click on the part #s (they're links) to see what other cars use the same clutch parts.
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11-24-2021, 11:48 PM | #3 | |
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Regardless, I've finally gotten through with TTV. They're making a custom flywheel for me now intended for the B48 engine and OEM clutch. So any aftermarket clutch for the 228i DMFW should also fit. Will update once I have it in 6 weeks. |
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01-18-2022, 10:47 PM | #4 |
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Finally arrived! I just dropped off the parts and car with my mechanic.
Super excited to have a functional car again. The FX250 pressure plate bolts right up without issue. Clutch material fits perfectly on the flywheel with no conflicts. And the pressure plate appears to have decent preload on it. The TTV flywheel should weigh between 15.5 lbs and 17.5 lbs. That was the estimate before production, I unfortunately forgot to weigh it before dropping it off. The TTV flywheel is excellently machined, zero burrs and near perfect surface finish everywhere. I'm shocked by the superb quality given the low price and that it's solid billet steel. Will post a final update once the car is up and running. Hopefully without issue! |
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PeanuKeeyes365.50 MLJR235116.50 |
01-19-2022, 12:29 PM | #5 | |
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Do you mind sharing any sources info you have from TTV. I will def be looking to upgrade clutch & flywheel down the line and the products you got look good.
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01-19-2022, 05:10 PM | #6 |
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TTV racing (http://ttvracing.com/) is part of a larger machine shop operation. From my understanding they're much more popular amongst European / UK residents. I've seen great reviews from other car communities but not much buzz from BMW enthusiasts.
They will do custom jobs and one-off parts for nearly any application. Alan (Alan.Skinner@ttvracing.com) was a great help in getting this done, I believe he is the owner. This particular flywheel was the first one they've made specifically for the B48. He has stated that TTV is open to creating more and listing on their site if there is enough demand, so feel free to email! This flywheel cost me $540 shipped with a 6 week lead time, which is honestly amazing for a one-off part. I'm not sure if price will be lower for future orders, but I'd happily pay that much again especially considering TTV appears to be the only option for SMFW's for the B48. Regarding the clutch, Clutchmasters seems to have good reviews amongst BMW owners. This one is specifically the FX250: 03228-HD0F-D. They also have a non-sprung version for dual mass flywheel applications. A pamphlet that accompanied the clutch states that this one will hold 110% more HP than stock. That sounds dubious since I've read that the FX250 has near-stock like pedal feel, but maybe the clutch material is just that good. The flywheel facing side is a steel backed organic material, and the pressure plate side is a "fiber tough" pucked material. This is the most basic one they offer for the 228i, the FX200 and FX100 are not made in this size afaik. I will post a video to show idle rattle sound & crank spinup and spindown time once I have the car back. |
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01-21-2022, 07:21 PM | #7 |
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Alright! The car is up and running.
Pros: - Upshifts are lighting fast - Power surge from fast downshifts is significantly reduced - Driveline backlash feels non-existant, forward / rear clunking from snapping on or off throttle is gone - Idle gear chatter is very mild, much better than I expected. Still with original trans fluid. Cons: - RPM's jump a little higher than usual on startup, idle is still stable - Holy hell, gear chatter is LOUD between 2-3k rpm on power, and extremely loud from 4-3k when engine braking. - Clutch pedal is heavy. I will get used to that. The FX250 feels great, very manageable on the street. I just wish the pedal was lighter, I would have bought the FX200 if they made it for this application. That said, I have a feeling that the sprung hub is problematic. Idle chatter is fine, but under torque it's awful. I think that the hub springs are way too stiff or have significant preload. It feels like they aren't compressing at all under ~80% throttle. And as a result, the crankshaft to gearbox stack acts like a solid shaft. Absolutely zero dampening from the hub. I'm going to switch to that redline blend like many recommend, hopefully that helps with the gear chatter. I would be happy with the FX250 solid hub + DMFW, but their sprung version sucks. |
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01-27-2022, 03:52 PM | #8 |
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Welp, I'm sad.
Flywheel is great, chatter is a bit better now and certainly tolerable. Clutchmasters FX250 is not fully disengaging. Clutch lines bled, new trans fluid, etc. Still nothing. Cannot shift into 1st or 2nd without forcing it, or shifting into 3rd first. This only happens at a stop, when the car is motionless. Can also be remedied by increasing engine rpm to 2000, then it engages. Failing slave cylinder? |
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01-27-2022, 05:26 PM | #9 |
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Did you use a pressure bleeder on the system? Pedal pumping doesn't seem particularly effective at completely purging the air out the system in my experience on BMW clutches, as you can't get a steady flow through the pipes with the trapped air bubbles, without also moving the slave piston backwards and forwards.
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03-07-2022, 09:21 PM | #10 |
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Ah late reply but figured I should still respond.
The shop has used a pressure bleeder twice now. 3rd party confirmed it's fine hydraulics wise. Clutch is still not fully disengaging, even though the "bite" point is in the middle of the pedal travel. I've been dailying a different car so it's sat for a while while I try to find a good shop to look at it. |
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MLJR235116.50 |
02-22-2023, 01:39 PM | #11 | |
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Sounds like failing slave cylinder if everythign else checks out. I would recommend you get a new oem unit and remove the restriction plate they put inside where the the hard line goes attached..."CDV Delete mod" . I cant imagine you bent the clutch fork , if thats even possible? Keep us updated please. I'm about to drop a Spec 3+ Clutch + Alum SM flywheel shortly into my car. Wish me luck
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Last edited by MLJR235; 02-22-2023 at 01:48 PM.. |
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02-23-2023, 04:32 AM | #12 |
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So you're not getting enough travel on the clutch end of the fork. Is there more travel available from the fork? If not you're forked. If there is more travel available the solution is in the hydraulics. Is there more travel available in the slave cylinder? ...hosed...
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